Archive | June 2018

Amber EO/Resin Profile

AMBER Resin/EO Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ 2/17/16 & 18

 

Synopsis: Amber oil fossilized resin to use in perfumery, fragrant rich
and a detailed odor with growth description and chemistry.

Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Amber Resin/Oil Fossilized. This is probably Pinus succinifera, L, Family of Family Pinaceae.

            “THE chemical composition of succinite (Baltic amber), its botanical origin, and methods of distinguishing it from other fossil resins, are long standing questions, the third of which has been largely solved in recent years by infrared spectrometry. In his survey, Langenheim emphasizes the botanical origin and the strong hold which Conwentz’s postulated amber source Pinus succinifera has had over subsequent workers.” —https://www.nature.com/articles/239527a0  and Langenheim, Plant Resins.

 Other Common Name/Naming Information ~ The name Oleum succini is a name that simply means ‘oil amber’ and is a name given by the Pharmacopeia and not a true Latin binomial.  It can be considered a ‘common name’ that you would recognize in old books.

 Family ~ Pinaceae

 Countries of Origins ~ Amber Resin is native to Europe, Himalayas, China and Siberia naturalized worldwide.
The  so-called Amber Resins being sold in many stores are not resins at all although there may be some resin, oleoresins, or fractions of resins in them. (Labdanum is an oleoresin, for instance.) No manufacturer of these very smelly items will give out their recipe or ingredient list. They truly are highly guarded secrets. They probably are all fragrant amber resins because they contain at least some synthetics of one kind or another.

There is an amber oil  (from Amber resin) that is destructively distilled from Baltic amber (fossilized tree resin) – and very hard to one that is real. Destructive distillation yields a product from a 50,000-year-old piece of fossilized pine resin. True Amber oil is from a fossilized resin to use in perfumery, fragrant rich and a detailed odor with growth description and chemistry.

 Eden Botanicals Harvest Location ~ Fossilized Amber Oil is dry distilled and refined from Amber originating in the Himalaya Mountains near China. Mined not cultivated.

Endangered or Not ~ Not at this time

 General description of Plant habitat and growth ~ The origin of amber (amber resin) is somewhat uncertain; it is believed to be a fossil resin, produced by the hardening of the resinous exudates of largely extinct trees of the Coniferae family. (King’s American Dispensatory, 1898, by Harvey Wickes Felter, M.D., and John Uri Lloyd, Phr. M., Ph. D.) EB Amber oil is produced from fossilized tree resin from 35-million-year old Himalayan fossilized tree resin.

         Our product (Eden Botanicals) is mined and not cultivated.

 

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields ~ This is a fossilized tree resin from trees millions of years old produced by dry distillation where the amber resin is processed over high heat until an oily substance is obtained.

Yield: I have been unable to find a documented yield for Amber oil from resin.

Organoleptic Characteristics  

  Color: dark brown to red
  Clarity: opaque
  Viscosity: viscous
  Taste: bitter
  Intensity of Odor:

1-10 with  1= lowest

2-3

Bergamot & Amber =2; Rose Geranium = 4; Tea Tree= 6

 

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment: Smoky, resinous, leathery, woody-dry with a hint of green and low intensity but with great tenacity.

GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties and Uses ~ Calming and thought by many to be healing.

This is a very specialized product that as a resin has been used medicinally but of the dry distillation the oily scent product is mainly used by inhalation for calming and uplifting and in perfumery. The resin and oil are used for emotional healing and in perfumery.

Jeanne Rose Uses ~ I have used the Amber oil as a general fixative in perfumery and as a low intensity base note in perfume. It lends a sweet quality to men’s cologne and works very well with smoky notes like Labdanum in Chypre perfumes.

I do not do an inhalation with the oil and prefer to burn a bit of the resin over charcoal as an incense. I do this outside and watch the smoke curl into the sky as a ritual act – to feed the gods. Using rough stone of the Baltic Amber, it burns with a resinous and conifer ‘pine-like’ scent.

            Prayer or paternoster beads made from Amber have a long history.Amber Rosary beads with handmade linen thread – personalized

 

Application/ Skincare ~ I do not see the need to use this lovely product in any skin care formula although it could add something to a skin care odor if you use less than 5% in the scent blend and the scent blend is no more than 1.5% of the total. This becomes a most tiny portion of the total.

Diffuse/Diffusion ~ Do not diffuse

Emotional/Energetic Uses ~ Amber is alive, it is electric. The addition of this oil in a fragrant perfume blend will add an emotional component that is soothing but also uplifting. This is an ancient scent and could be used in meditation. Use only a tiny drop of the diluted Amber on a piece of cotton or cotton swab. Inhale lightly and meditate or do your yoga. Think of your ancient self.

Resin itself exudes from a plant to heal the wound and thus you can say that the energetic use of Amber to ‘heal that which is broken’.

 

Key Use ~ Perfumery

 PERFUMERY

BLENDING with formula – True Amber oil is a pleasant addition to any high-end perfumery project especially as a bridge note or in the base note but not accord. Amber oil is soluble in alcohol. See perfume formula below.

Blends Best with ~ Angelica, Balsam of Peru, Cedarwood (Cedrus spp.), Champaca, Cinnamon bark, Cacao, Balsam fir, Rose Geranium, Jasmine, Labdanum, Liquidamber Styrax, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood of any kind, Tobacco, Tuberose, Vanilla, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang.

 

HYDROSOL: None known

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.
Amber bracelets, Amber oil, Amber succinite from China

 

Historical Uses: Amber has been appreciated for its color and beauty in medicine and jewelry since Neolithic times (10,000 BC). The origin of amber is somewhat uncertain; it is believed to be a fossil resin, produced by the hardening of the resinous exudates of largely extinct trees of the Coniferae family.  The excellent author, Jean Langenheim in her fantastic book, Plant Resins, has much to say on this resin as it has been known and through a lengthy geologic time. Sources of Amber include the Dominican Republic in the Newe Worlde and the “Baltic area of the Olde Worlde. It exists all over the world in many countries, although the Baltic amber constitutes the largest and most widespread deposition of amber in the world1.”.

             “It is not strictly true that there are no pure amber oils. There is an amber oil that is destructively distilled from Baltic amber (fossilized tree resin) – although it is rare and hard to get – and very hard to find a real one that was distilled properly. It is not an essential oil (in my book) and so I will still maintain that there is no true amber essential oil. How can you distill an essential oil from a 50,000-year-old piece of fossilized pine resin? Destructive distillation may yield oil but not an essential oil as we are used to using the term.” — Will in 2010.

          

  Interesting Information: The Amber that is sold as EO is a unique substance that is mined and dry-distilled.

Physiochemical Properties

Chemical Components ~ The oil is a Complex one consisting of 41% essential oil components and 59% artifacts from the distillation process and the extreme age of the original fossilized resin.
Solubility –
Soluble in alcohol and recommended to use at 5% or 5 parts Amber oil to 95 parts of 95% neutral grain or grape spirits.
Solubility in water: insoluble
Soluble in alcohol and fixed oils.
Specific Gravity: 1.011 +/-0.002
Refractive Index: 1.5066 +/- 0.001
Comparison of Main Components ~
Cadalene, Calamenene-cis, Calamenene-trans, Calacorene, Calamenene-5-hydroxy-cis

 

Abstract/Scientific Data: A Brief Exposition of the Science of Mechanical Electricity: Or Electricity Proper; Subsidiary to the Course of Chemical Instruction in the University of Pennsylvania … by Robert Hare, J.G. Auner. 1840

Contradictions: There are many fragrant products called ‘amber’. Most are made from a combination of EO that include Benzoin or Styrax and any number of other scents. Read your label carefully. If it says ‘fragrant oil’ or ‘fragrance’ you can be sure the product is a synthetic version of what you truly want. It is best that you not use these products.

Eden Botanical amber is the dry distillation of the mineralized amber and is safe to use.

Safety Precautions: Do not ingest, do not inhale the vapor. Frequent contact may cause sensitization.

Patch Test:  If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

Do not ingest EO.

References:
1.Langenheim, Jean H. PLANT RESINS, Chemistry, Evolution, Ecology, Ethnobotany. Timber Press. 2003
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Rose, Jeanne.  375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.  Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne.  The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations.  North Atlantic Books. 2000:
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose .2015 edition. San Francisco, California

 

 DISCLAIMER:  This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor.  The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

 

 

Amber ~ March-2014

Amber at the end of a life,
Is akin to a stubborn wife.
One day she’s nice
The next she’s rife
With the specter of an angry life.

Labdanum/Cistus Resin_EO_Hydrosol

Synopsis ~ Labdanum and Cistus are not the same, but they come from the same plant and both have important use in perfumery – both with a luscious fragrant rich scent. This profile provides a detailed description with growth, description, chemistry, odor and uses.

LABDANUM/Cistus Resin & EO/Hydrosol Profile
By Jeanne Rose ~ July 2018

Cistus ladanifer – the plant that produces Cistus oil and Labdanum resin

 

INTRODUCTION: Labdanum and Cistus. This plain plant with its wondrous resin has been one of my favorites since I first learned of it back in 1969. I knew of Cistus as a plant growing in the San Francisco Arboretum but here in San Francisco it has very little odor as it doesn’t get hot enough. One day, some time ago, in June when it was clear, sunny and very hot I rubbed the leaves and they were sticky and fragrant. That is when I began to study it in my antiquarian herbals, one of which I had acquired back in 1970 (Dioscorides). How can anyone ignore a plant that was once harvested from the wool of goats?

 

COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL: CISTUS and LABDANUM are two products of the  Cistus ladanifer (syn. ladaniferous) plant. Cistus  is the essential oil distilled from the leaves and twigs of the same plant that produces the resin called Labdanum that is scraped from the leaves. Other Cistus species that are also used for Cistus EO and Labdanum resin include Cistus creticus and the subspecies incanus).

Family: Cistaceae is a family of perennial shrubs, flowering plants, found on dry and rocky soil with about 20 species.

            Other Common Name/Naming Information: Cistus is from the Greek and simply means Rock rose because they frequent rocky-places, and this is a  common name that is given to several other species of plants as well. The common Greek name is simply ladan. Cistus ladanifer is also called the gum Rockrose and the resin also called Ladanum.

Naming misinformation: Some people misspell and misuse the word Laudanum for Labdanum. Laudanum (a ‘u’ not a ‘b’) is a tincture of opium containing approximately 10% powdered opium by weight (the equivalent of 1% morphine). Reddish-brown and extremely bitter. Labdanum (with a ‘b’ not a ‘u’) is the resin from the plant Cistus.

 

COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS: Portugal, Morocco, Spain and the Canary Islands.

            Eden Botanicals Harvest Location: Spain and my Cistus hydrosol is from Portugal.

 

ENDANGERED OR NOT: On the list of threatened plants.

 

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH: Cistus ladanifer is an evergreen shrub and grows quickly to a height of about 5 feet and 3+ feet wide. They are thermophilous plants, meaning heat-loving and which require open, sunny places. It likes dry granitic hills with sandy well-drained soil and can tolerate heat, drought and sea exposure. It flowers in June, and though the flowers have both male and female parts, it is self-incompatible as the pollen can germinate and obstruct the stigma. Some books suggest that it is self-fertile. The plant is bee-pollinated. The flowers are white or pink with a simple structure. Cistus species are used as food plants by the larvae of some butterfly species. The petals are papery and crumpled, most commonly pure white, with numerous bright yellow stamens in the center and there is also a form which has a dark purple or crimson blotch at the base of each petal. The leaves are elongated and covered with glandular trichomes that secrete a viscous gummy balsam that exudes when it is hot. Because of the content of pinene, the plant is quite flammable, possibly can self-ignite, and is responsible for some serious fires. Spain is a leading producer of Labdanum.

 

PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS:

There are four Labdanum products of the Cistus plant + one  Cistus steam-distillate from the leaves and twigs: the gum collected from the leaves and twigs during the hottest time of the year; the resinoid produced by treating the gum with hot alcohol and concentrating it; the EO collected from the steam-distillation of the crude gum; and the concrete and absolute of Labdanum which are extracted by volatile solvents.

            Labdanum resin is obtained by collecting and boiling the twigs in the spring and early summer, skimming off the resin as it comes to the surface. Labdanum Absolute is obtained by solvent extraction of the resin – and is very much different in scent and color and viscosity from steam distilled Cistus essential oil from the leaves. The changing climate conditions, such as chilly early springs with very high summer temperatures, is contributing to lower yields, has reduced chemical complexity and increased the costs for the growers/collectors. However, both Labdanum and Cistus extractions result in intense, powerful aromas, used in very low percentages.”     Yield: 0.1% – 0.2%

For Cistus essential oil, direct steam distillation of the young twigs and leaves produces the traditional quality essential oil of Spanish Cistus. The distillation yield is very low, only around 0.1% of the fresh plant.
Yield: Results are discussed from 0.1% to 0.3%.

 

ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS:

            Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment:

             Cistus EO has a peculiar, warm, fruity-floral scent, herbaceous and notes of moss, camphor, powder and leather-hay odor that is intense but less tenacious than Labdanum and is used with Lavender in spicy men’s products.

_____Labdanum has a rich, tenacious, but not intense odor of sweetness,  smoky-woody, leather, powder, earthy-moss, with back notes of honey-animalic, floral with fruity overtones. It is an odor loved by me, by many and extraordinarily useful in many types of perfume application. It recalls the odor of ambergris and is in fact used as a vegetable substitute for ambergris in a perfume base note or as a fixative. The odor is tenacious in a blend but not intense, it lends a subtle richness to any perfume you use it in.

 

GENERAL PROPERTIES

            Labdanum was historically known and used in herbal medicine for 1000s of years and is still used in the preparation of perfume. Cistus is considered antiviral, antibacterial, and anti-arthritic.

             Cistus essential oil distilled from the leaves and twigs is considered a wound healer and as with most essential oils it has antiviral and antibacterial properties. Inhale the oil for a possible boost to the immune system and to reduce colds and infections resulting from the flu.

Cistus EO in the Arctander book

Labdanum is the sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient.

Properties and Uses:

            Cistus  leaf tea is useful for children illness such as whooping cough and for adults for general all-over body inflammation.

Cistus tea is used as a treatment for Lyme Disease. The conclusion of the study, showed that to date, clinical work with wild harvested pure Sardinian Cistus tea and whole leaf Stevia is the least invasive yet most effective treatment for Lyme disease and many other modern chronic illnesses, caused by persistent and hidden infections. For more information read “Dr. Klinghardt Biological Lyme Protocol” at the Klinghardt Institute page. See the entire article at https://kiscience.com/sardinian-cistus-incanus/

 

Application/Skincare Uses: Cistus EO and tea has great application in skin care, particularly oily skin, acne skin and irritated skin. Use it in your lotions, other creams and clay masks using white clay. It is used for mature skin, wrinkles and the EO as an inhalant for coughs and bronchitis.

Cistus Anti-Wrinkle Lotion, a recipe by Jeanne Rose

            I like to purchase an 8-oz bottle of pre-made unscented lotion with organically grown ingredients and then add my own special additions. If the lotion is thick I will thin it with some Rosemary or Cistus hydrosol until it is the texture that I like. Then I add 5 drops of Cistus EO to an ounce of my thinned lotion. I add the drops and with a long narrow thin wooden spoon, I stir in the EO, stirring around and around, up and down, figure 8 round and round. This is a sing-song that I do until the EO and hydrosol is thoroughly incorporated into the lotion. I only make an ounce at a time as it is easy to do and keeps the balance of the lotion fresh to make something else with. I apply this Cistus Lotion alternately with the Elemi/Galbanum Lotion every evening before bed.
https://jeanne-blog.com/elemi-resin-herb-eo/

• • 

 

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN): Labdanum is used by inhalation and is considered to have a powerful ability to bring up past lives and past or buried memories. It is very helpful in ritual work.

 

Diffuse/Diffusion: Do not diffuse Labdanum as it is a sticky resin and even the steam-distilled product has the ability to gum up your diffusor. I suggest that you learn to use this substance in other ways and use the Labdanum and the Cistus essential oil in your perfumes.

 

HYDROSOL USES ~ Cistus hydrosol is available and just a wonderful product to use. It is bright and fresh and cleansing to the skin. I get mine from “Naturalness” in Portugal and it is available through them. This wonderful product is harvested using the stems and the leaves in the early morning until noon using pure gravity supplied water from a stream and steam-distillation. Use it as a spray after putting on make-up to set it, or on your clothes that have been crushed in a suitcase to freshen them or on the pillows before sleep. You can also carry it in your purse to  spray on utensils before you use them and on hair or hands to refresh them. I am particularly fond of Cistus hydrosol.

The distiller recommends it : Cistus hydrosol is a powerful but gentle astringent. It is used as a daily toner for extremely oily, acne-prone, or irritated skin. For dry skin, only use as a 20% solution with other hydrosols or distilled water.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

 

HERBAL USES ~ “The use of the Cistus incanus has a long history and can be traced back to the 4th century BC. In the Middle East, northern Africa and the European Mediterranean region the Cistus incanus was enjoyed as a wellness tea for breakfast and indeed right throughout the day as a drink for relaxing after a strenuous day. When guests arrived, it was common to offer a freshly boiled pot of the Cistus tea. “The knowledge of the benefits of this tea were passed on late into the middle Ages.”3

                  See above for reference to the use of Cistus leaf tea as a treatment for Lyme disease.

 

 

JEANNE ROSE’S TOMATO TALES

A Personal Story of Labdanum

            Labdanum resin/resinoid/absolute/EO is a favorite of mine and when I teach Perfumery classes I encourage the students to use my absolute that dates back to 1969. We make an old perfume called Chypre in the class. See formulas at the end and read my Natural Perfumery booklet.

Years ago, about 1970, I made a mixture of Labdanum resin that I had read in an old herbal that also used Benzoin and Storax with Civet, spike Lavender and spices. It was to be inhaled to ‘comforte the brain’. It looked interesting and certainly doable and whose brain does not need a certain amount of comforting. I found it  was like playing with mud and very messy. I wrote about this in my first book, Herbs & Things, and if you want to try it, there are two recipes on pages 153-154.

These raw resins can stick almost permanently to everything. If you make it …  “keep one mortar and pestle aside just for this type of recipe or for any recipe that calls for the heating of ‘beating’ of a resin. It was nearly impossible to roll the combination into a ball especially with the stinky civet, so I finally dipped my hands into the powdered Benzoin and Storax (sort of like dipping your hands into flour to roll out bread or cookie dough) and rolled the resin around. This gooey mess stuck very tenaciously to my hands and it took two days to wash it all off, but at least now I had a ball of resin. I then pierced the ball with a bodkin (big blunt needle with big eye) and hung it from a string.

It immediately oozed away from the string, plopped to the ground, and proceeded to ooze amoebically about the floor, peeling up paint as it went. It was then that I finally realized the exact nature of this pomander. It was and is ever-flowing and takes on the shape of whatever object it is on or in. I captured the now pancake-shaped resin, rolled more Storax into it and put in on the ledge above a window. Within a day it had migrated off the shelf and down the wall. It smelled deliciously but it left a trail of black resin (rather like the slime trail of a snail). Again, I captured it and this time rolled it up and stuck it in the freezer, to freeze. After thinking about it for some time I let it out of the freezer and put it immediately into a small black leather bag. We call it the Mental-Health Bag. The more you massage the bag, the more it smells,  the better you feel, and the more powerful and tranquilizing its effect on the brain.”1Herbs & Things.

And I still have this fragrant Bag of Mental Health creeping around after 47 years.

 

 Chemical Components: Comparison of Main Components: “The main components were α‐pinene (39%), viridiflorol (11.8%), ledol (3.3%) and bornyl acetate (3.1%). The occurrence of cyclosativene, γ‐cadinene, (E)‐β‐farnesene and β‐eudesmol in the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus is reported here for the first time. Then, in order to study the chemical variability of individual oils, 20 samples were examined. α‐Pinene (11.1–47.4%) was the most abundant component in 18 of the 20 samples, followed by trans‐pinocarveol (4.4–10.9%) and viridiflorol (4.7–10.7%). Two samples exhibited a different chemical composition, not as yet described, characterized by the predominance of viridiflorol (20–22.6%), ledol (6.4–6.7%) and trans‐pinocarveol (5.4–8.6%).” © 1997 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. — Composition of the Essential Oil of Cistus ladaniferus L. Cultivated in Corsica (France) by J. P. Mariotti , F. Tomi , J. Casanova , J. Costa , A. F. Bernardini , First published: 28 April 1999

 

 

Jeanne Rose collection of Cistus & Labdanum from 1972 to the present

 

HISTORY ~ The plant has been known since ancient times and has been described by Dioscorides, Herodotus and Pliny. Dioscorides says, “Now, that which we call Ladanum, is made of this plant. For the Hee goats, & shee goates, feeding on the leaues hereof, doe manifestly beare away the fatnesse of them on their beards and on their thighs, because it is of a viscous nature, which taken off thence they straine, & hauing fashioned them into little balls, lay them vp in store.”4

In ancient times, labdanum gum from Cistus creticus, a close relative of the species Cistus ladanifer – the only one used today – was collected in Crete in two ways: “Pliny says that the gum was  harvested by combing the coats of goats that grazed in the cistus-covered hillsides; and later it was collected by thrashing the branches of the cistus plants with a leather strap and then scraping that strap with a knife. Cistus’ glutinous properties made these forms of harvesting possible. Today, most cistus production takes place in Spain, where the leafy branches are collected using a sickle before being processed.”2  But this may be where its history of being ‘leather scented’ comes from.

“In ancient Egypt, the false goat-hair beards of the pharaohs were impregnated with labdanum to surround these men with an impressive aura of distinction. The Cypriotes mixed Labdanum with Styrax and Calamus oil, thereby creating an early masterpiece of perfumery. The Crusaders, when they conquered the island, became so enthusiastic about the fragrance that they brought the recipe to the rest of Europe. It was known as the ‘Chypre’-theme, it is still employed in modern perfumery.”

Cistus creticus, has a subspecies, C. incanus , and is thought to be the ‘myrrh’ of Genesis. The resin of both are obtained by boiling twigs and skimming the resin from the surface of the water. —Mabberly.

 

NATURAL PERFUMERY

Labdanum is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient. Labdanum is a powerful fixative in perfumery and is valued as a substitute to replace ambergris.

            Modern uses –Labdanum is produced today mainly for the perfume industry. The raw resin is usually extracted by boiling the leaves and twigs. An absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation.

The raw gum is a dark brown, fragrant mass containing up to 20% or more of water. It is plastic but not pourable and becomes brittle with age. The absolute is dark amber-green and very thick at room temperature. The fragrance more refined than the raw resin. The odor is very rich, complex and tenacious. Labdanum is much valued in perfumery because of its resemblance to ambergris.

In order to distinguish between Labdanum Absolute (which is usually the absolute from concrete extract of the plant material) and Labdanum Gum Absolute, the suppliers have resorted to using various odd names for their products. These products should have at least one thing in common: alcohol solubility. Labdanum Resin Absolute is a fairly logical designation for the alcoholic extract of crude Labdanum gum. In other words, it is an alcohol resinoid of Labdanum, prepared in a one-step hot or cold extraction. This product is also the cheapest of all the available alcohol soluble and generally applicable Labdanum extracts. Blends well with citrus oils.

To use the thick gum or the absolute in perfumery, it is most useful to dilute it 50•50 by volume with 95% neutral spirits (I prefer 95% neutral grape spirits). It will slowly dissolve in the alcohol, especially if kept warm or over a warm water bath. Always watch what you are doing and do not leave or abandon any warming resin in alcohol — that will surely be the time that something negative will happen.

 

            Blends Best with: Labdanum – abs … The concrete is alcohol extracted to obtain the absolute. It is semi-solid soft and sticky green colored substance. It needs to be diluted in (grape spirits) alcohol to be used. The scent is balsam, herbal and spicy resin, warm and rich. Works well with citrus, Lavender bases, green and conifer scents.  There are many types of absolute: from concrete, from resinoids. Labdanum 50•50  is Labdanum diluted 50% with neutral spirits. Various types of essential oil are produced by the steam-distillation of the leaves, twig and are usually called Cistus EO.

 

BLENDING

Galbanum & Labdanum/Cistus Base Accord

  1. Dilute each of your Galbanum and Labdanum 50•50 with neutral grape spirits.
  2. Let the above age and meld for a week.
  3. Take 12 drops of Galbanum (50•50) and 12 drops of (50•50) Labdanum (and Cistus if you wish) and mix together. Age it for 1-week. Smell and experience.
  4. After it ages, you can add equal amount of grape spirits to make a 25% pure scent base. Give it a name that you will remember.

 

A CHYPRE PERFUME

A Simple Chypre Perfume is made as follows:

 5 drops of Bergamot + 5 drops White Grapefruit + 5 drops of Clary Sage with sclareol

1 drop of Oakmoss dissolved in several drops of alcohol

5 drops of Patchouli + 2 drops of Rose + 1 drop of Neroli

3 drops of Labdanum (pre-dilute in alcohol or purchase the Eden Botanicals Clear + 3 drops Atlas Cedarwood

The total equals 30 drops. Age this for at least 2 weeks (maybe more) and then add 90 drops of alcohol (95%) and age again for 3 weeks before you decide to do or not do anything else.

Equals 4 ml of finished scent at 25% perfume ingredients by volume.

 

INTERESTING INFORMATION: The Ladanesterion or lambadistrion  is the tool made of leather leads used to comb out the Labdanum from the Cistus plant.  It was described Pedanios Dioscorides in the 1st century AC. It was also described by the French botanist, Joseph Pitton de Tournefort, in his travel in Crete in 1700. The tool today has been replaced with plastic.

Abstract/Scientific Data: Anti-Dengue Virus Activity of the Oleoresin Labdanum of Cistus creticus.

During the epidemics of the mediaeval period, doctors in Byzantium and Italy developed the “Alipta muscata” as a preventive medicine against epidemics. When treating the “black death” doctors constantly used it for self-medication. The main ingredient of “Alipta muscata” was the oleoresin labdanum of Cistus creticus L. [1]. While the “black death” is mostly interpreted as Yersinia pestis, there is also an alternative interpretation as a viral hemorrhagic fever [2]. We tested several extracts and fractions of labdanum on their activity against the dengue virus (DENV-2 strain 00st-22A) in in vitro cultures on Vero cells (96-well-plates, 5 days). This haemorrhagic fever affects up to 500 million patients annually with no chemotherapeutic agent available and causes 20.000 deaths. Preliminary experiments with a labdanum full extract did not yield measurable results due to cytotoxic effects against Vero cells. In all following experiments, cell viability was constantly checked using the MTT-test. Fractionation of the dichloromethane raw-extract by liquid-liquid-extraction and column-chromatography on silica-gel (gradient elution with Hexane, EtOAc, CHCl3, MeOH) succeeded in separating the anti-viral activity of labdanum from its cytotoxic effect. In the most active fraction GS5 at 30 µg/ml, the dengue virus proliferation was 100% suppressed and cell viability over 90%. Structural elucidation of major constituents of GS5 is currently ongoing. Claims concerning the antiviral activity of above ground parts of C. creticus have been made previously, but these generally ascribe this activity to hot water soluble polyphenols and propose an unspecific tanning effect of the viral surface proteins as the mechanism of action [3]. We describe an antiviral activity of a dichloromethane extract of labdanum against a virulent hemorrhagic fever like dengue for the first time.

 — https://www.thieme-connect.com/products/ejournals/abstract/10.1055/s-0037-1608551

 

KEY USE: The Oil of Perfumery

 

REFERENCES:
1Rose, Jeanne. Herbs & Things. Only available from jeannerose.net with coil binding.
2http://www.albertvieille.com/en/products/86-labdanum-resinoid-spain.html
3http://labdanum-creta.blogspot.com/2010/04/cistus-incanus-power-of-rock-rose-menu.html
4 Greek Herbal of Dioscorides. Hafner Publishing Company. 1933 from the great work of first century A.D.
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Elizabeth, NJ. 1960
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume VI. Reprint 1972.
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose .2015 edition. San Francisco, California
http://www.andalucia.com/environment/wildflowers/the-gum-cistu
Langenheim, Jean H. Plant Resins. Timber Press. 2003
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Pliny. Plinie’s Natural History. My copy is dated 1601.
Poucher, William A. Perfumes and Cosmetics. Van Nostrand Company. 1923
Rose, Jeanne.  375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.  Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne.  The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations.  North Atlantic Books. 2000
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. JeanneRose.com. 2002

 

Sustainability: These items may not be sustainable in the amounts that are being used.
Endangered or not: Some of these plants are considered to be threatened and/or endangered due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping.
Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.
Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.
Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.
Patch Test:  If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64
DISCLAIMER:  This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor.  The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies  – Jeanne Rose©

 

Labdanum Limerick

Labdanum is a resin that oozes
Diluted it works on your bruises
Cistus the leaf
Is good on beef
And in perfumery it always amuses.

—JeanneRose2018

 

 

Odor Profile of Labdanum resinoid diluted 50•50 with 95% grape alcohol

 

 

 

Elemi Resin, ‘Herb’, & EO

Synopsis: Elemi, native to Philippines,  bark resin extraction and steam distillation, the EO is clear and pale yellow with a citrus scent, is therapeutic and used in perfumery  as a bridge note or fixative and in skin care (with Galbanum) to rejuvenate and soothe the complexion.  The resin has a history of medicinal uses.

 

ELEMI Resin & Essential Oil Profile & Uses

Jeanne Rose

Elemi EO and resin 2016 and 2018

Latin Binomial/Botanical      (Canarium luzonicum) (Blume) A.Gray and from Family Burseraceae. The tree bark produces a resin which is normally grouped as a balsam, it is more viscous than an oleoresin, very gooey, soft and malleable and very fragrant. When fresh it is like honey that has crystalized and will harden if left out.

            Family – Burseraceae and this is the same family that produces Frankincense and Myrrh. The family Burseraceae is composed of about 16-20 genera of shrubs and trees.

 

Naming ~ Elemi is known as “Pili” in the Philippines. Elemi is a common name for resinous items that are used as varnishes, printing inks and ointments. The word Elemi, itself in Arabic, the translation is similar to the saying “as above, so below”.

            History: “It was Magellan’s discovery of the Philippines in 1521 that led to Manila elemi – known for its medicinal properties and fragrance – being introduced to Europe and the Middle East. The product’s name dates from this period, from the Arabic El-lemi. Its use in “Chinese incense” for religious ceremonies was already being mentioned in China in the 7th century. Further, it was used as a fumigant to perfume homes. Small bags of elemi were also worn around the neck in that era. Starting in the 18th century, the West began regularly using elemi for its therapeutic properties, and it is mentioned in many texts, including as “the inventory of simple drugs that must always be kept on hand in the King’s hospital pharmacies.” 2

 

Countries of Origin:  Native to the Philippines. Manila Elemi, is a resin (from the bark) grouped in the balsam category, is more viscous than an oleoresin; it is semisolid and quite fragrant. The Philippine Elemi resin, (Canarium luzonicum) is also one of the best known and the source of the world’s largest supply.

 

General description of plant, habitat & growth: It grows in lowland rainforest, and primary forests at low and medium elevations. It is an evergreen tree about 30 meters in height, pollinated by insects and not self-fertile. The resin comes from both cultivated and wild trees.

Elemi oleo-Resin – 2018

 

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield: The tree bark of Canarium produces large quantities of the resin over a period of months. It is available both in the dry season as well as the wet and there is greater flow of resin during the wet season. A mature tree can produce up to five kilograms of Elemi a year. The gum is then shipped to warehouses using large palm fronds, placed in large wooden crates for export.

Elemi EO and CO2 is extracted from the bark resin using steam distillation or super critical carbon dioxide from  a tropical tree native to the Philippines. It is a  member of the Burseraceae plant family and is closely related to   Frankincense and Myrrh resin.

         Yield ~ 13-25% from the resin. Some sources mention yields as low as 3-6%.

 

Endangered or not: This particular species tree is considered to be threatened and/vulnerable due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping. Some species of Canarium are also considered to be invasive.

Sustainability: These items may not be sustainable in the amounts that are being used. My suggestion is to use only the actual resin as it was once meant to be, as incense, in small moderate amounts as needed and not use the essential oil at all.  

 

Organoleptic Characteristics of Resin and EO:

  Resin EO
Color: Pale yellow Pale yellow to colorless
Clarity: opaque clear
Viscosity: Very viscous Non-viscous
Taste: none Bitter, aromatic
Intensity of Odor: 1-10  •

1 is least intense

3 4-5

 

Odor Description: This oil has a clear to yellow hue and is non-viscous, tastes bitter, and is medium intense with a citrus resin scent. The odor of some Elemi EO is somewhat like the flower and leaf of Choisya in the spring when it is full of phellandrene. The odor of the principal oil constituent is alpha-phellandrene (more in spring of Choisya) and the odor  has been described as peppery-minty with a slightly citrusy note. Phellandrene can be absorbed through the skin. Thus, the hydrosol of this resin is excellent in the bath or as a body spray and the EO useful in the care of the skin. It is anti-inflammatory.

 

            Solubility: When you see Elemi discussed, it will often time be described as a gum resin, resin or an oleo-resin. Because each of these words have different meanings (please see https://jeanne-blog.com/resin-resinoids-gums-eo/ for definition); I conducted my own simple experiment in determining the solubility of Elemi in water (to see if it was a gum), in alcohol (determine how quickly it might dissolve) and in oil (to see if it could be described as an oleo-resin).  It was a revelation.

The solubility of Elemi is Soluble in 0.5 to 5 vol. of 90% alcohol; and usually soluble in 5-10 vol. of 80% alcohol.  It is about 30-50% soluble in oil and by my own experiment NOT soluble in water and thus it is an oleo-resin and not a gum-resin.

5/27/18 At 9:30 A.M.
Day 1. Using 15 ml. Of 95% Neutral Grape Spirits; Or A Combination of Sunflower/Jojoba Oil; Or Distilled Water.
Day 2. Dissolving in alcohol; slightly dissolved in oil; not dissolving in water.
Day 3. Dissolved in alcohol; 30-50% dissolved in oil; not dissolved in water. [not a gum]

 

Chemical Components: A study on the composition of Manila Elemi essential oil  from the distillation of Elemi resin  yielded 39 compounds, with the most abundant being phellandrene or limonene. Limonene  for some tests was at 56%, and in other tests was phellandrene  25-28% or higher. These components change depending on where and when the tree was harvested and distilled. Constituents are phellandrene and limonene with smaller amounts of elemol, elemicine, dipentene and terpineol.

The soft nature of Elemi results in part from the large quantity of liquid sesquiterpenes. It sometimes crystallizes from the triterpenes and becomes opaque and white.The optical rotation of this EO and the fresh resin changes if stored in sunlight and care should be taken to keep either in a dark container. For the resin a box will be sufficient and for large amounts of the oil, brown glass is best.

 

Interesting Facts: Interesting Information and History about Elemi: When Frankincense became too costly and scarce for mass consumption, Elemi quickly became a logical replacement, offering many of the same therapeutic benefits. In Arabic, a translation of Elemi is similar to the saying “as above, so below”. It was revered as an oil of the Gods and, like Frankincense, was used in meditation and prayer. While Frankincense is fruity and herbal when burned, Elemi delivers a fresh, citrus-spicy aroma and with more smoke.

     

PROPERTIES OF ELEMI RESIN AND ESSENTIAL OIL

Elemi resin is antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, antispasmodic, and rubefacient; is used in plasters to ease coughing. A strong antiseptic, Elemi protects against bacterial and viral infections, fungus and septic shock if used in medicine. Its resin is soft, odorous and has the texture of thick honey. It was formerly exported for the European pharmaceutical trade as Manila or Philippine gum Elemi for use as an ointment for healing wounds and as a plaster. The valuable resin, called ‘Pili’, or Manila elemi or ‘breabianca’, is used as an ingredient in the manufacture of plastics, printing inks and perfumes. It is also used by the Spaniards for ship repairs.

Raw nuts are a purgative.

 

Properties (by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application):

Manila elemi (the resin obtained from the tree), and the essential oil distilled from the resin, have a long history of medicinal use. They are considered to be antibacterial, antifungal, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic and rubefacient.

 

Physical Uses & How used (IG or AP):   

Application – AP:  The resin can be melted and used in an ointment for wounds . The resin is applied externally in salve to arthritic and rheumatic joints, boils, abscesses, furuncles, burns and sores. It is heated and applied to the chest as a poultice to stop severe coughing. The essential oil is an ingredient of a commercial preparation that is a natural anti-louse foaming gel that also contains Echinacea purpurea.

Ingestion – IG: A corn-sized drop of the resin is taken with water in the treatment of fevers and chills.

Inhalation – IN: Skilled practitioners have incorporated the use of Elemi essential oil by inhalation to address bronchial and chest congestion, due to its expectorant and stimulant properties.

 

Use the essential oils in moderation. Choose to use the herb tea or resin more often.

 

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN):

Inhalation – IN:    The resin burns smoky but with a very pleasant citrus scent. Inhaled it is thought to stimulate mental and psychic ability and  gives spiritual balance and calms the mind. The smoke is used by inhalation “to treat the thymus gland.3”

Elemi resin – AP for the 3rd chakra, the solar plexus, vibrates in yellow, the sound is E, and its scent is citrus-like and helps to balance your fire spirit.

Emotional Attributes: The smoke is cleansing/purifying, strengthening and for creativity, meditation and prayer. “On the emotional system elemi oil imparts a strengthening, balancing and centering action which makes it valuable in meditation. Use it to stimulate mental ability when you are suffering from stress, nervous exhaustion or simply feeling sluggish. Elemi essential oil can be used to help dispel loneliness and create a more positive outlook and encourage hopefulness.”5

  Elemi, the resin smells citrus
But always sweetly odiferous
Gooey, it’s true
And so sticky too
But one thing it’s not is cruciferous.—2018

 

USING ELEMI

 HERBAL USES ~ One species of Canarium seed, Canarium ovatum, is used in the traditional Chinese dessert called ‘mooncakes’, “The kernel (seed) is a major ingredient in this famous Chinese festive dessert”. However, kernels from some trees may be bitter, fibrous or have a turpentine odor.  Boiled Elemi pulp called pili resembles the sweet potato in texture, it is oily (about 12%) and is considered to have food value similar to the Avocado. Pulp oil can be used for cooking. Young shoots from the tree are used in salads, and the fruit pulp is eaten after it is boiled and seasoned.1”  The tree bark is commonly used for postpartum baths.

 

SKIN CARE –  ELEMI ~ Canarium luzonicum, wild resin is used by CO2 extraction and steam-distilled EO. Marguerite Maury believed that oils of Elemi with Galbanum would rejuvenate the complexion and eventually the body. It is used in products and perfumery. Try this combination of two resins oils in your skin-nurturing ritual; protect and nourish the skin with a 2% combination of these two ingredients in your night cream and daytime protection cream. In skincare, it has been used to rejuvenate and heal wounds topically, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It is widely used as a fixative in fragrances, soaps and cosmetics.

 

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Elemi is an oleo-resin that is very soft and ‘gummy’ and thus has the ability to clog up a diffuser. Suggest that you try something else for that lovely citrus scent, like a combination of Lemon-Grapefruit-Orange CP (cold-pressed) in your diffuser. Use Elemi, the resin, burned on charcoal to clear the spirit of your home.

I always use charcoal, to burn resin, as that is the holy incense. I do it outside. And see the smoke curl into the air, and smell what is left in the air. It is a holy thing. Resin is burned because it is fragrant and the “food of the gods” which they inhale. Burning incense is to feed the gods and it is a meditative process.

 

BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~

Blending Tips:  Elemi EO blends well with rose and other florals, adding a complex, spicy-citrus note. It contributes a unique freshness to Frankincense, Myrrh, Labdanum, Rosemary cineol, Lavender and Sage.

Perfumery: Elemi EO may be used as part of an excellent base note where its  complexity is at once earthy and citrusy.  During massage and aromatherapy, it can be inhaled to reduce stress-related conditions and bring a feeling of peace and wellbeing.

 

HYDROSOL ~ I have not as yet had the opportunity to try an Elemi leaf, bark or resin hydrosol.

 

Key Use: ‘Resin for Skin Rejuvenation’ — M. Maury

 

Science article: Elemi contains dipentene and elemicine and these are responsible for Elemi being a strong antiseptic and to protect wounds; as well as being a strong expectorant.

https://www.discoverlsp.com/news/chemical-focus.html

 

References:
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils . Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, Florida. 1972 reprint
https://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Canarium+luzonicum
1 http://www.worldagroforestry.org/treedb2/speciesprofile.php?Spid=425
http://www.scents-of-earth.com/elemi.html
2 http://www.albertvieille.com/en/products/55-elemi-essential-oil-philippines.html
5  https://www.quinessence.com/blog/elemi-essential-oil
4Langenheim, Plant Resins
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. /books.html
3Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book Applications & Inhalations. /books.html

 

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

            Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Patch Test:  If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64
DISCLAIMER:  This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor.  The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

 

 

Elemi ~ A corny Jeanne Rose Limerick
Elemi an oil that smells woody
It doesn’t like wearing a hoody
When I need a citrus smell
I pick one that’s well….
Sort of Elemi but Femi.

Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.
Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2010