Synopsis ~ The history, botany, cultivation, distillation of the flowers for essential oil, solubility and the uses of the oil.

YLANG-YLANG ESSENTIAL OIL PROFILE

YLANG-YLANG BOTANICAL & LATIN BINOMIAL ~   Cananga odorata    Hook. f. & Thomson. Ylang has other common names such as  Macassar-oil plant, or perfume tree. Ylang-Ylang is said to mean ‘flower of flowers’ in the Philippines. However, I was not able to confirm this. It could mean several other words as well. The Tagalog name is ilang-ilang.
            “The species and its genus have a long and rather confusing nomenclatural history that has yet to be resolved completely.”³ —Turner and Veldkamp

            Naming ~ There are two forms of the plant, often called Cananga odorata forma macrophylla which produces the oil called Cananga and the more well-known Cananga odorata forma genuina which is the oil we will be discussing. They are considered different trees with different plant descriptions, forma macrophylla from Java and other islands while forma genuina is best when from Madagascar.   
       I have been fortunate to have seen and smelled both types although at the time (1990) I was not aware of the difference in the plants.

         Family – Annonaceae

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COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN ~ Native to India, Indonesia, and the Philippines, and grows well in the Comoros, Islands of Madagascar, Réunion, as well as Haiti and Zanzibar. The Fairchild Tropical Gardens in Coral Gables, Florida have trees as does the Palm Beach Garden Club (I believe that was the name of the place where I spoke about 20 years ago).

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT, HABITAT & GROWTH ~ Tall tropical tree growing over 60 feet high with large drooping yellow flowers, up to six inches wide. The flowers first appear green and are without fragrance and covered in white hairs, then, roughly twenty days later, change to white then to yellow and become very fragrant.

            “In this country, there are also large trees which at certain times produce very beautiful fragrant flowers. One of these is the Cananga-tree, which is rather high, beautiful of the trunk (which sometimes may be a fathom around), and greyish of bark. The leaves are in rows on long twigs arranged against each other, about as long as wide, similar to a peach leaf, acute, and full of ribs. The blossom, or flowers, show themselves here and there between the leaves, in bunches, well similar to a somewhat yellow or orange ribbon, which hangs down, consisting of six long narrow weak leaflets, about a little finger long, and as wide.
Her true color at first is pale yellow, having on top as a small peppercorn, from which the fruit comes. They are very strong in scent, which they spread along the whole road where this tree stands, especially towards the night; yet their color is the most pleasant. Most of the flowers fall without producing a fruit (a few excepted) and were collected, for nosegays for the young damsels, to carry them in their hair. The native dries it, too, to smoke it under his tobacco, or to eat them with betel nut, putting a leaflet with the betel quid. They also serve to decorate with them the vegetable-bows at the large festivals, and especially with an oil that has been extracted, which is very strong, fragrant, and useful against many ailments originating from frigidness.    The natives also use this oil below their betel nut, also they mix it together with their bobori . The wild does not differ much from the tame, of which we show a branch on No XLII.”³

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PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS ~

         The flowers are harvested fresh and hydro- or steam-distilled. In 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols, explicit instruction is given on how to distill Ylang-Ylang flowers. See p. 159.⁴
1) all parts of the still must be immaculate.
2) the flowers should be fully mature, not damaged, and harvested early in the morning.
3) flowers must be taken immediately to the distillery and distilled immediately.
4) the stills are direct-fired, and the water should be almost boiling when the flowers are added.
5) proceed smoothly, quickly, uniformly with supervised eyes-on distillation.
6) condensation must be efficient, and the fractions sharply cut off.
7) complete notes should be taken on all parts of the growing, harvesting and distillation including information on the distillation weather, water, equipment, wind and temperature during the distillation.

        “The flowers of the tree are steam-distilled.  “The first part of the distillation produced within the first 45 minutes produces the finest oil, known as “Extra” and the receiver is then removed, and another receiver put in its place. The “Extra” is used mainly in perfumery.  The same flowers  continue to be distilled for several more hours and in 2 ½  hours, another receiver when removed is called the 1^st fraction, as the distillation continues for several more hours and the receiver is removed and this is called the 2^nd fraction, distillation will continue for up to 10-14 hours and finally, the  end result is called the 3^rd fraction. This last fraction is often used for removing varnishes. This process can take up to fourteen hours.               Ylang-Ylang oil is also produced by solvent extraction with ether and this forms a concrète and absolute.^“4
                  On Madagascar sometimes when a steam-distillation is done for a ‘complete’  the entire distillation is done in 6-8 hours.

            Yield ~ 1.5-2%. A mature tree gives 9 kilograms of fresh flowers yielding 30 grams of oil per year.

           There is a study and work being conducted on capturing Ylang-Ylang scent by headspace technology. This is a process used to capture the odor compounds present in the air that surround an object. Once the scent is captured and analyzed, perfumers can try to recreate the scent using what they have available.

SUSTAINABILITY ~ Ylang-ylang seems to be sustainable at this point and several large commercial companies are working with planters and growers to maintain the healthy population of these tree flowers. They work to champion responsible sourcing and supporting the farming community.

CONTRAINDICATIONS ~ It may cause nausea and headache if overused.

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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS of some YLANG-YLANG OILS

Taste Description ~ There are now six described tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami (savory) and pungent (heat and spice).

ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ There is more descriptive odor information in the Blending portion of this blog post and odor snapshots at the end. I am particularly fond of the  Absolute of Ylang-Ylang and the Extra that I have from 1995, and 2005.  These two types of Ylang-ylang are so rich and floral, fruity with powder and honey back notes.

         The absolute and the extra have deep rich color and have a very satisfying and rich fatty, floral, and a fruity odor that has great tenacity in a scent blend. The complete and the fine organic are also enjoyable with very special uses in blending and perfumery. In a blend these top fractions have unusual power in the top note, and the fragrance fades out very slowly and elegantly in a long-lasting, floral-spicy and very sweet way that is truly reminiscent of the fragrance of the flower.

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SOLUBILITY

Ylang-Ylang is not soluble in 2 volumes of 95% alcohol. That means if you add 1-volume of Ylang-Ylang to 2-volumes of alcohol it will be milky and not clear. You have to add enough alcohol as a diluent so that it is not milky.         Years ago, I had a phone call from a student that the Ylang she was using was milky and not clear when she added alcohol as a diluent. I went to my Guenther books and read all about  Ylang and found that it is not soluble in certain amounts of alcohol. As an experiment in July of 2002, I decided to do some various dilutions for my own knowledge and experimentation. As follows:
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang Extra plus 2 volumes of 85% Pear EtOH — milky and creamy in color …
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang Extra plus 2 volumes of 95% Grain EtOH — milky and golden in color …
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang #3 plus 2 volumes of 85% Pear EtOH — milky and creamy in color …
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang #3 plus 2 volumes of 95% Grain EtOH  — milky and golden in color …

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           In September 2002, I mixed 20 drops of each of the four types of Ylang -Ylang with 10 or fewer drops of each of the alcohol and found that the color stayed golden in color and that the mixtures were clear.  

        18 hours later at 10 am on 9/7/02 – I looked at the mixtures and found that the Ylang-Ylang had settled out of the 85% EtOH and was still turbid in 95% grain EtOH. I mixed the two types of 85% EtOH and Ylang-Ylang together and watched the settling process.

            Then I read Guenther again and found that if your Ylang -Ylang gets milky in alcohol it only means that you added too little or too much alcohol — it is supposed to get milky and if it doesn’t get milky then you have an adulterated Ylang -Ylang. In other words, the more alcohol you add the milkier and cloudier it gets until up to 10 volumes of 90% EtOH and it will begin to clear. [thus, you need 10 times the high-proof alcohol as a diluent with Ylang-Ylang]

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            Here is more information from Guenther…

“Oils obtained by steam distillation in a large distillery on Madagascar are of good quality. The relatively high specific gravity and ester number of the “3^rd” fraction prove that distillation was not “pushed” too far. Entire distillation of Ylang-Ylang lasted 12  hours….”¹                                    —Guenther, The Essential Oils, vol. 5, pages 297 specifically and pages 276-316.

This was a great experiment.

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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Ylang-Ylang oil is very complex with many constituents including, Linaloöl, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Benzoate, B-Caryophyllene, Benzyl Acetate, Methyl Benzoate, Methyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Cresol and Terpenes such as pinene and cadinene. “The percentages are 33-38% sesquiterpenes 52-64% alcohols and esters, and 3% phenols, terpenes, aldehydes, and ketones”.⁴

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HISTORICAL USES ~ Perfumery and as an aphrodisiac and anti-depressant.           
Ylang-Ylang or Cananga oil is used as hairdressing and constituent of perfumery including Chanel No. 5 and others. It is often mixed with pimento oil (aka Allspice oil or Pimenta dioica). Macassar oil is often made using coconut oil or palm oil or that of Schleichera oleosa (called Kusum or Malay Lac tree), combined with Ylang-ylang oil that is obtained by processing the flowers of the Ylang-ylang tree, (Cananga odorata) and other fragrant oils.

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           An old fun word is an antimacassar. The Macassar oil would transfer from the man’s hair to the back of his chair and the antimacassar was developed, that is, a small cloth like a doily or tatted fabric placed over the backs or arms of chairs, or the head or cushions of a sofa, to prevent soiling of the chair. The name also refers to the cloth flap ‘collar’ on a sailor’s shirt or top, used to keep macassar oil off the uniform.

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Macassar Oil – Hair Dressing
2 oz of Macassar Oil (Schleichera oleosa) or Argan oil
up to 1-oz of Argan oil (Argan oil, Argania spinosa), or Coconut oil
2-4 Ylang flowers
up to 10 drops Ylang oil (Use fraction #1 or the Complete)
Macerate in a bain-marie (with very warm water underneath) the Macassar oil and the flowers, until the oil has taken up the scent of the flowers. This will take 1-3 hours in a warm room.
Strain and add the other oil and the essential oil.
Let it rest. Check the scent –  if subtle and sweet it is okay. If too strong, add a bit of Argan/Macassar/Coconut – whichever you prefer.
If the scent is not strong enough, next time use more flowers.
—Jeanne Rose 2012

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INTERESTING FACTS ~ The fruits of the Cananga odorata are not edible.  When the flowers are picked at night, they are the most fragrant and the resultant essential oil is known as the “Queen of Perfumes”.  It is not well-known, but Ylang-Ylang oil is used in confectionery, enhancing fruit flavors such as peach and apricot, for candy, icings and baked goods, as well as in soft drinks and chewing gum. 

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            OVER the years, I have written about Ylang-Ylang and compared the various fractions of the essential oil and have noted that they are becoming less intense and different both in scent and in color. I have experienced and photographed these changes. I cannot say why these changes have occurred but since writing The Aromatherapy Book in 1992, I wrote the following.  “Now we come to the de-evolution of Ylang Complete – once a rich and real whole scent that was distilled from the flowers and collected from the total distillation.” In the photograph below, you can see the color change from the rich color of 1995, to less color in 2000, to ever less color from 2005 to 2010. Again, I am assuming that the big perfume houses are getting the best, or possibly the distillers are distilling too long or maybe the 1^st fraction is removed, and the balance collected; but whatever is happening, it is not good!

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            And about Ylang-Ylang Extra: “It is amazing how Ylang-Ylang Extra has changed and de-evolved over the years with possibly the same reasons happening that growers and distillers are sending the highest quality Extra to Paris for high-end perfume or the weather is changing and messing with the flowers or the distillers are not being as discriminating as they once were to separate each fraction carefully. Look at the great diversity of color (also reflected in the scent) of Ylang-Ylang Extra from 1995 to 2005 to 2010.” This continues today.  You can learn  from this by reading the  Aromatherapy Studies Course – http:///aromatherapy.html

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YLANG-YLANG GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties (by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application) ~ If you use Ylang-Ylang by application, it is antiseptic with the “second” and “thirds” fractions being antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, and antiparasitic. If you use the oil by inhalation it is somewhat aphrodisiac, calming and acts as a nervine and a sedative, antidepressant, calmative, cardiotonic, and euphoric. 

Contra-Indications & Personal Note: In my own experience, most fractions of Ylang-Ylang are not cardiotonic but an accelerator of heart rhythm. Please be extra careful with this lovely perfumery oil. Do not use on children or the elderly.

YLANG-YLANG PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED ~

Application: Add a few drops in skincare products and use to soothe the skin, ease light pain or use in perfumery. Fraction  #1 has often been recommended to be added to a blend to treat scabies and mange, although I have never had the opportunity to try this.

Inhalation of Ylang-Ylang: RELAX! Ylang-Ylang is used externally for bath and body and inhaled to soothe anger, relieve, pain, for insomnia, a euphoric that serves as an aphrodisiac and to treat impotence.       
Use it with Lemon oil and Lavender oil to relax your blood pressure as studies have shown that this is a very effective formula. This mixture was found to be effective in lowering systolic blood pressure and sympathetic nerve system activity. The blend was 2•2•1 (Lemon/Lavender/Ylang complete) and you can read about it here.— http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157172

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Ingestion: Ylang-Ylang has been taken in the past for PMS, to regulate circulation, as a uterine tonic, aphrodisiac, and cardiotonic. However, I am not sure that the appropriate way to use these flowers is by the intake of the oil; the oil has devolved over the years (see Interesting Facts above) and from my own personal exploration and knowledge and my uses of over 45 years, the best way is simply by inhalation for relaxation and emotional soothing.

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Ylang-Ylang oil is distilled in four fractions, extra, first, second and third, extra and first fractions are used most often in perfume, second and third in soap fragrance.  “Extra and third are the most important in trade.   There is also a Ylang-Ylang absolute produced by solvent extraction.  Distillation is traditionally carried out in rather small stills to avoid damaging the flowers with the weight of a heavy charge. With unusual power in its top note, the fragrance fades out very slowly and most elegantly in a long-lasting, floral-spicy and very sweet note, truly reminiscent of the fragrance of the flower.” It is so good in perfumery and used in soothing skincare and by inhalation, in dilution, it eases depression and soothes anger.

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Ylang is so soothing and nice –
it makes up in scent with its price –
Add to perfume –
romance will boom –
And you may end up married with rice.
—JeanneRose2017

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EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USES (AP OR IN) ~
•Inhalation: Aphrodisiac, nervousness, anti-depressant, euphoric, relieves tension, stress, irritability, and anger, cardiotonic, sedative, PMS, physical exhaustion.
•Inhalation of Ylang #1 oil as an aphrodisiac and for insomnia, to sooth aggression and very useful in a man’s product for stress.
        Valerie Worwood suggests that Ylang-Ylang (fraction used unknown) be used to counteract anxiety, tension, stress and shyness among other things and then it can be used to assist self-confidence and warmth. She says the “Ylang-Ylang personality is intensely feminine”. — The Fragrant Mind, p. 398.

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ All fractions of Ylang oil can be used with other oils and used in the diffusor. It seems especially nice to mix with Lemon and true Lavender oil to soothe the atmosphere of a room.

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BLENDING and PERFUMERY ~  

https://jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-perfumery/

“The top note, the first impression of the scent as it is applied to the skin, is rather fleeting and ephemeral but richly sweet and powerful. The middle and bottom notes are most lasting, fading out slowly over the course of a day.” ⁵         
• All fractions of Ylang-Ylang blend well with an enormous variety of oils and resins and scents from all parts of plants, such as the seeds (Cardamom), roots (Vetivert), stems (Lavender), flowers (Jasmin), barks (Cedrus), and herbs such as Spearmint. It would do you well to know what fraction you have and try some blends before deciding on your favorite.
           Personally, because I have physical issues with my heart, I am unable to use the fractions of Ylang-Ylang called I, II, or III individually. They actually make me nauseous. So, I choose the absolute or extra in my perfumery of choice.

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EARTHY FLORAL ROSE PERFUME
Top Note -7 drops  of Bergamot, 2 drops of Rosewood,
4 drops of Rose Geranium
Bridge Note – 1 drop of Lime SD
Heart Note – 5 drops of Jasmine, 3 drops of Rose absolute,
3 drops  of Ylang Extra
Bridge Note – 2 drops of Sandalwood, 2 drops of Black Pepper
Base Note –  8 drops of Patchouli and 4 drops of Vetivert
Fixative Note – 1 drop of Musk Ambrette

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LECTURES & ARTICLES OF PERFUMERY

            The Pharmacy of Love was a favorite talk that I gave beginning 1992 and I spoke of the power of Ylang-Ylang and other lovely scents that can be used in perfumery and for love. “…These scents included Neroli which is an essential oil from the Bitter Orange flower, Petitgrain which is from the leaves of the Bitter Orange plus Ylang-Ylang extra, using the top grade perfume essential oil from the flowers of the tropical tree, and Jasmine flower and the Atlas Cedar from the wood of Cedrus atlantica that was used in a sacred incense to invoke the gods. These were used individually and together in various parts of the wedding ritual and vows.”²

            The entire article is here http:///articles/wedding_aromatic.html

            “The Wedding Ritual –  Essential oil worn by the bride will serve to enhance her aromatic beauty, envelop her in an aromatic aura fit for a princess, and calm her nerves! As she prepares for the exciting day, she relaxes with regular foot soaks and massages and the regular use of aromatherapy for body care. Five drops of Peppermint or Sage oil in a foot bath soothes and relieves tired feet. Ten drops of essential oil added to an ounce of unscented lotion can be used to tend the feet, or anywhere on the body. While Peppermint and Sage are good for the feet, floral oils such as Ylang-Ylang, Lavandula angustifolia, and Neroli are inhaled provide relief from jittery nerves and tension. Aromatic baths of 3-5 drops of these essential oils are swished into the tub just before stepping in to increase the efficacy of this stress-relieving time.”²

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HYDROSOL ~ I received the above two bottles of Ylang-Ylang hydrosol in October. They were distilled at the end of August from flowers harvested in the early a.m. on the island of Kauai. Distillation started before noon and lasted for 8 hours for the steam-distillation and 4 hours for the hydro-distillation. Wai’iti Botanicals values their company as a single origin botanical purveyor and started this plant from seed.

           Ylang-ylang hydrosol is quite nice as a spray on the face and body. With a wee bit (1%) of Spearmint, it will bring joy and peacefulness. Spray this combination on pillows and bed linens for sweet sleep. By itself it is a calming floral aroma; added to a toner it will help combination skin or oily skin. It can also be sprayed on the hair for a light aroma. Use it after you have shampooed and rinsed, as a spray mist, and then comb it through.             I have used Ylang hydrosol myself many times and have always loved this particular hydrosol. I have also seen it listed on several websites but since no information was given about how it was produced or where or when I have chosen not to purchase.   

I suggest that you too, not purchase a hydrosol unless certain key bits of information are given such as when it was produced, where it was produced, who produced it, and did they follow correct distillation and sterile procedures.

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HERBAL USES ~ If you have the opportunity to obtain fresh flowers, you can “put them in a vase at home, the fragrance can last up to a month, even until flowers themselves are totally dried and shriveled.”⁴  The flowers can also be infused in oil and this oil used either as a hairdressing or in massage. And of course, the flowers can be used to perfume your bath or in your hair as a decoration.

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KEY USE ~ Sexual tonic and in perfumery

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YLANG-YLANG TOMATO TALES -1

Gio Costanzo, Ylang, and Champagne – Gio is a really nice friend of mine who happens to have just become single again.  Geo is just learning about essential oils and became very intrigued with them when another friend of ours mentioned that they could act as ‘aphrodisiacs.’  “HOW?” was the first question asked?  “Well, you can use them to make things smell really fragrant like  you can put a drop or two of Eucalyptus in your sauna to make the place smell better; you could put a drop of Ylang-Ylang in your champagne and drink it with your girlfriend; you can add essential oils to the last rinse of your laundry to make your bedding smell really sweet,” was our collective response.
Several months later I found myself on a plane with him, flying to Texas for a football game, and asked about the aphrodisiac and if he had used it.
He had grabbed hold of the Ylang-Ylang in the champagne answer but hadn’t listened to the part about “a drop” and had added something like 1-drop to each glass poured from his very expensive bottle of champagne. He told me that he and his girlfriend had spent the evening together and had several glasses each of the bubbles but didn’t much like the taste and so went to bed where they promptly fell asleep. “I didn’t like it and It didn’t work very well as an aphrodisiac, but it did work to put us to sleep”.
            He also told me that I had forgotten the most important part of his story that the Ylang-ylang did not make then smell good. “I thought we were going to smell good but after drinking the champagne, we smelled so bad we couldn’t stand each other in the same bed. That was the worst part of it, and you can mention that.  Jeanne what we did was put a drop in every glass of champagne until we had used up all the Ylang. We hopped into bed, started getting hot sweats and then the pungent smell came over us. It was a horrid smell and we could not wash that smell away. We slept in different rooms that night because of the smell. There went that romantic night! Also bad for me on the plane the next day. That’s the way my first experience with Ylang went.”

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YLANG-YLANG TOMATO TALES -2

Ylang Dog use

          Many who have the books of Jeanne Rose, aromatherapist and author of many books concerning herbs and aromatherapy, know the story of  Sumo and Wolfie.  “Several books that I have written describe many natural remedies. The story of Sumo, my son Bryan Moore’s dog who was a full-grown Akita-Shepherd cross with the face of a puppy, is a lesson in natural health care.  He was run over by a car and dragged along the pavement on his right side for some distance.  The injury to his rear right leg was severe including severed ligaments and tendons in a 180-degree rotation around the hock joint and torn off skin and muscles.  Veterinarians recommended amputation.  I (Jeanne Rose) refused to allow this and treated the dog’s wounds with diluted flowering Tea Tree hydrosol (Melaleuca linariifolia) and diluted essential oils of fresh Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) and Lavender (Lavandula x intermedia var Grosso). Today there is only an almost unnoticeable scar the length of his leg and a slight limp in Sumo’s happy gait.  At the same time, I used Ylang-Ylang #1 (Cananga odorata) oil in a diffuser to treat my dog, Wolfie (the beautiful blue-eyed Siberian Husky), by inhalation. She was emotionally traumatized by the terrible incident.”⁵ She also would not go outside unless attended. Ylang-Ylang #1 essential oil was added to the diffuser and Wolfie would get up and lie down nearer to the diffuser at times during the day and then go back to her bed. When Sumo came home, she was much more at ease. Wolfie was also thrown by the same car and hit her rear hip that later in life developed a spindle cell tumor. However, both dogs lived past their 16^th birthday.”.

Warning -do not trap a dog near a diffuser without a way for it to move away. Some odors are just too strong for a dog’s sensitive sense of smell.

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Science article ~ Safety assessment of Ylang–Ylang (Cananga spp.) as a food ingredient
George A. Burdock, Ioana Carabin. From Food and Chemical Toxicology, vol. 46,  issue 2, February 2008, pg. 433-445.

Abstract. Ylang–Ylang oil is used in the food industry as a flavor ingredient. It is a complex chemical mixture in the form of essential oil extracted by water or water-and-steam distillation from the fresh flowers of Cananga odorata Hook. f. & Thomson. Ylang–Ylang oil has been reported to cause dermal sensitization reactions in animals and humans, but it is unclear what constituent(s) within the essential oil comprise the offending agent(s) and whether some Ylang–Ylang oils that have had certain constituent(s) removed are any less prone to cause such allergic reactions. There is no indication in the literature that food exposure to Ylang–Ylang oil has caused allergic reactions. One subchronic inhalation toxicity study, involving Ylang–Ylang oil as part of a larger fragrance raw materials mixture, gave no indication of causing adverse effects, but the relevance to risk assessment of oral food flavoring use exposures is likely minimal. No further toxicity data for Ylang–Ylang oil have been reported. Notwithstanding the foregoing, Ylang–Ylang oil has a long history of fragrance and food flavoring use, with no indication that its estimated consumption from food flavoring use (0.0001 mg/kg/day) has led to any adverse human health effects. These data indicate that at the current level of intake as a food ingredient, Ylang–Ylang oil does not pose a health risk to humans.

References:
¹Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume 5, pages 267-316.
² http:///articles/wedding_aromatic.html
³ A history of Cananga (Annonaceae). IM Turner, J.F. Veldkamp. Gard.Bull.Singapore, 2009- nparks.gov.sg
⁴ Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols
⁵ Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.

Alpharnd@aol.com. Nadim Shaath. www.alpharnd.com
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol
I.M. Turner and J.F. Veldkamp.A History of Cananga (Annonaceae). Gardens’ Bulletin Singapore 61 (1): 189-204. 2009
Mabberley, D.J. Mabberley’s Plant Book. 2008 3rd Edition with 2014 updates. Cambridge University Press
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols. /books.html
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.

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Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.

ODOR SNAPSHOTS

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Many thanks to the companies who have wholeheartedly supported aromatherapy education and this blog with samples, essential oils, and GC/MS. Especially to EdenBotanicals.com

Petitgrain — Petitgrain EO is an Essential  Oil and not a species; leaves and twigs from any citrus when distilled are called Petitgrain (small fruit) and depending on terroir the scent is different. Includes formulas and recipes.

PETITGRAIN EO &. HYDROSOL
By Jeanne Rose ~ 8-17-19

PETITGRAIN EO —  COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Petitgrain is the name of an essential oil and is not a plant species, it is the results of distilling the leaves and twigs of citrus and can be made from any citrus. It is particularly Petitgrain Bigarade from Citrus x aurantium, that is, the leaves and twigs of the bitter Orange. Normally, it is from Citrus x aurantium (L.) but you can also have Lemon Petitgrain, Combava petitgrain, Orange Petitgrain, Mandarin Petitgrain or any kind of petitgrain.

            Family: Rutaceae (the Rutaceae are a family, commonly known as the rue or citrus family, of flowering plants, usually placed in the order Sapindales. Species of the family generally have flowers that divide into four or five parts, usually with strong scents. They range in form and size from herbs to shrubs and large trees.)

            Petitgrain EO — Other Common Name/Naming Information ~ Originally, Petitgrain which means “small fruit” was distilled from the immature and small round green fruits of the bitter Orange and the leaves. Originally only that which was distilled in France from the true bitter Orange could be called Petitgrain but eventually when Paraguay began to produce up to 70% of the world’s supply, any citrus leaf and twig could be called petitgrain. Of course, if you distill the fruits then there will be no mature fruit to eat or preserve.  So eventually, the distillation was limited to the leaves and small branchlets, but the oil is still called Petitgrain.
            Blossoms of the true bitter (sour) orange tree, Citrus x aurantium Linnaeus, subsp. amara L., on being distilled yield Neroli bigarade oil. If, on the other hand, the leaves and petioles (leaf stalk) are distilled, oil and hydrosol of Petitgrain bigarade is obtained and if you cold-press the rind then it is called Bitter Orange oil.

            Petitgrain EO and hydrosol is thus produced from the Bitter Orange tree after the harvest of the flowers (for Neroli); leaves and stalks are freshly picked from July to October and freshly and immediately distilled for the best product. It should be emphasized that American producers wishing to produce Petitgrain oil and hydrosol be very careful as to the citrus variety they use, time of harvesting and the type of distillation.

 PETITGRAIN EO — GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ Citrus is grown in tropical and subtropical areas, including various southern areas in the southern USA. They are found in sunny, warm areas throughout the world.  The tree is a small evergreen tree, somewhat cold-hardy and tolerant of drought, but if it is Mandarin Petitgrain, then know that the fruit itself is very delicate and sensitive to the cold.  Citrus blooms in winter months and produces small green fruits in spring while fruits ripen in fall. It grows in soil with  a pH of 6 to 8.  They do not, however, grow well in soils with high salt content. Leaves are harvested late June to October for distillation.

PORTION OF THE PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS ~ Petitgrain is produced by steam distilling the leaves and small branches of certain citrus trees after the fruit is harvested.  The most important of the Petitgrain oils comes from the Bitter Orange tree. Paraguay is a big producer of Petitgrain from citrus trees gone wild since 1877.  Higher quality Petitgrain comes from France and Italy, sometimes Egypt and Morocco.
            True Petitgrain EO and hydrosol should originate exclusively from the true bitter Orange tree. These distillations show that the oil will have a relatively high laevorotation and the presence of leaves from sweet Orange trees will result in oils of lower laevorotation, or even dextrorotation. (See Orange blog post at jeanne-blog.com)

            The Petitgrain is distilled from the leaves and twiglets when the fruit is pea-sized.

The quality of Petitgrain depends on various factors:
1. The leaf material should originate exclusively from the bitter or sour Orange tree.
2. The leaf material should not contain any wooden branches, nor any small unripe fruit (despite the name and although it was the original Petitgrain).
3. The leaf material should be distilled rapidly and with direct steam that is generated in a separate boiler. The leaves must not be immersed in water, as this will cause hydrolysis of the linalyl acetate which is the most important constituent. Properly distilled the oil and hydrosol will have a high ester content.
4. The plants of Southern France bloom in May and June and these flowers used for Neroli production. While the leaves and petioles for Petitgrain are harvested from the pruning after the Neroli harvest which is from late June to October

            Yields ~ are 0.25-0.5%. 

PETITGRAIN COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~: Oil of Petitgrain was originally distilled in Paraguay and is now also distilled in Egypt, France, Italy, Morocco, USA.  However, in Paraguay the plant that is distilled is a hybrid of the sweet and the bitter Orange that has gone wild and thus the oil and hydrosol is considered to be of lower quality.  Main producing areas are the Mediterranean countries of Italy, Corsica, Sicily, etc. and California, Florida and South America, each of these countries produce citrus oils that are organoleptically identifiable.

Gathering Bitter Orange leaves in 1919. Pictures from 1919 Scientific American of the
 Gathering of the leaves of the bitter-orange. For Petitgrain Scent

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EDEN BOTANICALS HARVEST LOCATION ~ Egypt and Morocco

 ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ Not Currently

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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS

Petitgrain oils. See the different colors of the oil that are available.

ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Petitgrain has a strong, bitter-sweet, floral and somewhat woody odor, sometimes vegetative (not-pleasant), dry and a bit leathery. The woody smell is from the sesquiterpene alcohol, spathulenol.  Aldehydes contribute to the odorous principle, even though they are in small amounts.  Another important constituent is the pyrazines with their Galbanum-like green notes. It is important to mention that the trace components in Petitgrain leads to a good scent and especially in perfumery where they are important or when

 the scent needs to be reconstituted. Petitgrain bigarade is used in perfumes for its refreshing, sweet-floral notes and often as a substitute for Neroli.

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            Learn to Smell and Detect Odor: Limbic system is the seat of memory and learning. Smell from left nostril and then to right nostril. The right nostril (right brain-creative) is important in detecting and evaluating the intensity of odor, and this hints at a broad olfactory asymmetry and the left nostril (left brain or logical) is for smelling location or place.

            First Smell and 2^nd Smell: “Lurking in the olfactory epithelium, among the mucus-exuding cells, are cells that are part of the system that innervates the face (trigeminal nerve).  It is suspected that pungent and putrid molecules penetrate them, interact with their proteins, and stimulate them to fire.  Thus, there are two types of olfaction: first smell, the ordinary type for specific odors, and second smell for nonspecific pungency and putridity.”

            There is also left brain and right brain smell-ability. Left brain smells location (maybe via logical use of EMG waves) while right brain smells intensity. The closer you get – the more intense the odor.

[see the Circular Vocabulary of Odor© at the end for an analyses of Petitgrain sampled]

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CHEMISTRY COMPONENTS OF PETITGRAIN ~ 80% of the yield is made up of linalyl acetate and linaloöl in a proportion of 2:1.  The woody smell is from the sesquiterpene alcohol, spathulenol.  Aldehydes contribute to the odorous principle, even though they are in small amounts.  Another important constituent is the pyrazines with their Galbanum-like green notes. It is important to mention that the trace components in Petitgrain leads to a good scent and especially in perfumery where they are important. The best Petitgrain is distilled from Bitter Orange leaves with noted laevorotation of the molecule, that lovely sour smell that is so fragrant, and not from sweet Oranges where the oil will have a dextro- (sweet) rotation and thus a different odor.

            Physiochemical Properties: The quality of Petitgrain oil can be evaluated by its physicochemical properties. Here are the properties of genuine Petitgrain distilled in Southern France as outlined in Guenther’s work. …

            Comparison of Main Components: The high amount of ester in the form of linalyl acetate lends the fruity odor to the oil while various amounts of the other components lend the personality to each of the different types of Petitgrain. Chemical Components are 80% made up of linalyl acetate and linaloöl in a proportion of 2:1 and limonene, dipentene, citral and others.

            Solubility of Petitgrain Bigarade ~ Soluble in 2.8 to 4.5 volumes of 70% alcohol, rarely with opalescence, but often with some precipitation. — Guenther

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GENERAL PROPERTIES of PETITGRAIN

Antispasmodic, tonic and astringent

Properties and Uses of Petitgrain ~ Inhaled to ease the nervous system and soothe nerves that stimulate the muscles; used in skin care properties for excessive acne, to reduce excessive perspiration and in shampoo and soap for greasy hair and skin. It is a great toner to all body care products. Wonderful in woody or fougére perfumes.

            Can be used as part of an aphid insecticide. Natural essential oils such as coriander oil and petitgrain oil may be useful in the control of foxglove aphid (A. solani). After application of these oils mortality of the pest was significant and amounted to 81.20-99.47% and 89.80-99.50%, respectively (72 hours after treatment).

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            What does Jeanne Rose use this EO for?  I like to take a tablespoon of unscented cleanser or oil and add 1 drop of Petitgrain EO, especially the low-intensity Petitgrain oil, such as Bigerade and mix these and apply to my skin. Then I take a warm washcloth and touch it to my face to warm the skin, and then rinse, rinse, rinse with warm water. My skin feels clean and ready for the day.

            Application/ Skincare: A useful antiseptic, it kills bacteria on the skin and works well in cleansers. It can leave the skin feeling clean and reduces acne.

a Jeanne Rose Recipe for Aftershave Therapy for Men

• 4 drops of Lavender oil
• 4 drops of Bergamot
• 4 drops of Petitgrain
• 3 drops of Atlas Cedar oil
• Make your synergy and succuss.
• Dilute to your specifications or as follows, Add 90 drops carrier oil, lotion or alcohol to dilute to = 12% EO

Diffuse/Diffusion: Petitgrain can be diffused by itself or in any blend. It lends a tart citrus or green quality and the air feels clean. It soothes the nervous system, is antispasmodic and is inhaled for “nervous exhaustion or stress.” — 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, p. 127

Emotional/Energetic Use: Inhaled for nervous exhaustion, fatigue or stress. Inhale to wake-up and to be more positive.

PERFUMERY AND BLENDING ~ Petitgrain Blends Best with: Bergamot and all types of Citrus and other Petitgrain citrus, Clary Sage, Clove, Atlas Cedar, Lemon Eucalyptus, Frankincense, scented (Pelargonium) Geranium, jasmine. Juniper CO₂, Labdanum, Lavender, Oakmoss, Palmarosa, Patchouli, all types of Rose, Rosemary, Sage, and any floral, and Ylang Ylang.

BLENDING WITH A JEANNE ROSE FORMULA

Solid Tuberose Perfume Formula #2 – Jeanne Rose 2003
Another Formula is: 1/2 oz. Tuberose wax and 1/2 oz. Lavender infused Oil.  Melt in a 1 oz. jar in a water bath – slowly and carefully. When the wax is melted add the following scents: 15 drops Jasmine, 15 drops Ylang extra, 15 drops Vanilla, 15 drops Petitgrain Mandarin and 3 drops Vetivert. If you have it, you can also add 3-5 drops Tuberose to bring up the caramel scent. Stir gently, let it sit until cool and solid.

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HERBAL USES OF PETITGRAIN AND LEAVES OF CITRUS ~  You make an herbal infusion of the leaves of any citrus tree for a nice relaxing herbal bath and add a few drops of Petitgrain to enhance the scent. This is always a special treat.         

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Key Use: Inhale to soothe panic and use externally for clean skin; that is, inhaled for the nervous system  and use in your body-care products.

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JEANNE ROSE’S “TOMATO TALES” OF PETITGRAIN

~ ORANGE FLOWER AND PETITGRAIN DISTILLATION. At the end of March 2003, I had the opportunity to distill 5 pounds of pure Orange Flowers for Sweet Neroli Hydrosol obtained from organically grown sweet naval Orange, variety Atwood. The balance of the leaves and flowers was then sent to another distiller for the Orange Flower and Petitgrain hydrosol.
            The trees were grown in the foothills edging the great central valley of California near the town of Lindsay. The trees are grown organically, at 500 feet with a west exposure in full sun and the area is certified organic. The area is irrigated via the San Joaquin river. The soil is USDA Porterville cobbly clay. There is about 12 inches of rainfall per year. The harvest was on Wednesday 3/25/03 from about 15 trees. Harvest weather was overcast to full sun, about 75° F and 30% humidity.  It took 3 hours for each of two persons (6 total) to fill 13 five-gallon buckets with twigs and flowers. This was transported to San Francisco and arrived on Thursday. Each tree produced about 1 bucket (3.3 lbs./bucket) of easily available twigs with flowers.  This effectively gently pruned the tree of excess flowers and will leave it able to produce more and tastier Oranges.
            We started with 43 pounds of twiglets that had blossoms and buds attached. It took 3-man hours (1 hour for 3 persons) to pick off the flowers and to accumulate the 5 pounds of just-opened flowers.  The fragrance was sweet, intense, floral and fruity with some green back notes. The balance of the leaves and flowers (38 pounds) was sent to the larger stainless-steel unit, 1-hour north. The leaves were kept above the water and must not be immersed in water, as this will cause the hydrolysis of linalyl acetate. A 4-inch copper tube was added to the gooseneck. Two hours of distillation produced 12 gallons of hydrosol. pH began at 5, the scent being green and citrus and as the distillation continued, pH became more acid to 4.4, the scent becoming more rich, citrus and spicy. 3 ml of essential oil was produced from the 38 pounds of twigs and flowers.

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NOT ORGANIC AND IN THE SMOG ~ This  is only one distillation that I experienced with citrus flowers/or leaves. Another that I did was in southern California where I was invited to an abandoned Orange grove that was left in the middle of a nexus of freeways. The citrus tree leaves were covered with dust, dirt and smog. My students and I (we were 14 in all), cut branches and sat in a circle picking off the leaves and individually dusting and then washing each leaf. It took several hours to do this. I set up my still with a screen inside to lift the leaves up and off of the boiling water and we steam-distilled the freshly cleaned leaves. Petitgrain must be steam-distilled and not hydro-distilled to prevent the hydrolysis of the linalyl acetate which is the most important constituent. Properly distilled the oil and hydrosol will have a high ester content. The smell was spectacular but since the Orange grove was located in the middle of a freeway, I cautioned everyone to smell but not use the distillate.

HYDROSOL ~ In 2003, we distilled 38 lbs. of leaves and twigs of Petitgrain hydrosol. This was a wonderful hydrosol, very fragrant and sweet.  It was used in skin care products and simply as a mister.  Several misting products were produced using the hydrosol. Mixed 50/50 with Spearmint hydrosol produced a very refreshing and fragrant fruity, citrus mint hydrosol. Fabulous to use. If the organic citrus farmers of central California would collect and distill leaves and twigs of their sweet Orange crop, they would have a value-added product in the way of sweet Petitgrain hydrosol.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh

HISTORICAL USES ~ Petitgrain is used since the 1700s in the Perfumery industry. It lends a citrus woody note to perfumes.

HISTORY & INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ “Petitgrain from Citrus aurantium: Essential Oil of Paraguay” by Daniel Gade — EcoBot 33(1), 1979, pp. 63-71        

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CONTRAINDICATIONS: It is not like other citrus oils as it is steam-distilled and not cold-pressed and thus is not photosensitive. Only contraindications are if you have already sensitivities to citrus oils.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: GRAS – generally recognized as safe.

A Snapshot of Petitgrain Odor

Odor Snapshot of Petitgrain sur Fleur and Petitgrain Absolute

Using the Advanced Vocabulary of Odor to describe the scent of Mandarin Petitgrain leaves by Jeanne Rose. For further study with Jeanne Rose and to learn the Vocabulary of Odor enroll in class, April 2020. See /calendar.html

References
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Arctander. 1960
Gorski, R., Kania, A. Influence of coriander and petitgrain oils on the mortality of foxglove aphid (Aulacorthum solani Kalt.) occurring on tobacco.
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing. Florida. 1976
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol.  IAG Botanics. 2015 (supporter of testing hydrosols)
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose. San Francisco California, 1992
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Mojay, Gabriel.  Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit.  Rochester, Vermont:  Healing Arts Press, 1999.
Rose, Jeanne.  375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.  Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne.  The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations.  San Francisco, California:

Petitgrain absolute ~ lovely perfume ingredient from Eden Botanicals

Originally, Petitgrain EO, which means “small seed” was actually distilled from the immature and small, round green fruits of the Citrus trees.  Of course, if you distill the fruits then there will be no mature fruit to eat or preserve.  So eventually, the distillation was limited to the leaves and small branchlets, but the oil is still called Petitgrain.

~JR~

SOME CAUTIONS TO REMEMBER

Orange ~ A description of sweet Orange/Blood Orange fruit, country of origin, characteristics, Jeanne Rose skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this famous, important oil.

ORANGE ESSENTIAL OIL/HYDROSOL PROFILE

By Jeanne Rose ~ July 2019

ORANGE. LATIN BINOMIAL AND NAMING ~ Citrus x aurantium. In the past it was called Citrus aurantium, C. aurantium var. sinensis, C. sinensis and C. x sinensis with the  ‘C’ always meaning Citrus. We are discussing the sweet Orange and Blood Orange and not the Bitter Orange that was covered in the blog-post on Neroli. The orange is a hybrid  between pomelo (Citrus maxima) as the female parent and mandarin (Citrus reticulata).

            Yes, I know that this is the same exact name as is used for Clementine and Grapefruit and Bitter Orange-Neroli. But there are strict rules on naming and citrus has been examined and analyzed for parentage for quite some time.

            Citrus taxonomy  is confusing and often inconsistent. They are all named with Latin and common names. They often have the same parentage but have different physiologic forms or formae often based on terroir (such as Mandarin in Italy and Tangerine in the USA) or scent chemistry such as (limonene which has a chiral difference — both a left turning molecule, (S) for sinistral with  the sour smell of Lemon or Bitter Orange and a right turning molecule, (R) for right hand or clockwise, the sweet smell of Oranges). This is the reason we all as lovers of essential oils and aromatherapy need to learn some chemistry along with good taxonomy.

         Family –  Rutaceae

ORANGE. HISTORY, DESCRIPTION,  & COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN ~ The Orange is not known in the wild and is assumed to have originated in southern China, maybe India and Indochina. The sweet Orange was mentioned in Chinese history as early as 300 B.C. It was carried to the Mediterranean by traders around 1500. Blood Oranges originated in Sicily and Spain in the 18^th century and there are many varieties. Their pigment originates from anthocyanins. They often have intense sweet flavor with a hint of Raspberry.

            I have always wondered whether the color was named after the fruit or was the fruit named after the color? Today I found out that the color orange was named after the fruit, not the other way around. Before then, the English-speaking world referred to the orange color as geoluhread, which literally translates to “yellow-red.” —Wikipedia

            “The Color Orange Was Named After the Citrus Fruit Orange.”

           General description of plant, habitat & growth ~ This is a small, evergreen tree with a deliciously sweet pulp, dark green leaves and white flowers. The sweet Orange is a hybrid between the maternal line of the Pomelo (Citrus maxima) and the Mandarin  (Citrus reticulata) and varieties of sweet Orange arise through mutations as the sweet Orange reproduces asexually.

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            To see a chart of the five pure origin Citrus genus, please see the Mandarin Jeanne-blog post.

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         Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods ~ The peel oil is either cold-pressed or steam-distilled. If it is steam-distilled it will be a lighter color and have less of the fruity citrus odor of cold-pressed Orange. Commercially, Orange oil can also be extracted from the juice during the juicing process. Sometimes sweet Orange leaves and flowers are also distilled and that is called Petitgrain and sweet Orange flower oil.

         Yield ~ Orange peel oil yields up to 0.5% by cold-pressing.

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Orange Essence is from juice; Orange wild is from the Dominican Republic from trees that have reverted to a wild state; Orange sweet is from the United States and Blood Orange from Italy.

ORANGE ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ EO Odor is citrus, fruity and spicy. There is also an herbaceous quality to the wild Orange that would be a lovely addition in a citrus perfume. Blood Orange is very rich and more intense than the others with a better tenacity in the blend or the perfume. The odor of any Orange peel or Orange essence is dependent on its chemistry.

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            “Sweet Orange peel oil is the most important of the citrus oils.  It yields up to 0.5% by cold pressing. It is mainly produced in the south of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Florida and Brazil.  (+)-Limonene is the main constituent of this oil and has sweet scent and taste.  The aldehyde content of Sweet Orange oil is the measure of the oil.  The preferred Valencia oil possesses up to 3% aldehydes. One of which is decadienal with an extremely high aroma value.   Other constituents that contribute to the character and quality of Orange oil are the sinensal. x-sinensal has a high orange aroma scent and low odor threshold while b-sinensal has a metallic-fishy note that can be very objectionable.

            The difference between Orange and Grapefruit oil can be as simple as the amount of (+)-valencene. When the amount of a-terpineol exceeds normal level, off-notes occur.  This terpineol forms during the aging or oxidation of orange juice.  (Some essential oil of Orange is indeed produced from Orange Juice). The acetates contribute to the floral notes of Orange oil.”^{1 —} also from the Blending Book.

            The taste of Orange flesh and juice is determined mainly by the relative ratios of sugars and acids and its ripeness when eaten. It can be sweet, tangy, tart, deep and tasty,  and combinations of all of these and this taste is reflected in the odor or it might be better to say that the odor is reflected in the taste.

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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ D-Limonene (the sweet one), N-Decylic Aldehyde, Linaloöl, Terpineol, and B-Carotene.     Limonene is the most abundant compound of monoterpene hydrocarbons for all the examined juices of Blood Orange, Sweet Orange, Lemon, Bergamot and Bitter Orange and with the important difference that mirror images of this molecule changes the odor and taste.  In the citrus peels, Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the essential oil of citrus peel. The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it is found in nature as a mirror-image, two types, the (R)- and (S)-limonene. Isomer (R)- has the characteristic sweet smell of Oranges, while the (S)- smells like the sour of Lemons or bitter Orange. (R) is clockwise or right hand and (S) is counterclockwise or sinistral- left hand.

            “Sweet Orange peel oil is the most important of the citrus oils.  It yields up to 0.5% by cold pressing. It is mainly produced in the south of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Florida and Brazil.  (+)-Limonene is the main constituent of this oil also called the (R or right-hand isomer).  The aldehyde content of Sweet Orange oil is the measure of the oil.  The preferred Valencia oil possesses up to 3% aldehydes. One of which is decadienal with an extremely high aroma value.   Other constituents that contribute to the character and quality of Orange oil are the sinensal. X-sinensal has a high orange aroma scent and low odor threshold while b-sinensal has a metallic-fishy note that can be very objectionable.

            The difference between Orange and Grapefruit oil can be as simple as the amount of (+)-valencene. When the amount of a-terpineol exceeds normal level, off-notes occur.  This terpineol forms during the aging or oxidation of orange juice.  (Some essential oil of Orange is indeed produced from Orange Juice). The acetates contribute to the floral notes of Orange oil.”¹

                  There are many synonyms for the sweet limonene including,  d-limonene,  D-Limonene, (+)-Limonene, (R)-(+)-Limonene, (R)-limonene and others.

         Solubility ~ Incompletely soluble in 95% alcohol up to 10 volumes. Some Orange oil is soluble in in a quarter to half that amount.

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HISTORICAL USES ~ Digestive and flavoring. “The Color Orange Was Named After the Fruit.” Today I found out orange was named after the fruit, not the fruit named after the color. Before then, the “English-speaking world referred to the orange color as geoluhread, which literally translates to ‘yellow-red’.” —Wikipedia

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INTERESTING FACTS ~ Peel pulp  and fruit pulp contains vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.  The peel oil does not contain vitamins – so don’t drink it. Originated in China.  The oil is used for flavoring food, drink, and confectionery, Curacao type liqueurs and for flavoring cigarette paper.  The Orange tree was taken to the West Coast of America by Franciscan monks, who began the cultivation of it there.  The  cold-pressed peel oil protects against insect damage when added to furniture polish and is used in termite eradication.         

            Valencia oranges have thin skins, a few seeds, and are very juicy and are considered the best for juicing.

            Blood Orange is not quite as sweet as the sweet Orange. The red color comes anthocyanin, a type of flavonoid. It’s believed that this coloring was the result of a mutation between the blond oranges and of  Valencia’s and Navels.

            If you want to read 70 pages on the sweet Orange, blossom, oil and water, that would be volume III , pages 118-197 of The Essential Oils by Guenther. Fascinating and full of discovery.

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ORANGE PROPERTIES

GENERAL PROPERTIES OF ESSENTIAL OIL  ~ In general, the oil of Orange is slightly antiseptic, antispasmodic, a slight diuretic, sometimes a depurative (purifying), stomachic, cholagogue (promotes the discharge of bile); when inhaled is can be calming and sedating; and in skin care or by external application it has antiseptic properties.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES & HOW USED (IG OR AP) ~ Application in skin care products and for disinfection. Internally by-the-drop in orange juice, it is taken as a diuretic, for constipation, obesity, bronchitis, colds, ‘flu, and to eliminate toxins.     

         Physical Uses & How Used ~  Application (AP) – Orange oil goes nicely into many blends that are used for skincare. It would be a middle note to other aromatic oils and  blends well with many. In lotions and creams, it has a slight antiseptic quality as well as the aromatic sunshiny scent.

         Ingestion (IG) –   Don’t. Drink the juice instead and dry and keep the peels for your bath.

         Inhalation (IN) – Orange oil is relaxing by inhalation , especially when mixed with some of your other favorites such as Lavender, Spikenard, Jasmine, and many more.

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         Skin Care Formulas are available in my 350-page  Herbal Body Book that is chock-full of great skin, hair, and body care formulas. Here is one I have always enjoyed.

Corny Honey Peeler for Face or Body

         Mix together 1 tablespoon each of Cornmeal and Orange flower honey. Mix these together in the palm of your hand and then apply to a steamed and cleansed face using small circular motions. When the honey is tacky, apply a thin layer of yogurt (or buttermilk will do) over the top, take a bath or shower and remove when rinsing — first with warm and then with cool water.  Your skin will be smooth and bright.

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EMOTIONAL PROPERTIES (AP OR IN) ~ Inhaled for nervousness and anxiety.

         Emotional/Energetic Uses ~ Used by inhalation for nervous exhaustion, obsessions, to stimulate the appetite, to improve your self-image by boosting self-confidence, and assist with concentration.  Orange peel oil can also be used in a blend via application (as in massage or topical use) for these emotional and energetic states.

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            DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ You can add Orange peel/Blood Orange to any blend for diffusion. It does two things: it is rather inexpensive and brings down the price of the entire blend and it adds the sparkly sunny Orange odor to any combination of scents. A great way to refresh the air of your home.

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EATING ORANGES ~ For starters, not only is an orange a delicious fruit to snack on whenever or daily, but its health benefits are an added perk. They contain vitamin C, fiber and potassium. Eating Oranges promotes healthier and more beautiful skin, better eyesight, reduces the chances of a stroke, assists in weight loss, and helps keep our blood vessels healthy. Eating one Orange, one Apple, one Tomato, and one Carrot every day supplies the correct types of fiber into your diet.

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HERBAL USES ~ My best suggestion for using Orange oil externally is not too. That is, use the peel itself herbally. See below. But just in case you don’t know how, here are some obvious choices.

            I have been happily using Orange flowers and Orange peel for over 50 years. the sweet Orange peel is dried, cut, and added to bath herb mixtures as an aromatic and antiseptic stimulant. This peel, cut & sifted (CS),  makes any bath into a pleasure. The powdered peel can be mixed with any liquid and used as a facial mask — I like it with Almond meal or powdered Oatmeal. An infusion of the peel is also helpful as an addition to your shampoo to reduce oiliness and in the herbal rinse as well. Refer to Jeanne Rose Herbal Body Book for hundreds more uses to add to your knowledge.²

             The powdered peel sifted is also mixed with baking soda or other drying agents and used as an underarm deodorant. It does not stop the perspiration, but it does make it pleasant when you are out and about working and especially in the garden, this mixture is repellent to bugs.

Orange peel box and Orange peel Olive oil candle

            Orange Peel Box. You can also make small boxes out of the peeled flavedo (skin). Cut Orange in half, scoop out the flesh and eat that, soak the skin in water for several hours, turn skin inside out and place over a mold or copper tubing (copper kills bacteria). Let dry over the mold. Then remove. Make sure they are very dry before you  polish with a silk polishing  cloth and then fill the box with potpourri, snuff or jewelry, and make sure that the top fits over the bottom. My own hand-made boxes never looked quite as ‘finished’ as the ones that I purchased in the ’80s.

            Orange Peel Candle. Halved, defleshed Oranges can also be made into Olive Oil lamps. Keep the inner stem intact as you remove the juicy flesh as that is your wick. Fill the peel with olive oil and light the wick. Olive oil works best because of the high burning point, if it happens to spill, the oil drowns out the flame and thus your wooden house won’t go up in flames.  It probably also is wise to place the Orange on a non-burnable base like a piece of tile.

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            I also use thin-skinned Oranges at the end of the season when they are pithier – somewhere around July – and I make pomanders — those medieval objects that are used to decorate the Christmas tree or to put into a bowl and fragrance the room. Yes, it is best to make pomanders in the months of July-August when  you have a bit of time before the holidays and so that the pomander can cure by the time Christmas arrives. Pomanders are made with thin-skinned pithy Oranges (or whatever you have) and stuck full of Cloves very close together. As the pomander dries, the skin shrinks, the Cloves get closer together, preserves the Orange and the fragrant scent of Orange/Clove fills the air. They take a month or so to cure. They are easy but sometimes time-consuming to make.

HYDROSOL ~ There is not much nicer application in the morning than a spray of Orange or Blood Orange hydrosol on your face or in the air around you. It feels refreshing and  sunshiny  – a good morning tonic for the skin.  Orange and Blood Orange hydrosol is a facial toner and can be added to thick creams to thin them and they can be  incorporated into all types of  body care formulas. Blood Oranges have red colored flesh and sweet, berry-like notes that extend into the hydrosol.

Orange Hydrosol Limerick
A spray with sweet Orange hydrosol
Will make you feel good and feel tall
It will sweeten your skin
And will heal your sore chin
And heal anything short of a fall…JeanneRose2014

Positively Aromatic and Lancaster Creations are my special sources for the best citrus hydrosols. And Sandra Shuff, who owns Positively Aromatic, says her husband Douglas sprays Blood Orange hydrosol onto their salads to make a very special taste and these salads are really  delicious.  I sometimes forget how easy it is to use hydrosols on food — ‘a simple spray and away you go’.

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                  HYDROSOL — PLEASE NOTE ~ A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

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KEY USE ~ Oil of Refreshment

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BLENDING ~ Sweet Orange oil blends with  just about anything. Be sure of what you have as there is also Bitter Orange Oil and wild Orange from the Dominican Republic (oranges that are not cultivated and allowed to revert to the wild state). Try the different Orange oils with these: herbal oils like Angelica root, Clary Sage, Patchouli, Spearmint, Sage, Rosemary, Marjoram, Thyme; evergreen oils such as Juniper berry, Pine, and Spruce;  all the citrus oils such as Bergamot, Grapefruit, lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Petitgrain (these have all been written about in the jeanne-blog; the florals of Chamomile, Rose Geranium, Lavender, Mimosa, Rose, Jasmine, Vanilla; the spicy oils like Black Pepper, Caraway, Cardamom, Cinnamon; all the resinous oils such as Cistus/Labdanum, Spikenard [the resinous oils have also been discussed at length both specifically and in general  (see https://jeanne-blog.com/resin-resinoids-gums-eo/)]; and with the many CO₂ extracts that can be used in blends , skin care and perfumery.

            Arctander who wrote Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, mentions  that Orange oil is  used “as an odor-masking agent, … In perfumes, old-fashioned eau de colognes, fern perfumes, Chypres, “fruity” and citrus perfumes.” Just remember that Orange is not very tenacious in a perfume and in a few weeks can get lost and the perfume scent will change.

            Citrus Scent Notes ~  Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend.  They are usually not overpowering.  They can be used in up to 25% as the base for classic type of eau de cologne.  Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes. 

 In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the basis for English Lavender, which is an 1826 creation.   High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921).  Also, of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.

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PERFUMERY ~ Orange peel oil has much use in perfumery. Here is a formula from 1867.

Eau De Portugal
Neutral Grape Spirits at least 60 % …. 1 quart
Orange Peel zest oil … ½ oz
Bergamot Peel Oil … ¼ oz
Rose otto oil … ½ dram (2 ml)
Rinse all your cologne bottles with the spirits before filling with the Eau de Portugal.
— The Art of Perfumery by Piesse

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A SCIENCE ARTICLE ..— NUTRITIVE AND MEDICINAL VALUE OF CITRUS FRUITS by Milind S. Ladaniya, in Citrus Fruit, 2008 “ ….. ….. Organic acids present in citrus fruits, such as citric acid, malic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, and malonic acid also provide calories, and are easily metabolized as they are the part of metabolic pathways in the human body. Citrus fruits do not increase the body’s acid content. These acids are very mild compared to the hydrochloric acid present in stomach. Most of the acids are present in the form of salts of potassium (with K or Na cation). Sodium and potassium are alkaline metals; their salts are excreted by the body in the form of sweat or urine. …..”

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References:

¹Ohloff, Günther. Scent and Fragrances, The Fascination of Odors. Springer-Verlag.
²Rose, Jeanne. . /books.html
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Elizabeth, NJ. 1960
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing Company, FL. 1974. Guenther treatise on Orange Oil covers almost …….80 pages and should be read by anyone who truly has an interest in essential oils in general and Orange oil.
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol, 1^st edition, 2015, IAG Botanics
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 3rd Edition  2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Ladaniya, Milind S. • NUTRITIVE AND MEDICINAL VALUE OF CITRUS FRUITS. Citrus Fruit, 2008
Piesse, G.W. Septimus. The Art of Perfumery and the Methods of Obtaining Odors from Plants. PA. 1867.
Rawlinson, Gloria. The Perfume Vendor. Hutchinson & Co. 1937.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.
Rose, Jeanne. The Blending Class Booklet. Available from the author at  /books.html
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. Available from the author at /
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.
www.EdenBotanicals.com. 2019

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Scent Rising Up

NEROLI. Essential Oil/Hydrosol Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ June 2019

Neroli. ~ A description of Bitter Orange/Neroli flower, country of origin, characteristics, Jeanne Rose skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this famous, important oil

Neroli. Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Citrus x  aurantium L,  also called C. amara, C. aurantium ssp. Amara, C. iyo. It Is a cross between Citron and of C. reticulata (Mandarin) + C. maxima (Pomelo) as the female parent.  The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross and in this case several types of Citrus were crossed to eventually become “Bitter Orange”.   There are many backcrosses in this group of Bitter Orange/Neroli.            
To see a chart of the five pure origin Citrus genus, please see the Mandarin Jeanne-blog post.

Family ~ Rutaceae, the Citrus family

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Neroli Limerick
There is a citrus flower Neroi
It is grown in the Garden Filoli
It rings all my bells
With such heavenly smells
And sure, makes me feel all holy! … JeanneRose2012

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Neroli. History & Countries of Origin ~  Native to Europe and Siberia naturalized worldwide.

         It seems that the bitter or sour orange is a native of China in the southeastern part of Asia. From there it spread out to India and Iran. The Romans did not know it and it was introduced to the Mediterranean area  around 1000 A.D. by the Arabs and this bitter Orange was the only one known for about 500 years. Did those expert distillers and alchemists, the Moors, distill bitter Orange to get the water or the essential oil?  We don’t know. The lovely Neroli oil was first mentioned by J.B. della Porta in 1563 for the Princess of Neroli.

Neroli Naming History ~ Who is Neroli? “By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, the princess of Nerola, Italy, introduced the essence of bitter Orange tree as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath. Since then, the term “neroli” has been used to describe this essence.”

Neroli. Bitter Orange. General description of plant, habitat & growth ~ The bitter Orange tree that produces Neroli essential oil is very close in appearance to the sweet Orange. However, they may look similar but the fruit they produce is different. Bitter Orange produces a bitter flesh and pungent sweet essential oil  (called Neroli) while sweet Orange has a sweet flesh and markedly different essential oil (called sweet Orange oil). This orange is used as a rootstock in groves of sweet orange and if the sweet Orange can go wild, the bitter Orange rootstock will often take over and the subsequent fruit will be sour and the flowers sweet like Neroli. The tree has a long-life span,  up to 100 years. They are propagated by seed and/or grafting onto a disease-resistant rootstock; the young trees are planted out in April-May; they are well taken care of throughout their life and early evening or nighttime irrigation is most important in the early years to set good roots. The flowers are harvested from late April to June when the buds just begin to open and in their early years were done according to herbal principals, “harvest in the morning when the dew is dry but before the sun is high”. Now harvesting often goes on until noon particularly on warm sunny days. If the flowers are picked when closed, the odor of the oil is ‘green’, but these yield a strong Neroli water.

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            Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield ~ Bud blossoms of the true bitter  (sour) orange tree, Citrus x aurantium Linnaeus, (subsp. Amara) L., on being distilled yield Neroli bigarade oil. If, on the other hand, the leaves and petioles (leaf stalk) are distilled, oil and hydrosol of Petitgrain Bigarade is obtained.  Flowers of Bitter orange must not be mixed with the flowers of sweet Orange as the  properties , specific gravity and chemistry are different.

            THE flowers are harvested from March to May and hydro-distilled for the Neroli oil and hydrosol. > The flowers are hydro-distilled not steam-distilled and must float freely in the distillation waters (just like Roses and Ylang-Ylang).

            In North Africa, the bulk of the flower harvest is hydro-distilled, and the balance extracted with volatile solvents which yields concrete and absolute of orange flowers as well as a floral wax.

            YIELD ~ 850 kg of carefully picked Orange flowers yields 1 kg of Neroli oil after steam distillation.  Or 1 kg of Orange blossoms yields about 1 g. of Neroli oil and this oil is affected by the atmospheric conditions when it is distilled. The small, white, waxy flowers from the citrus tree are hydro-steam distilled. 
Yield:  0.8-1.0%.                                           

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Neroli Oil . ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS

            Neroli Odor Description ~ Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, strong floral aroma with powdery and aldehydic notes, very fresh with a warm base note that resembles freshly dried hay. Because of the high price of Neroli it is ever more frequently diluted or adulterated with aromatic isolates, and synthetic odors or with Petitgrain.  It can somewhat resemble Petitgrain in its odor as often Petitgrain is used to adulterate Neroli oil.  (see Odor Snapshots at the end of the article).

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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Neroli contains l-linalyl acetate and l-linalool as well as nerolidol and indole. Ocimenes, limonene, linaloöl and linalyl acetate are higher in Neroli than Petitgrain. Indole which possesses a powerful exotic floral note at high dilution and a somewhat “fresh breast-fed baby shit odor” when not diluted separates and differentiates Neroli from Petitgrain.  This indole odor is sometimes very prevalent in the Neroli hydrosol. Methoxypyrazine contributes to a green character, which also is the interesting green note in Galbanum and Green Peppers.  Nootkatone is not present in either Petitgrain or in Neroli.

            In the citrus peels, Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the essential oil of citrus peel. The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it is found in nature as a mirror-image, two enantiomers the (R)- and (S)-limonene. Isomer (R)- has the characteristic sweet smell of oranges, while the (S)- smells like the sour of lemons or bitter Orange. (R) is clockwise or right hand and (S) is counterclockwise or sinistral- left hand.

         Solubility ~ The essential oil is soluble in 1-2 volumes of 80% alcohol and gets hazy to turbid if you add more.

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HISTORICAL USES  ~ This tree, Citrus x aurantium, the bitter orange tree produces three different essential oils and a precious hydrosol. Bitter Orange oil comes from the peel of the ripe fruit, Petitgrain oil is distilled from the leaves and twigs, and Neroli oil is hydro-distilled from the flowers of the tree and the precious orange-flower water or Neroli hydrosol is the water of the distillation.

            The bitter peel is preserved in sugar and eaten as a sweet with coffee.

             The famous eau de cologne was made by Italian perfumer J.M. Farina of Cologne, Germany, who created a blend of essential oils inspired by the princess of Nerola. The blend included Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Bigarade, Neroli and Rosemary. Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by first dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary and Neroli (water) to the distillate.

INTERESTING FACTS ~ “Neroli was employed as a scent by the prostitutes of Madrid, so they would be recognized by its aroma.  On the other hand, the blossoms were worn as a bridal headdress and carried as a bouquet, symbolizing purity and virginity.  Together with Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon, and Rosemary oils, Neroli was a key constituent of the classic toilet water eau-de-Cologne” Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit, p.100.           

            • Fine perfumes can only be made with freshly distilled 70-95% neutral grape spirits.  All the older perfumes were diluted down with neutral grape spirits. Originally, they were considered medicines and were taken internally by the drop. After the introduction of synthetics, around 1850, perfumes were made with chemicalized ingredients and were no longer edible.  However, even today certain uplifting ‘spirits’ are sold in Europe as a tonic against seasickness, carsickness and all sorts of nausea.

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Neroli so special and sweet
It doesn’t smell like a beet
When I’m nervous or sad
And don’t want to feel bad
I diffuse it and jump to my feet. —jeannerose

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NEROLI PROPERTIES

            The properties of Neroli include a quieting calming sedative effect upon inhalation, adding the hydrosol in coffee is calming to the caffeine feeling upon ingestion and the EO used externally in skin-care products is used to soften or as  skin-healing scar-reducing tonic use.

            Neroli ~ Physical Uses & How used

Application:   On hemorrhoids, in skin care, in perfumery. It is especially useful in skin-care products for acne, anti-aging with Galbanum and Elemi, and applied for under-eye circles.       The Neroli floral wax is added to creams  where it aids in blocking, removing harmful UV rays, has antioxidant properties, is calming and soothing to the skin, helps eliminate dead skin cells, helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, softens skin, tones and soothes sensitive skin  and it contains carotenoids and is rich in Vitamin E. Use this floral wax in skin care products such as lotions, creams, sunscreen,  balms and for all your anti-aging formulas. There are 1250 flowers = 1 gram of wax.

Ingestion:   Take a scant drop in your tea for Insomnia, or for diarrhea. Put a scant drop in a bottle of champagne as an aphrodisiac.  Neroli water is used for nervous dyspepsia, abdominal spasm, and colic.  Neroli water is good for cranky children when mixed with Orange honey and warm water and drunk.

Inhalation: The oil is inhaled for fatigue, birthing, palpitations, and cardiac spasms.                                 

            Neroli ~ Emotional Uses
Application:    Apply in a balm on the wrists or back of neck for nervous depression

Inhalation:      Inhale the scent for depression, or as a mild sedative that is both joyous and uplifting. It is stabilizing and grounding, soothing, calming and sedating and can alleviate insomnia, PMS, and soothe fever.

         Neroli ~ Energetic Uses
Inhalation:    It is used for shock, grief, and depression. It is used in blends to increase concentration, to ease the pain of emotional abuse, to ease shocking  news, with Frankincense at the death of a loved one, for manic depression of fear of personal change and feelings, for loneliness and grief. The essential oil is truly a friend of the fearful and depressed.

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ May be diffused in a child’s room for reducing a temper tantrum,  relaxing and assisting in sleep or a ½ teaspoon of the Neroli hydrosol given for insomnia.

HYDROSOL (Orange Flower WATER) & BITTER ORANGE PEEL Uses ) ~ Neroli hydrosol/water is one of the most important herbal products used in the Middle Eastern world. True Neroli hydrosol is used in Spain and Tunisia in foods as a flavoring agent particularly in baked goods, confectionary and in drinks and it is the hydrosol that is taken for insomnia. The bitter Orange peel is also used as a sweet in Greece and Turkey and is a delicious addition to a variety of desserts such as ice-cream.

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NEROLI DISTILLATION TALE

NEROLI HYDROSOL ~   In March 2003, I had the opportunity to distill 5 pounds of organic Orange flowers for sweet Neroli Hydrosol obtained from a sweet naval Orange, variety Atwood in Lindsay, CA. from the Olsen Organic Farm. The balance of the leaves and flowers  that we picked was then sent to anther distiller for the Orange Flower and Petitgrain hydrosol. As follows.

            The trees were grown in the foothills edging the great central valley of California near the town of Lindsay. The trees are grown organically, at 500 feet with a west exposure in full sun and the area is certified organic. The area is irrigated via the San Joaquin River. The soil is USDA Porterville cobbly clay. There is about 12 inches of rainfall per year. The harvest was on Wednesday 3/25/03 from about 15 trees. Harvest weather was overcast to full sun, about 75°F  with 30% humidity.  It took 6 hours for two persons to fill 13 five-gallon buckets with twigs and flowers. This was transported to San Francisco and arrived on Thursday. Each tree produced about 1 bucket (3.3 lbs./bucket) of easily available twigs with flowers.  This effectively gently pruned the tree of excess flowers and will leave it able to produce more and tastier Oranges.

            At the farm on the following Saturday, we started with 43 pounds of twiglets that had blossoms and buds attached. It took 3-man hours (1 hour for 3 persons) to pick off the flowers and to accumulate the 5 pounds of just-opened flowers.  The fragrance was sweet, intense, floral and fruity with some green back notes. We assembled the 25-liter copper alembic still and loaded it at 2 pm with 5 lbs. of morning picked flowers and 3 gallons of spring water. The flowers were kept above the bottom of the pot with a grid and freely floating in the boiling water. Distillation ran very well, and the distillate began to run at about 2:15 p.m. We continued the distillation until 5:45 pm at which time 1.5 gallons of Orange flower hydrosol had been accumulated. The pH changed from 6.1 at 2:25 pm to 5.3 at 2:45 pm and continued at 5.3 until the end. The heads (scent) had an odor of fruit, green and floral, the body (scent) was floral, fruity and citrus. Distillation was discontinued when the odor began to get green with no floral or citrus notes.

            The balance of the leaves and flowers (38 pounds) that had been picked was sent to the larger stainless-steel unit, 1-hour north. A 4-inch copper tube was added to the gooseneck. Two hours of distillation produced 12 gallons of hydrosol. pH began at 5, the scent being green and citrus and as the distillation continued, pH became more acid to 4.4, the scent becoming more rich, citrus and spicy. 3 ml of essential oil was produced from the 38 pounds of twigs and flowers.

            Neroli Hydrosol Use – 2003. This was a wonderful hydrosol, very fragrant and sweet.  It was used in skin care products and simply as a mister.  Several misting products were produced using the hydrosol. Mixed 50/50 with Spearmint hydrosol produced a very refreshing and fragrant fruity, citrus mint hydrosol. Fabulous…oh how I wish I had some now.f

            There are many Neroli hydrosol/Orange flower water  products on the market. Many are available in your nearby liquor/bottle store as an addition to beverages. Others are available through your herbal/aromatic stores.

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            In the book, Harvest to Hydrosol, is a GC-MS of a Neroli from Canada, 2013, that shows sorbic acid -a natural preservative, and a large amount of a-terpineol and an even larger amount of linalool. What I found most interesting however, was a tiny amount of the unpleasant greasy smelling aldehyde nonanal and may be what makes Neroli excellent for perfumery but not in a deodorant.

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Key Use ~ Neroli is inhaled for depression and fatigue and used extensively in fine perfumery and the hydrosol taken for insomnia.

Neroli. Blending & Perfumery Formulas

Read the Perfumery blog to understand some of the nuances of Perfumery.

BLENDING ~Neroli blends well with just about any oil and especially with other citrus such as Grapefruit and Bergamot; and deeply floral odors such as Champaca, Osmanthus; with woody odors such as all the different Sandalwoods or Tonka bean; seed odors such as Coriander; spicy odors like Cardamom, Nutmeg and Styrax; the resin odors of Frankincense, Galbanum, Balsam of Peru/Tolu;

Neroli is one of the classic ingredients in Eaux de Cologne.

            1^st Method: “Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols* and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary oil and Neroli oil to the distillate. The classic eau de cologne contained Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Bigarade + grape alcohol, Neroli water and either Rosemary hydrosol or Neroli essential oil.”
*This refers only to neutral grape spirits

            2^nd Method: Dissolve the aromatics in 95% neutral grape spirits — distill — add the Neroli and the Rosemary. Effect the dilution required with Orange flower water or Rose water  by adding up to 8-10 quarts or if the original formula is divided by 10 use 3-4 cups of the floral water.

It is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors are combined — George Askinson

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Maia’s FLORAL-WOODY SCENT
TOP – Neroli 5 – 10 drop
HEART – Rose Bourbonia 10 drops
BASE – Sandalwood Hawaiian 10 drops
Diluent – Cane Alcohol 50 drops

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BROWN SUGAR FORMULA. The essence of brown sugar; sweet and fortifying, uplifting and refreshing. Use as an inhalant or in blends — aftershave, astringent tonics, face wash or a sweet massage.

            Smell brown sugar first to establish the scent in your mind and then start blending. Mix together, Lemon, Neroli, Patchouli, Tangerine.  Mix these basic scents together in the combination that will most resemble brown sugar.

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FLORAL-FLORAL PERFUME – 9/25/13 (JR)

(the numbers are in drops, by volume not weight)

Top Note – 20 of Lavender abs + 20 of Neroli absolute
bridge to heart note – 2 of Bergamot
Heart Note – 10 of Champaca + 5 of Orange + 20 of Jasmine abs
bridge to the base note – 1 of Cardamom
Base Note – 6 of Patchouli + 6 of Spikenard
Fixative Note of Ambergris (1•100) Make a dilution first and use 1-drop of the Ambergris dilution
To Finish – Add 100-200 drops of grape spirits to dilute. You want the perfume at 25-50%

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NEROLI. JEANNE ROSE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SCENT.
Here is a lovely Perfume with Amber essence that I call

            To make this lovely perfume, mix each note separately and let them age for a week. After a week mix the main notes together and then let that age. Then in the 3^rd week, start adding the bridge — all of it or part of it, however you like. Now let that age again. Then add an equal amount of carrier (200 drops). I prefer neutral grape spirits, but you can use a carrier oil if you wish. It just makes a different smelling perfume. Age again and then finally after a month or 5 weeks you will have a fabulous perfume at 50%. You may wish to dilute to 25%.

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NEROLI • A Favorite Tomato Tale from 1994

At the age of seven, Gloria Rawlinson (1918–1995), the poet, was afflicted with polio. She had been born in Tonga and raised in New Zealand. She was hospitalized for four years as a result of the polio and was bedridden or confined to a wheelchair for the rest of her life. She became a poet of significant achievement, eventually to be crowned the “the child poet of New Zealand” and later to become a biographer of other significant authors. She wrote the Perfume Vendor in 1935,  a book of poems heavily influenced with the exotic scents of Tonga and New Zealand. I heard of this talented poet towards the end of her life, about 1990 and was given her book as a gift by a friend. The book is fantastical, child-like, original  and a lovely  fragrant read. I included her poem of the same name, The Perfume Vendor” in my own book called The Aromatherapy Book that was published in 1992.  Around this time, maybe 1993, I was invited to a formal event at the New Zealand Embassy here in San Francisco where I met the Consul General. I had wanted to write a thank-you note to Gloria Rawlinson for the hours of enjoyable reading and I mentioned this to him. We spoke for a moment and he said he would see if her address was available. Several days after the event, I received Ms. Rawlinson address in the mail and promptly wrote her a letter. I am hoping that she received the letter and knew that there were still fans of hers in the United States. She had suffered ill-health for years and died in 1995.

Here is a small part of a poem from the Perfume Vendor …

OH! My place is taken I see—
The other vendors envy me,
The perfume-merchant, Neroli. …..
I am come home
To my scent bazaar,
With the rhizome
Of Iris florentina,
(You call it orris-root)—
Gum-resins, myrrh, opopanax,
Tolu, and sandal-wood, storax
And fifteen ounces of oil of cedar to boot— ……
“Ben Neroli—Ben Neroli—
Will you please allow me?
To dip
My little finger-tip
In the Jasmine bowl?”

SCIENCE ARTICLE: NEROLI – PAIN REDUCING. J. Nat Med.. 2015 Jul;69(3):324-31. doi: 10.1007/s11418-015-0896-6. Epub 2015 Mar 12.Analgesic and anti-inflammatory activities of Citrus aurantium L. blossoms essential oil (neroli): involvement of the nitric oxide/cyclic-guanosine monophosphate pathway.

Abstract. The analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties of Citrus aurantium L. blossoms essential oil (neroli) were investigated in mice and rats. The analgesic activity of neroli was assessed … while acute and chronic anti-inflammatory effects were investigated …. Neroli significantly decreased the number of acetic acid-induced writhes in mice compared to animals that received vehicle only. Also, it exhibited a central analgesic effect, as evidenced by a significant increase in reaction time in the hot plate method. The oil also significantly reduced carrageenan-induced paw edema in rats. …. Neroli was analyzed by gas chromatography (GC) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and twenty-three constituents, representing 91.0 % of the oil, were identified. The major components of neroli were characterized as linalool (28.5 %), linalyl acetate (19.6 %), nerolidol (9.1 %), E,E-farnesol (9.1 %), α-terpineol (4.9 %), and limonene (4.6 %), which might be responsible for these observed activities. The results suggest that neroli possesses biologically active constituent(s) that have significant activity against acute and especially chronic inflammation and have central and peripheral antinociceptive effects which support the ethnomedicinal claims of the use of the plant in the management of pain and inflammation.

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References:
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing Company, FL. 1974
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol, 1^st edition, 2015, IAG Botanics
]. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25762161
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 3rd Edition  2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Ohloff, Günther. Scent and Fragrances, The Fascination of Odors. Springer-Verlag.
Rawlinson, Gloria. The Perfume Vendor. Hutchinson & Co. 1937.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. Available from the author at /

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