CEDARWOOD

Mar20

Cedar is an ancient tree that has been used by generations of humans for physical, emotional and ritual/meditative uses. It has been confused with an American Juniper tree. Learn more.

By Jeanne Rose ~ March 2020

A true Cedar (Cedrus atlantica), tree in the SF Botanical Garden — **Cedar (****Cedrus atlantica) tree in the SF Botanical Garden – fig.1**

CEDARWOOD of (ATLAS) PROFILE

CEDAR is a common name used for several different trees from two totally different families of trees. Both family Pinaceæ and family Cupressaceæ are in the Coniferae Order of plants. Here we encounter the confusion that common names create. There are many types of Cedar trees: true Cedars from the Genus Cedrus and other trees which are actually from other genera yet also have the common name of Cedar. True Cedar, only of the Genera Cedrus, and only from the Pinaceae family is the one I want to discuss. These are different and the differences are consequential.

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COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Cedarwood (Cedrus spp).The genus Cedrus is the true cedar tree from the Pinaceae family. Most of the trees that people call Cedar are actually not and from the Cupressaceae family with names like Juniper (Juniperus virginiana) or Eastern red-cedar. (the hyphen is there to let you know that it isn’t really a Cedar tree).

There are some trees from the Cupressaceæ family which are called Cedars but when you look at their Latin binomials you will see that they are actually a Juniper or Thuja.

True Cedars from family Pinaceæ include Atlas Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica var. libani), Deodar Cedar (Cedrus deodara), Cyprus Cedar (Cedrus brevifolia ), and Lebanon Cedarwood (Cedrus libani).

From family Cupressaceæ: Port Orford-Cedar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana), Hinoki-Cedar (Chamaecyparis obtusa), Virginia-Cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Texas-Cedar (Juniperus ashei), and others from the Juniper clan of this group of trees. Remember, the trees called Cedar from the Cupressaceæ family are NOT true Cedars. I recommend, again, remember plants and their essential oils by their Latin binomial. There are also Pine trees and other types of trees incorrectly called “Cedar” trees. Know what you want and learn their correct names. https://jeanne-blog.com/re-cedar-wood-virginia/

This way, you will know for sure from which plant your oil comes.

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An explanatory paragraph explaining the difference between Cedrus of the bible and the Juniper — **Cedar vs cedar**

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True Atlas Cedar branches – photo by JeanneRose — **true Atlas Cedar branches – photo by Jeanne Rose – fig. 2**

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Another point to be aware of when using Cedar oils is whether you are using the oil of the leaf or the wood. Awareness of the part of the plant the oil is coming from is just as important as awareness of which Cedar the oil is coming from. If an oil is simply labeled Cedar, how are you to know what this oil is and how it can be used safely? All essential oils should be labeled with their Latin binomial, common name, country of origin and part of the plant used. If you look at your collection of essential oils at home or in stores, you will see that this is rarely the case.

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—A FEARLESS JEANNEROSE TOMATO TALE ABOUT THE NAME OF CEDAR —

Fifty years ago, when I first started collecting the historical books of plants (herbs and aromatics), I was put off by so many books that had the names and history of plants just plain wrong. As a science major at college (1954-1959), I was educated by and the assistant of a botanist who was a stickler in the use of correct Latin binomials and the history of each plant. He said, “you don’t need to pronounce the name correctly, but you do need to spell it correctly”. The Latin names are the same all over the world.

One of the first books I obtained was a first-edition book, dated 1951, that stated the trees that were used to build the temple of Solomon in ancient Jerusalem was the American Cedarwood named Juniperus virginiana. Well, anyone with a lick of sense knows that the Temple of Solomon was built around 1000 B.C.E. (before the common era) in the Middle East and that the tree called Juniperus virginiana is a species of Juniper indigenous to and native to eastern North America and was not named or identified or found until the early 1600s. (Yes, the Native Americans of the area used this tree, but these are not the people of Solomon’s era.) I discarded that book immediately and cannot even remember its name. But I also saw this same misinformation that “Cedrus species is a North American tree…of the family Cupressaceae” in one of our modern books on aromatherapy, published in 1995 by two well-known teachers of aromatherapy.

In 1972, I had also started collecting the true ancient rare historical books, including a copy of Gerard’s Herbal from 1632 and a copy of Plinie’s Herbal published in 1601. These I used to give me a real background and a good grounding in the aromatic plants and herbs that were to eventually make-up my life’s work.

I enjoy taxonomy now, although not so much back in 1957. Names are important and you should know the names of the plants that you use, just like you should know the names of the friends that you love. You wouldn’t call every female you know, ‘sis’ – would you? So, don’t go calling all the trees cedar either.

2 photos - on the left is branch of true Cedar and on the right is branch of Eastern red-cedar. Note the hyphen meaning they are different. — **Fig. 3**

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BOTANICAL NAME AND FAMILY OF THE TRUE CEDAR ~ Cedrus spp. of the family Pinaceae.

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CEDAR (ATLAS) & COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN ~ Morocco and Algeria. This lovely tree now is grown in many countries and does well in any Mediterranean climate. It is planted as an ornamental tree. There is an attractive stand in San Francisco’s Botanical Garden in Golden Gate Park as well as a row of true Cedars leading to the State Capitol of California.

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HARVEST LOCATION of ATLAS CEDAR FROM EDEN BOTANICALS ~ The harvest season for Atlas Cedar is March and the areas of harvest are Morocco, and the Himalayas.

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ATLAS CEDAR • GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT, HABITAT & GROWTH ~ An evergreen conifer tree with wide branches tapering to a height of 50 feet. The branches are covered with long needles, having barrel-shaped cones upright on the branches. The Cedrus Genera has needles arranged singly on growing shoots in tufts often called “whorls”. There are often 10-20 needles arranged in one tuft. The Cedrus Genera have upright cones like the Abies, but the cones disintegrate after two years.

Some of the cedars in Lebanon, Cedrus libani, however, are up to 140 feet and are said to be over 1,000 years old. One of the ten Deodar Cedars that were planted in 1872, that line the west side of the California Capitol, is the largest of its species (Cedrus deodara) in California. It measures 98 feet high, with a trunk circumference of 228 inches (19 feet) and a crown spread of 85 feet. It is drought tolerant.

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Resinous cones of Cedrus spp. – photo by Jeanne Rose Fig. 4

PORTION OF CEDAR TREE USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS & YIELD: The wood and stumps or sawdust is steam distilled. It is on occasion solvent-extracted to produce a concrète which is considered to be a true-to-nature scent.

Yield ~ 3-5%.

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SUSTAINABILITY ~ There is a decline of the Cedar forest attributable to human activities such as overgrazing, over-harvesting and illegal logging. These are having far-reaching implications for forest conservation management. This tree is considered to be endangered but not restricted.

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Essential oil and branch and cones of *Cedrus atlantica – fig. 5*

The organoleptic characteristics of an Atlas Cedar discussing the essential oil color, clarity, viscosity, intensity of odor and tenacity in a perfume or blend.

Cedar species organoleptics of color, clarity, viscosity, intensity of odor and tenacity in a blend

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Cedar ODOR DESCRIPTION/AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ I use a simple Vocabulary of Odor© to describe the odor of essential oils. It is easy to learn and very helpful in the study of these products of distillation. I also have an Advanced Vocabulary of Odor© that is more complex but gives you a snapshot of the scent. [see the end of article] So it always surprises me when someone can’t seem to use descriptive words to describe an odor and resorts to poetical uses. Poetry is beautiful but it is not helpful in describing an odor. The Perfume Album by Jessee describes one odor thusly, “It taxes vocabulary and imagination to describe adequately the precise character of the fragrance.” I find this description very unhelpful. It really doesn’t do this plant or essential oil justice.

The description of the scent of the genus Cedrus, Atlas and the others is floral, fruity and woody, with back notes of honey and spice. Compare this with the smoky, woody, conifer and fruity odor of Virginia cedar that everyone confuses with the lovely Atlas Cedar and you will see a remarkable difference. The scent snapshot comparison is at the end of this article and will show you two totally different odors that look like different ‘mountain’ ranges.

5 essential oils: the first two are genus Juniperus while that three on the right are the genus Cedrus. — Essential oils courtesy of Eden Botanicals. *fig. 6*

CHEMICAL COMPONENTS of the true Cedar ~ Alpha and Beta Cedrene, Cedrol, Atlantone, Carophyllene, and Cadinene and the other so-called Cedar, the Juniperus virginiana contain thujopsene and cedrene. These last named “cedar-woods” are used as a commercial source of thujone and hinokitol and are very different from the true Cedrus species.

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HISTORICAL USES ~ The essential oil was and is used in the perfumery, was used in mummification and to repel vermin, although now the Virginia Cedar is better for the vermin part.

“The Temple of Solomon, begun by David, was made entirely of Cedrus deodara, and a quarter of a million men were used to plunder the great forests of the Lebanon to satisfy the needs of the builder. Objects of this Cedar retain their fragrance after 3000 years.”¹

GENERAL PROPERTIES

The general Properties of Atlas Cedar are by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application. If you inhale the oil it is a tonic to the respiratory system. If you apply the oil it is considered to be an antiseptic, fungicide, and tonic, a stimulus to arterial regeneration, it helps the lymphatics as a tonic, is anti-seborrheic, and regenerative for the skin and scalp. There is no reason or use for ingestion although one source suggested that it would be useful with Sandalwood for urinary infections.

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Properties and Uses ~ Cedar leaf oils, if available, are in general used externally, well diluted for skin conditions and dandruff, fungal infections and hair loss, and inhaled in blends for the respiratory system. Cedar wood oils because they mostly come from the wood are confused with other trees with the same common name and thought to be contraindicated for people who are prone to high blood pressure and heart problems and should be avoided by people with sensitive skin. However, this may be because of the common name confusion with other genera. But true Cedar oils are normally not a problem.

Oil from the wood of Cedrus atlantica, Atlas Cedar, from the Pinaceæ family contains up to 80% Sesquiterpenes and Sesquiterpenols. Its properties are tonic to the body. It is useful in blends for external application as it aids in the removal of body fat and is used externally for cellulite and the retention of fluid in the tissue . Atlas Cedar is a good oil for the medicine chest because it is used for the respiratory system; a single drop in a half cup water to gargle for sore throat; or with two drops of Eucalyptus in a steaming bowl of water to reduce nasal and lung congestion. This would be a good oil to use in a home-made vapor salve, for relief of lung and nasal congestion. It can be added to shampoos or facial washes to reduce oily secretions and has an excellent scent for the hair and face. It is also used as a fixative in the perfume industry where it adds a lovely fruity wood note.

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Cedar Application/Skincare ~ It is used for the retention of fluid in the tissue (edema), cellulite reduction, and in skin care for reducing oily secretions. It is also used for cleansing, as a general tonic in blends for acne, rheumatism, cystitis, and scalp disorder.

A variety of formulas using Cedrus spp. oil for skin and scalp care. Fig. 7

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Hair Care

            Alopecia Study – 1999 ~ Arch Dermatol. 1998 Nov;134 (11):1349-52 Randomized trial of aromatherapy. Successful treatment for alopecia areata. By Hay IC, Jamieson M, Ormerod AD. Source – Department of Dermatology, Aberdeen Royal Infirmary, Foresterhill, Scotland. ad.ormerod@abdn.ac.uk
            ABSTRACT:      Instructions in essential oil use and scalp massage were given to 84 patients with Alopecia areata, a disorder in which the hair falls out in patches producing areas of baldness. Randomly divided into two groups, the control group massaged a combination of jojoba and grapeseed carrier oils into their scalps every night, occluding the area with a warm towel.
       The test group used the same technique but included a blend of the following essential oils
Thymus vulgaris (88 mg), [no chemotype given] (antibacterial & antifungal)
Lavandula angustifolia (108 mg), (soothing)
Rosmarinus officinalis cineole (114 mg) (healing, growth, & tonic) and
Cedrus atlantica (94 mg) essential oils
with 23 ml of carrier oil (Jojoba would be valuable here).
This procedure was followed for seven months and evaluated by various means, including photographic assessment by independent dermatologists and measurement of areas of alopecia by computerized image analysis. Although variable, the test group results showed a significant statistical advantage to the treatment regime with an improvement rate of 44%. This was comparable to conventional therapies. As it had no significant adverse effects, the essential oil treatment had a higher therapeutic ratio than some therapies. A relative lack of response in the control group indicated pharmacological activity of the essential oils as opposed to any effects arising from scalp massage alone.            CONCLUSIONS of Alopecia study: The results show aromatherapy to be a safe and effective treatment for alopecia areata. Treatment with these essential oils was significantly more effective than treatment with the carrier oil alone (P = .008 for the primary outcome measure). We also successfully applied an evidence-based method to an alternative therapy.

JEANNE ROSE FAVORITE FORMULA FOR GENERAL HAIR CARE.
Scalp Conditioner & Hair Growth
From 1969 and 2008 updated

30% Rosemary verbenone
25% Atlas Cedar
20% Rose Absolute
20% ancient Frankincense
Add an equal amount of 95% neutral grape spirits or a combination of Walnut and Jojoba oil. Mix this all together. Put into a spray or drop bottle. Label the bottle. Spray or drop a few drops once a day onto the scalp to condition the scalp. Massage in with your fingertips.
Smells resinous and sharp. The Rose absolute scent is lost. But adds a deep richness. This blend conditions the scalp and gets rid of any lingering yeast and fungus like Malassezia that feeds on oils on the scalps of most adults.

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Atlas Cedar Limerick
There was a young man from Natchez,
Whose head was balding in patches.
He used Atlas Cedar for sure,
And Rosemary that was pure
And now he no longer scratches. —JeanneRose2012

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CEDAR OIL EMOTIONAL/Energetic/Ritual Use ~ (AP OR IN) ~ Inhale this oil for protection, calming, anxiety and grounding. Use in blends for the same conditions. This is a scent that is revered in meditative practices.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Cedarwood is used by application and inhalation for chest infections and asthma and to add a pleasant woody fragrance to the air.

CULINARY/HERBAL USE ~ I know of no culinary uses for needles or wood of Cedrus spp. and herbally if I had a tree available, I would certainly distill all parts for the hydrosol and also use them as an infusion or decoction in my bath and to use as a facial spray.

Cedar sawdust baths are very healthful for the skin. In this case, either the Juniper-Cedar or the true Cedar can be used depending upon what is available.

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‘Cedar’-rice bran baths at Osmosis on Sonoma Coast – fig .8

BLENDS & PERFUMERY with Atlas Cedar ~ The Atlas Cedar oil and other true Cedar oils are widely used in blends and perfumery as a base note or as a fixative for floral odors. It blends beautifully with florals, woody-florals and the rich, tenacious, intense odor of Labdanum with its sweetness, smoky-woody, leather and powder notes. https://jeanne-blog.com/labdanum-cistus-resin-eo-hydrosol-profile/

Cedar oils blend well ~ with all florals, herbal scents, citrus scents, and roots and woods. It is a fantastic fixative in perfumery. Often used in masculine perfumery for its deep woody and floral, fruity odor.

SPRING — FLORAL & WOODS PERFUME
Head – 20 drops of Bulgarian Rose and Bergamot. I like to use more Bergamot than Rose.
Heart –20 drops of Egyptian Geranium and Ylang-Ylang Extra
Base – 20 drops of Atlas Cedar and Haitian Vetivert
Fixative – 5 drops of anything woodsy that you have
Total is 65 drops.

Succuss together vigorously. Add your carrier, I prefer neutral grape spirits, about 130 drops to make a 33% perfume formula. Succuss again. Label carefully. Put aside to age and meld for 10 days. Use with pleasure.

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Pharaoh’s Limerick
Atlas Cedar is more like a Pine
With needles so pretty and fine
Use as a scent
To the tombs, you’ll be sent
And be invited by Pharaoh to dine.

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HYDROSOL ~ I have not had the pleasure to use the hydrosol of either the cones, needles or wood of any species of the true Cedar.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

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**Cones and needles** **of Cedrus atlantica var. glauca –** **Cedar ~ Golden Gate Par**k. *fig. 9*

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INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ The Cedar tree was used by other ancient cultures for sarcophagi and palace and temple material. Sometimes called ‘satinwood’. The Latin name means ‘Atlas Cedar’, that is, the tree growing in the Atlas Mountains that span Morocco and Algeria. Different species of cedars are found all over the world. [in the book, essential aromatherapy, p. 122, there is a sentence that says, “Native Americans use the cedar as medicine and burn it for purification”,” and this is woefully incorrect as this book is confusing American ‘cedar’ Juniperus virginiana with the true Cedar, Cedrus spp.].

Roy Genders in Scented Flora of the World, states that “Cedrus deodara did not reach Britain until 1731 and that it is as hardy there as it is in its native habitat. It is a beautiful pyramidal-shaped tree with gracefully drooping branches that often reach to the ground. … The wood is precious, extremely durable and its fragrance transcends that of other woods”.

In my own experience, the needles and wood are only very lightly scented, and the wood has to be distilled or cooked and macerated to obtain that wonderful woody, floral and fruity scent.

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CONTRAINDICATIONS ~ There are no known contraindications to the use of the Cedars; Atlas, Lebanon or Deodar.

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ~ Be certain that you’re not using Juniperus virginiana, also called “Cedar-wood”. Both oils are used in repelling vermin in the storage of valuables, and the oils should not directly touch the garments. Cedrus atlantica is a true cedar, whereas Juniperus virginiana contains mostly Cederene. Even though they have the same common name, and although they both repel vermin, they are not used identically otherwise. So, be absolutely certain of which oil you are using.

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5 bottles of Cedar oil, both the darker Juniper and the true Cedar on the right. — **Beautiful essential oils – see true Cedar oils on the right.** **fig.10**

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KEY USE~ Respiratory disorders, hair care, and perfumery.

Safety Precautions fig. 11

References:
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Arctander. 1960
Britton, Lord, and Hon. Addison Brown • An Illustrated Flora of the Northern United States and Canada Vol. II • (New York, NY: Dover Publications, 1970.)
Franchomme, P. and Pénoël, Docteur D • L’Aromatherapie Exactement • (Limoges, France: Roger Jollois Editeur, 1990.)
¹Genders, Roy. Scented Flora of the World. St. Martins Press. 1977
Grieve, M. A Modern Herbal: the …Properties, …with their Uses. Brace & Company, Harcourt, 1931
Guenther, Ernest, Ph.D. • The Essential Oils • (Malabar, FL: Krieger Publishing Co. 1976) (original ed 1952.) (in VI volumes)
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Mojay, Gabriel. Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit. Rochester, Vermont: Healing Arts Press, 1999 Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California
Sudworth, George B. • Forest Trees of the Pacific Slope • (New York, NY: Dover Publications, 1967.)
Tutin, Heywood, Burgers, Moore, Valentine, Walters and Webb, Editors • Flora Europaea, Vol 4 • (Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press, 1976.)
Worwood, Susan & Valerie Ann. Essential aromatherapy, a pocket guide. Novato, CA: New World Library, 2003.

Scent Snapshots of Cedar-Cedar Odor — Cedar-Cedar Odor Snapshot. Using Jeanne Rose Circular Vocabulary of Odor. *fig. 12*

A chart of what the scent of Virginia Cedar and Atlas Cedar look like, called "Mountain Ranges" - using the Vertical Vocabulary of Odor. — **“Mountain Ranges” — what the scent looks like using the Vertical Vocabulary of Odor.** **fig. 13**

~ JR ~

EUCALYPTUS-pt 2

Dec16

Eucalyptus-pt 2 ~Synopsis ~ Includes properties, uses, how to use the herb and oil, chemistry, tomato tales, history, references, precautions, blending and formulas for health and well-being.2

By Jeanne Rose December 2019

Beautiful Eden Botanical Eucalyptus oils and Eucalyptus trees — **Beautiful** **Eden Botanical Eucalyptus oils** **and Eucalyptus trees**

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Eucalyptus-part 1 synopsis ~ Eucalyptus leaves have been used for thousands of years, there are many species, that support the health of your body; contains species information and general descriptions, harvest location, and sensory characteristics of many of the essential oils.

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 GENERAL PROPERTIES

For the individual oils see https://jeanne-blog.com/eucalyptus-pt-1/

The most common species available will be the oils of E. citriodora, now known asCorymbia citriodora, the Lemon Eucalyptus from Malawi, Madagascar, and Australia; E. dives – Broad-leafed Peppermint Eucalyptus. This contains piperitone, but there are E. dives with identical morphology but different forma which do not contain this peppermint-scented chemical; E. globulus – Blue Gum Eucalyptus at home in southeastern Australia and there are several subspecies with a different distribution. Also found in Portugal and the USA in different terroir and thus slightly different odors. It is also named Fever tree as it was planted to drain malarial swamps in the Eastern Mediterranean area; E. polybractea – Mallee or Blue-leaved Mallee Eucalyptus from Australia and E. radiata – Narrow-leaf or Narrow-leaf Peppermint Eucalyptus from Australia and So. Africa.

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Properties of Eucalyptus – The properties of Eucalyptus oil can be by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application.

• Inhalation: Antiseptic, expectorant, mucolytic, anti-infectious, antibiotic, antiviral, bactericide, and tonic.
• Application: Antiseptic, anti-infectious, antibiotic, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, pectoral, vulnerary, stimulant, mild local analgesic.
• Ingestion: Antiviral, expectorant, anti-infectious, antibiotic, tonic and febrifuge.

USES – any Eucalyptus essential oil will work best on the respiratory system.

∞ It is the Oil of Respiration ∞

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Eucalyptus-pt 2
Here are some of the conditions Eucalyptus oil and leaf might treat.
bronchitis
colds
ear infections (otitis)
flu
sinusitis
sore throat

Good for
acne
burns
chickenpox
depression
emotional overload
exhaustion
fever
herpes
insect repellent
shingles
tissue regeneration
urinary tract
vaginitis
wound healing
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EXTERNAL USE of Eucalyptus Oil ~ This oil is used externally as a simple or in a blend, externally as a massage for arthritis, for muscle pain, asthma, bronchitis, congestion, coughs, or on simple burns, and as a disinfectant-antiseptic, for fibromyalgia, and as an insect repellent.
Eucalyptus is cooling and has a powerful action in all types of fevers. An easy way to apply the EO and to induce good sleep is to massage E. smithii or E. radiata onto the feet, particularly on the soles. For aching muscles and joints, apply or massage directly onto the area. I prefer a blend mixing the Eucalyptus globulus with Sage or Rosemary oil.

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Eucalyptus-pt 2 – DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Any of the Eucalyptus oils can be used in the diffusor, and mix easily in various blends that include spices, woods, seeds, roots, leaves, citrus and any of the herbs. The Blue Gum, Eucalyptus globulus seems to be quite stable in soap and is uplifting and fragrant. Quite an easy oil to use and to diffuse.
I especially appreciate using an inhalator, shown below. A very good piece of equipment to use for inhaling essential oils with either steam or hot water.

the inhalator, a funnel shaped tool to hold hot water and essential oils. — **Inhalator**

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2. EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USE ~ “In energy work, the family Myrtaceae and especially the genus Eucalyptus is considered to be notable for its balance of all the elements of air, fire, water, and earth. It brings this balance to healing. It achieves this by focusing its effects on the energy centers, which are the lungs and the metabolism. The Eucalypts roots drain water from the swamps, and so does the essential oil of the leaf drain mucus and bring it up from deep in the lungs. It is strong and vigorous in its nature and is resistant to insects and disease — this indicates the power of the essential oil in healing and as a restorer of energy, vitality and balance to a system that has been physically or emotionally weakened by illness. It restores life in general and aids in the prevention of disease by shoring up the reserves of the immune system.”¹

An Energizing Formula is a combination of Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus) and Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) in equal parts, inhaled on a hanky or via a diffuser or 6 drops of the formula with a carrier oil for massage.

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 INTERNAL – Internal Uses ~ We do not recommend the internal use of Essential oils. If you choose to do so, it is recommended that competent complementary medical advice be received. Take at your own risk!

Some use Eucalyptus oil for urinary tract infections (UTI). It has diuretic and antiseptic properties. Here you may wish to make a mixture of Australian Sandalwood and Eucalyptus smithii in a formula of 1•1. Take 2-3 drops in a gelatin capsule, Cranberry or Marshmallow root capsule or in honey 3X/day for no more than 2 days.

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EUCALYPTUS BLENDING AND PERFUMERY

BLENDS BEST ~ Eucalyptus blends well with many essential oils especially those with therapeutic value such as Black and Green Pepper, various species of ‘cedar-wood’, herbs such as Lavender, Lemon Balm, Peppermint, the grass oils such as Lemongrass or Palmarosa, all type of seed oils and root oils, Mediterranean oils of Rosemary, Lavender, Marjoram, and other Australian oils from the Leptospermum spp. (aka teatrees), and conifer oils and the citrus oils. All sorts of therapeutic formulas can be made with one or another of the Eucalypts.

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 ~BLENDING WITH FORMULA ~

FORMULAS & RECIPES

All-Purpose Formula: For all respiratory tract infections, herpes, sore muscles, strains, athlete’s foot, parasites, and fleas… Mix 3 drops each of E. globulus, Rosemary and Lavender to 1 oz of Calendula infused or simple Olive oil. Apply externally to the chest and around the nose.

•Bedbug repellent: Mix the following essential oils together; Eucalyptus citriodora (Corymbia citriodora) oil – 10%, Orange Oil – 5%, Peppermint Oil – 5%; with alcohol 80% of the formula . Spray everywhere.

• Herpes: You will want an EO that contains citral such as Lemon tea tree (Leptospermum citratum or L. petersonii) from Australia with 80% citral and some citronellal. Mix 3-4 drops each E. globulus, L. citratum, Citrus x limon (Bergamot), and Pelargonium graveolens to 1 oz of Lemon Verbena or Melissa hydrosol. Apply 1-drop externally to the mouth or nose herpes. Shake vigorously before each use. It will ‘bite’ you.

•Insect Repellent: Add 1 teaspoon of E. citriodora (Corymbia citriodora) + ½ t. dish soap to make an emulsion. Add this to 1 cup of warm water or Tea Tree hydrosol. Rub into the skin before going out to make a powerful insect repellent.

• Respiratory: 1 drop each of any Eucalyptus, Lavender CT cineol*, Pine or Fir, and Thyme. Add to a pot of boiling water, bend over the pot, and cover head and pot with a towel. Inhale through the nose to treat the sinus and exhale through the mouth, then inhale through the mouth and exhale through the nose to treat the throat and lungs. Or use the oils and technique explained in ‘Sequential Inhalation”.
* In 1870, F. S. Cloez identified and ascribed the name “eucalyptol” to the chemical that is now correctly known as 1,8-cineol.

• Tonsillitis/Sore Throat: Mix equal parts of Eucalyptus, Tea tree and Thyme and put into a diffuser. Open mouth near diffuser spout and breathe in through the mouth and out through the nose for 1-2 minutes every half hour or so. For children use half the amount of Thyme. I have known some students use a Q-tip to paint the tonsil area with a bit of this mixture or Tea Tree or Clove oil for sore throat. But it is not something that I could do.

— The Aromatherapy Studies Course. Institute of Aromatic Study.
San Francisco, CA.

EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 PERFUMERY ~ I have never used any of the Eucalypts in a perfume, although I have seen it listed in Chrissie Wildwood’s book, in a list as a perfume top note and that it blends well with Lavender and Rosemary. I do agree that it blends well with many oils and is used in blends for massage and therapy, but I would not use most of the popular species of Eucalyptus in a true perfume.

It is possible that 1-drop of Eucalyptus dives ct. piperitone or other Eucalypts with 100 drops of sweet scents would uplift and enhance the perfume.

Eucalyptus macarthurii is mainly used in perfumery because its major component is geranyl acetate up to 44-56% and some of its varieties as high as 70%. It also contains geraniol, linalool and α, and β-eudesmol. I have not had the opportunity to smell this oil but imagine it might be similar to some types of Pelargonium spp. with their pleasant fruity/floral aroma.

EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 HYDROSOL ~ I have not had the opportunity to distill or use Eucalyptus hydrosol. The only person I knew who did distill a species of Eucalyptus became sick because of the odor of a component called cuminaldehyde. Now of course we know we should distill some of the species twice to have the best possible scent and therapeutic result. If you have distilled Eucalyptus and send me a bottle of its hydrosol, I will add it to this post.

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Eucalyptus-pt 2 chart with both Chinese & Western Uses

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Eucalyptus pt 2 is 6 botanical species of Eucalyptus oil of Australia showing organoleptic qualities and some very color-full oils. — **6 botanical species of Eucalyptus oil of Australia showing organoleptic qualities and some very color-full oils.**

From left to right is E. globulus, #5 E. stageriana, #4 E. polybractea,
#3 E. dives, #2 E. radiata, #1 E. citronella (Corymbia citriodora)

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INHALING Respiratory oils SEQUENTIALLY AS A TREATMENT
For Cold & flu*

This is the most important reason JEANNE ROSE uses the Eucalyptus EO!

Be prepared to fight those awful cold & flu season symptoms with pure, therapeutic quality essential oils from plants. No drowsy side effects! 100% natural! Include in the treatment Black Spruce, Douglas Fir (organic), Eucalyptus radiata, Fir Pine (Abies siberica, 1975), Rosmarinus pyramidalis, for the sinus and Ravensara aromatica (organic).
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SEQUENTIAL INHALATION WITH a COLDS & FLU KIT
From Jeanne Rose Aromatherapy Studies Course

There are six essential oils suggested in the Jeanne Rose Aromatherapy Colds & Flu Kit and they include Black Spruce (stimulate the adrenal), Douglas Fir (antiseptic and disinfectant), Eucalyptus radiata (expectorant and mucolytic or liquefies the mucus in the lungs), Rosmarinus pyramidalis (sinus cleanser and relief), and Fir Pine is Abies spp. (cleanser and respiratory tonic), and Ravensara aromatica (antiseptic, antiviral).

When there is any sort of respiratory congestion, it is good to inhale the essential oils in hot water. Your mother probably taught you to do this. You will need a pot, water, essential oils and a towel (or an inhalator). Bring two cups of water to a boil in a small pot. Bring the pot to the table. Cover your head with a towel over the pot making a tent. Now add one drop of essential oil at a time to the pot. Inhale until the scent is gone and then add the second oil. Continue until you have used all six oils. Use the oils in the sequence as given above. This will take about six-eight minutes. Do not add more than one drop of essential oil at a time. Inhale the scent until the scent is gone (about one minute). [If you add more than one drop at a time you will probably gag and cough which is not a healthy act].

Inhale through the mouth, exhale through the nose; then inhale through the nose and exhale through the mouth. Alternate throughout the procedure. This gives the essential oils a chance to cleanse both the sinus area and the throat and lungs.

By inhaling only one oil at a time, you will be getting the full benefits of the oil before moving on to the next.

Black Spruce is stimulating to the adrenals to get them to start working and to prevent asthma attacks as well as to help get the person off synthetic cortisone.

Douglas Fir is relaxing to the airways and has a bit of limonene. Limonene is an unsaturated monoterpene and the main component in the essential oil of citrus and some conifers. It functions extremely well as an ozone scavenger. It may be a key to preventing asthma since natural “ozone scavengers” – produced by all plants – can help break the cycle that makes treating asthma so difficult. Douglas Fir also refreshes the air.

Eucalyptus radiata is a very gentle Eucalyptus oil that acts as mucolytic, liquefying the mucus in your nose and lungs and helping to eliminate it through coughing or sneezing.

Rosmarinus pyramidalis, for the sinus, is cleansing and tonic to the sinus and stimulates the body to wake up and the brain to wake up, to get up and to feel good. The oils also help refresh the air. This Rosemary is a specific to cleanse the sinus.

Fir Pine (Abies siberica. Fragrant and antiseptic, inhaled to discourage bacteria in the airways.

And finally, Ravensara aromatica, which is anti-infectious and expectorant.

*The Jeanne Rose Colds & Flu Kit came with full directions was only $45.00 and included the above six Essential Oils and was packaged in a Handcrafted Tapestry Bag. This kit is no longer in production, but it can be made by you. Should you want my kit, please privately order at aromaticplant@yahoo.com

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 ~PHARMACEUTICAL USES ~ “Eucalyptus oil is used in throat lozenges; chest rubs and liquids for the purpose of clearing mucus from the nose and lungs and to relieve upper respiratory distress. It is mucolytic. It is also used in air fresheners, deodorants and insecticides. These are exactly the same reasons we use Eucalyptus in aromatherapy but without the synthetics, alcohol, dyes and artificial flavorings mixed in.” —unnamed source

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Eucalyptus tree by Tracy Feldstein

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 ~ HERBAL USES ~ I have mentioned the herbal uses of Eucalyptus leaves in several of my books. The leaves can be used in the bath as an infusion for cleansing and the “antiseptic action and the scent coming off the bathwater is especially nice when you have a cold or a respiratory problem.”¹²The leaves are used also in sleep pillows for breathing problems, and they are useful in mixtures of herbs for dandruff or scalp conditions. The leaves of most species can also be used when they have been macerated or decocted in oil (then strained), the infused oil being used in lotions, ointments for chapped hands, or as a rub for aching muscles. This is a very useful leaf to use herbally. Here is a link to a great chart that lists both herbal and essential uses of 81 plants. http:///articles/EO_Herbs.htm

The leaves of various species of Eucalyptus are used as a flavorant in Gothic Gin.

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 ~AGRICULTURAL USES ~ One of the most interesting uses I have found for Eucalyptus is in the gold business. Apparently, if Eucalyptus grows where there is gold in the earth, these trees that suck water out of the soil, (when there is gold in the soil) will absorb the gold into their leaves via the water. However, gold is toxic to Eucalyptus leaves and is then excreted. The leaves drop, the gold searchers need only test the leaves rather than digging huge holes and if the leaves come up positive then the searchers start the digging. In Canada, this is done with Pine leaves (needles) and in Australia, it is Eucalyptus when hunting for gold and other precious metals.

Eucalyptus is a heavy user of water and is planted in marshy areas to drain the soil, with less water, there are fewer mosquitoes and in some areas, fewer mosquitoes means less malaria.

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Eucalyptus-pt 2 ~ HISTORICAL AND INTERESTING ~ The essential oil .. “extracted from eucalyptus leaves contains compounds that are powerful natural disinfectants and can be toxic in large quantities. Several marsupial herbivores especially koalas and possums, are relatively tolerant of it. The close correlation of these oils with other more potent toxins called formylated phloroglucinol compounds (euglobals, macrocarpals and sideroxylonais allows koalas and other marsupial species to make food choices based on the smell of the leaves. For koalas, these compounds are the most important factor in leaf choice. Eucalyptus flowers produce a great abundance of nectar, providing food for pollinators that include bats, birds, insects, and possoms.”⁵

In 1870, F.S. Cloez identified and ascribed the name “eucalyptol” to what is now correctly known as 1,8-cineol. So, eucalyptol is an old out-of-date name and you should use cineol or cineole.

“In 1896 R.T. Baker and H. G. Smith collaborated on a series of investigations of the Eucalyptus species and “were the first to use chemistry as a means of differentiating species which showed very slight botanical differences.¹¹”

“Malaria was extinguished from the swampy Paludi Pontine region near Rome through plantation planting with Tasmanian blue gum. The word malaria is Italian (mala aria) for ‘bad air’. Originally it was believed that the disease was caused by the foul smell from the swamps. The fragrant eucalyptus trees would freshen the air. Today, the beneficial effect is explained by a reduction of the mosquitos transferring the disease. The water demanding eucalyptus trees partly dried out the swamps, and the essential oil of the fallen leaves possibly hampered the development of the mosquito’s larvae.”⁶

**•4 different sets of Eucalyptus oil representing organic, and wild, 8 species, and 3 company lines.**

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• Jeanne Rose EUCALYPTUS TOMATO TALES

Insect Repellant Formula ~ I use essential oils of Catnip, Lemon Eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) and Lemongrass for a bug repellent control. I have experimented with many blends and find that adding the Catnip oil significantly increases the effectiveness.

Formula:
½ oz Neem oil and add ½ oz of Coconut oil and shake together with ½ cup 95% neutral grain spirits.
Add:
1-dram (120 drops) catnip oil – attracts cats but repels bugs. (Don’t use this in the jungle or woods where tigers, lions, and panthers live).
1-dram (120 drops) Lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) E.O (bug repellent)
1-dram (120 drops) Lemongrass/Citronella mixture E.O (bug repellent)
2-ml (60 drops) Lavender/Peppermint E.O mixture for scent (Total 420 drops)
Succuss the essential oils together well to integrate (mix). And then add the Neem and vegetable oil and alcohol and shake well (succuss) before using each time. When you wish to use this, dilute 1-2 times with hydrosol or distilled water. Put into spray containers and use liberally. Shake before each use. This recipe must also be reapplied frequently. It does require frequent reapplication; you could increase the Lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) or add more fractionated coconut or grapeseed oil.

Personal Preferences in this formula. I prefer using the alcohol to vegetable oil because the oil makes you feel sweaty and that attracts bugs. A light spray of the scented alcohol works better for me. The spray mixed with 50•50 with distilled water or Catnip hydrosol lasts from 1-3 hours depending on how much a person sweats. In an unscented lotion base, it will last longer. The total essential oil content is about 1.5% in the spray and less than that in the lotion since it stays on longer and people tend to apply more if using the lotion. Use this at dusk and spray the screens and mosquito netting (both at dusk and before bed). This recipe is a combination of a student and my personal research.

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EUCALYPTUS-pt 2 ~ CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Upon distillation it takes approximately 125 lbs. (50 kg) of Eucalyptus leaves to produce 2.5 lbs. (1 kg) of Eucalyptus oil. The primary chemical constituent of Eucalyptus oil is 1,8-cineole (aka eucalyptol or eucalyptus oxide). Cineole belongs to a group of chemical compounds called oxides. The properties of Oxides are known to be mucolytic, expectorant and for those with an ‘energetic’ mind-set, centering. Whenever you find cineole in essential oil in large quantities, you know that that EO. is going to be very good for the lungs. Many Eucalyptus species contain at least 70-80% cineole. Even Lavender oil with cineole will be useful for the lungs (cineole is considered an off-chemical for Lavender and indicates a poor quality E.O.).

The Eucalyptus essential oil generally comprises 70% cineole, pinenes, sesquiterpene alcohols, aromadendrene, and cuminaldehyde.

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The chemistry of the Eucalyptus oils is very interesting. Each species has different components.

An example is Lemon Eucalyptus (E. citriodora) now called Corymbia citriodora contains 60% citronellal and 20% citronellol. This is a better smelling scent than Citronella and because it has more of the alcohol citronellol it also is a better bug/insect repellent. This EO is not very expensive and would be a great addition to soap. Bug repellent, when inhaled, it is also calming and relaxing.

E. dives whose chemistry can change within a small group of the trees, has several distinct chemotypes and large quantities “have been distilled for the manufacture of synthetic thymol and menthol”¹⁴ if the principal component was piperitone. “The observance of physiological forms was first observed in this species”.¹⁴

E. globulus usual chemistry is 63% 1,8-cineole, 22% alpha-pinene, 4.6% limonene, 2-3% aroma-dendrene and the properties are expectorant, mucolytic, stimulant and mild local analgesic.¹³

The chemistry of E. polybractea CT cryptone is 54.5% cineole, 19.7% beta-phellandrene, 6.8% alpha-phellandrene, 2.7% limonene, 1.6-1.9% each of alpha-pinene, alpha-thujene, sabinene, myrcene, terpinene-4-ol, cryptone and the essential oil properties are mucolytic, expectorant, antiviral, anti-malarial.¹³

E. radiata chemistry is50-70% 1, 8-cineole, 8-32% alpha-terpineol, 6-8% limonene, 2-4% alpha-pinene, 1-2% myrcene, beta-phellandrene, terpinene-4-ol, terpenyl acetate and the EO properties are Mucolytic, expectorant, anti-infectious, rhinitis, and muscle relaxer.¹³

E. smithii chemical profile is 78% cineole, 8 % alpha-pinene, 6% limonene and 2% alpha-terpineol and the EO properties are Mucolytic, anti-infective, disinfectant, local analgesic, calming.¹³

•YIELD ~ The yield of E. globulus is from .75 to 1.25% while E. polybractea is .75 to 2.% and up to 5% for some species. The season of the harvest and the age of the plant affects the yield. Young plant material yields more oil.

•SOLUBILITY ~ Eucalyptus oil is soluble in 1.5 to 3.0 volumes of 70% alcohol. Some species are soluble in 1.0 to 1.2 volumes of 70% alcohol.

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Abstract/Scientific Data ~ In Food Chemistry, vol. 129, Issue 4, 15 Dec. 2011, pages 1427-1434, there was an interesting article called, “Antibacterial activity and chemical composition of 20 Eucalyptus species’ essential oils. [https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2011.05.100]. The highlights include the information that ten chemotypes were identified, including cineole, cryptone, and others.

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Key Use ~ The Oil of Respiration

• Resources ~ I have made great use of the website called www.google.scholar.com for a variety of interesting scientific studies.

•References:
¹Adapted and Used with permission. The Aromatic Thymes. Vol. 2. #1. Winter 1994.
²https://www.anbg.gov.au/cpbr/cd-keys/Euclid/sample/html/history.htm
³ https://anbg.gov.au/aborig.s.e.aust/eucalyptus-species.html
⁴Optimum planting densities for the production of eucalyptus oil from blue mallee (Eucalyptus polybractea) and oil mallee (E. kochii). Author links. P. L. Milthorpea, M.I. H. Brooker, A. Sleeb H. Nicolc. 1998.
⁵Wikipedia
⁶http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils11/EssentialOils11.htm#Eucalyptus
⁷Private communications.
⁸https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ffj.2730090203
⁹GC/MS analysis of volatile constituents and antibacterial activity of the essential oil of the leaves of Eucalyptus globulus in atlas median from Morocco
¹⁰Chemistry and bioactivity of Eucalyptus essential oils. Allelopathy Journal 25(2):313-330 • April 2010
¹¹A Research on the eucalypts and Their Essential Oils by R. T. Baker and H. G. Smith.
¹² by Jeanne Rose. 2000. Available at /books.html
¹³http://www.aromaticplantproject.com/articles_archive/Australian_Essential_Oils.html
¹⁴Guenther. The Essential Oils, vol 4, p. 465
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Brooker, Ian and David Kleinig. Eucalyptus, An Illustrated Guide to Identification. Reed Books, Australia. 1996
Elliott, W. Rodger and David L. Jones. Encyclopaedia of Australian Plants
FLORA. Publication of the California Native Plant Society. Summer 2019
Franchomme & Pénoël .Aromatherapie
Guenther. The Essential Oils.
http://www.aromaticplantproject.com/articles_archive/Australian_Essential_Oils.html
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992, 2018
https://catalogimages.wiley.com/images/db/pdf/0471273961.excerpt.pdf (Nomenclature &taxonomy)
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Rose, Jeanne .The Aromatherapy Studies Course, CH. 14. 1999.
Webb, Mark A. Bush Sense, Australian Essential Oils. Griffin Press, Australia. 2000
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California.

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“Of all the essential oils Eucalyptus is one of the most powerful and useful.”

Safety Precautions - Use with care or not at all on children and the elderly. — **Safety Precautions**

SAFETY PRECAUTION ~ Use with care or not at all on children and the elderly

Perfume escaping from a bottle — ***Rising Up***

Ylang-Ylang Flowers & Oil

Oct18

Synopsis ~ The history, botany, cultivation, distillation of the flowers for essential oil, solubility and the uses of the oil.

Distillation and aromatherapy books, 10 different bottles of Ylang-Ylang oil and a small copper distillation unit. — **Books and oils needed for research**

YLANG-YLANG ESSENTIAL OIL PROFILE

YLANG-YLANG BOTANICAL & LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Cananga odorata Hook. f. & Thomson. Ylang has other common names such as Macassar-oil plant, or perfume tree. Ylang-Ylang is said to mean ‘flower of flowers’ in the Philippines. However, I was not able to confirm this. It could mean several other words as well. The Tagalog name is ilang-ilang.
“The species and its genus have a long and rather confusing nomenclatural history that has yet to be resolved completely.”³—Turner and Veldkamp

            Naming ~ There are two forms of the plant, often called Cananga odorata forma macrophylla which produces the oil called Cananga and the more well-known Cananga odorata forma genuina which is the oil we will be discussing. They are considered different trees with different plant descriptions, forma macrophylla from Java and other islands while forma genuina is best when from Madagascar.
       I have been fortunate to have seen and smelled both types although at the time (1990) I was not aware of the difference in the plants.

         Family – Annonaceae

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COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN ~ Native to India, Indonesia, and the Philippines, and grows well in the Comoros, Islands of Madagascar, Réunion, as well as Haiti and Zanzibar. The Fairchild Tropical Gardens in Coral Gables, Florida have trees as does the Palm Beach Garden Club (I believe that was the name of the place where I spoke about 20 years ago).

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT, HABITAT & GROWTH ~ Tall tropical tree growing over 60 feet high with large drooping yellow flowers, up to six inches wide. The flowers first appear green and are without fragrance and covered in white hairs, then, roughly twenty days later, change to white then to yellow and become very fragrant.

“In this country, there are also large trees which at certain times produce very beautiful fragrant flowers. One of these is the Cananga-tree, which is rather high, beautiful of the trunk (which sometimes may be a fathom around), and greyish of bark. The leaves are in rows on long twigs arranged against each other, about as long as wide, similar to a peach leaf, acute, and full of ribs. The blossom, or flowers, show themselves here and there between the leaves, in bunches, well similar to a somewhat yellow or orange ribbon, which hangs down, consisting of six long narrow weak leaflets, about a little finger long, and as wide.
Her true color at first is pale yellow, having on top as a small peppercorn, from which the fruit comes. They are very strong in scent, which they spread along the whole road where this tree stands, especially towards the night; yet their color is the most pleasant. Most of the flowers fall without producing a fruit (a few excepted) and were collected, for nosegays for the young damsels, to carry them in their hair. The native dries it, too, to smoke it under his tobacco, or to eat them with betel nut, putting a leaflet with the betel quid. They also serve to decorate with them the vegetable-bows at the large festivals, and especially with an oil that has been extracted, which is very strong, fragrant, and useful against many ailments originating from frigidness. The natives also use this oil below their betel nut, also they mix it together with their bobori . The wild does not differ much from the tame, of which we show a branch on No XLII.”³

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Ylang-Ylang flowers

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PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS ~

The flowers are harvested fresh and hydro- or steam-distilled. In 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols, explicit instruction is given on how to distill Ylang-Ylang flowers. See p. 159.⁴
1) all parts of the still must be immaculate.
2) the flowers should be fully mature, not damaged, and harvested early in the morning.
3) flowers must be taken immediately to the distillery and distilled immediately.
4) the stills are direct-fired, and the water should be almost boiling when the flowers are added.
5) proceed smoothly, quickly, uniformly with supervised eyes-on distillation.
6) condensation must be efficient, and the fractions sharply cut off.
7) complete notes should be taken on all parts of the growing, harvesting and distillation including information on the distillation weather, water, equipment, wind and temperature during the distillation.

“The flowers of the tree are steam-distilled. “The first part of the distillation produced within the first 45 minutes produces the finest oil, known as “Extra” and the receiver is then removed, and another receiver put in its place. The “Extra” is used mainly in perfumery. The same flowers continue to be distilled for several more hours and in 2 ½ hours, another receiver when removed is called the 1^st fraction, as the distillation continues for several more hours and the receiver is removed and this is called the 2^nd fraction, distillation will continue for up to 10-14 hours and finally, the end result is called the 3^rd fraction. This last fraction is often used for removing varnishes. This process can take up to fourteen hours. Ylang-Ylang oil is also produced by solvent extraction with ether and this forms a concrète and absolute.^“4
On Madagascar sometimes when a steam-distillation is done for a ‘complete’ the entire distillation is done in 6-8 hours.

Yield ~ 1.5-2%. A mature tree gives 9 kilograms of fresh flowers yielding 30 grams of oil per year.

3 fractions of the oil

There is a study and work being conducted on capturing Ylang-Ylang scent by headspace technology. This is a process used to capture the odor compounds present in the air that surround an object. Once the scent is captured and analyzed, perfumers can try to recreate the scent using what they have available.

showing Ylang-Ylang plant and headspace technology — **Scent capture by headspace technology**

SUSTAINABILITY ~ Ylang-ylang seems to be sustainable at this point and several large commercial companies are working with planters and growers to maintain the healthy population of these tree flowers. They work to champion responsible sourcing and supporting the farming community.

CONTRAINDICATIONS ~ It may cause nausea and headache if overused.

ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS of some YLANG-YLANG OILS

5 Organoleptic characteristics of Ylang-Ylang oil through 8 samples

Taste Description ~ There are now six described tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami (savory) and pungent (heat and spice).

8 different fractions (types) of Ylang-Ylang oil (7 courtesy of Eden Botanicals)

ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ There is more descriptive odor information in the Blending portion of this blog post and odor snapshots at the end. I am particularly fond of the Absolute of Ylang-Ylang and the Extra that I have from 1995, and 2005. These two types of Ylang-ylang are so rich and floral, fruity with powder and honey back notes.

The absolute and the extra have deep rich color and have a very satisfying and rich fatty, floral, and a fruity odor that has great tenacity in a scent blend. The complete and the fine organic are also enjoyable with very special uses in blending and perfumery. In a blend these top fractions have unusual power in the top note, and the fragrance fades out very slowly and elegantly in a long-lasting, floral-spicy and very sweet way that is truly reminiscent of the fragrance of the flower.

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SOLUBILITY

Ylang-Ylang is not soluble in 2 volumes of 95% alcohol. That means if you add 1-volume of Ylang-Ylang to 2-volumes of alcohol it will be milky and not clear. You have to add enough alcohol as a diluent so that it is not milky. Years ago, I had a phone call from a student that the Ylang she was using was milky and not clear when she added alcohol as a diluent. I went to my Guenther books and read all about Ylang and found that it is not soluble in certain amounts of alcohol. As an experiment in July of 2002, I decided to do some various dilutions for my own knowledge and experimentation. As follows:
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang Extra plus 2 volumes of 85% Pear EtOH — milky and creamy in color …
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang Extra plus 2 volumes of 95% Grain EtOH — milky and golden in color …
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang #3 plus 2 volumes of 85% Pear EtOH — milky and creamy in color …
1 volume of Ylang -Ylang #3 plus 2 volumes of 95% Grain EtOH — milky and golden in color …

In September 2002, I mixed 20 drops of each of the four types of Ylang -Ylang with 10 or fewer drops of each of the alcohol and found that the color stayed golden in color and that the mixtures were clear.

18 hours later at 10 am on 9/7/02 – I looked at the mixtures and found that the Ylang-Ylang had settled out of the 85% EtOH and was still turbid in 95% grain EtOH. I mixed the two types of 85% EtOH and Ylang-Ylang together and watched the settling process.

Then I read Guenther again and found that if your Ylang -Ylang gets milky in alcohol it only means that you added too little or too much alcohol — it is supposed to get milky and if it doesn’t get milky then you have an adulterated Ylang -Ylang. In other words, the more alcohol you add the milkier and cloudier it gets until up to 10 volumes of 90% EtOH and it will begin to clear. [thus, you need 10 times the high-proof alcohol as a diluent with Ylang-Ylang]

Here is more information from Guenther…

“Oils obtained by steam distillation in a large distillery on Madagascar are of good quality. The relatively high specific gravity and ester number of the “3^rd” fraction prove that distillation was not “pushed” too far. Entire distillation of Ylang-Ylang lasted 12 hours….”¹ —Guenther, The Essential Oils, vol. 5, pages 297 specifically and pages 276-316.

Solubility chart

This was a great experiment.

CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Ylang-Ylang oil is very complex with many constituents including, Linaloöl, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Benzoate, B-Caryophyllene, Benzyl Acetate, Methyl Benzoate, Methyl Salicylate, Eugenol, Cresol and Terpenes such as pinene and cadinene. “The percentages are 33-38% sesquiterpenes 52-64% alcohols and esters, and 3% phenols, terpenes, aldehydes, and ketones”.⁴

HISTORICAL USES ~ Perfumery and as an aphrodisiac and anti-depressant.
Ylang-Ylang or Cananga oil is used as hairdressing and constituent of perfumery including Chanel No. 5 and others. It is often mixed with pimento oil (aka Allspice oil or Pimenta dioica). Macassar oil is often made using coconut oil or palm oil or that of Schleichera oleosa (called Kusum or Malay Lac tree), combined with Ylang-ylang oil that is obtained by processing the flowers of the Ylang-ylang tree, (Cananga odorata) and other fragrant oils.

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An old fun word is an antimacassar. The Macassar oil would transfer from the man’s hair to the back of his chair and the antimacassar was developed, that is, a small cloth like a doily or tatted fabric placed over the backs or arms of chairs, or the head or cushions of a sofa, to prevent soiling of the chair. The name also refers to the cloth flap ‘collar’ on a sailor’s shirt or top, used to keep macassar oil off the uniform.

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Macassar Oil – Hair Dressing
2 oz of Macassar Oil (Schleichera oleosa) or Argan oil
up to 1-oz of Argan oil (Argan oil, Argania spinosa), or Coconut oil
2-4 Ylang flowers
up to 10 drops Ylang oil (Use fraction #1 or the Complete)
Macerate in a bain-marie (with very warm water underneath) the Macassar oil and the flowers, until the oil has taken up the scent of the flowers. This will take 1-3 hours in a warm room.
Strain and add the other oil and the essential oil.
Let it rest. Check the scent – if subtle and sweet it is okay. If too strong, add a bit of Argan/Macassar/Coconut – whichever you prefer.
If the scent is not strong enough, next time use more flowers.
—Jeanne Rose 2012

INTERESTING FACTS ~ The fruits of the Cananga odorata are not edible. When the flowers are picked at night, they are the most fragrant and the resultant essential oil is known as the “Queen of Perfumes”. It is not well-known, but Ylang-Ylang oil is used in confectionery, enhancing fruit flavors such as peach and apricot, for candy, icings and baked goods, as well as in soft drinks and chewing gum.

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OVER the years, I have written about Ylang-Ylang and compared the various fractions of the essential oil and have noted that they are becoming less intense and different both in scent and in color. I have experienced and photographed these changes. I cannot say why these changes have occurred but since writing The Aromatherapy Book in 1992, I wrote the following. “Now we come to the de-evolution of Ylang Complete – once a rich and real whole scent that was distilled from the flowers and collected from the total distillation.” In the photograph below, you can see the color change from the rich color of 1995, to less color in 2000, to ever less color from 2005 to 2010. Again, I am assuming that the big perfume houses are getting the best, or possibly the distillers are distilling too long or maybe the 1^st fraction is removed, and the balance collected; but whatever is happening, it is not good!

4 bottles of Ylang-Ylang complete from different distillation of 2000 to 2010 showing change in color of the oil — **Ylang Complete over the years 2000-2010**

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And about Ylang-Ylang Extra: “It is amazing how Ylang-Ylang Extra has changed and de-evolved over the years with possibly the same reasons happening that growers and distillers are sending the highest quality Extra to Paris for high-end perfume or the weather is changing and messing with the flowers or the distillers are not being as discriminating as they once were to separate each fraction carefully. Look at the great diversity of color (also reflected in the scent) of Ylang-Ylang Extra from 1995 to 2005 to 2010.” This continues today. You can learn from this by reading the Aromatherapy Studies Course – http:///aromatherapy.html

Ylang-Ylang extra from 3 distillations from 1995-2010 — **Ylang Extra from 3 distillations from 1995-2010**

YLANG-YLANG GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties (by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application) ~ If you use Ylang-Ylang by application, it is antiseptic with the “second” and “thirds” fractions being antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, and antiparasitic. If you use the oil by inhalation it is somewhat aphrodisiac, calming and acts as a nervine and a sedative, antidepressant, calmative, cardiotonic, and euphoric.

Contra-Indications & Personal Note: In my own experience, most fractions of Ylang-Ylang are not cardiotonic but an accelerator of heart rhythm. Please be extra careful with this lovely perfumery oil. Do not use on children or the elderly.

YLANG-YLANG PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED ~

Application: Add a few drops in skincare products and use to soothe the skin, ease light pain or use in perfumery. Fraction #1 has often been recommended to be added to a blend to treat scabies and mange, although I have never had the opportunity to try this.

Inhalation of Ylang-Ylang: RELAX! Ylang-Ylang is used externally for bath and body and inhaled to soothe anger, relieve, pain, for insomnia, a euphoric that serves as an aphrodisiac and to treat impotence.
Use it with Lemon oil and Lavender oil to relax your blood pressure as studies have shown that this is a very effective formula. This mixture was found to be effective in lowering systolic blood pressure and sympathetic nerve system activity. The blend was 2•2•1 (Lemon/Lavender/Ylang complete) and you can read about it here.— http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157172

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Ingestion: Ylang-Ylang has been taken in the past for PMS, to regulate circulation, as a uterine tonic, aphrodisiac, and cardiotonic. However, I am not sure that the appropriate way to use these flowers is by the intake of the oil; the oil has devolved over the years (see Interesting Facts above) and from my own personal exploration and knowledge and my uses of over 45 years, the best way is simply by inhalation for relaxation and emotional soothing.

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Ylang-Ylang oil is distilled in four fractions, extra, first, second and third, extra and first fractions are used most often in perfume, second and third in soap fragrance. “Extra and third are the most important in trade. There is also a Ylang-Ylang absolute produced by solvent extraction. Distillation is traditionally carried out in rather small stills to avoid damaging the flowers with the weight of a heavy charge. With unusual power in its top note, the fragrance fades out very slowly and most elegantly in a long-lasting, floral-spicy and very sweet note, truly reminiscent of the fragrance of the flower.” It is so good in perfumery and used in soothing skincare and by inhalation, in dilution, it eases depression and soothes anger.

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Ylang is so soothing and nice –
it makes up in scent with its price –
Add to perfume –
romance will boom –
And you may end up married with rice.
—JeanneRose2017

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EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USES (AP OR IN) ~
•Inhalation: Aphrodisiac, nervousness, anti-depressant, euphoric, relieves tension, stress, irritability, and anger, cardiotonic, sedative, PMS, physical exhaustion.
•Inhalation of Ylang #1 oil as an aphrodisiac and for insomnia, to sooth aggression and very useful in a man’s product for stress.
Valerie Worwood suggests that Ylang-Ylang (fraction used unknown) be used to counteract anxiety, tension, stress and shyness among other things and then it can be used to assist self-confidence and warmth. She says the “Ylang-Ylang personality is intensely feminine”. — The Fragrant Mind, p. 398.

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ All fractions of Ylang oil can be used with other oils and used in the diffusor. It seems especially nice to mix with Lemon and true Lavender oil to soothe the atmosphere of a room.

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BLENDING and PERFUMERY ~

https://jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-perfumery/

“The top note, the first impression of the scent as it is applied to the skin, is rather fleeting and ephemeral but richly sweet and powerful. The middle and bottom notes are most lasting, fading out slowly over the course of a day.” ⁵
• All fractions of Ylang-Ylang blend well with an enormous variety of oils and resins and scents from all parts of plants, such as the seeds (Cardamom), roots (Vetivert), stems (Lavender), flowers (Jasmin), barks (Cedrus), and herbs such as Spearmint. It would do you well to know what fraction you have and try some blends before deciding on your favorite.
Personally, because I have physical issues with my heart, I am unable to use the fractions of Ylang-Ylang called I, II, or III individually. They actually make me nauseous. So, I choose the absolute or extra in my perfumery of choice.

Photo of Ylang-Ylang flowers that the author took in 1992 — **Ylang photo of flowers from Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden**
**by Jeanne Rose, 1992**

EARTHY FLORAL ROSE PERFUME
Top Note -7 drops of Bergamot, 2 drops of Rosewood,
4 drops of Rose Geranium
Bridge Note – 1 drop of Lime SD
Heart Note – 5 drops of Jasmine, 3 drops of Rose absolute,
3 drops of Ylang Extra
Bridge Note – 2 drops of Sandalwood, 2 drops of Black Pepper
Base Note – 8 drops of Patchouli and 4 drops of Vetivert
Fixative Note – 1 drop of Musk Ambrette

LECTURES & ARTICLES OF PERFUMERY

The Pharmacy of Love was a favorite talk that I gave beginning 1992 and I spoke of the power of Ylang-Ylang and other lovely scents that can be used in perfumery and for love. “…These scents included Neroli which is an essential oil from the Bitter Orange flower, Petitgrain which is from the leaves of the Bitter Orange plus Ylang-Ylang extra, using the top grade perfume essential oil from the flowers of the tropical tree, and Jasmine flower and the Atlas Cedar from the wood of Cedrus atlantica that was used in a sacred incense to invoke the gods. These were used individually and together in various parts of the wedding ritual and vows.”²

The entire article is here http:///articles/wedding_aromatic.html

“The Wedding Ritual – Essential oil worn by the bride will serve to enhance her aromatic beauty, envelop her in an aromatic aura fit for a princess, and calm her nerves! As she prepares for the exciting day, she relaxes with regular foot soaks and massages and the regular use of aromatherapy for body care. Five drops of Peppermint or Sage oil in a foot bath soothes and relieves tired feet. Ten drops of essential oil added to an ounce of unscented lotion can be used to tend the feet, or anywhere on the body. While Peppermint and Sage are good for the feet, floral oils such as Ylang-Ylang, Lavandula angustifolia, and Neroli are inhaled provide relief from jittery nerves and tension. Aromatic baths of 3-5 drops of these essential oils are swished into the tub just before stepping in to increase the efficacy of this stress-relieving time.”²

Cananga odorata hydrosol from Waiitibotanicals.com

HYDROSOL ~ I received the above two bottles of Ylang-Ylang hydrosol in October. They were distilled at the end of August from flowers harvested in the early a.m. on the island of Kauai. Distillation started before noon and lasted for 8 hours for the steam-distillation and 4 hours for the hydro-distillation. Wai’iti Botanicals values their company as a single origin botanical purveyor and started this plant from seed.

Ylang-ylang hydrosol is quite nice as a spray on the face and body. With a wee bit (1%) of Spearmint, it will bring joy and peacefulness. Spray this combination on pillows and bed linens for sweet sleep. By itself it is a calming floral aroma; added to a toner it will help combination skin or oily skin. It can also be sprayed on the hair for a light aroma. Use it after you have shampooed and rinsed, as a spray mist, and then comb it through. I have used Ylang hydrosol myself many times and have always loved this particular hydrosol. I have also seen it listed on several websites but since no information was given about how it was produced or where or when I have chosen not to purchase.

I suggest that you too, not purchase a hydrosol unless certain key bits of information are given such as when it was produced, where it was produced, who produced it, and did they follow correct distillation and sterile procedures.

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HERBAL USES ~ If you have the opportunity to obtain fresh flowers, you can “put them in a vase at home, the fragrance can last up to a month, even until flowers themselves are totally dried and shriveled.”⁴The flowers can also be infused in oil and this oil used either as a hairdressing or in massage. And of course, the flowers can be used to perfume your bath or in your hair as a decoration.

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KEY USE ~ Sexual tonic and in perfumery

YLANG-YLANG TOMATO TALES -1

Gio Costanzo, Ylang, and Champagne – Gio is a really nice friend of mine who happens to have just become single again. Geo is just learning about essential oils and became very intrigued with them when another friend of ours mentioned that they could act as ‘aphrodisiacs.’ “HOW?” was the first question asked? “Well, you can use them to make things smell really fragrant like you can put a drop or two of Eucalyptus in your sauna to make the place smell better; you could put a drop of Ylang-Ylang in your champagne and drink it with your girlfriend; you can add essential oils to the last rinse of your laundry to make your bedding smell really sweet,” was our collective response.
Several months later I found myself on a plane with him, flying to Texas for a football game, and asked about the aphrodisiac and if he had used it.
He had grabbed hold of the Ylang-Ylang in the champagne answer but hadn’t listened to the part about “a drop” and had added something like 1-drop to each glass poured from his very expensive bottle of champagne. He told me that he and his girlfriend had spent the evening together and had several glasses each of the bubbles but didn’t much like the taste and so went to bed where they promptly fell asleep. “I didn’t like it and It didn’t work very well as an aphrodisiac, but it did work to put us to sleep”.
He also told me that I had forgotten the most important part of his story that the Ylang-ylang did not make then smell good. “I thought we were going to smell good but after drinking the champagne, we smelled so bad we couldn’t stand each other in the same bed. That was the worst part of it, and you can mention that. Jeanne what we did was put a drop in every glass of champagne until we had used up all the Ylang. We hopped into bed, started getting hot sweats and then the pungent smell came over us. It was a horrid smell and we could not wash that smell away. We slept in different rooms that night because of the smell. There went that romantic night! Also bad for me on the plane the next day. That’s the way my first experience with Ylang went.”

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YLANG-YLANG TOMATO TALES -2

Ylang Dog use

a photo of Wolfie dog in 1995 — **This is the famous Wolfie Dog in 1995**

Many who have the books of Jeanne Rose, aromatherapist and author of many books concerning herbs and aromatherapy, know the story of Sumo and Wolfie. “Several books that I have written describe many natural remedies. The story of Sumo, my son Bryan Moore’s dog who was a full-grown Akita-Shepherd cross with the face of a puppy, is a lesson in natural health care. He was run over by a car and dragged along the pavement on his right side for some distance. The injury to his rear right leg was severe including severed ligaments and tendons in a 180-degree rotation around the hock joint and torn off skin and muscles. Veterinarians recommended amputation. I (Jeanne Rose) refused to allow this and treated the dog’s wounds with diluted flowering Tea Tree hydrosol (Melaleuca linariifolia) and diluted essential oils of fresh Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) and Lavender (Lavandula x intermedia var Grosso). Today there is only an almost unnoticeable scar the length of his leg and a slight limp in Sumo’s happy gait. At the same time, I used Ylang-Ylang #1 (Cananga odorata) oil in a diffuser to treat my dog, Wolfie (the beautiful blue-eyed Siberian Husky), by inhalation. She was emotionally traumatized by the terrible incident.”⁵ She also would not go outside unless attended. Ylang-Ylang #1 essential oil was added to the diffuser and Wolfie would get up and lie down nearer to the diffuser at times during the day and then go back to her bed. When Sumo came home, she was much more at ease. Wolfie was also thrown by the same car and hit her rear hip that later in life developed a spindle cell tumor. However, both dogs lived past their 16^th birthday.”.

Warning -do not trap a dog near a diffuser without a way for it to move away. Some odors are just too strong for a dog’s sensitive sense of smell.

a bottle with scent arising — **Scent Rising up**

Science article ~ Safety assessment of Ylang–Ylang (Cananga spp.) as a food ingredient
George A. Burdock, Ioana Carabin. From Food and Chemical Toxicology, vol. 46, issue 2, February 2008, pg. 433-445.

Abstract. Ylang–Ylang oil is used in the food industry as a flavor ingredient. It is a complex chemical mixture in the form of essential oil extracted by water or water-and-steam distillation from the fresh flowers of Cananga odorata Hook. f. & Thomson. Ylang–Ylang oil has been reported to cause dermal sensitization reactions in animals and humans, but it is unclear what constituent(s) within the essential oil comprise the offending agent(s) and whether some Ylang–Ylang oils that have had certain constituent(s) removed are any less prone to cause such allergic reactions. There is no indication in the literature that food exposure to Ylang–Ylang oil has caused allergic reactions. One subchronic inhalation toxicity study, involving Ylang–Ylang oil as part of a larger fragrance raw materials mixture, gave no indication of causing adverse effects, but the relevance to risk assessment of oral food flavoring use exposures is likely minimal. No further toxicity data for Ylang–Ylang oil have been reported. Notwithstanding the foregoing, Ylang–Ylang oil has a long history of fragrance and food flavoring use, with no indication that its estimated consumption from food flavoring use (0.0001 mg/kg/day) has led to any adverse human health effects. These data indicate that at the current level of intake as a food ingredient, Ylang–Ylang oil does not pose a health risk to humans.

References:
¹Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume 5, pages 267-316.
²http:///articles/wedding_aromatic.html
³ A history of Cananga (Annonaceae). IM Turner, J.F. Veldkamp. Gard.Bull.Singapore, 2009- nparks.gov.sg
⁴Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols
⁵Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.

Alpharnd@aol.com. Nadim Shaath. www.alpharnd.com
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol
I.M. Turner and J.F. Veldkamp.A History of Cananga (Annonaceae). Gardens’ Bulletin Singapore 61 (1): 189-204. 2009
Mabberley, D.J. Mabberley’s Plant Book. 2008 3rd Edition with 2014 updates. Cambridge University Press
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols. /books.html
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.

Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.

ODOR SNAPSHOTS

Odor snapshot of YY Abs & Extra

Odor Snapshot of YY Complete & Organic Fine

Safety considerations — **Safety Considerations**

Many thanks to the companies who have wholeheartedly supported aromatherapy education and this blog with samples, essential oils, and GC/MS. Especially to EdenBotanicals.com

Photo of Ylang-Ylang flowers from Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden by Jeanne Rose 1992 — **Ylang photo of flowers from Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden by Jeanne Rose 1992**

CITRUS & MORE

Sep11

Citrus are favorite fruit trees and their essential oils perform in many formulas, therapeutics and blends — they are widely grown and healing to mind and body.

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CITRUS & ODD CITRUS

Written and Collected by Jeanne Rose – Sept. 2019

INTRODUCTION ~ There are many types of citrus that are grown all over the world. Many are very familiar and during this past year, since January 2019, I have covered all the major essential oil citrus plants, (January – Bergamot; February – Grapefruit; March – Lemon; April – Lime; May – Mandarin/tangerine; June – Neroli/Bitter Orange; July – Orange/Blood Orange; August – Petitgrain), I have missed others such as Pomelo from Vietnam, Buddha Hand, Lemonade tree, Yuzu, Kumquat and probably others. These latter do not have a strong presence in the essential oil industry. But it is time to give them a paragraph or two.

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CITRUS FAMILY ~ RUTACEAE
The citrus are in the family Rutaceae, commonly known as the rue or citrus family of flowering plants. Species of the family generally have flowers that divide into four or five parts, usually with strong scents. They range in form and size from herbs to shrubs and large trees.

CITRUS FAMILY TIES ~
The parents of each of the types of citrus can be very confusing and if you want to have a fine time scrambling your brains look at the incestuous crosses, back crossing, mutations, aberrations, speciation events, hybrids, genetic mixings, varieties, groups or outgroups, rootstock changes and terroir effects of the many Citrus types to understand the various citrus fruits, we have now.
For example, Bergamot parentage is 3rd generation from the original citrus species with Lemon and Bitter Orange as the male and female parent but each of those are also 2^nd generation. The Grapefruit group of citrus originates from a back cross of C. paradisi with a female of C. maxima (Pomelo) and a more up-to-date Latin binomial is Citrus x aurantium. The parents of the ‘Mexican Lime are C. micrantha and C. medica and then the Mexican Lime crossed with Lemon gives the ‘Tahiti’ Lime (C. x latifolia). Neroli, Citrus x aurantium L, also called C. amara, C. aurantium ssp. Amara. It Is a cross between Citron and of C. reticulata (Mandarin) + C. maxima (Pomelo) as the female parent. Mandarin can be called Citrus reticulata var. mandarina and Tangerine can be called Citrus reticulata var. tangerina. Mandarin has also been called var. deliciosa and of course it has other names as well.

The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross, probably infertile as well, and in the case of ‘Bitter Orange’, several types of Citrus were crossed to obtain this plant. There are many backcrosses in this group of Bitter Orange/Neroli.

There is a naming problem in citrus, and it is complicated by the number of edible citrus that are recognized plus the many crosses, back-crosses, rootstock clones, hybrids, species, subspecies and varieties. “The taxonomy of the citrus fruits is complicated by hybridity and apomixis (asexual reproduction in plants), with many stable hybrid lines being accorded species status, so that the number of edible species recognized in the genus Citrus L. … varies from 1 to 162”.¹Anywhere from 12 up to 162 different ones are accorded subspecies or varietal names.

Some Citrus Parentage

Citrus Family Ties ~https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Citrus_hybrids.svg

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CITRUS COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS AND HISTORY ~ There is a wide range of study of where and how the diverse group of Citrus developed or are indigenous. They are now naturalized worldwide. For instance, Guenther mentions that Lime is probably a native of the East Indian Archipelago and then brought to the Asiatic mainland and on to tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Lime was brought to Europe by the Arabs. Citron, with a primary lineage, was called ‘the fruit of Persia’ and in 327 BC, Alexander the Great defeated this area and the Greeks found Citron there under cultivation. For more extensive information on country of origin of citrus, read volume 3, of The Essential Oils by Guenther OR “Citrus edited by Giovanni Dugo and Angelo Giacomo, 2002”.

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CITRUS ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ There are so many kinds of citrus in so many parts of the world that at this time the citrus fruits, juices, cold-pressed peel oil and EO are not endangered.

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CITRUS GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ Citrus is grown in tropical and subtropical areas, including various southern areas in the southern USA. They are found in sunny, warm areas throughout the world. The tree is a small evergreen tree, somewhat cold-hardy and tolerant of drought.

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CITRUS. Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields ~ The leaf, flower, peel of various citrus are either cold-pressed (CP) or steam-distilled (SD) depending on the type of scent you wish. Lime peel and other citrus peels is not phototoxic when SD but is when CP. Yields are listed in the original articles on this blog.

Citrus Decorative Slice

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CITRUS CHEMISTRY

Here is probably where you want to review volume III of Guenther’s The Essential Oils because here is where you will find 359 pages discussing each of the citrus oils and the equipment used to cold-press or steam-distill them as well as their production, and various areas where these citrus oils are grown and individual articles on chemistry and background.

THE STORY OF LIMONENE ~ Chemical Components ~ Limonene

Limonene Story was edited by Hubert Marceau who is at www.phytochemia.com

“Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the distilled essential oil and in the cold-pressed oil of citrus peel [NOTE: if you are talking about the seed oils, that is something else.] But limonene is present in the cold pressed oil from the rind and in the distilled essential oil.”

There are two isomers of limonene. Each have at least 30 different names. They are most easily identified by the R or S type. 4(R)-limonene ) (+)-Limonene) and 4(S)-limonene. Alternative prefixes to label optical isomers include ‘ d ’ and ‘l’ and more commonly the symbols + and – are used.

“The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it can be found in nature as one of the two enantiomers mentioned above, the (R)- and (S)-limonene. The R isomer has the characteristic sweet smell of oranges while the S isomer has a more smell like a piney turpentine.”

D-limonene ((+)-limonene), which is the (R)-enantiomer d-limonene is (+)-Limonene and D-LIMONENE is a colorless, clear, mobile liquid with a pleasant sweet odor as in mandarin & orange. There is the L-LIMONENE, (-)-Limonene, S)-(−)-Limonene or sinistral or left enantiomer. Lime and lemon is (S)- smells like the sour of lemons.

Limonene Right and Left

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contraindications — **Contraindications**

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CITRUS VARIETIES NOT YET DISCUSSED

BUDDHA HAND CITRUS ~ C. medica var. sarcodactylus. The fingered Buddha’s hand, is a bizarre looking citrus, an elongated fruit about 6 inches long with many vertical indentations on the peel that make this yellow-colored fruit look like a hand. It has a thick peel used to flavor distillates, liquors or the peel is candied and used in cooking and in various baked goods. It is wonderful infused in vodka to make a delicious base for a cocktail. This citrus can also be chopped and infused in neutral grape or orange spirits (https://organicalcohol.com/) and used as a citrus fixative in perfumery or in citrus accords or as a diluent for fine perfumes. The fruit is also used fresh or dried in clothing closets to fragrance clothing or stored items. (if used fresh it must be removed after a week or two or it will mold). This fruit is mostly peel and is candied and eaten or used to flavor vodka and other high alcohol beverages.

It is an ornamental tree in the garden, the fruit contains no pulp and no juice, and the zest is used in desserts, or candied as a sweet. Possession of the fruit or a tree “is believed to bring good health and to symbolize wealth. The Chinese character for “hand” (shou) sounds like that for “longevity” and so the two are associated. In resembling the classic prayer position of Buddha’s hand, the long fruit fingers connote Buddhism.”.

Buddha Hand Citrus – June 2019

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CITRON or ETROG ~ Citrus medica, one of the five pure citrus species, male parent with female Bitter Orange to produce the Lemon, is also called ‘Etrog,’ or cedrat and used on certain Jewish holidays. There are also specific names based on its various shapes. An etrog is a citron that looks mostly like a misshapen lemon but smells delicious; it is a fragrant citrus fruit, consists of a dry pulp and only a small quantity of juice. The branches and fruit are waved each day on Sukkot, except on Shabbat, in a specific manner for a variety of reasons. I do not know much about the Citron except that it is important on Jewish holidays and based from ancient studies, the citron was used mainly for medicinal purposes. It was greatly used to fight seasickness, intestinal problems, pulmonary illnesses, and other illness.

I use the Citron by taking the most fragrant part of the outer peel (flavedo or exocarp) and removing any unscented part of the albedo (white part), place in jar and cover with 95% neutral grape spirits. I imagine you could also use the 95% neutral orange spirits for a stronger odor. After a few weeks, I strain out the alcohol and either add more peel or just label the container and use it as part of the diluent of a perfume.

**Etrog photo by Jeanne Rose March 2019**

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KUMQUAT ~ Citrus japonica. This is a small fruit-bearing tree with a small large olive-shaped fruit that can be eaten when ripe, peel and all. They are native to south Asia and were introduced to Europe about 1846 by Robert Fortune. The originally given Latin name was Fortunella japonica. I am not familiar with the essential oil, but Wikipedia says, “The essential oil of the kumquat peel contains much of the aroma of the fruit and is composed principally of limonene which makes up around 93% of the total.Besides limonene and alpha-pinene (0.34%), both of which are considered monoterpenes, the oil is unusually rich (0.38% total) in sesquiterpenes such as a-bergamotene (0.21%), caryophyllene 0.18%), (bergamotene α-humulene (0.07%) and α-muurolene (0.06%), and these contribute to the spicy and woody flavor of the fruit.”

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LEMONADE TREE ~ The correct name is Citrus x limon unless it is a Mandarin or tangerine and then would be Citrus reticulata. Of course, it also could be (Citrus limon x reticulata) and this is a cross between a lemon tree and a mandarin tree that was developed in Australia but was first found in New Zealand in the 1980s. The fruit is sweet like a Mandarin but with a citrusy lemon bite like a Lemon. You can pick and eat the fruit off the tree like an Orange.

Lemonade Tree – photo courtesy of Cheryl Brighton Smith

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LIMETTA ~ Citrus limetta, alternatively considered to be a cultivar of Citrus limon, C. limon ‘Limetta’, is a species of citrus, commonly known as mousambi, musambi, sweet lime, sweet lemon, and sweet limetta, it is a member of the sweet lemons.⁵ It is a cross between the citron and a bitter Orange. In France, this variety is known as ‘a Mamelon’ that describes the nipple shape of the end of the fruit. The juice and peel are both used. A sweet lemon is not an oxymoron. Neither is it a new fancy hybrid. Persian limu shirin, Citrus limetta, is one of the oldest cultivated varieties of lemons and it tastes sweet like honey, with no hint of acidity. “The first time I bit into a slice was a shock, because I was prepared for tartness and instead my mouth was filled with sweetness. Even more beautiful was the scent of the peel that lingered on my fingers. It also smelled like no lemon I had tried before.” This is a lovely quote from January 28, 2019 by Victoria, “…The best way to enjoy sweet lemons is to make a glass of juice and drink it over ice. No sugar or any other flavorings are needed. The juice has the interesting property of turning pleasantly bitter as it oxidizes, becoming reminiscent of sweetened grapefruit juice. In France, this variety is known as ‘a Mamelon’ that aptly describes the shape of the end of the fruit. Juice & peel used ….” —January 28,2019, Essays on Flavor and Fragrance, Food & Fragrance, Perfume 101.

fruits of the Limetta — **Limetta fruit**

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POMELO ~ Citrus maxima or pamplemousse. This is another large original form of citrus that is eaten and in Vietnam, the peel is steam-distilled for the oil. When I wrote the blogpost on Grapefruit in February 2019, I only briefly mentioned the Pomelo. I was written too by (Yen Ta) and she mentioned that I had not said much about Pomelo. I knew of it and had seen the fruit in the market but had never experienced the oil. In August, I received this bottle of steam distilled EO from Vietnam via Yen Ta and am now able to discuss it. Pomelo peel SD is colorless, clear, non-viscous, of low intensity, and bitter aromatic taste. Its odor is very mildly citrus, with herbaceous afternotes. I have used it in a citrus accord as well as making some bases with it for perfumery purposes.

Pomelo rind is used to control coughs and as an expectorant. Pomelo peel extract has also been studied in mice to prevent high-fat diet-induced metabolic disorders. Since it is related to Grapefruit as one of Grapefruits primary parents, it shares common furanocoumarins (because of the potential for furanocoumarins to increase the bloodstream concentration of a drug to higher than expected, it can lead to unfortunate consequences), and thus should not be taken with heart medications. Steam-distilled Pomelo peel when used externally does not cause sun toxicity.

White fleshed Pomelo is milder in acidity than the red-fleshed. Pomelo when analyzed by GCMS has been found to contain up to 62% d-limonene, anethol to 9.5% and nootketone to 5.6%. Supercritical CO₂extraction has been done on Pomelo flower and analyzed and Pomelo CO₂can be used in perfumery and other uses now being examined.

Pomelo fruit and the essential oil

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YUZU ~ Citrus junos Sieb ex Tanaka – it is well-known and very popular in Japan and Korea and has been in use for about 1000 years. It is used in the cuisine of Japan and in cosmetics. I have had the opportunity to taste it here (San Francisco) at various restaurants in salad dressings and in desserts. However, for people taking certain medications, one should limit their ingestion of this food.

There are many cultivars of this plant and the essential oils from the peel have been examined for at least six of the cultivars. These are acidic citrus from China that are often grown as (strong, resistant) rootstock for other citrus varieties and for its fruit. The fruits are acidic and moderately juicy with a very pleasant citrus aroma and can be used as a lemon substitute. The peel is strongly citrus and pleasantly scented and makes a good addition to blends and in perfumery. If making a Citrus scent, adding 5% of Yuzu to a base note increases the sweet-tart scent of the entire perfume. The scent is very refreshing.

Yuzu fruit in Dec. 2008 and Yuzu oil courtesy of Eden Botanicals — **Yuzu – December 2008 – Yuzu oil courtesy of Eden Botanicals**

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CITRUS OIL – ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS

Sensory characteristics of the volatile oil of citrus — •

ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Citrus Notes ~ Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They can be used in up to 25% as the base scent for classic type of eau de cologne. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes. >In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender which is an 1826 creation. High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also, of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.

GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties and Uses~ Some of the citrus oils are relaxing and most are very enlivening. They are calming but do not cause lethargy or fatigue. In general, these oils are slightly antiseptic, ease gut spasm (antispasmodic), can be slight diuretics, purifying (depurative), ease stomach aches, cholagogue (promotes the discharge of bile); and when inhaled can be calming but not exhausting; and in skin care or by external application in products have antiseptic properties.

Physical Uses & How Used ~
Application (AP) – Citrus oils go nicely into many blends that are used for skincare. It would be a top note or heart note to other aromatic oils in natural perfumery and blends well with many. In lotions and creams, they have a slight antiseptic quality as well as the aromatic livening scent.

Ingestion (IG) – Do not drink the essential oils. Drink the juice instead or dry and keep the peels for your bath and potpourri.Inhalation (IN) – Citrus oils are generally relaxing but not tiring by inhalation , especially when mixed with some of your other favorites such as Lavender, Spikenard, Jasmine, and many more.

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SKIN CARE FORMULAS are available in my 350-page Herbal Body Book that is chock-full of great skin, hair, and body care formulas. Here is one I have always enjoyed. They can add nuance to any blend or perfume.

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A CITRUS MASK BY JEANNE ROSE

The San Clemente Citrus Mask. Peel a small orange, a small Lemon, or other citrus, and mash the pulp, or else put the pulp into a blender and blend. Add enough yellow Corneal to make gritty. Apply to your clean slightly moistened face or body. Let the mask stay for a few minutes. If you have collected the juices separately, add them to steaming water and steam your face for a minute. Roll of the gritty citrus meal with your fingers for a gentle exfoliation. Rinse off the mask with tepid water or take a shower and rinse off the mask or use the gritty Citrus/Cornmeal as a scrub to also exfoliate your legs and arms. Dry and apply a citrus hydrosol spray to finish.

There are many ways to use this mask and it will leave your skin very fresh and clean. Use it when you are fatigued and to prevent aging. The San Clemente Mask reminded my husband of hot supermarkets and parking lots; so, when your feet are hot and your eyeballs feel like they are falling out of your face from the heat, apply the San Clemente Orange and you will feel better. [see p. 190 of for more].

The San Clemente Mask reminded my husband of hot supermarkets and parking lots; so, when your feet are hot and your eyeballs feel like they are falling out of your face from the heat, apply the San Clemente Orange and you will feel better . [see p. 190 of 350-page for more]

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Diffuse/Diffusion ~ You can pretty much mix and match your citrus oils any way you wish with other Mediterranean type oils or florals. Pick the effect and choose your oil. Look at the citrus blogposts already posted for many uses and blends. I have already written about Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Tangerine, Orange, Bitter Orange, Neroli and Petitgrain.

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Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN) ~ Inhale the citrus oils to combat apathy, to stimulate appetite, to increase creativity, to improve mood, to give joy, to refresh your life. Remember them when you are depressed, exhausted and need emotional healing. All the citrus oils have a joyful sunny quality to them.

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FORMULA for Physical Use by Inhalation ~ Get your oils and using Lavender, Lemon, and YlangYlang, it was found that this aromatherapy oil combination is effective in lowering systolic blood pressure and sympathetic nerve system activity. The blend was 2-2-1 and you can read about it here. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157172

Ylang flowers and essential oils of Lemon, Lavender and Ylang courtesy of Eden Botanicals.

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BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Blending with citrus oils is very easy. It is almost impossible to make a mistake. Know what you want to do, pick the correct citrus for the effect and then make a few samples to scent and try. Mix with Rosemary, Vetivert, Cloves, Caraway; or herbs, roots, flower buds and seeds. Use the charts in Chapter 1 of and The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations to make your selection of the oil and the application.

EAU DE COLOGNE

The best is made with a variety of citrus scents with added Rosemary. There are many ways to make this cologne. George W. Askinson, Dr. of Chem. in 1865, said, “Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary and Neroli to the distillate. Dissolve the aromatics in 95% neutral grape spirits — distill — add the Neroli and the Rosemary.” Effect the dilution required with Orange flower water or Rose water. Ultimately, Eau de cologne is 75% fragrant alcohol and 25% water or flower water.

Here is one recipe, and Orange spirits can be substituted at the end for some of the Grape spirits. You can adjust the ingredients up and down as you see fit.

1 quart (85-95%) Grape spirits (substitute some orange Spirits for some of the grape)
4 ml Orange peel CP
2 ml Bergamot peel CP
½ ml Bitter Orange CP
½ ml Neroli petal EO
2 ml Rosemary EO
You can also make it of Corn spirit which has a distinct aroma difference from the grape spirit. I use OrganicAlcohol.com

4 bottles of alcohol for perfumery or tincture — **4 kinds of 95% neutral spirits for perfumery or tincture**

The difference between eau de Cologne made in France or made in England is the difference in the spirit used and results in a completely different odor. Fine perfumes should only be made with freshly distilled 70-95% neutral grape spirits.

All the older perfumes were diluted down with neutral grape spirits. Originally, they were considered medicines and were taken internally by the drop. After the introduction of synthetics, around 1850, perfumes were made with chemicalized ingredients and were no longer edible. However, even today certain uplifting ‘spirits’ are sold in Europe as a tonic against seasickness, carsickness and all sorts of nausea.

“The original eau de cologne was invented in 1709 by a man named Farina who was homesick for his home country of Italy. He described the scent and said it reminded him of a spring morning with mountain daffodils and the orange blossoms after a rain.” ⁷

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HYDROSOL ~ I truly love all of the citrus hydrosols. I use them for everything. I found that a well-distilled Lemon peel hydrosol was great for itchy eyes as a wash. I have used Neroli hydrosol as a perfume, Orange hydrosol to spray my house at Christmas and so many other uses. Read the individual blogposts for using the citrus hydrosol. My favorite places to purchase citrus hydrosols is from people who live where the citrus grow and that includes LancasterCreations.com as they are an organic apothecary and community in the growing heart of California and near the ancient Sequoias of the Sierras.

**Yuzu Hydrosol by Positively Aromatic – EO**

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CITRUS LEAF DISTILLATE TOMATO TALE

In September 2019, the citrus leaves arrived. I opened them, examined the leaves and noticed they were covered with dust; the leaves were absolutely covered with whatever comes out of the sky. So, I carefully washed and cleaned every one of them by hand. Then had a good whiff and enjoyed the odor. If you want Petitgrain hydrosol you will have to get leaves ONLY from an area that is out of the pollution and somewhere where the air is clean, and the citrus is organically grown.

The only other time I have ever seen leaves so dirty and musty like this is when I was taken to an abandoned Orange grove in Los Angeles that was at the center of a confluence of interstate freeways and in the smog — my Distillation class and I picked leaves individually, washed, wiped, dried, cleaned each one before we did the distillation. When we were done, we passed the hydrosol around just for the smelling but then poured it away, back onto the ground under the trees. I know there are organic farms in the California foothills, such as the Olsen Farm, where you could pick organically grown citrus leaves that are not encrusted with pollutants. I worry about people and their children that are inhaling these pollutants every day. I hope that people think about this and take some sort of protective herbs for lungs and on the skin and do not pick and use any plant product that is not organically grown and sustainable.

Citrus leaves

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CITRUS INTERESTING INFORMATION ~

THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS

“Lemon and Orange oils even improve after a year or two of cold storage in that some of the dissolved waxes separate from the oil and may be removed easily by filtration. The resulting oils are more soluble and produce clearer extracts. Neither odor nor flavor is impaired if the oils are kept in tin-lined fully filled drums.”⁶

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ABSTRACT/SCIENTIFIC DATA: Antifungal activity of natural and modified flavonoids isolated from citrus species. By Salas, et al. … Abstract. The antifungal activity of isolated flavonoids from Citrus species, such as naringin, hesperidin and neohesperidin, and enzymatically modified derivatives of these compounds, was studied on four fungi often found as food contaminants: Aspergillus parasiticus, A. flavus, Fusarium semitectum and Penicillium expansum. Although all the flavonoids showed antifungal activity, the intensity of this activity depended on the type of fungus and compound used. The hesperetin glucoside laurate strongly inhibited the mycelial growth of P. expansum, while prunin decanoate was the most inhibiting flavonoid for A. flavus, A. parasiticus, and F. semitectum. The flavonoids naringin, hesperidin and neohesperidin, obtained as byproducts at low cost from the residues of the citrus industries, present an interesting option for these industries. — Food Chemistry, Vol. 124, issue 4, 15 February 2011, pages 1411-1415.

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KEY USE ~ Citrus peels, leaves, flowers are used for scent and the flesh is used for food and ritual.

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Citrus Limerick (2019)
Citrus fruit is delicious to eat
The taste is fine and cannot be beat.
Bright and sunny
Just like honey
Citrus fruit is better than meat.

Rising up

CITRUS TOMATO TALE FROM 1961-1963

Years ago, in 1961-1963, I lived in the middle of an Orange grove, in a sweet white farm-style house with high ceilings and ceiling fans, lots of windows where the breezes could blow through with the scent of oranges and citrus flowers. I lived there with my husband and my blue Great Dane dog George. George later became an important figure in my rock and roll world and was eventually photographed for the cover of an album as well as the centerpiece of a photograph that included fashion I had designed and the models wearing them including Janis Joplin. But our lives started here in the middle of a fragrant orange grove.

I had a big square white bedroom with a ceiling fan and right outside the bedroom window was a large citrus tree that had had grafted onto its trunk various varieties of citrus. This tree depending upon the season was an orange tree, lime tree, lemon tree, grapefruit tree or one other variety that I have forgotten. Part of it was always in bloom, and it always scented up the dark humid Florida nights. Those were the days of no cell phones, little to no TV, and those quiet dark nights amongst the trees and the divine scent of citrus flowers. Eating fresh citrus every day and smelling those luscious flowers in the evening was the best part of my time living in Florida. I wonder if the sweet scent still lingers and the quiet can still be found there in the night.

Eventually, George and I, jumped into my red Comet station wagon with all our belongings and made a 6-week rambling journey across the United States to come home to California and start the next phase of life in Big Sur, CA.

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References ~
¹ A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, unknown date
²https://www.popoptiq.com/types-of-lemons/
³ Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
⁴ Employment of a new strategy for identification of lemon (Citrus limon L.) cultivars using RAPD markers. Q Mu, X Sun, G Zhong, X Wang… – African Journal, 2012 – academicjournals.org
⁵Pharmacogn Rev. 2016 Jul-Dec; 10(20): 118–122.doi: 10.4103/0973-7847.194043. Anticancer Activity of Key Lime, Citrus aurantifolia by Nithithep Narang and Wannee Jiraungkoorskul
⁶Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume III.Krieger. 1974
⁷http://www.cologneboutique.com/the-history-behind-eau-de-cologne/

Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Citrus_hybrids.svg

Pomelo essential oil provided by tahaiyen@gmail.com
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, CA.
Rose, Jeanne. , San Francisco, CA 2000 from 1976. The best and most complete.
Rose, Jeanne. Kitchen Cosmetics. San Francisco, CA.

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PETITGRAIN EO & HYDROSOL

Aug15

Leaves of Orange and bottles of Petitgrain essential oil — **Petitgrain Combava, Petitgrain sur Fleur, Petitgrain Bitter and leaves. Leaves courtesy of April Leona Lancaster from California-grown citrus.**

Petitgrain — Petitgrain EO is an Essential Oil and not a species; leaves and twigs from any citrus when distilled are called Petitgrain (small fruit) and depending on terroir the scent is different. Includes formulas and recipes.

PETITGRAIN EO &. HYDROSOL
By Jeanne Rose ~ 8-17-19

PETITGRAIN EO — COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Petitgrain is the name of an essential oil and is not a plant species, it is the results of distilling the leaves and twigs of citrus and can be made from any citrus. It is particularly Petitgrain Bigarade from Citrus x aurantium, that is, the leaves and twigs of the bitter Orange. Normally, it is from Citrus x aurantium (L.) but you can also have Lemon Petitgrain, Combava petitgrain, Orange Petitgrain, Mandarin Petitgrain or any kind of petitgrain.

Family: Rutaceae (the Rutaceae are a family, commonly known as the rue or citrus family, of flowering plants, usually placed in the order Sapindales. Species of the family generally have flowers that divide into four or five parts, usually with strong scents. They range in form and size from herbs to shrubs and large trees.)

Petitgrain EO — Other Common Name/Naming Information ~ Originally, Petitgrain which means “small fruit” was distilled from the immature and small round green fruits of the bitter Orange and the leaves. Originally only that which was distilled in France from the true bitter Orange could be called Petitgrain but eventually when Paraguay began to produce up to 70% of the world’s supply, any citrus leaf and twig could be called petitgrain. Of course, if you distill the fruits then there will be no mature fruit to eat or preserve. So eventually, the distillation was limited to the leaves and small branchlets, but the oil is still called Petitgrain.
Blossoms of the true bitter (sour) orange tree, Citrus x aurantium Linnaeus, subsp. amara L., on being distilled yield Neroli bigarade oil. If, on the other hand, the leaves and petioles (leaf stalk) are distilled, oil and hydrosol of Petitgrain bigarade is obtained and if you cold-press the rind then it is called Bitter Orange oil.

Petitgrain EO and hydrosol is thus produced from the Bitter Orange tree after the harvest of the flowers (for Neroli); leaves and stalks are freshly picked from July to October and freshly and immediately distilled for the best product. It should be emphasized that American producers wishing to produce Petitgrain oil and hydrosol be very careful as to the citrus variety they use, time of harvesting and the type of distillation.

PETITGRAIN EO — GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ Citrus is grown in tropical and subtropical areas, including various southern areas in the southern USA. They are found in sunny, warm areas throughout the world. The tree is a small evergreen tree, somewhat cold-hardy and tolerant of drought, but if it is Mandarin Petitgrain, then know that the fruit itself is very delicate and sensitive to the cold. Citrus blooms in winter months and produces small green fruits in spring while fruits ripen in fall. It grows in soil with a pH of 6 to 8. They do not, however, grow well in soils with high salt content. Leaves are harvested late June to October for distillation.

PORTION OF THE PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS ~ Petitgrain is produced by steam distilling the leaves and small branches of certain citrus trees after the fruit is harvested. The most important of the Petitgrain oils comes from the Bitter Orange tree. Paraguay is a big producer of Petitgrain from citrus trees gone wild since 1877. Higher quality Petitgrain comes from France and Italy, sometimes Egypt and Morocco.
True Petitgrain EO and hydrosol should originate exclusively from the true bitter Orange tree. These distillations show that the oil will have a relatively high laevorotation and the presence of leaves from sweet Orange trees will result in oils of lower laevorotation, or even dextrorotation. (See Orange blog post at jeanne-blog.com)

The Petitgrain is distilled from the leaves and twiglets when the fruit is pea-sized.

The quality of Petitgrain depends on various factors:
1. The leaf material should originate exclusively from the bitter or sour Orange tree.
2. The leaf material should not contain any wooden branches, nor any small unripe fruit (despite the name and although it was the original Petitgrain).
3. The leaf material should be distilled rapidly and with direct steam that is generated in a separate boiler. The leaves must not be immersed in water, as this will cause hydrolysis of the linalyl acetate which is the most important constituent. Properly distilled the oil and hydrosol will have a high ester content.
4. The plants of Southern France bloom in May and June and these flowers used for Neroli production. While the leaves and petioles for Petitgrain are harvested from the pruning after the Neroli harvest which is from late June to October

Yields ~ are 0.25-0.5%.

PETITGRAIN COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~: Oil of Petitgrain was originally distilled in Paraguay and is now also distilled in Egypt, France, Italy, Morocco, USA. However, in Paraguay the plant that is distilled is a hybrid of the sweet and the bitter Orange that has gone wild and thus the oil and hydrosol is considered to be of lower quality. Main producing areas are the Mediterranean countries of Italy, Corsica, Sicily, etc. and California, Florida and South America, each of these countries produce citrus oils that are organoleptically identifiable.

Black and white photos of gathering bitter Orange leaves in 1919. From Scientific American — **Gathering Leaves**

Gathering Bitter Orange leaves in 1919. Pictures from 1919 Scientific American of the
Gathering of the leaves of the bitter-orange. For Petitgrain Scent

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EDEN BOTANICALS HARVEST LOCATION ~ Egypt and Morocco

ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ Not Currently

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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS

**Petitgrain Oils – Oils courtesy of Alpha Research and Eden Botanicals**

Petitgrain oils. See the different colors of the oil that are available.

ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Petitgrain has a strong, bitter-sweet, floral and somewhat woody odor, sometimes vegetative (not-pleasant), dry and a bit leathery. The woody smell is from the sesquiterpene alcohol, spathulenol. Aldehydes contribute to the odorous principle, even though they are in small amounts. Another important constituent is the pyrazines with their Galbanum-like green notes. It is important to mention that the trace components in Petitgrain leads to a good scent and especially in perfumery where they are important or when

the scent needs to be reconstituted. Petitgrain bigarade is used in perfumes for its refreshing, sweet-floral notes and often as a substitute for Neroli.

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Learn to Smell and Detect Odor: Limbic system is the seat of memory and learning. Smell from left nostril and then to right nostril. The right nostril (right brain-creative) is important in detecting and evaluating the intensity of odor, and this hints at a broad olfactory asymmetry and the left nostril (left brain or logical) is for smelling location or place.

First Smell and 2^nd Smell: “Lurking in the olfactory epithelium, among the mucus-exuding cells, are cells that are part of the system that innervates the face (trigeminal nerve). It is suspected that pungent and putrid molecules penetrate them, interact with their proteins, and stimulate them to fire. Thus, there are two types of olfaction: first smell, the ordinary type for specific odors, and second smell for nonspecific pungency and putridity.”

There is also left brain and right brain smell-ability. Left brain smells location (maybe via logical use of EMG waves) while right brain smells intensity. The closer you get – the more intense the odor.

Symbol of perfume rising up — **Rising Up**

[see the Circular Vocabulary of Odor© at the end for an analyses of Petitgrain sampled]

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CHEMISTRY COMPONENTS OF PETITGRAIN ~ 80% of the yield is made up of linalyl acetate and linaloöl in a proportion of 2:1. The woody smell is from the sesquiterpene alcohol, spathulenol. Aldehydes contribute to the odorous principle, even though they are in small amounts. Another important constituent is the pyrazines with their Galbanum-like green notes. It is important to mention that the trace components in Petitgrain leads to a good scent and especially in perfumery where they are important. The best Petitgrain is distilled from Bitter Orange leaves with noted laevorotation of the molecule, that lovely sour smell that is so fragrant, and not from sweet Oranges where the oil will have a dextro- (sweet) rotation and thus a different odor.

Physiochemical Properties: The quality of Petitgrain oil can be evaluated by its physicochemical properties. Here are the properties of genuine Petitgrain distilled in Southern France as outlined in Guenther’s work. …

Comparison of Main Components: The high amount of ester in the form of linalyl acetate lends the fruity odor to the oil while various amounts of the other components lend the personality to each of the different types of Petitgrain. Chemical Components are 80% made up of linalyl acetate and linaloöl in a proportion of 2:1 and limonene, dipentene, citral and others.

Linalyl Acetate chemical molecule

Solubility of Petitgrain Bigarade ~ Soluble in 2.8 to 4.5 volumes of 70% alcohol, rarely with opalescence, but often with some precipitation. — Guenther

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GENERAL PROPERTIES of PETITGRAIN

Antispasmodic, tonic and astringent

Properties and Uses of Petitgrain ~ Inhaled to ease the nervous system and soothe nerves that stimulate the muscles; used in skin care properties for excessive acne, to reduce excessive perspiration and in shampoo and soap for greasy hair and skin. It is a great toner to all body care products. Wonderful in woody or fougére perfumes.

Can be used as part of an aphid insecticide. Natural essential oils such as coriander oil and petitgrain oil may be useful in the control of foxglove aphid (A. solani). After application of these oils mortality of the pest was significant and amounted to 81.20-99.47% and 89.80-99.50%, respectively (72 hours after treatment).

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What does Jeanne Rose use this EO for? I like to take a tablespoon of unscented cleanser or oil and add 1 drop of Petitgrain EO, especially the low-intensity Petitgrain oil, such as Bigerade and mix these and apply to my skin. Then I take a warm washcloth and touch it to my face to warm the skin, and then rinse, rinse, rinse with warm water. My skin feels clean and ready for the day.

Application/ Skincare: A useful antiseptic, it kills bacteria on the skin and works well in cleansers. It can leave the skin feeling clean and reduces acne.

a Jeanne Rose Recipe for Aftershave Therapy for Men

4 drops of Lavender oil
4 drops of Bergamot
4 drops of Petitgrain
3 drops of Atlas Cedar oil
Make your synergy and succuss.
Dilute to your specifications or as follows, Add 90 drops carrier oil, lotion or alcohol to dilute to = 12% EO

Diffuse/Diffusion: Petitgrain can be diffused by itself or in any blend. It lends a tart citrus or green quality and the air feels clean. It soothes the nervous system, is antispasmodic and is inhaled for “nervous exhaustion or stress.” — 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, p. 127

Emotional/Energetic Use: Inhaled for nervous exhaustion, fatigue or stress. Inhale to wake-up and to be more positive.

leaves of Lemon tree that yield Lemon Petitgrain with a small fruit — **Lemon Petitgrain from Lemon leaves and small fruit. photo by Jill Mulvaney**

PERFUMERY AND BLENDING ~ Petitgrain Blends Best with: Bergamot and all types of Citrus and other Petitgrain citrus, Clary Sage, Clove, Atlas Cedar, Lemon Eucalyptus, Frankincense, scented (Pelargonium) Geranium, jasmine. Juniper CO₂, Labdanum, Lavender, Oakmoss, Palmarosa, Patchouli, all types of Rose, Rosemary, Sage, and any floral, and Ylang Ylang.

BLENDING WITH A JEANNE ROSE FORMULA

See https://Jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-perfumery

Solid Tuberose Perfume Formula #2 – Jeanne Rose 2003
Another Formula is: 1/2 oz. Tuberose wax and 1/2 oz. Lavender infused Oil. Melt in a 1 oz. jar in a water bath – slowly and carefully. When the wax is melted add the following scents: 15 drops Jasmine, 15 drops Ylang extra, 15 drops Vanilla, 15 drops Petitgrain Mandarin and 3 drops Vetivert. If you have it, you can also add 3-5 drops Tuberose to bring up the caramel scent. Stir gently, let it sit until cool and solid.

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HERBAL USES OF PETITGRAIN AND LEAVES OF CITRUS ~ You make an herbal infusion of the leaves of any citrus tree for a nice relaxing herbal bath and add a few drops of Petitgrain to enhance the scent. This is always a special treat.

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Key Use: Inhale to soothe panic and use externally for clean skin; that is, inhaled for the nervous system and use in your body-care products.

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JEANNE ROSE’S “TOMATO TALES” OF PETITGRAIN

~ ORANGE FLOWER AND PETITGRAIN DISTILLATION. At the end of March 2003, I had the opportunity to distill 5 pounds of pure Orange Flowers for Sweet Neroli Hydrosol obtained from organically grown sweet naval Orange, variety Atwood. The balance of the leaves and flowers was then sent to another distiller for the Orange Flower and Petitgrain hydrosol.
The trees were grown in the foothills edging the great central valley of California near the town of Lindsay. The trees are grown organically, at 500 feet with a west exposure in full sun and the area is certified organic. The area is irrigated via the San Joaquin river. The soil is USDA Porterville cobbly clay. There is about 12 inches of rainfall per year. The harvest was on Wednesday 3/25/03 from about 15 trees. Harvest weather was overcast to full sun, about 75° F and 30% humidity. It took 3 hours for each of two persons (6 total) to fill 13 five-gallon buckets with twigs and flowers. This was transported to San Francisco and arrived on Thursday. Each tree produced about 1 bucket (3.3 lbs./bucket) of easily available twigs with flowers. This effectively gently pruned the tree of excess flowers and will leave it able to produce more and tastier Oranges.
We started with 43 pounds of twiglets that had blossoms and buds attached. It took 3-man hours (1 hour for 3 persons) to pick off the flowers and to accumulate the 5 pounds of just-opened flowers. The fragrance was sweet, intense, floral and fruity with some green back notes. The balance of the leaves and flowers (38 pounds) was sent to the larger stainless-steel unit, 1-hour north. The leaves were kept above the water and must not be immersed in water, as this will cause the hydrolysis of linalyl acetate. A 4-inch copper tube was added to the gooseneck. Two hours of distillation produced 12 gallons of hydrosol. pH began at 5, the scent being green and citrus and as the distillation continued, pH became more acid to 4.4, the scent becoming more rich, citrus and spicy. 3 ml of essential oil was produced from the 38 pounds of twigs and flowers.

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NOT ORGANIC AND IN THE SMOG ~ This is only one distillation that I experienced with citrus flowers/or leaves. Another that I did was in southern California where I was invited to an abandoned Orange grove that was left in the middle of a nexus of freeways. The citrus tree leaves were covered with dust, dirt and smog. My students and I (we were 14 in all), cut branches and sat in a circle picking off the leaves and individually dusting and then washing each leaf. It took several hours to do this. I set up my still with a screen inside to lift the leaves up and off of the boiling water and we steam-distilled the freshly cleaned leaves. Petitgrain must be steam-distilled and not hydro-distilled to prevent the hydrolysis of the linalyl acetate which is the most important constituent. Properly distilled the oil and hydrosol will have a high ester content. The smell was spectacular but since the Orange grove was located in the middle of a freeway, I cautioned everyone to smell but not use the distillate.

HYDROSOL ~ In 2003, we distilled 38 lbs. of leaves and twigs of Petitgrain hydrosol. This was a wonderful hydrosol, very fragrant and sweet. It was used in skin care products and simply as a mister. Several misting products were produced using the hydrosol. Mixed 50/50 with Spearmint hydrosol produced a very refreshing and fragrant fruity, citrus mint hydrosol. Fabulous to use. If the organic citrus farmers of central California would collect and distill leaves and twigs of their sweet Orange crop, they would have a value-added product in the way of sweet Petitgrain hydrosol.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh

HISTORICAL USES ~ Petitgrain is used since the 1700s in the Perfumery industry. It lends a citrus woody note to perfumes.

HISTORY & INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ “Petitgrain from Citrus aurantium: Essential Oil of Paraguay” by Daniel Gade — EcoBot 33(1), 1979, pp. 63-71

Some Petitgrain history — **Petitgrain History**

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CONTRAINDICATIONS: It is not like other citrus oils as it is steam-distilled and not cold-pressed and thus is not photosensitive. Only contraindications are if you have already sensitivities to citrus oils.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: GRAS – generally recognized as safe.

A Snapshot of Petitgrain Odor

**Mandarin Petitgrain & Paraguay Petitgrain Odor Snapshot**

Odor Snapshot of Petitgrain sur Fleur and Petitgrain Absolute

**Petitgrain Odor Snapshots of 4 kinds of Petitgrain essential oil**

Using the Advanced Vocabulary of Odor to describe the scent of Mandarin Petitgrain leaves by Jeanne Rose. For further study with Jeanne Rose and to learn the Vocabulary of Odor enroll in class, April 2020. See /calendar.html

References
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Arctander. 1960
Gorski, R., Kania, A. Influence of coriander and petitgrain oils on the mortality of foxglove aphid (Aulacorthum solani Kalt.) occurring on tobacco.
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing. Florida. 1976
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol. IAG Botanics. 2015 (supporter of testing hydrosols)
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose. San Francisco California, 1992
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Mojay, Gabriel. Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit. Rochester, Vermont: Healing Arts Press, 1999.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California:

Petitgrain absolute ~ lovely perfume ingredient from Eden Botanicals

Originally, Petitgrain EO, which means “small seed” was actually distilled from the immature and small, round green fruits of the Citrus trees. Of course, if you distill the fruits then there will be no mature fruit to eat or preserve. So eventually, the distillation was limited to the leaves and small branchlets, but the oil is still called Petitgrain.

Floral Floral Perfume

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Chart of current Citrus names — **Current correct Latin Names of the Citrus**

~JR~

SOME CAUTIONS TO REMEMBER

Essential Oil Safe Precautions

**Photo courtesy of Rana Sohail citrus**

ORANGE & Blood Orange EO

Jul17

Orange ~ A description of sweet Orange/Blood Orange fruit, country of origin, characteristics, Jeanne Rose skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this famous, important oil.

20-year Collection of Orange Oil. Sweet Orange & Blood Orange

ORANGE ESSENTIAL OIL/HYDROSOL PROFILE

By Jeanne Rose ~ July 2019

ORANGE. LATIN BINOMIAL AND NAMING ~ Citrus x aurantium. In the past it was called Citrus aurantium, C. aurantium var. sinensis, C. sinensis and C. x sinensis with the ‘C’ always meaning Citrus. We are discussing the sweet Orange and Blood Orange and not the Bitter Orange that was covered in the blog-post on Neroli. The orange is a hybrid between pomelo (Citrus maxima) as the female parent and mandarin (Citrus reticulata).

Yes, I know that this is the same exact name as is used for Clementine and Grapefruit and Bitter Orange-Neroli. But there are strict rules on naming and citrus has been examined and analyzed for parentage for quite some time.

Citrus taxonomy is confusing and often inconsistent. They are all named with Latin and common names. They often have the same parentage but have different physiologic forms or formae often based on terroir (such as Mandarin in Italy and Tangerine in the USA) or scent chemistry such as (limonene which has a chiral difference — both a left turning molecule, (S) for sinistral with the sour smell of Lemon or Bitter Orange and a right turning molecule, (R) for right hand or clockwise, the sweet smell of Oranges). This is the reason we all as lovers of essential oils and aromatherapy need to learn some chemistry along with good taxonomy.

Family – Rutaceae

ORANGE. HISTORY, DESCRIPTION, & COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN ~ The Orange is not known in the wild and is assumed to have originated in southern China, maybe India and Indochina. The sweet Orange was mentioned in Chinese history as early as 300 B.C. It was carried to the Mediterranean by traders around 1500. Blood Oranges originated in Sicily and Spain in the 18^th century and there are many varieties. Their pigment originates from anthocyanins. They often have intense sweet flavor with a hint of Raspberry.

I have always wondered whether the color was named after the fruit or was the fruit named after the color? Today I found out that the color orange was named after the fruit, not the other way around. Before then, the English-speaking world referred to the orange color as geoluhread, which literally translates to “yellow-red.” —Wikipedia

“The Color Orange Was Named After the Citrus Fruit Orange.”

Picture of oranges, Moro Blood Orange taken in February — **Moro Blood Orange in February**

General description of plant, habitat & growth ~ This is a small, evergreen tree with a deliciously sweet pulp, dark green leaves and white flowers. The sweet Orange is a hybrid between the maternal line of the Pomelo (Citrus maxima) and the Mandarin (Citrus reticulata) and varieties of sweet Orange arise through mutations as the sweet Orange reproduces asexually.

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To see a chart of the five pure origin Citrus genus, please see the Mandarin Jeanne-blog post.

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Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods ~ The peel oil is either cold-pressed or steam-distilled. If it is steam-distilled it will be a lighter color and have less of the fruity citrus odor of cold-pressed Orange. Commercially, Orange oil can also be extracted from the juice during the juicing process. Sometimes sweet Orange leaves and flowers are also distilled and that is called Petitgrain and sweet Orange flower oil.

Yield ~ Orange peel oil yields up to 0.5% by cold-pressing.

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Organoleptic Characteristics of Various Orange Oil in 2019

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Orange Essence is from juice; Orange wild is from the Dominican Republic from trees that have reverted to a wild state; Orange sweet is from the United States and Blood Orange from Italy.

4 Types of Orange Oil

ORANGE ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ EO Odor is citrus, fruity and spicy. There is also an herbaceous quality to the wild Orange that would be a lovely addition in a citrus perfume. Blood Orange is very rich and more intense than the others with a better tenacity in the blend or the perfume. The odor of any Orange peel or Orange essence is dependent on its chemistry.

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“Sweet Orange peel oil is the most important of the citrus oils. It yields up to 0.5% by cold pressing. It is mainly produced in the south of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Florida and Brazil. (+)-Limonene is the main constituent of this oil and has sweet scent and taste. The aldehyde content of Sweet Orange oil is the measure of the oil. The preferred Valencia oil possesses up to 3% aldehydes. One of which is decadienal with an extremely high aroma value. Other constituents that contribute to the character and quality of Orange oil are the sinensal. x-sinensal has a high orange aroma scent and low odor threshold while b-sinensal has a metallic-fishy note that can be very objectionable.

The difference between Orange and Grapefruit oil can be as simple as the amount of (+)-valencene. When the amount of a-terpineol exceeds normal level, off-notes occur. This terpineol forms during the aging or oxidation of orange juice. (Some essential oil of Orange is indeed produced from Orange Juice). The acetates contribute to the floral notes of Orange oil.”^{1 —}also from the Blending Book.

The taste of Orange flesh and juice is determined mainly by the relative ratios of sugars and acids and its ripeness when eaten. It can be sweet, tangy, tart, deep and tasty, and combinations of all of these and this taste is reflected in the odor or it might be better to say that the odor is reflected in the taste.

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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ D-Limonene (the sweet one), N-Decylic Aldehyde, Linaloöl, Terpineol, and B-Carotene. Limonene is the most abundant compound of monoterpene hydrocarbons for all the examined juices of Blood Orange, Sweet Orange, Lemon, Bergamot and Bitter Orange and with the important difference that mirror images of this molecule changes the odor and taste. In the citrus peels, Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the essential oil of citrus peel. The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it is found in nature as a mirror-image, two types, the (R)- and (S)-limonene. Isomer (R)- has the characteristic sweet smell of Oranges, while the (S)- smells like the sour of Lemons or bitter Orange. (R) is clockwise or right hand and (S) is counterclockwise or sinistral- left hand.

“Sweet Orange peel oil is the most important of the citrus oils. It yields up to 0.5% by cold pressing. It is mainly produced in the south of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Florida and Brazil. (+)-Limonene is the main constituent of this oil also called the (R or right-hand isomer). The aldehyde content of Sweet Orange oil is the measure of the oil. The preferred Valencia oil possesses up to 3% aldehydes. One of which is decadienal with an extremely high aroma value. Other constituents that contribute to the character and quality of Orange oil are the sinensal. X-sinensal has a high orange aroma scent and low odor threshold while b-sinensal has a metallic-fishy note that can be very objectionable.

There are many synonyms for the sweet limonene including, d-limonene, D-Limonene, (+)-Limonene, (R)-(+)-Limonene, (R)-limonene and others.

Solubility ~ Incompletely soluble in 95% alcohol up to 10 volumes. Some Orange oil is soluble in in a quarter to half that amount.

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HISTORICAL USES ~ Digestive and flavoring. “The Color Orange Was Named After the Fruit.” Today I found out orange was named after the fruit, not the fruit named after the color. Before then, the “English-speaking world referred to the orange color as geoluhread, which literally translates to ‘yellow-red’.” —Wikipedia

Sweet Orange & Blood Orange Oils – courtesy of Eden Botanicals — Sweet Orange and Blood Orange Oils — courtesy of Eden Botanicals

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INTERESTING FACTS ~ Peel pulp and fruit pulp contains vitamins, minerals, and enzymes. The peel oil does not contain vitamins – so don’t drink it. Originated in China. The oil is used for flavoring food, drink, and confectionery, Curacao type liqueurs and for flavoring cigarette paper. The Orange tree was taken to the West Coast of America by Franciscan monks, who began the cultivation of it there. The cold-pressed peel oil protects against insect damage when added to furniture polish and is used in termite eradication.

Valencia oranges have thin skins, a few seeds, and are very juicy and are considered the best for juicing.

Blood Orange is not quite as sweet as the sweet Orange. The red color comes anthocyanin, a type of flavonoid. It’s believed that this coloring was the result of a mutation between the blond oranges and of Valencia’s and Navels.

If you want to read 70 pages on the sweet Orange, blossom, oil and water, that would be volume III , pages 118-197 of The Essential Oils by Guenther. Fascinating and full of discovery.

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ORANGE PROPERTIES

GENERAL PROPERTIES OF ESSENTIAL OIL ~ In general, the oil of Orange is slightly antiseptic, antispasmodic, a slight diuretic, sometimes a depurative (purifying), stomachic, cholagogue (promotes the discharge of bile); when inhaled is can be calming and sedating; and in skin care or by external application it has antiseptic properties.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES & HOW USED (IG OR AP) ~ Application in skin care products and for disinfection. Internally by-the-drop in orange juice, it is taken as a diuretic, for constipation, obesity, bronchitis, colds, ‘flu, and to eliminate toxins.

Physical Uses & How Used ~ Application (AP) – Orange oil goes nicely into many blends that are used for skincare. It would be a middle note to other aromatic oils and blends well with many. In lotions and creams, it has a slight antiseptic quality as well as the aromatic sunshiny scent.

Ingestion (IG) – Don’t. Drink the juice instead and dry and keep the peels for your bath.

Inhalation (IN) – Orange oil is relaxing by inhalation , especially when mixed with some of your other favorites such as Lavender, Spikenard, Jasmine, and many more.

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Skin Care Formulas are available in my 350-page Herbal Body Book that is chock-full of great skin, hair, and body care formulas. Here is one I have always enjoyed.

Corny Honey Peeler for Face or Body

Mix together 1 tablespoon each of Cornmeal and Orange flower honey. Mix these together in the palm of your hand and then apply to a steamed and cleansed face using small circular motions. When the honey is tacky, apply a thin layer of yogurt (or buttermilk will do) over the top, take a bath or shower and remove when rinsing — first with warm and then with cool water. Your skin will be smooth and bright.

sweet California Navel Oranges in February — **Sweet California Navel Oranges in February**

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EMOTIONAL PROPERTIES (AP OR IN) ~ Inhaled for nervousness and anxiety.

Emotional/Energetic Uses ~ Used by inhalation for nervous exhaustion, obsessions, to stimulate the appetite, to improve your self-image by boosting self-confidence, and assist with concentration. Orange peel oil can also be used in a blend via application (as in massage or topical use) for these emotional and energetic states.

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ You can add Orange peel/Blood Orange to any blend for diffusion. It does two things: it is rather inexpensive and brings down the price of the entire blend and it adds the sparkly sunny Orange odor to any combination of scents. A great way to refresh the air of your home.

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EATING ORANGES ~ For starters, not only is an orange a delicious fruit to snack on whenever or daily, but its health benefits are an added perk. They contain vitamin C, fiber and potassium. Eating Oranges promotes healthier and more beautiful skin, better eyesight, reduces the chances of a stroke, assists in weight loss, and helps keep our blood vessels healthy. Eating one Orange, one Apple, one Tomato, and one Carrot every day supplies the correct types of fiber into your diet.

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HERBAL USES ~ My best suggestion for using Orange oil externally is not too. That is, use the peel itself herbally. See below. But just in case you don’t know how, here are some obvious choices.

I have been happily using Orange flowers and Orange peel for over 50 years. the sweet Orange peel is dried, cut, and added to bath herb mixtures as an aromatic and antiseptic stimulant. This peel, cut & sifted (CS), makes any bath into a pleasure. The powdered peel can be mixed with any liquid and used as a facial mask — I like it with Almond meal or powdered Oatmeal. An infusion of the peel is also helpful as an addition to your shampoo to reduce oiliness and in the herbal rinse as well. Refer to Jeanne Rose Herbal Body Book for hundreds more uses to add to your knowledge.²

The powdered peel sifted is also mixed with baking soda or other drying agents and used as an underarm deodorant. It does not stop the perspiration, but it does make it pleasant when you are out and about working and especially in the garden, this mixture is repellent to bugs.

A box made from orange peel turned inside out and a candle made from Orange peel with Olive oil. — **Orange peel box and Orange peel Olive Oil candle**

Orange peel box and Orange peel Olive oil candle

Orange Peel Box. You can also make small boxes out of the peeled flavedo (skin). Cut Orange in half, scoop out the flesh and eat that, soak the skin in water for several hours, turn skin inside out and place over a mold or copper tubing (copper kills bacteria). Let dry over the mold. Then remove. Make sure they are very dry before you polish with a silk polishing cloth and then fill the box with potpourri, snuff or jewelry, and make sure that the top fits over the bottom. My own hand-made boxes never looked quite as ‘finished’ as the ones that I purchased in the ’80s.

Orange Peel Candle. Halved, defleshed Oranges can also be made into Olive Oil lamps. Keep the inner stem intact as you remove the juicy flesh as that is your wick. Fill the peel with olive oil and light the wick. Olive oil works best because of the high burning point, if it happens to spill, the oil drowns out the flame and thus your wooden house won’t go up in flames. It probably also is wise to place the Orange on a non-burnable base like a piece of tile.

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I also use thin-skinned Oranges at the end of the season when they are pithier – somewhere around July – and I make pomanders — those medieval objects that are used to decorate the Christmas tree or to put into a bowl and fragrance the room. Yes, it is best to make pomanders in the months of July-August when you have a bit of time before the holidays and so that the pomander can cure by the time Christmas arrives. Pomanders are made with thin-skinned pithy Oranges (or whatever you have) and stuck full of Cloves very close together. As the pomander dries, the skin shrinks, the Cloves get closer together, preserves the Orange and the fragrant scent of Orange/Clove fills the air. They take a month or so to cure. They are easy but sometimes time-consuming to make.

An Orange stuck with cloves, dried and tied with a ribbon as a pomander. — **Orange and Clove Pomander Ball**
**for Scent**

HYDROSOL ~ There is not much nicer application in the morning than a spray of Orange or Blood Orange hydrosol on your face or in the air around you. It feels refreshing and sunshiny – a good morning tonic for the skin. Orange and Blood Orange hydrosol is a facial toner and can be added to thick creams to thin them and they can be incorporated into all types of body care formulas. Blood Oranges have red colored flesh and sweet, berry-like notes that extend into the hydrosol.

Orange Hydrosol Limerick
A spray with sweet Orange hydrosol
Will make you feel good and feel tall
It will sweeten your skin
And will heal your sore chin
And heal anything short of a fall…JeanneRose2014

Positively Aromatic and Lancaster Creations are my special sources for the best citrus hydrosols. And Sandra Shuff, who owns Positively Aromatic, says her husband Douglas sprays Blood Orange hydrosol onto their salads to make a very special taste and these salads are really delicious. I sometimes forget how easy it is to use hydrosols on food — ‘a simple spray and away you go’.

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HYDROSOL — PLEASE NOTE ~ A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

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KEY USE ~ Oil of Refreshment

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BLENDING ~ Sweet Orange oil blends with just about anything. Be sure of what you have as there is also Bitter Orange Oil and wild Orange from the Dominican Republic (oranges that are not cultivated and allowed to revert to the wild state). Try the different Orange oils with these: herbal oils like Angelica root, Clary Sage, Patchouli, Spearmint, Sage, Rosemary, Marjoram, Thyme; evergreen oils such as Juniper berry, Pine, and Spruce; all the citrus oils such as Bergamot, Grapefruit, lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Petitgrain (these have all been written about in the jeanne-blog; the florals of Chamomile, Rose Geranium, Lavender, Mimosa, Rose, Jasmine, Vanilla; the spicy oils like Black Pepper, Caraway, Cardamom, Cinnamon; all the resinous oils such as Cistus/Labdanum, Spikenard [the resinous oils have also been discussed at length both specifically and in general (see https://jeanne-blog.com/resin-resinoids-gums-eo/)]; and with the many CO₂extracts that can be used in blends , skin care and perfumery.

Arctander who wrote Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, mentions that Orange oil is used “as an odor-masking agent, … In perfumes, old-fashioned eau de colognes, fern perfumes, Chypres, “fruity” and citrus perfumes.” Just remember that Orange is not very tenacious in a perfume and in a few weeks can get lost and the perfume scent will change.

Citrus Scent Notes ~ Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They can be used in up to 25% as the base for classic type of eau de cologne. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes.

In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the basis for English Lavender, which is an 1826 creation. High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also, of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.

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PERFUMERY ~ Orange peel oil has much use in perfumery. Here is a formula from 1867.

Eau De Portugal
Neutral Grape Spirits at least 60 % …. 1 quart
Orange Peel zest oil … ½ oz
Bergamot Peel Oil … ¼ oz
Rose otto oil … ½ dram (2 ml)
Rinse all your cologne bottles with the spirits before filling with the Eau de Portugal.
— The Art of Perfumery by Piesse

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sweet Orange essential oil

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A SCIENCE ARTICLE ..— NUTRITIVE AND MEDICINAL VALUE OF CITRUS FRUITS by Milind S. Ladaniya, in Citrus Fruit, 2008 “ ….. ….. Organic acids present in citrus fruits, such as citric acid, malic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, and malonic acid also provide calories, and are easily metabolized as they are the part of metabolic pathways in the human body. Citrus fruits do not increase the body’s acid content. These acids are very mild compared to the hydrochloric acid present in stomach. Most of the acids are present in the form of salts of potassium (with K or Na cation). Sodium and potassium are alkaline metals; their salts are excreted by the body in the form of sweat or urine. …..”

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References:

¹Ohloff, Günther. Scent and Fragrances, The Fascination of Odors. Springer-Verlag.
²Rose, Jeanne. . /books.html
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Elizabeth, NJ. 1960
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing Company, FL. 1974. Guenther treatise on Orange Oil covers almost …….80 pages and should be read by anyone who truly has an interest in essential oils in general and Orange oil.
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol, 1^st edition, 2015, IAG Botanics
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 3rd Edition 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Ladaniya, Milind S. • NUTRITIVE AND MEDICINAL VALUE OF CITRUS FRUITS. Citrus Fruit, 2008
Piesse, G.W. Septimus. The Art of Perfumery and the Methods of Obtaining Odors from Plants. PA. 1867.
Rawlinson, Gloria. The Perfume Vendor. Hutchinson & Co. 1937.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.
Rose, Jeanne. The Blending Class Booklet. Available from the author at /books.html
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. Available from the author at /
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.
www.EdenBotanicals.com. 2019

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Current Names for Citrus

Orange flowers

Scent Rising up

Scent Rising Up

NEROLI Oil/Hydrosol

Jun18

NEROLI. Essential Oil/Hydrosol Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ June 2019

Neroli. ~ A description of Bitter Orange/Neroli flower, country of origin, characteristics, Jeanne Rose skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this famous, important oil

6 different Neroli oils — **Pretty Neroli oil — hydro-steam distilled – Eden Botanicals Essential Oil**

Neroli. Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Citrus x aurantium L, also called C. amara, C. aurantium ssp. Amara, C. iyo. It Is a cross between Citron and of C. reticulata (Mandarin) + C. maxima (Pomelo) as the female parent. The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross and in this case several types of Citrus were crossed to eventually become “Bitter Orange”. There are many backcrosses in this group of Bitter Orange/Neroli.
To see a chart of the five pure origin Citrus genus, please see the Mandarin Jeanne-blog post.

Family ~ Rutaceae, the Citrus family

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Neroli Limerick
There is a citrus flower Neroi
It is grown in the Garden Filoli
It rings all my bells
With such heavenly smells
And sure, makes me feel all holy! … JeanneRose2012

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Neroli. History & Countries of Origin ~ Native to Europe and Siberia naturalized worldwide.

It seems that the bitter or sour orange is a native of China in the southeastern part of Asia. From there it spread out to India and Iran. The Romans did not know it and it was introduced to the Mediterranean area around 1000 A.D. by the Arabs and this bitter Orange was the only one known for about 500 years. Did those expert distillers and alchemists, the Moors, distill bitter Orange to get the water or the essential oil? We don’t know. The lovely Neroli oil was first mentioned by J.B. della Porta in 1563 for the Princess of Neroli.

Neroli Naming History ~ Who is Neroli? “By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, the princess of Nerola, Italy, introduced the essence of bitter Orange tree as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath. Since then, the term “neroli” has been used to describe this essence.”

a bitter orange flower blossom — **Bitter Orange flower**

Neroli. Bitter Orange. General description of plant, habitat & growth ~ The bitter Orange tree that produces Neroli essential oil is very close in appearance to the sweet Orange. However, they may look similar but the fruit they produce is different. Bitter Orange produces a bitter flesh and pungent sweet essential oil (called Neroli) while sweet Orange has a sweet flesh and markedly different essential oil (called sweet Orange oil). This orange is used as a rootstock in groves of sweet orange and if the sweet Orange can go wild, the bitter Orange rootstock will often take over and the subsequent fruit will be sour and the flowers sweet like Neroli. The tree has a long-life span, up to 100 years. They are propagated by seed and/or grafting onto a disease-resistant rootstock; the young trees are planted out in April-May; they are well taken care of throughout their life and early evening or nighttime irrigation is most important in the early years to set good roots. The flowers are harvested from late April to June when the buds just begin to open and in their early years were done according to herbal principals, “harvest in the morning when the dew is dry but before the sun is high”. Now harvesting often goes on until noon particularly on warm sunny days. If the flowers are picked when closed, the odor of the oil is ‘green’, but these yield a strong Neroli water.

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Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield ~ Bud blossoms of the true bitter (sour) orange tree, Citrus x aurantium Linnaeus, (subsp. Amara) L., on being distilled yield Neroli bigarade oil. If, on the other hand, the leaves and petioles (leaf stalk) are distilled, oil and hydrosol of Petitgrain Bigarade is obtained. Flowers of Bitter orange must not be mixed with the flowers of sweet Orange as the properties , specific gravity and chemistry are different.

THE flowers are harvested from March to May and hydro-distilled for the Neroli oil and hydrosol. > The flowers are hydro-distilled not steam-distilled and must float freely in the distillation waters (just like Roses and Ylang-Ylang).

In North Africa, the bulk of the flower harvest is hydro-distilled, and the balance extracted with volatile solvents which yields concrete and absolute of orange flowers as well as a floral wax.

Neroli floral wax

YIELD ~ 850 kg of carefully picked Orange flowers yields 1 kg of Neroli oil after steam distillation. Or 1 kg of Orange blossoms yields about 1 g. of Neroli oil and this oil is affected by the atmospheric conditions when it is distilled. The small, white, waxy flowers from the citrus tree are hydro-steam distilled.
Yield: 0.8-1.0%.

2003 . Jeanne Rose Harvesting Orange flowers — 2003. Harvesting Neroli flowers near Fresno at Olsen Organic Farm

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Neroli Oil . ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS

Organoleptic characteristics of 4 neroli oils compared — **4 Neroli oils compared**

Neroli Odor Description ~ Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, strong floral aroma with powdery and aldehydic notes, very fresh with a warm base note that resembles freshly dried hay. Because of the high price of Neroli it is ever more frequently diluted or adulterated with aromatic isolates, and synthetic odors or with Petitgrain. It can somewhat resemble Petitgrain in its odor as often Petitgrain is used to adulterate Neroli oil. (see Odor Snapshots at the end of the article).

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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Neroli contains l-linalyl acetate and l-linalool as well as nerolidol and indole. Ocimenes, limonene, linaloöl and linalyl acetate are higher in Neroli than Petitgrain. Indole which possesses a powerful exotic floral note at high dilution and a somewhat “fresh breast-fed baby shit odor” when not diluted separates and differentiates Neroli from Petitgrain. This indole odor is sometimes very prevalent in the Neroli hydrosol. Methoxypyrazine contributes to a green character, which also is the interesting green note in Galbanum and Green Peppers. Nootkatone is not present in either Petitgrain or in Neroli.

In the citrus peels, Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the essential oil of citrus peel. The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it is found in nature as a mirror-image, two enantiomers the (R)- and (S)-limonene. Isomer (R)- has the characteristic sweet smell of oranges, while the (S)- smells like the sour of lemons or bitter Orange. (R) is clockwise or right hand and (S) is counterclockwise or sinistral- left hand.

Solubility ~ The essential oil is soluble in 1-2 volumes of 80% alcohol and gets hazy to turbid if you add more.

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HISTORICAL USES ~ This tree, Citrus x aurantium, the bitter orange tree produces three different essential oils and a precious hydrosol. Bitter Orange oil comes from the peel of the ripe fruit, Petitgrain oil is distilled from the leaves and twigs, and Neroli oil is hydro-distilled from the flowers of the tree and the precious orange-flower water or Neroli hydrosol is the water of the distillation.

The bitter peel is preserved in sugar and eaten as a sweet with coffee.

Bitter Orange Peel in a jar used as a sweet — **Bitter Orange Peel as a sweet**

The famous eau de cologne was made by Italian perfumer J.M. Farina of Cologne, Germany, who created a blend of essential oils inspired by the princess of Nerola. The blend included Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Bigarade, Neroli and Rosemary. Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by first dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary and Neroli (water) to the distillate.

INTERESTING FACTS ~ “Neroli was employed as a scent by the prostitutes of Madrid, so they would be recognized by its aroma. On the other hand, the blossoms were worn as a bridal headdress and carried as a bouquet, symbolizing purity and virginity. Together with Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon, and Rosemary oils, Neroli was a key constituent of the classic toilet water eau-de-Cologne” Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit, p.100.

• Fine perfumes can only be made with freshly distilled 70-95% neutral grape spirits. All the older perfumes were diluted down with neutral grape spirits. Originally, they were considered medicines and were taken internally by the drop. After the introduction of synthetics, around 1850, perfumes were made with chemicalized ingredients and were no longer edible. However, even today certain uplifting ‘spirits’ are sold in Europe as a tonic against seasickness, carsickness and all sorts of nausea.

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Neroli so special and sweet
It doesn’t smell like a beet
When I’m nervous or sad
And don’t want to feel bad
I diffuse it and jump to my feet. —jeannerose

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NEROLI PROPERTIES

The properties of Neroli include a quieting calming sedative effect upon inhalation, adding the hydrosol in coffee is calming to the caffeine feeling upon ingestion and the EO used externally in skin-care products is used to soften or as skin-healing scar-reducing tonic use.

Neroli ~ Physical Uses & How used

Application: On hemorrhoids, in skin care, in perfumery. It is especially useful in skin-care products for acne, anti-aging with Galbanum and Elemi, and applied for under-eye circles. The Neroli floral wax is added to creams where it aids in blocking, removing harmful UV rays, has antioxidant properties, is calming and soothing to the skin, helps eliminate dead skin cells, helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, softens skin, tones and soothes sensitive skin and it contains carotenoids and is rich in Vitamin E. Use this floral wax in skin care products such as lotions, creams, sunscreen, balms and for all your anti-aging formulas. There are 1250 flowers = 1 gram of wax.

Ingestion: Take a scant drop in your tea for Insomnia, or for diarrhea. Put a scant drop in a bottle of champagne as an aphrodisiac. Neroli water is used for nervous dyspepsia, abdominal spasm, and colic. Neroli water is good for cranky children when mixed with Orange honey and warm water and drunk.

Inhalation: The oil is inhaled for fatigue, birthing, palpitations, and cardiac spasms.

Neroli ~ Emotional Uses
Application: Apply in a balm on the wrists or back of neck for nervous depression

Inhalation: Inhale the scent for depression, or as a mild sedative that is both joyous and uplifting. It is stabilizing and grounding, soothing, calming and sedating and can alleviate insomnia, PMS, and soothe fever.

Neroli ~ Energetic Uses
Inhalation: It is used for shock, grief, and depression. It is used in blends to increase concentration, to ease the pain of emotional abuse, to ease shocking news, with Frankincense at the death of a loved one, for manic depression of fear of personal change and feelings, for loneliness and grief. The essential oil is truly a friend of the fearful and depressed.

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ May be diffused in a child’s room for reducing a temper tantrum, relaxing and assisting in sleep or a ½ teaspoon of the Neroli hydrosol given for insomnia.

all parts of the Bitter Orange with essential oils and hydrosol — **All the parts of the bitter Orange – EO and Hydrosol**

HYDROSOL (Orange Flower WATER) & BITTER ORANGE PEEL Uses ) ~ Neroli hydrosol/water is one of the most important herbal products used in the Middle Eastern world. True Neroli hydrosol is used in Spain and Tunisia in foods as a flavoring agent particularly in baked goods, confectionary and in drinks and it is the hydrosol that is taken for insomnia. The bitter Orange peel is also used as a sweet in Greece and Turkey and is a delicious addition to a variety of desserts such as ice-cream.

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Jeanne Rose distilling Orange flowers — JeanneRose distilling Orange flowers at Olsen Organic Farm – 2003

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NEROLI DISTILLATION TALE

NEROLI HYDROSOL ~ In March 2003, I had the opportunity to distill 5 pounds of organic Orange flowers for sweet Neroli Hydrosol obtained from a sweet naval Orange, variety Atwood in Lindsay, CA. from the Olsen Organic Farm. The balance of the leaves and flowers that we picked was then sent to anther distiller for the Orange Flower and Petitgrain hydrosol. As follows.

The trees were grown in the foothills edging the great central valley of California near the town of Lindsay. The trees are grown organically, at 500 feet with a west exposure in full sun and the area is certified organic. The area is irrigated via the San Joaquin River. The soil is USDA Porterville cobbly clay. There is about 12 inches of rainfall per year. The harvest was on Wednesday 3/25/03 from about 15 trees. Harvest weather was overcast to full sun, about 75°F with 30% humidity. It took 6 hours for two persons to fill 13 five-gallon buckets with twigs and flowers. This was transported to San Francisco and arrived on Thursday. Each tree produced about 1 bucket (3.3 lbs./bucket) of easily available twigs with flowers. This effectively gently pruned the tree of excess flowers and will leave it able to produce more and tastier Oranges.

At the farm on the following Saturday, we started with 43 pounds of twiglets that had blossoms and buds attached. It took 3-man hours (1 hour for 3 persons) to pick off the flowers and to accumulate the 5 pounds of just-opened flowers. The fragrance was sweet, intense, floral and fruity with some green back notes. We assembled the 25-liter copper alembic still and loaded it at 2 pm with 5 lbs. of morning picked flowers and 3 gallons of spring water. The flowers were kept above the bottom of the pot with a grid and freely floating in the boiling water. Distillation ran very well, and the distillate began to run at about 2:15 p.m. We continued the distillation until 5:45 pm at which time 1.5 gallons of Orange flower hydrosol had been accumulated. The pH changed from 6.1 at 2:25 pm to 5.3 at 2:45 pm and continued at 5.3 until the end. The heads (scent) had an odor of fruit, green and floral, the body (scent) was floral, fruity and citrus. Distillation was discontinued when the odor began to get green with no floral or citrus notes.

The balance of the leaves and flowers (38 pounds) that had been picked was sent to the larger stainless-steel unit, 1-hour north. A 4-inch copper tube was added to the gooseneck. Two hours of distillation produced 12 gallons of hydrosol. pH began at 5, the scent being green and citrus and as the distillation continued, pH became more acid to 4.4, the scent becoming more rich, citrus and spicy. 3 ml of essential oil was produced from the 38 pounds of twigs and flowers.

Neroli Hydrosol Use – 2003. This was a wonderful hydrosol, very fragrant and sweet. It was used in skin care products and simply as a mister. Several misting products were produced using the hydrosol. Mixed 50/50 with Spearmint hydrosol produced a very refreshing and fragrant fruity, citrus mint hydrosol. Fabulous…oh how I wish I had some now.f

There are many Neroli hydrosol/Orange flower water products on the market. Many are available in your nearby liquor/bottle store as an addition to beverages. Others are available through your herbal/aromatic stores.

photo of Neroli Hydrosol courtesy of Nature’s Gift

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In the book, Harvest to Hydrosol, is a GC-MS of a Neroli from Canada, 2013, that shows sorbic acid -a natural preservative, and a large amount of a-terpineol and an even larger amount of linalool. What I found most interesting however, was a tiny amount of the unpleasant greasy smelling aldehyde nonanal and may be what makes Neroli excellent for perfumery but not in a deodorant.

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Key Use ~ Neroli is inhaled for depression and fatigue and used extensively in fine perfumery and the hydrosol taken for insomnia.

Rising Up

Neroli. Blending & Perfumery Formulas

Read the Perfumery blog to understand some of the nuances of Perfumery.

BLENDING ~Neroli blends well with just about any oil and especially with other citrus such as Grapefruit and Bergamot; and deeply floral odors such as Champaca, Osmanthus; with woody odors such as all the different Sandalwoods or Tonka bean; seed odors such as Coriander; spicy odors like Cardamom, Nutmeg and Styrax; the resin odors of Frankincense, Galbanum, Balsam of Peru/Tolu;

Neroli is one of the classic ingredients in Eaux de Cologne.

1^st Method: “Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols* and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary oil and Neroli oil to the distillate. The classic eau de cologne contained Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Bigarade + grape alcohol, Neroli water and either Rosemary hydrosol or Neroli essential oil.”
*This refers only to neutral grape spirits

2^nd Method: Dissolve the aromatics in 95% neutral grape spirits — distill — add the Neroli and the Rosemary. Effect the dilution required with Orange flower water or Rose water by adding up to 8-10 quarts or if the original formula is divided by 10 use 3-4 cups of the floral water.

It is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors are combined — George Askinson

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Maia’s FLORAL-WOODY SCENT
TOP – Neroli 5 – 10 drop
HEART – Rose Bourbonia 10 drops
BASE – Sandalwood Hawaiian 10 drops
Diluent – Cane Alcohol 50 drops

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BROWN SUGAR FORMULA. The essence of brown sugar; sweet and fortifying, uplifting and refreshing. Use as an inhalant or in blends — aftershave, astringent tonics, face wash or a sweet massage.

Smell brown sugar first to establish the scent in your mind and then start blending. Mix together, Lemon, Neroli, Patchouli, Tangerine. Mix these basic scents together in the combination that will most resemble brown sugar.

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FLORAL-FLORAL PERFUME – 9/25/13 (JR)

(the numbers are in drops, by volume not weight)

Top Note – 20 of Lavender abs + 20 of Neroli absolute
bridge to heart note – 2 of Bergamot
Heart Note – 10 of Champaca + 5 of Orange + 20 of Jasmine abs
bridge to the base note – 1 of Cardamom
Base Note – 6 of Patchouli + 6 of Spikenard
Fixative Note of Ambergris (1•100) Make a dilution first and use 1-drop of the Ambergris dilution
To Finish – Add 100-200 drops of grape spirits to dilute. You want the perfume at 25-50%

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NEROLI. JEANNE ROSE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SCENT.
Here is a lovely Perfume with Amber essence that I call

Perfume Formula called 'My Love — **“My Love” Perfume Formula**

To make this lovely perfume, mix each note separately and let them age for a week. After a week mix the main notes together and then let that age. Then in the 3^rd week, start adding the bridge — all of it or part of it, however you like. Now let that age again. Then add an equal amount of carrier (200 drops). I prefer neutral grape spirits, but you can use a carrier oil if you wish. It just makes a different smelling perfume. Age again and then finally after a month or 5 weeks you will have a fabulous perfume at 50%. You may wish to dilute to 25%.

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a single blosssom

NEROLI • A Favorite Tomato Tale from 1994

At the age of seven, Gloria Rawlinson (1918–1995), the poet, was afflicted with polio. She had been born in Tonga and raised in New Zealand. She was hospitalized for four years as a result of the polio and was bedridden or confined to a wheelchair for the rest of her life. She became a poet of significant achievement, eventually to be crowned the “the child poet of New Zealand” and later to become a biographer of other significant authors. She wrote the Perfume Vendor in 1935, a book of poems heavily influenced with the exotic scents of Tonga and New Zealand. I heard of this talented poet towards the end of her life, about 1990 and was given her book as a gift by a friend. The book is fantastical, child-like, original and a lovely fragrant read. I included her poem of the same name, The Perfume Vendor” in my own book called The Aromatherapy Book that was published in 1992. Around this time, maybe 1993, I was invited to a formal event at the New Zealand Embassy here in San Francisco where I met the Consul General. I had wanted to write a thank-you note to Gloria Rawlinson for the hours of enjoyable reading and I mentioned this to him. We spoke for a moment and he said he would see if her address was available. Several days after the event, I received Ms. Rawlinson address in the mail and promptly wrote her a letter. I am hoping that she received the letter and knew that there were still fans of hers in the United States. She had suffered ill-health for years and died in 1995.

Here is a small part of a poem from the Perfume Vendor …

OH! My place is taken I see—
The other vendors envy me,
The perfume-merchant, Neroli. …..
I am come home
To my scent bazaar,
With the rhizome
Of Iris florentina,
(You call it orris-root)—
Gum-resins, myrrh, opopanax,
Tolu, and sandal-wood, storax
And fifteen ounces of oil of cedar to boot— ……
“Ben Neroli—Ben Neroli—
Will you please allow me?
To dip
My little finger-tip
In the Jasmine bowl?”

Neroli flower

SCIENCE ARTICLE: NEROLI – PAIN REDUCING. J. Nat Med.. 2015 Jul;69(3):324-31. doi: 10.1007/s11418-015-0896-6. Epub 2015 Mar 12.Analgesic and anti-inflammatory activities of Citrus aurantium L. blossoms essential oil (neroli): involvement of the nitric oxide/cyclic-guanosine monophosphate pathway.

Abstract. The analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties of Citrus aurantium L. blossoms essential oil (neroli) were investigated in mice and rats. The analgesic activity of neroli was assessed … while acute and chronic anti-inflammatory effects were investigated …. Neroli significantly decreased the number of acetic acid-induced writhes in mice compared to animals that received vehicle only. Also, it exhibited a central analgesic effect, as evidenced by a significant increase in reaction time in the hot plate method. The oil also significantly reduced carrageenan-induced paw edema in rats. …. Neroli was analyzed by gas chromatography (GC) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and twenty-three constituents, representing 91.0 % of the oil, were identified. The major components of neroli were characterized as linalool (28.5 %), linalyl acetate (19.6 %), nerolidol (9.1 %), E,E-farnesol (9.1 %), α-terpineol (4.9 %), and limonene (4.6 %), which might be responsible for these observed activities. The results suggest that neroli possesses biologically active constituent(s) that have significant activity against acute and especially chronic inflammation and have central and peripheral antinociceptive effects which support the ethnomedicinal claims of the use of the plant in the management of pain and inflammation.

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References:
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing Company, FL. 1974
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol, 1^st edition, 2015, IAG Botanics
]. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25762161
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 3rd Edition 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Ohloff, Günther. Scent and Fragrances, The Fascination of Odors. Springer-Verlag.
Rawlinson, Gloria. The Perfume Vendor. Hutchinson & Co. 1937.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. Available from the author at /

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Odor snapshots of 2 types of Neroli flower oil from Eden Botanicals.

2 Odor snapshots of Neroli flower oil from Sicily and Egypt — •

Orange flowers – 2003

GOURMET PERFUMERY

LIME OIL & Makrut Lime

Apr22

LIME OIL & Makrut Lime Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ April 2019

Synopsis – Lime Oil and the Plant ~ A complete description of Lime, family ties, country of origin, characteristics, body care, skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this oil.

**Lime oil courtesy of EdenBotanicals.com**

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Latin Binomial/Botanical ~ Citrus x aurantiifolia is the Latin binomial for regular Lime oil and it is also incorrectly listed as Citrus aurantiifolia.[the x means that it is a cross as most citrus is] “Bearss Lemons, also called Lime, is Citrus latifolia or Persian lime. It is like the Lisbon Lemon.

Makrut Lime and Kaffir Lime is C. hystrix. The leaves as well as the fruit are eaten in foods and distilled and used in perfumery.

“The lime. *The putative parent differs from the unknown parent of the Lemon; Scora & Kumamoto (1983) consider there may be three wild species in the lime’s ancestry, two of them perhaps from outside subgenus Citrus.”³

Ancestral species include:

Citrus cavaleriei — Ichang Papeda
Citrus hystrix – Kaffir Lime
Citrus japonica — Kumquat
Citrus maxima – Pomelo
Citrus medica – Citron
Citrus micrantha – a Papeda
Citrus reticulata – Mandarin Orange

The parents of the ‘Mexican Lime are C. micrantha and C. medica and then the Mexican Lime crossed with Lemon gives the ‘Tahiti’ Lime (C. x latifolia). If you want to have a fine time scrambling your brains look at the incestuous crosses, back crossing, mutations, aberrations, speciation events, hybrids, genetic mixings, varieties, groups or outgroups, rootstock changes and terroir effects of the many Citrus types to understand the various citrus fruits, we have now.

Family – Rutaceae

Naming ~ “The taxonomy of the citrus fruits is complicated by hybridity and apomixis, with many stable hybrid lines being accorded species status, so that the number of edible species recognized in the genus Citrus L. … varies from 1 to 162”.¹

The current version of the Bearss lemon (lime) originated in the early 50s in Florida and is a very popular variety for lemon-growers. It is a true Lemon, and the peel is high in volatile oil. It is also popular because it produces high-quality fruit, a lot of Lemons on each tree, and because of its peel.”²(see the Lemon blog at https://jeanne-blog.com/lemon-oil/ ) I is also is called Citrus x latifolia or Persian lime (also known as Tahiti lime or Bearss lime), a seedless variety.

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Countries of Origin: There is a wide range of study of where and how the diverse group of Citrus developed or are indigenous. They are now naturalized worldwide. Guenther mentions that Lime is probably a native of the East Indian Archipelago and then brought to the Asiatic mainland and on to tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Lime was brought to Europe by the Arabs. For more extensive information read volume 3, page 287 of The Essential Oils by Guenther.

General description of Lime citrus, plant, habitat & growth “The tree seldom grows more than 5 meters (16 feet) high and if not pruned becomes shrub like. Its branches spread and are irregular, with short stiff twigs, small leaves, and many small sharp thorns. The evergreen leaves are pale green, and the small white flowers bloom in spring are usually borne in clusters. The fruit is about 3 to 4 cm (1 to 1.5 inches) in diameter, oval to nearly globular in shape, often with a small apical nipple, and the peel is thin and greenish yellow when the fruit is ripe. The pulp is tender, juicy, yellowish green in color, and decidedly acid. Limes exceed lemons in both acid and sugar content. There are, however, some varieties so lacking in citric acid that they are known as sweet Limes. These are grown to some extent in Egypt and certain tropical countries.”^{2 “}Citrus fruits are notable for their fragrance, partly due to flavonoids and limonoids (which in turn are terpenes) contained in the rind, and most are juice-laden. The juice contains a high quantity of citric acid giving them their characteristic sharp flavor. “⁸

**This maybe a Meyer Lemon but it looks much like the Lime. Photo by JeanneRose**

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Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield: The peel is cold-pressed or steam-distilled.
If Lime is cold-pressed “The fruit is peeled and then squeezed and the essential oil is trapped ‘in a blanket like emulsion composed of albedo [containing all the bioflavonoids], with its pectin and cellulose, water, and essential oils.’ [Fragrance by Edwin Morris] This is put through a screen and then centrifuged. It is then chilled which precipitates and solidifies the waxes from the fruit skin, which drop to the bottom of the collecting tank and are filtered out. The oil settles, then it is filtered again, decanted and stored” Aromatherapy Studies Course, Chapter 3, p. 62.
Lime is also steam-distilled, and this eliminates its phototoxicity.

Yield ~ There are many factors that affect the yield of oil from cold-pressed or steam-distilled Lime, including genetic factors, the terroir of the field, whether the peels were dried or pretreated, when the Limes were harvested and more. Guenther mentions that hand-pressed or cold-expressed Lime oil has a fine, true-to-nature odor and flavor. Yield of this oil depends on the quality and condition of the fruit and for a barrel of fruit (160 lb.) averages 2.5-3 ounces of oil.

Yield has also been observed as 0.06% for cold-pressed oil and .15% for steam-distilled oil.

Citrus limetta, alternatively considered to be a cultivar of Citrus limon, C .x limon ‘Limetta’, is a species of citrus, commonly known as mousambi, sweet lime, sweet lemon, and sweet limetta, it is a member of the sweet lemons and this only adds to the confusion of the naming of the Citrus. … 5

symbol from Jeanne Rose The Aromatherapy Book

Contraindications ~ Limes when handled and Lime oil cold pressed will cause photosensitivity when used undiluted or if you are exposed to sun directly after application. They contain furanocoumarins, (natural chemicals found in some essential oils). Be wary.

Lime peel oil steam-distilled does not have the plant components that cause photosensitivity.

**Courtesy of AromaticWisdomInstitute.com**

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Organoleptic Characteristics:

Color:	Colorless or very pale yellow, sometimes when CP a hint of green
Clarity:	Clear
Viscosity:	Non-viscous, watery
Taste:	Bitter, acidic, sour
Intensity of Odor:	5, dries down to 3, then a 2. A tart, pungent odor.

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ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ The distilled lime is prepared by steam distillation of whole fruits of (Citrus x aurantifolia (Christm). & Panz.)Swingle). This steam distilled oil is more important in the fragrance and perfumery industry than the cold-pressed oil. The more expensive cold-pressed oil is more like Lemon oil than what we associate organoleptically to Lime peel oil. Germacrene B has a woody-spicy odor that contributes to the fresh odor of Lime Peel oil. [Also includes pinene, linalool, citral, germacrene]⁴

The scent is clearly a tart citrus as a predominating note, with fresh fruit and herb as subsidiary notes and often a back note of floral and spice. “You will know it, when you smell it!”

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Citrus Notes ~ Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They can be used in up to 25% as the base for classic type of eau de cologne. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes. >In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender which is an 1826 creation. High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also, of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.

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Solubility ~ In cold-pressed oils because of the presence of waxes, it is not clearly soluble in 5 vol. of 90% alcohol. When Lime is steam-distilled, the oil is clearly soluble in 4 vol. and more of 90% alcohol.

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Chemical Components ~ These results for Lime were determined using principal component analysis.

In Lime peel oils, four chemotypes are distinguished: 1) limonene; 2) Limonene/gamma-terpinene; 3) Limonene/beta-pinene/gamma-terpinene; and 4) Limonene/gamma-terpinene/beta-pinene/oxygenated products.

The morphological distinctions between some of the citrus are slight and “much of the commercially significant striking degustatory (tasty) distinction rests on a subtlety, the presence and relative proportions of the two stereoisomers of limonene, one of which is bitter (as in lemon), the other sweet (as in mandarin), resulting in the differing tastes of the flesh and juice”.—Mabberly

Chemotypes have been identified for lime leaf oils as beta-pinene/limonene and Limonene/geranial/neral.

The peel oil of Kagzi lime (Citrus x aurantifolia Swingle) was isolated by hydrodistillation at six ripening stages and analyzed by GC. Nineteen components were identified, and some important aroma components were observed at higher concentrations than normally reported such as neral and geranial (7.8%), geraniol (7.3%) and citronellol (1.2%), particularly in green fruits. A decrease in oxygenated monoterpenes and an increase in monoterpene hydrocarbons was observed during ripening. The peel of mature green lime fruits was found rich in organoleptically important oxygenated constituents (29.7%).⁶ — Changes in the Peel Oil Composition of Kagzi Lime (Citrus aurantifolia Swingle) during Ripening

“ecuelle a piquer tool”

Historical Uses ~ In men’s fragrances and as an antispasmodic.

Citrus was originally relieved of its fragrant rind oil by lacerating the peels by hand. The Description from the Department of Agriculture is: “The ecuelle-a-piquer is used in perfumery, “for lacerating the oil vessels in the rinds of orange, lemon, etc.; the oil collects in the hollow handle, whence it is poured off.” Department of Agriculture, 1899 

The ecuelle-a-piquer, a perfumery tool, or extracting tool used to extract oils from citrus or orange rind is a large funnel made of copper having its inner layers tinned. The inner layer has numerous pointed metal needles just long enough to penetrate the epidermis of the ring. The lower stem is a receiver for the oil and used as a handle…. Now the fresh lemon or lime is placed in the bowl and rotated repeatedly, the oil glands punctured (scarified) and the oil drops into the handle.” — Source: Department of Agriculture Yearbook of the United States Department of Agriculture 1898 (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1899)

In Montserrat, the Foxes Bay Works, workers seen Ecuelling limes

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Interesting Facts: Use Lime oil much in the same way as Lemon oil, although it is tarter than Lemon oil, and with a ‘brighter’ scent; it blends well with Lemon oil. There is one old herb book that I have that says, “inhale the scent of Lime oil to stimulate the muscles of the eye.” How this works, I do not know.

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PROPERTIES

Lime oil is used as an astringent and antiseptic and in perfumery smells light and bright. Lime oil is somewhat a decongestant, a sedative inhalant that treats bilious headaches.

The juice is high in limonene, and ascorbic acid and is high in beta- carotene for cancer prevention and the juice is drunk with water for diarrhea and cramps; and used externally as a wash for dandruff.

Physical Uses & How used ~ Skin care and body care. Perfumery. The oil is used in massage oils for scent anti-infectious, antiseptic, antiviral, and stimulant to the capillaries.

Application – Lime oil has great application in skin care products for its astringency for oily skin and is used for its tart scent particularly in men’s perfumery. It is used in high dilution.

Ingestion –The juice is taken to relieve spasms of the gut and internal parasites, provide vitamin C via ingestion of the juice; while the oil is taken in dilution via herbal capsules as an antispasmodic, vermifuge, stomachic, and digestive.

Inhalation – Lime oil is sometimes used in a diffusor with other respiratory oils for respiratory infections.

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EMOTIONAL USES (AP OR IN) ~ The essential oil is diluted with calming oils and used by inhalation to calm the nervous system and for insomnia and nightmares.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Diffused as a disinfectant in sick rooms and to protect against contagious ailments. Lime oil works best when it is in a blend with other oils that also are both gentle and disinfect. Try Rosemary/Lime or Lime/Lemon or Black Pepper/Lime. All interesting with unique scents.

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BLENDING ~ Lime oil, both cold-pressed and steam-distilled, blends with other citrus as well as oils with a citrus scent such as Clary Sage and Citronella but also to brighten up floral absolutes and tame spicy oils such as Ginger and Black Pepper. It can add a bright touch of citrus to an overly sweet floral perfume.

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HYDROSOL ~ I have used Lime Hydrosol and found it very pleasant in scent and useful as an astringent on oily skin. The hydrosol can be added to non-alcoholic drinks to add a pleasant acidic citrus taste. Add only a teaspoonful until you know how much taste you wish in your tea or drink.

If you place the Lime hydrosol into a spray bottle, you can spray the inside of a cocktail glass to add a bit of flavor and tartness to your drink — try with Margarita, Daiquiri, Mojito, Cosmopolitan or Gimlet.

Harvest to Hydrosol, a book by Ann Harman. She has published several Lime hydrosol GC/MS; one in her book and others at her Circle H website. These are an excellent source of information about the chemistry of the hydrosols. One Lime Hydrosol GC/MS with 0.0259% oil in the hydrosol shows a large quantity of a-terpineol, terpinene-4-ol and other monoterpenols as well as geranial and neral (aldehydes) and more. Every distillation will yield a slightly different chart depending on the species or variety being distilled.

**Lime hydrosol from PositivelyAromatic.co**m

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Herbal Uses of Lime ~ Kaffir Lime –Thai food has a unique fragrance of this small, knobbly, rough-skinned citrus. Both the rind of the fruit and the equally perfumed leaves sliced into thin threads or lightly bruised and left whole when added to curries is a defining aromatic touch. The leaves, if you’ve bought more than you can use in a recipe, freeze well for future use. Or if you like, drop a couple of leaves into a gin and tonic, a mojito, or a pitcher of lemonade for an exotic twist.

“Distilled lime oil is the chief flavoring ingredient of carbonated nonalcoholic beverages such as Ginger ale, cola drinks and ice cream and baked goods and candy”⁷.—Guenther vol. III

from JeanneRose

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THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS

“Lemon and Orange oils and other citrus even improve after a year or two of cold storage in that some of the dissolved waxes separate from the oil and may be removed easily by filtration. The resulting oils are more soluble and produce clearer extracts. Neither odor nor flavor is impaired if the oils are kept in tin-lined fully filled drums.”⁷

Key Use: Oil of Food & Beverage

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Perfumery Formula ~ MOJITO BY BRET

Top Note is 25 drops total of a combination of Linden, Bergamot, white grapefruit
Bridge of 1 drop of Lime preferably (Keffir Lime) or Lime CP. A little goes a long way
Heart Note is 25 drops of Patchouli and “sugar”. The ‘Sugar” is something that we make in class and is an equal combination of Pink Grapefruit, and yellow Lemon, with a bit of Neroli, Patchouli and Tangerine made to suit the individual perfumer.
Bridge of 1 drop Spearmint
Base Note of 25 drops of Oakmoss and Sarsaparilla (mostly Oakmoss).
Fixative note is the Oakmoss which will hold and fix this scent that Bret called “Mojito”.
75 drops total + 228 drops cane spirits. This makes a 25% scent to 75% EtOH.

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MAIA’S FAVORITE CITRUS & SPICE PERFUME

TOP Neroli 8 and Bergamot 8
Bridge Lime 2-4
HEART Sandalwood 8 and Lavender 8
Bridge Cedar-wood 4
BASE Basil 8 and Clove 1-2
Total about 50 drops, let this age for 2 weeks, then adjust the formula to suit yourself, add the 95% neutral grape spirits as a diluent – about 150 drops for a 25% perfume percentage or 300 drops for a cologne percentage. Let it age again for several weeks before using.

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Safety Precautions ~ Limes when handled or cut and Lime oil cold-pressed are photosensitizing when used undiluted if you upon exposure to sun directly after application. They contain furanocoumarins, (natural chemicals found in certain essential oils). Be wary. Lime peel oil steam-distilled does not have the plant components that cause photosensitivity.

The juice is different from the oil.

SCIENCE ARTICLE ~ “Even though citrus is a common fruit and easy to use in daily consumption, it contains many beneficial substances for human health. It may be a miracle fruit. The phytochemical substances such as alkaloids, carotenoids, coumarins, essential oils, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and triterpenoids exist in citrus abundantly. All these substances have their board range of pharmacological properties, especially anticancer property. C. x aurantifolia was studied for its effect against carcinogenesis by mechanisms such as stopping cancer cell mobility in circulatory system; so, inhibiting the metastasis, blocking the angiogenesis, and inducing tumor suppressor gene and apoptosis. The present review suggests that C. x aurantifolia consumption may have a use for cancer therapy.⁵”

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REFERENCES
¹A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, unknown date
²https://www.britannica.com/plant/lime
³A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, 1997
⁴ Ohloff, Günther: SCENT AND FRAGRANCES: Springer-Verlag. 1990. Translated by Pickenhagen and Lawrence {this is the main source}
⁵Pharmacogn Rev. 2016 Jul-Dec; 10(20): 118–122.doi: 10.4103/0973-7847.194043. Anticancer Activity of Key Lime, Citrus aurantifoliabyNithithep Narang and Wannee Jiraungkoorskul
⁶ Changes in the Peel Oil Composition of Kagzi Lime (Citrus x aurantifolia Swingle) during Ripening
⁷Guenther: THE ESSENTIAL OILS, volume III, Citrus oils: Krieger. 1949.
⁸https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citrus

Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol [https://botannicals.com/shop/books/harvest-to-hydrosol ]
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. /books.html
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book. /books.html
Williams, David G.: THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS: Micelle Press. 1996.

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SOURCES

Essential Oils and Absolutes – EdenBotanicals.com offer over 260 botanical essential oils and extracts – including many that are rare and precious. All oils are obtained from aromatic plants grown with integrity and care. Their promise to you is that everything you purchase is of the highest quality and 100% guaranteed. Everyone is welcome to purchase oils and take advantage of bulk pricing.

Hydrosols Source – While Eden Botanicals also provides hydrosols, I am most happy to use https://www.positivelyaromatic.com/store/ for their gorgeous organically-grown and carefully hand-distilled hydrosols and essential oils that are the ones mentioned in this and my other citrus articles.
I also regularly use the trusted distilling skills of April Treona Lancaster of http://lancastercreations.com/ for many specialized organically-grown and locally sourced hydrosols.

Please support the people that support the earth.

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To Date ~ We have published the following blog posts on Bergamot , Grapefruit, Lemon, and will follow Lime with Mandarin/Tangerine/Clementine, Neroli, Orange and Blood Orange, Petitgrain, and Citrus odds and ends such as Yuzu.

Safety

LEMON Oil

Mar23

LEMON Essential Oil and/or Hydrosol Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ March 2019

Synopsis of Lemon Oil and the Plant ~ A complete description of Lemon, country of origin, characteristics,
skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this oil

Lemon Oil; cold-pressed, steam-distilled and Eden Botanical label oil — **Pretty Lemon oil — cold-pressed and steam distilled**

Lemon Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Lemon is Citrus x limon (L.) Osb. It Is a cross of C. medica with C. x aurantium and called Lemon. The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross and in this case several types of Citrus were crossed to eventually become “Lemon”. There are at least 25 different varieties of Lemon.

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Other Common Name/Naming Information and Etymology: There are many varieties of Lemon, several dozen in fact and each has its own quality. “In China, many Lemon varieties that are popularly cultivated are called landraces, and many of them are given local or vernacular names by the lemon growers. Scrutiny over the landrace names and their etymology suggests that a given lemon landrace might have a different name in different regions. This causes problems to breeders, commercial companies and farmers”⁴. To really give a proper name to a plant, you must use DNA markers.

Lemon, c. 1400, lymon, from Old French limon or “citrus fruit” (12 century.), which comes via Provençal or Italian from Arabic word laimun, or Persian word limun. Often yellow fruit is called ‘lemon’ while green fruit is called ‘lime’.

As an example, “Bearss Lemons, also called Lime, originated in Italy from a variety that is now extinct. It is like the Lisbon Lemon. The current version of the Bearss lemon (lime) originated in the early 50s in Florida and is a very popular variety for lemon-growers. It is a true Lemon, and it is high in Lemon oil. It is also popular because it produces high-quality fruit, a lot of Lemons on each tree, and because of its peel.”²

Bearss Lemons/Limes — **Bearss Lemons also called Lime — available at the market at the end of February – JR**

Family ~ Rutaceae, the Citrus family

Countries of Origins ~ Lemon tree is a species of small evergreen tree in the flowering family of Rutaceae, and it is native to South Asia and primarily to North eastern India. “The origin of the Lemon tree is a mystery . . . although some consider it a native of Southeast China, others consider Lemon to be a sport or hybrid of Citron and Lime. Not mentioned in the early Roman writings and unknown to the Romans, it was Introduced to the Middle East about A.D. 1100, and described in the arabic herbals. Columbus introduced the Citrus fruits into the Americas in 1493. Seeds were planted in Haiti and the Dominican Republic and Citrus trees soon spread throughout the area.” 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, p. 100-101.

Eden Botanicals Harvest Location ~ Italy

Endangered or Not ~ Not currently. This is an easily available oil and the cost is reasonable. Organic Lemon oil that is pressed from the peel can be obtained for as little as $185/kilogram.

**Two kinds of Lemon Hydrosol – whole and peel only**

General description of Plant habitat and growth ~ “Lemon is an ovate, pale yellow citrus fruit from a small species of evergreen tree. Apparently brought from India to the Levant by the Arabs 9 c. or 10 c.; the word is perhaps ultimately from an Austronesian word of the Malay Archipelago, such as Balinese limo “lemon,”¹

It is a tree growing up to 16 feet, with dark green leaves and branches which bear small “spines” (from which an essential oil of Lemon-Petitgrain is obtained). Always in bloom, the white flowers are highly perfumed. The fruits produced are pale yellow to dark yellow. The fruit used primarily for its juice is for both culinary and non-culinary purposes throughout the world and has both culinary and cleaning uses. The pulp and zest or rind is used in cooking and baking. The juice of the lemon is about 5% to 6% citric acid, with a pH of about 2.2, and that gives it a sour taste. It is a key ingredient in drinks and foods such as lemonade and yummy lemon meringue pie.

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields of Lemon oil ~
The peel is either expressed or steam-distilled. Various methods of expressing have different yields. “Expressing changes with location. Italian oils are a combo of machine and hand expression. Good lemon oil retains its fresh Lemon odor practically unchanged on the blotter until there is no odor left. Properly stored the odor of expressed Lemon oil can last for years. Lemon oil is often divided into fractions” — no amounts given, and this is from Arctander’s Perfume and Flavor.
“Three major chemotypes were distinguished for lemon peel oils: 1) limonene; 2) limonene/β-pinene/γ-terpinene; and 3) limonene/linalyl acetate/linalool.”⁵— Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry

            Yield of Lemon Oil ~ “1 ton of lemon fruit (8000-10,000 Lemons) will yield 14 lbs. of distilled oil, while cold-pressing will yield 6-7 lbs. of oil per ton;
Steam–distillation = 1 ton Lemon = 14 lbs. EO;
Cold-Expression = 1 ton Lemon fruit = 6-7 lbs. of EO” — The above is from Guenther “The Essential Oils”
            So there is no one answer to how many drops a lemon can produce from its peel. There are various varieties used of Citrus limon (Linn.) and each variety has different yields based on type of extraction whether it be expression or steam-distillation. There are no figures that I could find that said “x # of Lemons are in a ton”. My suggestion is to measure out a 10 lb. bag of lemons and count the number of fruit and then do the extrapolation. For food lemons there are 4-5 lemons per pound or 8000-10,000 Lemons per ton which equals 6-7 lbs. of oil.
            Anything on the internet about this is probably made up. So, get your best mathematician on this and they can extrapolate the answer based on the above and that there are 29.75 drops per mil and 29-30 mil per ounce. — Lovely math!!

Yield ~ 0.6-0.8% from the cold expression of the fresh fruit peel.

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Organoleptic Characteristics

Color – colorless to pale yellow to medium yellow (depends of whether cold-expressed or steam-distilled.
Clarity – clear
Viscosity – Non-viscous
Intensity of odor – 2 for cold-expressed and 1 for steam-distilled
Taste – bitter and sour

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment ~ The citrus scent of Lemon is distributed throughout the plant world in many types of plants such as Lemon Balm, Lemon Verbena, Lemon Catnip, Lemongrass, Lemon Thyme and Lemon Myrtle to mention a few. These plants are herbs, bushes, grasses, even trees. Lemon itself has a mild, fresh cleansing odor that is citrus-citrus top note, a slight floral heart note and very slightly herbal back note. You know it when you smell it. The Eureka Lemons are more strongly citrus or ‘lemon’ smelling than the Meyer Lemons. I prefer the scent of the cold-expressed peel of Lemon rather than the less interesting steam-distilled.

sweet Meyer Lemons — **Another type of sweet Meyer Lemon – JR**

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GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties and Uses ~ Citrus plants constitute one of the main valuable sources of essential oil used in foods and medicinal purposes. Properties are by AP=application, IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation.

Application: The essential oil when applied externally is an antibiotic, antiseptic, astringent, insect repellant, depurative, vermifuge and cicatrizing. Apply on some infections, acne, as an astringent and antiseptic, a cleanser, skin sores, infected wounds, insect bites, disinfectant, and with other oils for pain of rheumatism.

Ingestion; The Lemon essential oil should not be taken internally.

Inhalation: Inhale the crisp cheery scent of Lemon oil as a calmative, antidepressant, mild stimulant, digestive, antiseptic, febrifuge, and depurative (purifying and detoxifying effects).

Diffuse/Diffusion ~ Lemon oil is a good addition to many other oils in your diffusor. It is uplifting and invigorating. For clarity of thought add Rosemary to the Lemon, for uplifting your spirit add Basil or Spearmint, for a quiet calmness add Lemon oil to Spikenard.

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Emotional/Energetic Use: Use by inhalation for general fatigue and depression or physical exhaustion. Scott Cunningham mentions Lemon oil for use in ‘Moon oils’, for purification or to honor water magic.

Application in Skin Care ~ When used in combinations with other oils Lemon oil is cleansing and an astringent and particularly useful for oily skin.I have found it of great use in hand care and gave my recipe for hand cream in Kitchen Cosmetics, see page 73.

Eureka Lemons and Meyers Lemons — **2-kinds of Lemon. Eureka and Meyer -JR**

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SOME FORMULAS

Lemon Hand Cream

Squeeze a Lemon and strain the juice through a cloth. Pour the juice into a measuring cup and add an equal amount of Almond oil. Melt a small amount of beeswax (maybe a teaspoon) and add to the Lemon/Almond mixture a bit at a time — heat slowly and incorporate with the beeswax. Don’t let it burn. Stir and pour into a 4 oz jar and add 1-drop of Lemon oil. Stir in a figure-8 pattern* until integrated and cool. Cover. Do not disturb until fully cold. Rub a little of this on your hands whenever necessary. This is excellent to smooth and sooth rough hands. It is emollient and a texturizer.

*My mantra on stirring is “figure-8 around and around and figure-8 up and down”.

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HERBAL USES ~ Drinking Lemon juice will stimulate the white corpuscles in defense of the organism, with hot water and honey it will help to reduce fever, the juice repels internal parasites such as worms, it is a source for vitamin C, it is useful in infections or infective states and for asthma, flu, pneumonia, gargling for sore throat, tonsillitis, mouth inflammation, or for loss of appetite, urinary disturbance, dyspepsia, flatulence, burping, reducing fat in the obese, detoxification, general tonic and to purify water.

There are many ways to use Lemon juice and Lemon oil. A grandmother cure for colds and flu is to squeeze the juice of a Lemon into a cup, add hot water, a bit of honey and a shot of brandy, add a twist of Lemon peel which will give you some Lemon oil and drink this hot or cold. Hot will help you sweat that cold away and cold just tastes good. My Irish grandmother friend only used Irish whisky, my French mom only used cognac and my Italian godmother used Sambuca.” — The Aromatherapy Book, page 111.

We all have our regional recipes and choices.

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PERFUMERY with Lemon Oil. Blend with just about any oil. It gives an uplifting and happy quality to any blend and can be used in massage with any combination of oils. It is particularly effective in the top note of a perfume, especially with Grapefruit, Bergamot and other members of the citrus family. Try it with Bergamot, Black Pepper, a bridge of Cardamom; to smooth out the edges of Blue Chamomile or to enhance Roman chamomile. It smells delightful with Cistus and Elemi, and Coriander is a good bridge in a spicy perfume. It can also work well with Rose Geranium, conifers like Juniper or Fir absolute, and with the resins it enhances such as Frankincense, Galbanum, Labdanum and Oakmoss. Lemon is happy with florals such as Jasmine, Lavender, Neroli, Osmanthus, Rose, and YlangYlang. It is enhanced with Litsea cubeba, and base notes such as Patchouli, and Sandalwood are delighted to be paired with Lemon oil.

Remember there are two main types of Lemon oil, the steam-distilled, colorless and with very mild odor that I often call ‘white Lemon oil’ and the ‘yellow Lemon oil” from the cold-expression. I prefer the latter over the former because of the more intense lemon odor. There is also ‘green Lemon oil’ that has a slight pale green color, obtained from extracting under-ripe or green fruit.

2 types of lemon oil, cold-pressed and steam distilled — **Courtesy of Eden Botanicals**

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CITRUS TOP NOTE PERFUME & Succussion

TOP NOTE: 30 drops of a mixture of Grapefruit oil and Mandarin oil.
10-15 drops of fresh tart Lemon oil.
If you use the white Grapefruit or the green Mandarin your perfume will be brighter and cooler
than if you use pink Grapefruit and red Mandarin.
Lemon comes from green tart Lemons, or yellow more ripe Lemons.
The scent will reflect what you choose.

HEART NOTE: 20 drops of a mixture of Rose absolute and Orris root

BASE NOTE: 10 drops of Sandalwood oil and Ylang Extra.

Succuss the oils and let them age, then Succuss again.
If you like what you have made and wish to duplicate in the future,
make the perfume again but this time weigh the drops to get a weight measurement.
Your future perfumes will be a better duplicate than one made from volume alone.

Add your carrier and succuss again.

Remember that there are at least 3 kinds of Grapefruit, 3 kinds of Mandarin, 10 kinds of Rose absolute,
4 kinds of Sandalwood. Depending on which you use will result in many different scents,
all pleasant but all different.

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SUCCUSSION (mixing up from below)is the act of vigorously shaking your initial perfume blend to make a new scent called a synergy. Let it age a week or two. Finish off the perfume with additions if you need too. Then add the carrier. I suggest 95% neutral grape spirits to enhance the light cheerful scent. Although www.alcsol.com also carries Orange alcohol and others, you can substitute 25% of this to 75% grape spirits for a total of 210 drops.

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Super large Eureka Lemon compared to a regular-size Eureka Lemon along with the Eureka Lemon hydrosol from Positively Aromatic

HYDROSOL ~I have used several Lemon hydrosols — from Lancaster Creations and Positively Aromatic. They are distilled from whole fruit and from the rind. They are each perfect in their own way. The fruit is a California style bright yellow color and has a wonderful odor. The hydrosol is wonderful for my slightly oily skin and very soothing and a tonic to the skin.

There are 25 types of Lemon and I have been able to try at least three of them as hydrosols. I have used the Lisbon peel hydrosol and the Eureka peel hydrosol, both of which I found very helpful as a spray on the face and in/on eyes to soothe my aching eyes after a day of computer work. Also, they were more helpful as an eye spray to treat a stye than the hydrosol of the whole fruit. The whole fruit hydrosol of Meyer lemon was wonderful as a body spray and in the bath and the odor is entirely different from the peel when distilled.
Eureka Lemon – The Eureka lemon (Citrus x limon Eureka) is an evergreen tree that produces pink-fleshed lemons all year round. The exterior of the young lemons are yellow with green streaks and then mature to a pale yellow when ready for harvest.
Lisbon lemon is one of the most widely grown lemon trees in California and is planted extensively throughout the citrus-growing regions of the world. The Lisbon lemon grows vigorously into large, thorny, upright but spreading trees. It is believed to be a Gallego seedling selection of Portuguese origin.
Meyer Lemon – Citrus × meyeri, the Meyer lemon, is a hybrid citrus fruit native to China. It is a cross between a citron and a mandarin/pomelo hybrid distinct from the common or bitter oranges. Mature trees are around 6 to 10 ft tall with dark green shiny leaves. Flowers are white with a purple base and fragrant.

3 types of hydrosol, from Eureka Lemon, Lisbon lemon, Meyer lemon — **3 kinds of Hydrosol**

I really like to use the Lemon peel Hydrosol as a facial and eye spray especially after working on the computer all day. It is very refreshing and stops eye exhaustion.

bottle of Lemon hydrosol — **Lemon hydrosol – JR**

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol is distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

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HISTORICAL USES ~ Lemon juice is used as an adjunct cure for colds and flu, to extract calcium from an eggshell (page 111 from The Aromatherapy Book), and as a disinfectant.

Do not drink Lemon oil – it is not the same as the juice.

INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ “The pulp of Lemon gives Lemon juice and citric acid and is used culinarily and as medicine, specifically for scurvy. It kills AIDS virus and is an efficient contraceptive as it kills sperm [citric acid in ejaculate], so used by prostitutes since the 18^th century”³ for this reason. There are many cultivars.
The tree was introduced in California in 1887. “The oil is effective in removing ink stains and polishing metal, and as a solvent for computers. The juice is a source of citric acid. For many years the British Navy was required to provide sailors with one ounce daily, to alleviate scurvy and other vitamin-deficiency problems. The essential oil is full of vitamins and minerals. Used diffused in the atmosphere in banks and other commercial buildings in Japan to reduce work error” Essential aromatherapy, p. 143.

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THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS

KEY USE ~ Antiseptic, bactericide, digestive and insect repellant. I call it the “Oil of Slimming” ©

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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ D-Limonene, Pinene, Citral, Gamma-Terpinene, Phellandrene, Citronellal, and Citropten (a lactone called 5,7-Dimethoxycoumarin). D-Limonene is a common naturally occurring compound with a citrus scent and often present in Lemon oil up to 60%. It is often used as an additive in food products and fragrances and is classified by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS).

Physiochemical Properties ~ Solubility – Lemon oil is soluble in 3 volumes of 95% alcohol and more.
Specific Gravity at 25°/25° – 0.849 to 0.855

CONTRAINDICATIONS ~ One of the main components of Lemon peel oil is D-Limonene, a common naturally occurring compound with a citrus scent. It is used as an additive in food products and fragrances and is classified by the FDA as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS). It has been known to cause contact dermatitis.

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ABSTRACT/SCIENTIFIC DATA ~ Peel oils of lemon, grapefruit and navel orange were tested for insecticidal activities against larvae and adults of Culex pipiens and Musca domestica. Lemon peel oil was the most effective against larvae and adults of C. pipiens. Grapefruit peel oil was more toxic to adults of M. domestica while lemon oil, was more toxic Musca larvae. On the other hand, the orange peel oil was the least effective against larvae and adults of both species. The toxicity of oils applied to larval stages was extended to pupal and adult stages. C. pipiens adults appeared with paralyzed legs, while M domestica adults appeared normal. The weights of pupae treated as larvae were generally less than that of the control. All oils produced deleterious effects on fecundity of survivors of sublethal doses. The effect was obviously recorded in treated adults. Treatment of Culex & Musca with oils caused serious latent effect. — Insecticidal properties of citrus oils against Culex pipiens and Musca domestica. (PMID:9707687). — Shalaby AA, Allam KA, etc.• Journal of the Egyptian Society of Parasitology [01 Aug 1998, 28(2):595-606]

Citrus Names Seem to Change Regularly, these are the most up-to-date names for the citrus as of late 2015 when the Taxonomical Congress met. I am sorry to say that I am unable to locate the original source of this colorful chart.

citrus scientific names — Current citrus names, Author unknown

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

DO NOT APPLY COLD-PRESSED LEMON OIL TO SKIN PRIOR TO SUN EXPOSURE. It may cause photosensitivity. This means it could cause serious skin damage when exposed to the sun such as redness, itching, burns, blisters, and permanent skin discoloration. Steam-distilled Lemon oil does not contain the plant material that causes photosensitivity.

There are hundreds of pages of excellent information on the web from many scientific sources. The Essential Oils by Guenther contains over 30 pages of information regarding Lemon oil. It is an amazing resource for Lemon oil and the Citrus oils in general. There is much information to digest in these two places and I suggest you read what is available.

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References:

¹ https://www.etymonline.com/word/lemon

²popoptiq.com/types-of-lemons/

³ Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
⁴ Employment of a new strategy for identification of lemon (Citrus limon L.) cultivars using RAPD markers. Q Mu, X Sun, G Zhong, X Wang… – African Journal, 2012 – academicjournals.org

⁵Volatile Components of Peel and Leaf Oils of Lemon and Lime Species. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2002, 50, 4, 796-80
⁶Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume III.Krieger. 1974

Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, CA.
Rose, Jeanne. Kitchen Cosmetics. San Francisco, CA.
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992

perfume symbol 'rising up' — **Rising Up**

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GRAPEFRUIT ESSENTIAL OIL

Feb21

GRAPEFRUIT ESSENTIAL OIL

By Jeanne Rose ~ 2019

Synopsis ~ Grapefruit EO & Plant ~ A complete description, country of origin, characteristics, skin care, formulas and recipes on how to use this oil as well as facts and fantasies not yet known.

Grapefruit essential oil, two kinds of Grapefruit and Grapefruit jam. — **Essential oils courtesy of Eden Botanicals**

Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Grapefruit is Citrus paradisi, Citrus x aurantium (2015), sometimes called Citrus medica.

Other Common Name/Naming Information ~ The Grapefruit group of citrus originates from a back cross of C. paradisi with a female of C. maxima and a more up-to-date Latin binomial is Citrus x aurantium. Citrus maxima (Citrus grandis), the Pomelo, is a parent of our essential oil producing Grapefruit but is not used itself for EO production.

Family ~ Rutaceae, the Citrus family

Origins: South Africa, USA, Iran, Brazil, and Israel. Grapefruit originated in China or maybe the West Indies. Disputed history shows “careful search has not found it a native of the Olde Worlde”⁵.

Eden Botanicals Harvest Location ~ The white Grapefruit and pink Grapefruit fruit are harvested in the USA while the ruby red Grapefruit is harvested in Israel.

General description of Plant habitat and growth ~ Grapefruit is a small tree with dark, evergreen leaves and large, creamy white flowers and large, yellow or pinkish fruits that ripen from December to March.

Grapefruit has a thick rind and large sections. Its skin called the flavedo is thick, firm, and fragrant; the pulp is white to red in color and acidic. Grapefruit trees produce the best quality fruit on sandy, relatively fertile soils in a warm humid climate. Supplementary fertilization is necessary in practically all producing areas. The trees come into bearing early and should produce commercially profitable crops by the fourth to sixth year after they are planted in the orchard. Mature trees may produce remarkably large crops—585 to 675 kg (1,290 to 1,490 pounds) of fruit per tree. Grapefruit consists of flavedo (outer layer with essential oil glands), albedo (white inner rind) and oval-shaped meat.²

Endangered or Not ~ Not currently.

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields ~ The oil is located deep within the flavedo of the peel and is thick. The Grapefruit does not produce large quantities of oil because of this thickness from the flavedo. The fresh peel is cold-pressed and contains up to 90% limonene.

Yield – 0.5-1.0%

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Grapefruit ~ Organoleptic Characteristics of EO of Grapefruit

Color of EO	Almost colorless for white Grapefruit; yellow color for pink Grapefruit and dark yellow for ruby red Grapefruit
Clarity	Clear
Viscosity	Non-Viscous and like water
Taste	Bitter, sour (tastes like the tart, bitter rind of a Grapefruit with white, rough, ridged and pebbly skin.)
Intensity of Odor 1-10 with 1= lowest	4

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment ~ Grapefruit Oil
“The peel of (Citrus paradisi Macfaden) or Grapefruit oil is cold pressed. The fresh, fruity top-note is due to p-menth-1-en-8-thiol. This component is present only in very low amounts. Grapefruit oil is sesquiterpene rich, which is unusual in citrus oils. Nootkatone is mainly responsible for the odor of the Grapefruit and contributes to the bitter flavor of the juice. Linaloöl oxides, is in many essential oils, and constitute the second most important class of compounds. Also found in the essential oil is epoxycaryophyllene, first found in Verbena oil, possesses a pleasant woody, balsamic odor. “(Scent & Fragrance by Gunther Ohloff)³

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GENERAL PROPERTIES

GRAPEFRUIT fruit and EO is for both IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application. We eat Grapefruit as food and take it as a tonic for the gall bladder. EO of pink grapefruit is sweet, warming while the white grapefruit is tart, and cooling. We use this oil as an astringent externally for skin and hair de-greaser, and inhaled for refreshment, and as a spray to disinfectant a room.

INGESTION – The juice of Grapefruit is a popular food source especially for breakfast and is effective in controlling sugar metabolism and as a slimming aid. It is a tonic for the gall bladder, and it is digestive, antioxidant and depurative. Studies have shown the pink and red varieties of Grapefruit contain higher amounts of antioxidants than the yellow or white kind.

*If you take statins or heart medication, confer with your doctor before you eat Grapefruit or drink the juice. There are several medications that are problematic.

PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED (IG or AP) – Externally, Grapefruit oil in a blend alleviates muscle fatigue and stiffness. I use it in a facial toner for its astringency, or on acne, as it stimulates lifeless skin. Apply Grapefruit oil neat as a treatment for herpes, in applications on the body as it can aids in cellulite reduction, and fluid retention, and use it as a disinfectant.

Application ~ Astringent, antiseptic, depurative, and anti-infectious. Do not use Grapefruit oil or any citrus oil in your bath as it will burn upon contact with your lady parts. Remember essential oils float in water, and when you step into the tub, the floating oils come into contact to whatever parts of your skin they touch first. Read other citrus oils and Lemon at https://jeanne-blog.com/lemon-oil/

•

SKINCARE FORMULA

Grapefruit & Elemi Skin Cream for Oily Skin
I like to make a simple skin cream with a few simple ingredients.
Start with ½ cup Avocado butter or Coconut oil and then add
Add 1 oz (by volume) of Marula or Argan oil. Now you will want to
Add 5 drops Grapefruit Oil and 5 drops Elemi Oil and
Add a small scoop (1 T.) of Aloe Vera pulp (no peel)
And blend with a hand blender.
That’s it! Use once a day after cleansing.
Keep refrigerated.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Add to your blends for inhalation for uses as a tonic, restorative, and antidepressant.

•

EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USE ~ Inhaled, Grapefruit oil may relieve hangovers, headaches, mental exhaustion, anxiety and depression, and used externally or by inhalation in a blend for menstrual difficulties, such as PMS and menopause. The scent is very uplifting and antiseptic and makes for a great air freshener.

Grapefruit along with other citrus is for the 3^rd Chakra, the spleen area, it vibrates in yellow and the complementary stone is citrine. It is uplifting and calming as well.

Formula for Tattered Nerves. Use equal amounts of Bergamot, Grapefruit (white or pink) and Lemon, about 30 drops of each and to the final formula add 1 drop of Nutmeg. Succuss and apply to a hanky from which you will inhale as needed.

•

YOGA PRACTICE ~ Tricia Cruz has a yoga practice and uses essential oils for various purpose. One of her blends called “Clean and Clear” contains Pink Grapefruit/Rosemary (Citrus paradisi/Rosmarinus officinalis). She sprinkles this on her towel to improve focus and clarity in her practice.

• • • •

Citrus vinegar with white and pink Grapefuit peel, mandarin peel and lemon peel and white vinegar. — Citrus Vinegar with white and pink Grapefruit peel ~
1 peel of pink Grapefruit + 1 peel of white Grapefruit + 1 peel on Mandarin

•

HERBAL USES OF GRAPEFRUIT

Citrus Vinegar – An Herbal-Home Remedy
for Cleaning and Mold Removal.

I have been making this vinegar for housecleaning for over 30 years. I have written about it in my Herbal Studies Course, online and in articles. In 1990, I had to clean the smelly walls of a home where someone had lived for 30 years without repainting or cleaning. They had a septic system and rather than using toxic chemicals, I used only Citrus Grapefruit Vinegar with Rosemary Hydrosol. The walls came clean, the septic system was undamaged, and the place took on a fresh and clean odor.

TO MAKE: Purchase a gallon of the cheapest white vinegar (best to buy in glass). As you eat lemons, oranges and especially grapefruit, use only the peel (flavedo) and roll the peels up and put into the vinegar bottle. Your vinegar will get the added benefits of the antibacterial citrus peels as well as the clean citrus fragrance. It is good to start with the peel of one Grapefruit, one Orange and one Lemon – but anything will do. Try to remove as much albedo (white underside of peel) as you can. When the vinegar is all gone, the bottle will be full of peels and you can just discard them in your compost pile and recycle the bottle. You can also add 16 oz. of water to the now empty citrus/vinegar bottle and make a spray to clean small surfaces.

I use this Citrus vinegar to clean all surfaces, stoves, porcelain, wood floors, wood chopping tables, dusty woodwork, door knobs, etc. This will clean and kill mold in your bathroom, basement, attic and other closed places. It will deodorize and kill any bad odor.

~ ~ ~

You can also make a good cleanser and deodorizer by wiping the porcelain surfaces with baking soda and then adding the vinegar from your Citrus Vinegar bottle. You can keep drains clear by using baking soda and vinegar. Every two weeks pour 1-2 cups baking soda down all the drains and follow with 1 cup of plain white or citrus vinegar. Follow 2 hours later by pouring 2 quarts of boiling water down the drain. It will fizz, bubble, and keep the drains funk free and smelling good.

•

Grapefruit Seed Extract – Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) or citrus seed extract is a supplement made from the seeds and pulp of grapefruit. It’s rich in essential oils and antioxidants and has been thought to have a variety of potential health benefits. It may be a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, disinfectant and preservative. It is used to promote the healing of almost any atypical skin condition. This product does not work as some hav claim. Other experts suggest that you used 10% alcohol (95% neutral grain spirits) for preservation. There is an excellent article about Grapefruit Seed Extract at “Aspects of the antimicrobial efficacy of grapefruit seed extract and its relation to preservative substances contained. (PMID:10399191)”. It states that 6 commercially available grapefruit seed extracts were tested; 3 also contained triclosan and methyl paraben; only one of the extracts were found to contain NO preservative agent and no antimicrobial activity could be detected; that the “antimicrobial activity being attributed to grapefruit seed extract is merely due to the synthetic preservative agents contained within. Natural products with antimicrobial activity do not appear to be present”.⁶

Physiochemical Properties ~ Solubility ~ Grapefruit EOis incompletely soluble in 90% alcohol up to 10 vol. owing to the separation of its natural wax.⁵

Chemical Components of Grapefruit oil ~ D-Limonene, Gamma-Terpinene, Nootketone, Cadinene, Neral, methyl anthranilate and Citronellal. Grapefruit mercaptan, a sulfur-containing terpene, is one of the substances which has a strong influence on the taste and odor of grapefruit. Nootkatone, aka, nootketone, is a natural organic compound and is the most important and expensive aromatic of grapefruit. It is a sesquiterpene and a ketone. Nootketone was previously thought to be one of the main chemical components of the smell and flavor of grapefruits.

Grapefruit after distillation also produces a wax. Substance in the cuticle wax of the fruit which is dissolved by the oil appears during cold pressing.

•

Keeping Qualities of Citrus Oils ~ “Citrus oils kept in well-filled, well-stoppered, dark colored bottles and stored in a cool, dark place retain their original delicate flavor for years, but access of air or light, especially in the presence of traces of water, easily spoils citrus oils.”⁵ They oxidize, get an acid character, and piney odor and viscosity and specific gravity increase.

• • • •

Blends Best ~ Grapefruit blends with many oils including Basil, especially the non-carvacrol types; all Citrus oils and citrus smelling oils such as Clary Sage but especially Bergamot and Lemon; spicey oils such as Black Pepper, Cardamom, Clove, Coriander, Frankincense, Ginger and others; conifer oils such as Cypress and some Junipers and especially true Cedar (Cedrus atlantica); grass oils such as Citronella, Palmarosa and Vetivert, flower oils such as Chamomile and Roman Chamomile, Lavender, Neroli, Jasmine, Ylang and Rose; and herbaceous oils such as Peppermint and Rosemary (verbenone type).

“Grapefruit essential oil is quite useful in Citrus compositions and for all modifications of citrus notes in perfumery.^“It is used in the Top note in citrus and cologne blends with Bergamot to impart fresh non-green sharpness, body and tenacity.”³

White Grapefruit is a crisper ‘cooler’ scent than the pink or Ruby red Grapefruit.

5 types of Grapefruit essential oil that was cold-pressed from white Grapefruit peel, pink Grapefruit peel and ruby red Grapefruit peel — **Grapefruit oil courtesy of Eden Botanicals**

Blending with Citrus Notes ~ In the perfumery business the citrus notes impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They are in the blends up to 25% as the base for classic types of eau de cologne and other perfumes. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils and I use them in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes.

“In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender which is an 1826 creation. High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also, of importance are the citrus oils in soda drinks like Coca-Cola and others.”³

CITRUS TOP NOTE PERFUME

Top note: 30 drops of a mixture of Grapefruit oil and Mandarin oil.
If you use the white Grapefruit or the green Mandarin your perfume will be brighter and cooler than if you use pink Grapefruit and red Mandarin.

Heart note: 20 drops of a mixture of Rose absolute and Orris root

Base note: 10 drops of Sandalwood oil and Ylang Extra

•

Remember that there are 3 kinds of Grapefruit, 3 kinds of Mandarin, 20 kinds of Rose absolute, 4 kinds of Sandalwood. Depending on which you use will result in many different scents, all pleasant but all different.

•

HYDROSOL ~ I have not yet had the opportunity to experience a Grapefruit hydrosol.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol is distilled specifically for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components, lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using the dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

•

Historical Uses ~ Antiseptic.

paragraph from an historical text of 1750 — **from an Historical text**

Interesting Facts ~ Some histories suggest that Grapefruit “was introduced into the West Indies from China by Captain Shaddock and the fruit was thereafter known as ‘Shaddock fruit’. In 1809 the seeds traveled with Spanish settlers to the United States. Grapefruit was in the United States commercially beginning in 1880. In many parts of the world the waste products of this and other citrus fruits are ground and used as animal fodder”¹

Jeanne Rose perfumery bottle. — **Jeanne Rose perfume bottle**

Jeanne Rose’s Grapefruit Tomato Tales EO:

I made over 25 different aromatherapy kits over the last 35 years. One of these I called, “The Woman’s Kit” and contained both Grapefruit and Clary Sage. I used the Grapefruit/Clary Sage mix as follows: Inhaled is an adrenal stimulant, eased depression, to reduce hot flashes, to help the new mother relax. It was mildly intoxicating and with Geranium was a great inhalant for menopause symptoms, to ease nervousness, and to soothe PMS symptoms. This mixture was relaxing and euphoric and with Ylang-Ylang was an excellent inhaler and application for menstrual irregularities and for ‘grounding’.

Externally applied in products, this combination regenerates skin, reduces wrinkles and when you add Rosemary oil is applied to hair roots to stimulate growth. I have used a drop or two on a moist washcloth after a bath (wiping down the body after rinsing) for health and relaxation, diluted or with Clary Sage hydrosol to spray on the face for hot skin and during hot flashes. In a massage blend it assisted in the labor process and seemed to strengthen the inner organs. I consider Grapefruit and Clary Sage to be very good for all menstrual disorders.

Internally, I occasionally used one drop in warm water as gargle for sore throat.

•

Abstract/Scientific Data ~ Nootkatone, a characteristic constituent of grapefruit, stimulates energy metabolism and prevents diet-induced obesity by activating AMPK AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) is a serine/threonine kinase that is implicated in the control of energy metabolism. — 2010 – physiology.org

Medicinal Importance of Grapefruit Juice. Grapefruit juice is consumed widely in today’s health conscious world as a protector against cardiovascular diseases and cancers. It has however, been found to be an inhibitor of the intestinal cytochrome P – 450 3A4 system, which is responsible for the first pass metabolism of many drugs. The P – glycoprotein pump, found in the brush border of the intestinal wall which transports many of these cytochrome P – 450 3A4 substrates, has also been implicated to be inhibited by grapefruit juice. By inhibiting these enzyme systems, grapefruit juice alters the pharmacokinetics of a variety of medications, leading to elevation of their serum concentrations.⁴

Key Use ~ Antiseptic, skin care and tonic for the gall bladder.

•

Resources ~ Many thanks to Eden Botanicals for the lovely Grapefruit oils they supplied for my organoleptic studies.

pink flesh with yellow rind of Pomelo — **pink flesh Pomelo**

References

¹Essential Aromatherapy, p. 137.
²https://www.britannica.com/plant/grapefruit
³Ohloff, Günther: SCENT AND FRAGRANCES: Springer-Verlag. 1990. Translated by Pickenhagen and Lawrence
⁴ https://nutritionj.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1475-2891-6-33
⁵Guenther: THE ESSENTIAL OILS, volume III, Citrus oils: Krieger. 1949
⁶ Aspects of the antimicrobial efficacy of grapefruit seed extract and its relation to preservative substances contained.. (PMID:10399191)

Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose. 1992
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Oxford English Dictionary, 2nd ed., Oxford University Press, 2000
Rose, Jeanne: 375 ESSENTIAL OILS AND HYDROSOLS; Frog, Ltd. 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California:
Staff of L.H. Baily Hortorium, Hortus Third: A Concise Dictionary of Plants. Macmillan Publishing Co., New York, 1976.

General Resources

• Williams, David G.: THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS: Micelle Press. 1996.

• Another Fresh Start – Lunar New Year. Leaflet, Newsletter of the Strybing Arboretum. Winter 2002, Volume 26, No. 1.

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Safety Precautions ~ “A phototoxic reaction typically shows up as an exaggerated sunburn, usually occurring within 24 hours of sun exposure” as stated by the Skin Cancer Foundation. The primary essential oil culprits are typically cold-pressed citrus oils: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Orange, Wild Orange, and Tangerine.

If you take statins or heart medications do not drink Grapefruit juice unless you discuss this with your medical doctor.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

OPOPANAX RESIN EO Profile

Dec17

Synopsis ~ The oleo-gum-resin of Opopanax resin EO is a ‘tear’ has no scent and can be handled like a fragile rock. There are confusing names associated with Opopanax that have to do with historical references but are clarified in the article by Jeanne Rose.

Three types of essential oil of Opopanax resin EO, with two lumps of raw resin. — **Opopanax is an oleo-gum-resin. EO courtesy of Eden Botanicals and pieces of resin**

INTRODUCTION ~ Opopanax resin EO is another of the famous resins of the Orient; see also Myrrh and Olibanum (frankincense) on my blog https://jeanne-blog.com It is an Oleo-gum-resin, a term to describe oleo (oily or fatty in nature or look) gum (partly soluble in water) resin (partly or wholly soluble in alcohol). Therefore, an oleo-gum-resin has a nature that is partly soluble in water and alcohol and partly soluble in oil and looks oily. Consists mainly of oil, gum, and resin. It is liquid as it exudes and solidifies on contact with air and can be liquefied with alcohol. Examples are Myrrh, Frankincense, and Opopanax. https://jeanne-blog.com/resin-resinoids-gums-eo/

EO Profile & Naming •Latin Binomial/Botanical ~ Opopanax is an ancient tree resin and many species are called Opopanax including Commiphora erythraea var. glabrescens (C. opobalsamum). Species includes Commiphora erythraea, C.guidottii, C. kataf, C. glabrescens, C. holtiziana and C. pseudopaoli. Opopanax is closely related to Myrrh, they are in the same genus but different species. The common name of Opopanax is a source of confusion in pharmacognosy and books, since three different products bear this name. Thus, O. chironium (Apiaceae) is not to be confused with perfumery’s opopanax, a gum-resin obtained from Commiphora erythraea var. glabrescens of the family Burseraceae. Here it is most important that you know exactly what plant you want by Latin name and then common name and not the other way around.

Family ~Burseraceae. All members of this family are resinous. This species of the genus Commiphora are thorny bushes and small trees. We are not discussing the plants called opopanax from the Umbellifer (Apiaceae) family.

Endangered or Not ~ Some species of Opopanax are listed as critically endangered.

Countries of Origin ~ The Opopanax that I most carefully studied was from Eden Botanicals. The botanical name was Commiphora erythraea var. glabrescens (a synonym of Commiphora gorinii Chiov.) and the country of origin was Somalia and it was distilled in Morocco.

Naming & Etymology ~ Other Names are Bisabol Myrrh, Balm of Mecca. The term “Opopanax”, meaning “all healing juice”, is a source of confusion, since it is also used for the gum latex from several Umbellifer species, Ferula opopanax, also known as Opopanax chironium (Umbelliferae aka Apiaceae family), e.g. from Opopanax chironium (Pastinaca opopanax)(Umbelliferae). It is indigenous to the Mediterranean area. Know what you want.

There are over a 100 species of Commiphora which includes the species called Myrrh and Opopanax. There is much confusion for the consumer in this group of plants.

General description of plant, habitat & growth ~ OPOPANAX: A resin, Commiphora erythraea var. glabrescens (C. opobalsamum) family (Burseraceae) Bisabol Myrrh, Balm of Mecca. This is another of the famous resins of the Orient; see also Myrrh and Olibanum (frankincense).

Etymology: The term “Opopanax”, meaning “all healing juice”, (is a source of confusion, since this word is also used for the gum latex from several Umbellifer, see above in naming. All members of this family are resinous. The genus Commiphora are thorny bushes and small trees. They are important elements of the African dry-land vegetation.

Opopanax grows in Somalia (Africa’s Horn). It is a viscous exudate obtained by breaking the twigs. It solidifies to brown lumps of a warm-balsamic and sweet, honey-like fragrance. A resinoid is prepared by solvent extraction, and steam distillation of the resin gives an essential oil. They are both used in perfumes of the Oriental type. The main constituents of Opopanax oil are sesquiterpene hydrocarbons like alpha-santalene, alpha-bergamotene, and (Z)-alpha-bisabolene. According to Arctander, the olfactory difference between Myrrh oil and Opopanax oil is the vegetable-soup-like, slightly animalic-sweet odor of Opopanax oil compared with the medicinal-sharp freshness of Myrrh oil.

In Kenya, “Hagar is oily resin exudate from the stems of Commiphora holtziana. It oozes out and hardens to form lumps of various sizes and shapes with variable color from yellow to dark brown or black. Locally, Hagar is used as acaricide against ticks, snakebites, scorpions, foot rot, mange, and other livestock ailments. Commercially, it is a well-established herbal medicine, and used in essential oils and cosmetics.²”

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield ~ The resin comes from the exudation from the bark. A resinoid is prepared from the resin by solvent extraction. Steam distillation of the resin gives the essential oil, which has a pleasant, warm, sweet, balsamic odor. Quality Opopanax has to be distilled from selected raw material and that requires knowledge of the plant. Much of this oil is ruined by poor distillation by inexperienced distillers who then sell their product. Opopanax oil and resinoid are used in perfumes with oriental style. An IFRA recommendation exists.

Yield ~ About 5 kilos of resin is required to yield one kilo of Opopanax essential oil.

Organoleptic Characteristics

	Color:	Pale Yellow
	Clarity:	clear
	Viscosity:	Non-viscous
	Taste:	bitter
	Intensity of Odor:	On a scale of 1-10, it is medium, about a 6-7.

Odor Description ~ Strongly spicy, vegetative, fruity and with a sharp spicy odor and somewhat animal-like undertone.

Solubility~ Opopanax is soluble in 10 volumes of 70% alcohol and some types are hazy in 10 volumes of 90% alcohol.

Chemical Components ~ A resinoid is prepared by solvent extraction, and steam distillation of the resin gives an essential oil. They are both used in perfumes of the Oriental type.

The main constituents of Opopanax oil are sesquiterpene hydrocarbons like alpha-santalene, alpha-bergamotene, and (Z)-alpha-bisabolene. According to Arctander, the olfactory difference between Myrrh oil and Opopanax oil is the vegetable-soup-like, slightly animalic-sweet odor of Opopanax oil compared with the medicinal-sharp freshness of myrrh.

GENERAL PROPERTIES OF OPOPANAX

Opopanax has been used in the past as an antispasmodic and when taken internally able to clear or open the natural ducts of the fluids and secretions of the body as an aperient.

Physical Uses & How used (AP) ~ Application ~ C. erythraea gums have been used for centuries in folk medicine for the treatment of cuts, bruises.

Extract of the gum of Commiphora erythraea Engler (Burseraceae), has larvicidal and repellent activity against the lone star tick, Amblyomma americanum (L.) and the American dog tick³

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN) ~ As with any of the resins they are often used by inhalation for calming and centering, to begin or end a ritual, or to modify another scent or in worship and purification.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Since Opopanax resin EO is from a resinous material it can be diffused by using a FanFuser on the scent disc but not from a glass enclosed diffuser — as the resin will clog the diffuser. The scent should be used as an accessory odor not the primary odor.

It is burned or inhaled in ritual for protection, for calming, for adding to another odor to make it more powerful, for cleansing and purification.

BLENDING &PERFUMERY ~ Its [Opopanax] power and ‘growth’ in a perfume is often underestimated; unless perfectly balanced with modifying and supporting materials, Opopanax oil has a tendency of ‘showing up’ in a rather unattractive manner after a short ageing period of the perfume. It blends well with “woody and heavy floral perfume bases, chypre, fougére-fern, leather and Oriental bases.”— Arctander.

“Used in perfumery industries, the essential oils prepared from the resins are well known. The essential oil of C. erythraea var. glabrescens, known as “opopanax”, is used in perfume of the Oriental type. The term “opopanax” is a source of confusion, since it is often used for the oil of different Commiphora genera, and for the gum latex oil of some Umbelliferae, for example Opopanax chironium.”¹

As with other resins, Opopanax resin EO is used in perfumery as a fixative and for its quiet balsamic note and often used in the base note for exotic scents.

Opopanax blends well with Bergamot, Conifer needle oils, Coriander seed, fern scents, Labdanum, leather scents, Clary Sage and Patchouli.

HYDROSOL ~ I have not as yet ever experienced an Opopanax hydrosol.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, and by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh to extract as much cellular water of the plant as possible.

Key Use~ Mainly natural Botanical Perfumery

Historical Uses ~ The original Opopanax that is discussed historically is the Umbellifer type and this might have been used in embalming. It is erroneously thought that the Opopanax we use at this time from family Burseraceae had the same use — however, this is not true.

Interesting Facts ~ Some aspects of the Opopanax may be used in the flavoring industry.

Science article ~ Chemical Composition of the Essential Oil of Commiphora erythraea, 2009 • The essential oil composition of Commiphora erythraea (Ehrenb) Engl. is reported for the first time. The oil is rich in sesquiterpenes, particularly furanosesquiterpenes (50.3%). GC-MS analysis of the oil permitted differentiation between C. erythraea and C. kataf, two often confused species.

References:

¹Marcotullio, Maria Carla * and etc. Chemical Composition of the Essential Oil of Commiphora erythraea. 2009
²Francis N. Gachathi, and Siri Eriksen. Gums and resins: The potential for supporting sustainable adaptation in Kenya’s drylands.
³An extract of Commiphora erythraea: a repellent and toxicant against ticks, J.F.Carroll , A.Maradufu , J.D. Warthen Jr., December 1989, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1570-7458.1989.tb01294

Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of NaturalOrigin. Elizabeth, NJ. 1960
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publ. Malabar, FL 1972
Langenheim, Jean H. Plant Resins. Timber Press, Portland. 2003. This is the best book on the subject
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book

Use the essential oils in moderation.

Use the herb tea or resin when it is more appropriate.
Irritants: There is a moderate risk of skin sensitization, avoid use on hypersensitive, or damaged skin and on children less than 10 years of age; a maximum dermal use level of 0.6% is recommended. Dilute before using. Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Note: I would normally have underlined the word Opopanax so that wherever you see it you will be aware of which plant I am talking about. However, I was unable to do so with this blog post. I always try to capitalize the name of the herb or essential oil so that you will know I am speaking of the plant and not that particular color or taste.

Comments: I want to thank Eden Botanicals for their ongoing assistance to provide the new essential oils for these essential oil blog posts as well as their support to provide better information for the entire aromatherapy community.

Moderation in All Things.
Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.
Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2014

MASTIC EO & Herb Resin

Oct26

Synopsis ~ Mastic EO & Herb resin to understand the nature of Mastic; its description, distillation methods, particular plant properties, uses, and science.

MASTIC Essential Oil &/or Herb Resin Profile

By Jeanne Rose and other sources ~ 2018

Mastic cream & Oleoresin

INTRODUCTION ~ This is the last of the resins, I will discuss. Mastic EO & Herb resin. In prior months I have written about Amber, Balsam of Peru/Tolu, Benzoin/Storax, Elemi, Frankincense, Galbanum, Labdanum/Cistus, Myrrh, Opopanax and also a general article about Resins. I love the resins; I love to burn them for magic and ritual and above all use the essential oils of them in healing blends and via inhalation. I hope that you have enjoyed the series. If you missed any, please go to the ‘Home’ page and look up the resin you wish to read about.

Common Name/Latin Binomial: Gum Mastic / (Pistacia lentiscus L.) is an oleoresin with very little oil obtained from a flowering shrub.

Other Common Name/Naming Information: Mastic also called Gum Mastic / (Pistacia lentiscus L.) or Chios Mastic Gum in Greece. The word “masticate” comes from an ancient Greek word from the Greek practice of chewing this interestingly flavorful resin as a gum and in addition to freshen the breath and to fight tooth decay.

Family: Anacardiaceae

Countries of Origins: Mastic EO & Herb resin is known from Greece, but grows in Mediterranean Europe and Northern Africa Algeria, Morocco and the Canary Islands. Only the true Mastic tree, var. chia, has the true qualities that are desirable. It is true to its terroir and this variety grows well only in the specific area that has this perfect terroir, the southeast corner of the island of Chios, a Greek island in the Aegean Sea.

Endangered or Not: A tree called Mastic (species unknown) is considered critically endangered on the Cayman Islands. The Pistacia lentiscus is considered threatened and endangered.

General description of Plant habitat and growth: The Mastic tree, Pistacia lentiscus, is a flowering shrub with a strong smell of resin, a dioecious tree with separate male and female plants. It is an evergreen from 1 to 5 m high and grows in dry and rocky areas in Mediterranean Europe. The leaves are alternate, leathery, and compound with five or six pairs of deep-green leaflets but no terminal leaflet. It has very small flowers, the male flowers are vivid red with five stamens, the female green flowers with a 3-part style. The fruit is a drupe (a fleshy fruit with thin skin and a central stone containing the seed). It is first red and then black when ripe, about 4 mm in diameter.

The oleoresin is produced primarily in the secretory tissues of the bark of stems and branches.

“Mastic resin collecting is restricted to the southeastern corner of the island of Chios. The resin is collected by making small cuts made in the bark of the main branches and then allowing the trees to drip the sap onto the specially prepared ground below. The harvesting is done during the summer between July and October. After the Mastic is collected, it is washed manually and is set aside to dry, away from the sun, as it will start melting again.”³

Portion of the plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields: Mastic is a resin, or more correctly an oleoresin containing a little oil, obtained from an evergreen dioecious shrub, Pistacia lentiscus L. This small bushy tree occurs throughout much of the Mediterranean region and is also found in North Africa. It produces the natural oleoresin from the trunk, which is obtained by wounding the trunk and larger branches with a gouge-like instrument which makes an incision about 2 cm long and 3 mm deep. Mastic occurs in yellow or greenish-yellow rounded or pear-shaped tears about 3 mm in diameter. The tears are brittle but become plastic when chewed. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin or occasionally directly from the leaves and branches. 160-170 tonnes per annum from male plants on Chios.

[In Greece to get the Mastic from the Mastic tree, is very precise work and takes all summer. First, the ground around the tree is cleaned. After this, the tree is carved with a special needle to a depth of about 3 mm. Now the Mastic flows slowly from the tree. The first Mastic is collected after fifteen days when the Mastic has become more solid.]

The yield is 0.7-1 and occasionally up to 3% EO.

Organoleptic Characteristics of Mastic:
Color                           EO is pale yellow
Clarity                          Clear
Viscosity                      Very slightly viscous
Taste                           Bitter (We do not recommend ingestion-only chewing of the resin)
Intensity of odor         5

Intensity scale guide to gauge the Intensity of odor: On a scale of 1-10 if Usnea is a 1, Lavender a 2, and Tea Tree a 5 and Cinnamon or Massoia is 8; then Mastic is about 5-6 in intensity.

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment: The Mastic odor is green, with strong smoky, herbaceous and fruity notes and hints of spice, citrus, conifer, wood and leather. Excellent to use in a gentleman’s fragrance or for a brunette woman.

Taste: I am at a loss to describe the taste of Mastic and have been chewing the gum and tasting the sweet for weeks, even years, for a valid description. I suggest that you give it a try as it is a very special savor, most memorable. It starts out floral and slightly bitter and then smooths its way to herbal and floral. Delicious!

GENERAL PROPERTIES of MASTIC:

The essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin or occasionally directly from the leaves and branches. It is considered antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, diuretic, astringent, expectorant and stimulant. Mastic (Pistacia lentiscus) resin and EO has a plethora of qualities and uses. The resin is said to absorb cholesterol when masticated and is an antibacterial and acts as an oral antiseptic, tightens the gums, helps digestion, heals wounds and scientists recently discovered that when it is administrated in small doses it cures stomach ulcers. The EO is used to heal external skin problems.

Mastic varnish has been in use for thousands of years and primarily from the male trees and used to protect oil and watercolor paintings. The varnish is also used in lithography and cement for precious stones¹.

Properties and Uses: Gum Mastic is used in medicine, pharmaceutical products like medical creams, dental tooth paste, cures for ulcer; it is used in the paint industry, cosmetics, paint varnish, and in artist color oil. In the food industry gum Mastic is used in liqueurs, ice-cream, for pure Mastic gum, chewing gum and the most precious of all — Mastic EO. After the oil is removed a small very durable and pliable bit of chewing gum is left that lasts for a long time without disintegrating. This is the old Worlde chewing gum while Spruce and Pine gums were traditionally chewed in the USA and Canada.

It is suggested by Franchomme and Daniel Pénoël that Mastic EO can assist cardiovascular function. It also is useful as an inhalant for assisting bronchitis, coughs and colds, and application muscular aches and pains. An interesting oil.

**APPLICATION/ SKINCARE: GUM MASTIC (Pistacia lentiscus)**

Mastic is widely used in the preparation of ointments for skin afflictions like burns and eczema, frostbite, cancers, as well as other external skin afflications, including the manufacture of plasters. Mastic EO is used in products as well both for this effect and its scent.

Skin Care Recipe
A teaspoon of any unscented cleansing creams with a slight drop of Mastic EO works well in cleansing the skin. Apply and gently massage into the skin for 10 seconds, then take a warm wet washcloth to warm the skin, then gently wipe. This is great in the morning as a wakeup ritual.
This is also considered to be rejuvenative.

Other Uses: Mastic is found in varnishes.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION: Since Mastic oil is from a resinous material it can be diffused by using a FanFuser on the scent disc but not from a glass-enclosed diffuser as the resin and will clog the diffuser. The scent should be used as an accessory odor not the primary odor.

Fan Diffuser

EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USE: Aleister Crowley considered Mastic to be pale yellow energetically and clean and free from prejudice whether for or against any moral idea. It is used in a ritual blend to intensify them and quicken their rate of vibration. Mastic is used as an incense for Pisces people.

HERBAL USE OF MASTIC: The Mastic fruit (berries) can be crushed to obtain an oil which is used in a liquor or they can be used whole to flavor sausages. The leaf and stem of the plants are burned to smoke meats. Masticha is often prepared in a liquid form, mixed with honey or sugar, and spooned into cold water as the main flavor for a refreshing drink. “In Greece it is mixed with sugar and water to form a thick white cream eaten by the spoonful with dark bitter coffee.” — 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols.
Pistacia lentiscus is used occasionally as a chewing resin to improve the breath, prevent tooth decay and heal the gums.

Bathing: Francis Bacon’s prescription for a bath is as follows, “First, before bathing, rub and anoint the Body with Oyle, and Salves, that the Bath’s moistening heate and virtue may penetrate into the Body, and not the liquor’s watery part: then sit 2 houres in the Bath; after Bathing wrap the Body in a seare-cloth made of Masticke, Myrrh, Pomander and Saffron, for staying the perspiration or breathing of the pores, until the softening of the Body, having layne thus in seare-cloth 24 hours, bee growne solid and hard. Lastly, with an oynment of Oyle, Salt and Saffron, the seare-cloth being taken off, anoint the Body.” (cited by Classen, Howes & Synnott)

Culinary Use: “One typical spoon sweet is from the island of Chios called the ‘ipovrichio’ or submarine. It can be flavored with vanilla or is made from mastic resin, for which the Aegean island is famous. This is a sugary fondant to be served on a teaspoon and dipped into a glass of ice-cold water, thus why it is referred to as a submarine. Once you get your spoon submerged, the fondant softens, and you go to work licking the spoon like a fondant lollipop of sorts. This dessert is loved by children and adults alike. During the summer you will see people at the beach or cafeterias enjoying a submarine. Although as mentioned the typical flavors are vanilla and mastic, if you opt to make the sweet dessert at home, you can also add fresh berry juices to flavor and experience a glimpse of summertime traditions in Greece.”

Mastic – Tomato Tales

Mastic is a translucent sticky substance similar to tree sap, and when combined with sugar, lemon juice, and water is served on a spoon immersed in cold water. This is a special treat called a spoon sweet. In Greece this ‘spoon sweet’ specialty is called a Submarine. I find it delicious!

In 1993, I had a very formal 8-course meal for friends and for the 7^th course was a cheese course of Roquefort with Aromatherapy sweetmeats of Bergamot candied peels, Bitter Orange candied peels and Mastic sweet on Lavender Honey Thins with a delicious wine of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. It was a very successful meal.

AROMATHERAPY SALONS

Years ago, I would have meetings in my home with women that I called “Aromatherapy Salons”. We would discuss various aromatic subjects, aromatherapy, essential oils and drink fragrant tea, have tea cookies and sweetmeats. (A sweetmeat is a delicacy, prepared with sugar, honey, or the like, as preserves, candy, or, formerly, cakes or pastry. Usually, they are any sweet delicacy of the confectionery or candy kind, as candied fruit, sugar-covered nuts, sugarplums, bonbons, or balls or sticks of candy) One of my favorites sweetmeats was to use the Mastic from Greece that came as a smooth sweet white cream; a small spoonful on a cookie with tea was delicious but it was especially tasty with bitter coffee.

•Chewing Mastic. In 2018 at a Resin Distillation Conference in Spokane, WA., I asked several well-known gum-chewers [thankyou Monica and Kendall] if they wanted to try Mastic. “Yes, of course” they said, but in fact they were unable to learn to chew it or even try past 30 minutes. This is great gum and can be chewed for 4 hours without losing its eponymous taste and it is good for the teeth.

And the occasional chewing of a Mastic ball will ease the pain of a tooth carie or cavity, act as a mouth antibacterial and has in the past been used as a temporary tooth filling. Remember this when you travel out of country to carry some Mastic resin with you; both to burn as a magical fragrant incense but also as a first aid remedy.

Really, we are forgetting some our simplest first-aid skills!

Chewing Mastic: Mastic is tasteless in a tasty way and a small tear (piece) can be chewed for hours without seeming to melt away. Since it does not have a strong taste, it doesn’t get tiring to chew like American chewing gum. I put a small tear in my mouth when writing this part of the article, slowly let it soften in my mouth and then chewed it a bit and still had it in my mouth three hours later. It was pleasant to chew. I also love Chicle but think I like Mastic more.

The taste is floral with a bitter edge. As you hold it in your mouth, saliva begins to flow which softens the Mastic, chewing becomes easier and the floral taste softens and becomes quite pleasant.

Key Use: Resin is a masticatory and also used to burn to cleanse spaces and EO in skin care.

Use the essential oils in moderation. Use the herb tea or resin when it is more appropriate.

Chemical Components: The main components were α-pinene (58.86–77.10%), camphene (0.75–1.04%), β-pinene (1.26–2.46%), myrcene (0.23–12.27%), linalool (0.45–3.71%), and β-caryophyllene (0.70–1.47%). These six components total more than 90% of the oil. Another source found (E)-methyl isoeugenol as well.

Physiochemical Properties from Guenther:
Specific Gravity at 15° is 0.857 to 0.903
Optical Rotation is +22°0’ to +35°0’
Refractive Index at 20° is 1.468 to 1.476
Solubility only sparingly soluble in 4-10 vol. of 90% alcohol. Up to 5 vol. are required for solution, which is not clear, turning opalescent to turbid on more addition of alcohol.

Blends Best with: Citrus scents, Lavender-fern combos as a top note and in floral odors. In perfume use the tincture as a fixative. I enjoy using Mastic in massage blends.

Jeanne Rose Formulas and Recipes for Mastic EO & Herb resin

I like to use Mastic EO & Herb resin in my Natural Perfumery class as a tincture and used as a fixative where it lends a subtle smoky note.

HYDROSOL: I do not as yet know a source for the hydrosol or its use. However, I postulate that the hydrosol would make a good antibacterial mouthwash.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

HISTORICAL USES: The Mastic resin has been used for chewing since the time of Theophrastus, in relieving halitosis and as a filler for caries, and is also used in varnishes for oil pictures. It is also an ingredient in Ouzo. Ouzo is a high-proof drink whose production begins with distillation in copper stills of 96% alcohol by volume and herbs. Anise is added, sometimes with other flavorings such as Cardamom, Cinnamon, Cloves, Coriander, Fennel, Mastic, and Star Anise.

“In January 1992, National Geographic mentioned that Columbus, sent by Genoese traders to cash in on the money-making crop of Mastic, visited Chios at least once”. — The Aromatherapy Book.
The tear-shaped drops of Mastic gum are associated with Saint Isadoros, whose martyred body was dragged under a Mastic tree where it wept the resinous tears called Mastic. Church use for Mastic includes ritual burning as a resinous incense, not unlike Frankincense, and as an ingredient of chrism, a holy oil used for anointing by the various Orthodox Churches. Some sources identify this as resin with the Sun, but it is more like Mercury in that it is “-clarifying, quickening, brightening, and good for concentration. Smoldered 2-1 with rosemary, it is considered an aid to study, and is a good base for various types of incense for ceremonial magick.” —Alchemy-works.com.

Ancient Egyptians employed Mastic during their embalming procedures, while Biblical scholars believe that bakha—derived from the Hebrew term for weeping (and, thus, the tear-shaped pieces of Mastic gum)—was none other than the Mastic tree.

Medicine – People in the Mediterranean region have used Mastic as a medicine for gastrointestinal ailments for several thousand years. The first-century Greek physician and botanist, Dioscorides, wrote about the medicinal properties of Mastic in his classic treatise De Materia Medica Substances,”. In my personal volume, he says “the resin when drunk is good for old cough, for the stomach, and for ointments for the face. Being chewed it causes a sweet breath and strengthens the gums. The best, & most choice is that which is clear and white, dry and sweet-smelling.”

Interesting Information: It is believed that the Sardinian warbler [a bird] is only found near fruiting shrubs of this species [Mastic].².

MASTIC EXPERIENCE – JEANNE ROSE’S TOMATO TALES

AROMATHERAPY SALONS

Mastic resin pieces are also delicious when chewed like American chewing gum. It has a mild taste that is not lost after hours of chewing and it can be chewed for hours. The problem is that Mastic takes a few times to learn how to chew it as a small ball of resin needs to be soaked in the mouth first to get to perfect mastication texture. Then you need to roll it around in the mouth once in while so that it doesn’t stick to your fillings. In 2018 at a Resin Distillation Conference in Spokane, WA., I asked several well-known gum-chewers [thankyou Monica and Kendall] if they wanted to try Mastic. “Yes, of course” they said, but in fact they were unable to learn to chew it or even try past 30 minutes. This is great gum and can be chewed for 4 hours without losing its eponymous taste and it is good for the teeth.

Abstract/Scientific Data About the Gum Resin Mastic:

Researchers at Nottingham University hospital and Barnet General Hospital have found that Chios Mastic is an effective treatment for ulcers. The findings showed that even in small doses of one gram a day for two weeks, Mastic gum could cure peptic ulcers.

Regular consumption of Mastic resin has been proven to absorb cholesterol, thus easing high blood pressure and reducing the risk of heart attacks. It is also used in the manufacture of plasters. Mastic oil also has antibacterial and antifungal properties, and as such is widely used in the preparation of ointments for skin disorders and afflictions.

In recent years, university researchers have provided the scientific evidence for the medicinal properties of Mastic resin. A 1985 study by the University of Thessaloniki and by the Meikai University discovered that Mastic can reduce bacterial plaque in the mouth by 41.5%. A 1998 study by the University of Athens found that Mastic oil has antibacterial and antifungal properties. A recent and extensive study showed that Mastic gum reduced H. pylori populations after an insoluble and sticky polymer (poly-β-myrcene) constituent of Mastic gum was removed and taken for a longer period of time. Further analysis showed the acid fraction was the most active antibacterial extract, and the most active pure compound was isomasticadienolic acid.

A balm was created from the Mastic tree resin for use by physicians in Biblical times.” — Wikipedia

Contraindications: Side effects of taking Mastic gum may include nausea, diarrhea, and constipation.

References:
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Arctander. 1960
Aromatherapy Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose, San Francisco, California, 1992
Dioscorides. The Greek Herbal of Dioscorides. Translated in 1655 by Goodyer and printed in 1933.
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing. Florida. 1976
¹Langenheim, Jean H. Plant Resins • Chemistry, Evolution, Ecology, Ethnobotany. Timber Press. 2003
²Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California:
³Wikipedia – Mastic
Other References are included within the body of the work.

The Jeanne Rose Aromatherapy Studies Course these blog posts as well as much more information on the many aspects of essential oils, hydrosols, absolutes and aromatic ingredients for health and skin care.

~JR~

Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

My only analyses of Mastic using the Advanced Vocabulary of Odor

**See Natural Perfumery Workbook to use. 2016.**

BENZOIN/STYRAX/STORAX

Sep25

BENZOIN/STYRAX/STORAX RESIN EO Profile
By Jeanne Rose ~ Sept. 2018

Synopsis ~ The balsamic gum-resins contains both resin and a water-soluble gum. The ‘tear’ has no scent and can be handled like a rock. The confusing names have to do with historical references but are clarified in the article by Jeanne Rose that gives botany, yields, history and more. Read on for differences in the two. Benzoin/Styrax/Storax

Styrax and Benzoin from 1972-2018 – photo by Jeanne Rose

Common Name/Latin Binomial: BENZOIN & STYRAX ~

Benzoin. (See also Styrax) BENZOIN is an Asian gum resin, Styrax benzoin. In its natural state, it is a ‘tear’ that is solid, has no scent, can be handled and rubbed and fondled like a small irregular rock. It is a called a resin and is extruded naturally from The Styrax Benzoin tree, Styrax tonkinensis, and other species of Styrax. In its raw state, it consists of both a gum and a resin, sometimes with a small amount of EO. It is not water-soluble, as you would think a gum is. It can be burned on smoke like any incense. It is a preservative in skin care products or an addition to essential oil blends. It can be diluted with essential oil blends or alcohol for perfumery purposes. The scent is sweet, balsamic, woody, fruity and floral – it acts as either a base note or a fixative in perfumery. Benzoin resin from Styrax is also called gum Benjamin or simply gum Benzoin and the most common Asian species is Benzoin styrax.

Tincture of benzoin is a strong and pungent solution of Benzoin resin in ethanol. “A similar preparation called Friar’s Balsam or Compound Benzoin Tincture contains, in addition, Cape aloes or Barbados aloes and Storax resin. Friar’s balsam was invented by Joshua Ward around 1760”. Friars Balsam cannot be substituted for Balsam of Peru/Tolu to my knowledge. See the comparison of chemicals later on in the paper.

This is the very confusing world of words as the words Benzoin, Storax, Styrax are used interchangeably but are actually two different resins from several different trees named Styrax and Liquidamber. This is where thousands of years of using common names will totally confuse the novice resin user and make you want to tear your hair out by the roots.

Storax is a sweet-smelling exudate (from a tree) and in fact that is what the root word from the Arabic means. The word ‘Storax’ often refers to the solid resin only while Styrax is the scent in liquid form. But Storax comes from several species of Liquidambar spp.; Turkish Storax is Liquidamber orientalis while American Storax is Liquidambar styraciflua is from the southeastern USA, Mexico and Guatemala, and is similar to L. orientalis. (See also Styrax)

Styrax (STYRAX & STORAX) ~ (See also Benzoin) Storax is the word usually used for Liquidambar orientalis from Asia & Styrax for Liquidambar styraciflua from Central America while Benzoin is a balsamic resin from Styrax tonkinensis from Siam and Sumatra. [yes, I know this is totally confusing]

>This is an example of 3 ancient trees producing a resin but from different terroir and having similar genus names but specific species names. The name’s the same but the plants are not. Always know your plants by their correct Latin binomial and even terroir<.>

Benzoin/Styrax/Storax Naming ~ Years ago, I wrote to Will Lapaz, the original owner of Eden Botanicals, in regards to the different looking Styrax/Benzoin that he had and I had and he responded as follows, “Styrax – which I prefer to call Liquidambar to keep it from being confused with Benzoin (even though it is still mostly known as Styrax in the industry) – is not very common and actually hard to find. Styrax we have is from L. styraciflua from Honduras and not the Levant Styrax (L. orientalis). This is one possible difference, it is worth noting that the two species do have significantly different chemical compositions. … It is a very viscous gum resin with an aroma that nearly matches airplane glue.” —Will Lapaz. Will goes on to say “I wanted to also mention (similar to Barbara’s note to you), that Herbs and Things was the very first herb book I ever bought and read back in the 70s. So, I guess that in some ways that book (and you by extension) helped to start me on a long study of medicinal plants, herbs and the quest for the perfect essence.”

Some of Jeanne Rose personal 50-year collection of Storax/Styrax

*More Common Name Information
This is an example of 3 ancient trees producing a resin but from different terroir and having similar genus names but specific species names. Always know your plants by their correct Latin binomial. Common names are common and similar to calling all brown-haired persons by the misnomer ‘Hey”.

Benzoin is also called Storax, not to be confused with the balsam of the same name obtained from another family. Although I have to admit it is most confusing and this is why you need to KNOW the Latin name and not just the common name.

Family name of the two main genus called

Benzoin/Styrax/Storax

Family Hamamelidaceae include Liquidamber species of Turkish or American Storax and sometimes it is called Styrax

Family Styracaceae include Styrax species of Benzoin and Tonkin ‘Styrax’ resin

red Siam gum benzoin

COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN

Family Styracaceae – many names to confuse you.
Benzoin – Styrax benzoin or the Asian gum resin, the most common Asian species and commonly from Sumatra. Styrax benzoin is also from more humid Asian species, reported from India, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam, Java, Sumatra, and Malaysia

Styrax Benzoin tree – Styrax tonkinensis – gum resin from Thailand (Siam) and Sumatra.

Benzoin is also called ‘Storax’ and not to be confused with the balsam of the Storax obtained from the Liquidamber trees of the Hamamelidaceae family. Please refer to the paragraph above called *More Common Name Information.

Family Hamamelidaceae

Storax – Liquidamber spp). is a common name that often refers to the powder or resin used in potpourri.
Storax, Turkish – Liquidamber orientalis from Asia Minor, is called Levant Styrax or Turkish sweetgum.
Storax, American – Liquidamber styraciflua from Central America is also called Styrax.

Eden Botanicals Harvest Location ~ Benzoin (Styrax benzoin) originates in Sumatra and is an alcohol extracted dilution of 70% resin and 30% ethanol.

Styrax (Liquidamber styraciflua) is solvent-extracted using ethanol and originates in Honduras.

Endangered or Not ~ “worries that the Liquidambar orientalis forest in the Eastern Mediterranean (i.e. the private & State-owned forest centered in S.E. Anatolia in Turkey) is now greatly reduced through wood-felling and resin extraction, to the extent that Topal et al. 2008 say the species is facing extinction). Cropwatch can therefore no longer support the use of commodities from Liquidamber orientalis in perfumery.” —Cropwatch
Liquidamber (Storax) is facing extinction.
Benzoin is considered critically endangered by FloraFaunaWeb^4.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH, EXTRACTION ~

PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELD ~
Liquidamber of the Hamamelidaceae family is a monoecious deciduous tree; and a cultivated ornamental with spectacular autumnal color. The oriental sweet gum L. orientalis is native to Asia Minor and forms large forests. The tree grows to a height of 20-40 feet, and some cases higher. The leaves are shiny bright green above and pale below. Styrax also called Storax, Liquidamber orientalis, the Levant Styrax is a natural balsam formed in the sapwood and bark tissue. The tree grows wild, the bark removed, and the sapwood is injured at intervals of several days, particularly in August and September but not in the rainy season.³ “The Styrax forms and is collected in cans below the wound and additionally the bark can be boiled to yield more of the precious substance. Water will collect at the bottom of the cans and needs to be removed.”¹

The American Styrax tree, Liquidamber styraciflua has two varieties with either 3-lobed leaves or 5-7-lobed leaves. The tree grows to 100 feet and the wood is hard, close-grained and reddish brown in color. “The balsam has been long used by (native Americans); after the conquest by Cortes, it was exported to Spain in large quantities for use both as perfume and as a vulnerary.”³(A vulnerary prevents tissue degeneration and arrests bleeding in wounds.) Mexico, Honduras, and Guatemala produce the American Storax from L. styraciflua. “Here the balsam is a pathological product which exudes from the tree and accumulates in ‘pockets’ in older trees. Thus, incisions in the bark is not necessary.” — Steffen Arctander¹

Liquidamber yield: Very dependent on the source, process, and certainly quantity of water in the original product.
American Styrax, L. styraciflua, will yield from 15-20% from steam distillation of the resin.

***Liquidamber styraciflua –*USA**

“Benzoin trees are large and irregularly shaped. In addition, they are perennial, living in mixed or disturbed forests, flowers are insect-pollinated, it is propagated by seed, the foliage is spirally arranged with stalked leaves. Styrax benzoin trees, that have been cultivated and left to mature for at least six years are harvested for this resin. First, triangular cuts are made into the bark and this causes the resin flowing within to pool out of these incisions and harden very quickly upon coming into contact with the air. The quick drying factor, combined with the gravitational force of flow, often results in a teardrop-shaped knob of hard resin left dangling from the tree. Depending on the species of tree, the resin collected ranges in color from pale yellow to dark amber. Once tapped, most trees will continue to yield a flow of resin for another three years.” — I wish I could find the original source of this paragraph. The latest place I saw it is at https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-benzoin.htm

Benzoin yield: Very dependent on the source and process by which obtained. And the product is often only the alcohol-soluble resin.

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment ~
Benzoin is considered an irritant. The scent is sweet, balsamic, woody, fruity and floral.
Styrax is an intense odor of pungent herb, hot tropical fruity subsidiary note with a back note that is animalistic and slightly civet-like. The scent is described by Guenther as a peculiar characteristic odor and a sharp, spicy taste. The eponymous scent is also resultant of the quantity of styrene which may boil off or change due to the age of the product.

“Des Esseintes proceeded to turn about and warm between his hands a ball of Styrax, and a very curious odour filled the room, a smell at once repugnant and exquisite, blending the delicious scent of the jonquil with the filthy stench of gutta-percha and coal-tar. …” Against the Grain by J. K. Huysmans

Benzoin and Styrax, Fortunately, I have enough supply of these odors from original sources to always be able to supply my perfumery with these powerful pure scents that were once easily available and are no longer.

Benzoin resin from Sumatra, alcohol extract courtesy of Eden Botanicals

The right nostril processes navigational related odors. And people favor the right nostril when detecting and evaluating the intensity of odors, hinting at a broader olfactory asymmetry. So, if you are lost and wish to get home or wish to know the intensity of a scent, sniff the air with the right side. Left nostril smells the scent and right-side nostril smells the intensity.

Smell left for scent, smell right for intensity and then waft to get the entire scent experience.

Key Use of Benzoin/Styrax/Storax ~ Perfumery. Styrax tonkinensis and Styrax benzoin from Thailand and Sumatra produces Benzoin for perfumery. Liquidamber spp. best use is as an odor fixative in perfumery.

Safety Precautions about Benzoin ~ The cruder the Benzoin the more potential to cause sensitization. “For those that do not know, sensitization is not just an irritation of the skin. It is an immune system response and can be temporary but can be with you for Life. Those that become cosmetic ingredient sensitized can have the most appallingly disfiguring skin conditions.” — Martin Watt

Safety Precautions about Storax (Liquidamber)~ Styrax also is apparently to be potentially abandoned by IFRA (International Fragrance Association) and is another aroma ingredient with an important place in the art of perfumery, being derived from a number of Liquidambar spp. including Liquidambar styraciflua L.; L. orientalis var. orientalis; L. orientalis var. integriloba & L. formosana.

GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties and Uses ~ The properties are antiseptic and antibacterial. They are used for medicinal conditions and purposes. A tincture of Benzoin can be made from steeping the resin in an alcohol base and when administered as an inhalant, the tincture is said to be an effective natural cold remedy, as well as a treatment for bronchitis and other respiratory disorders.

In Mabberley’s Plant Book Benzoin is called styrax and properties are listed as above as well as for flavoring cigarettes and in ceremony. Some are cultivated ornamentals, S. officinalis a distinct variety in California has seeds used in beads. (this is interesting to me as I have one of these trees in my yard and have never seen it produce seeds).

“Liquidamber, is a valuable timber and aromatic balsam tree used in medicine and scent. L. orientalis is the source of the Levant Storax, and probably the balm (of Gilead) of the Bible”.²

Storax or Liquidamber spp. Is used as flavors, fragrances, and in pharmaceuticals called Friars Balsam as it has many uses. [Friars Balsam is a combination of Benzoin, Storax and Aloes]
American Storax resin (Liquidambar styraciflua) has also been chewed like gum to freshen breath and clean teeth.

**Symbols from The Aromatherapy Book showing that Benzoin/Styrax
can be a skin irritant and to dilute before use.**

Applications/ Skincare ~ When applied topically, the tincture of Benzoin is considered an excellent home remedy for a variety of skin disorders, including acne, psoriasis, eczema, and rashes. It was also used as an antiseptic to treat cuts, wounds, blisters, and even cold sores and ulcerations of the mouth and gums. In tropical America, Styrax tessmamanii crushed leaves are used against fungal infections of the feet. I have also read that application of tincture of Benzoin is used by the military in blister care — to drain a blister and attach the skin back to the body part and that it is called a ‘hot shot’ as it burns when applied.

Diffuse/Diffusion ~ Because the oils of Benzoin and Styrax are resinous they are not suitable for diffusion.

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN) ~ Jeanne Rose favorite use for Storax EO is simply by inhalation. This rich, resinous, sharp sweet scent is a reminder of my days in the laboratory at San Jose State University — my happy days there. For some it smells unpleasant with first smell but once it sits in your nose for a bit, the scent loses some of its sharpness and becomes rich and full.

In North Africa women burn Benzoin and Storax in broken pottery to access the divinity and for mystical purposes.

Benzoin AE & Styrax SE courtesy Eden Botanicals

Herbalism ~ In herbalism the compound tincture of Benzoin is already available in stores as it is difficult for a regular person to make it from the tears. Or, for perfumery the solvent-extracted absolute can be used diluted with alcohol. I use a 50•50 mix for perfumery. That means that I dilute the absolute with an equal amount of 95% neutral grape spirits. One can of course dilute it further for a less syrupy, less-viscous material that can be used in lotions or to preserve products (see Contraindications). A dilution of 30% absolute + 70% of the 95% alcohol will prolong a product and if this is about 10% of the total product then it acts as a preservative.

[I have mentioned Benzoin in various aspects in all of my books and assume that you know that it is a substance that leaks from a tree, solidifies and is sold as resin, is then treated and used in various ways. Benzoin also has been discussed many times — look at my books].

Burning Benzoin or Styrax Resin

Blends Best with ~ These two oils, Benzoin and Styrax blend with anything in the right proportion, especially spices like pepper, Clove and Nutmeg and Coriander and conifers like Cypress, Fir and especially with the citrus scents like Grapefruit and Litsea, herbal and woody odors like Atlas cedar and Tobacco and almost any rich floral odor such as Neroli, Osmanthus, Rose, Tuberose and Ylang-Ylang. Styrax is especially useful as a powerful bridge note in any Chypre formula (Labdanum and Oakmoss base) but the perfume needs to be aged before you decide whether you like the odor or not.

BLENDING with formula ~ I take my resin, either Benzoin or Liquidamber and dissolve it in neutral grape spirits before I use it in perfumery. Both are powerful fixative odor when used in perfumery, but I prefer Liquidamber as a fixative and Benzoin in Meditation blends.

A FLORAL CHYPRE PERFUME
Perfume with Styrax

Styrax can be hard to blend in a perfume because it takes TIME to integrate, sometimes as long as three months. So, if you make this perfume, make each note separately, then age for 2 weeks, then mix together as you wish, age again for 2 weeks, and lastly add the Styrax as a Bridge note. See the blog post for more information. https://jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-perfumery/

Styrax resin diluted 50•50 … Styrax (Liquidamber styraciflua or orientalis) is an aromatic balsam formed and exuded by the Storax tree when the sapwood is injured. The American Storax is preferred over the Asian or Levant type. See p. 108 of Herbs & Things. Take a small quantity of Styrax and dilute equally with neutral grape spirits. It will now be more fluid and easier to work with.

Benzoin/Labdanum Base Scent or Accord

Dilute each of your Benzoin and Labdanum 50•50 with neutral grape spirits.
Let the above age and meld for a week.
Take 12 drops of Benzoin (50•50) and 3-4 drops of (50•50) Labdanum and mix together. Age it for 1-week.

After it ages, you can add equal amount of grape spirits to make a 25% pure scent base to be used as a fixative or part of the base note.

HYDROSOL ~ I have not as yet seen or used any product that was called Benzoin/Storax or styrax hydrosol.
PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

STYRAX for Mounting Laboratory Slides.

Styrax was introduced as a mounting medium in 1883. Originally Styrax was used in the laboratory to mount microscopic animals on slides. They were fixed with alcohol or acetic acid and mounted in Styrax. Styrax has been used to mount all microscopic creatures onto glass slides and fix them so that they do not deteriorate. “Mount in Styrax. Unlike Euparal, this has a refractive index which is markedly different from that of siliceous diatom frustules and makes them stand out very clearly. At stage (4) single specimens can be selected and mounted individually if required.” — Techniques for the rapid preparation of permanent slides of microscopic algae by P.E. Brandham

Liquidamber Styrax ~ courtesy of Eden Botanicals

STYRAX ~ A TOMATO TALE

In the late ‘50s when I was at University as a Zoology major, I was keeper of the animal room (a euphemism I will explain at some later time) and I also used to collect my own invertebrate specimens from the sea near Santa Cruz, come home and then mount them onto slides. The best place to do this was in the basement of the University. There was a hot furnace for the glass-blowing studio and a very large cage of cockroaches across the room so that the bugs could enjoy the warmth. The furnace was very hot and warmed the entire basement, and the cockroaches were both amazingly smelly as well as noisy as they hissed constantly. I would first blow my own glass collecting tubes that would fit the tiny invertebrate creatures I had collected and then remove the cellular water by certain preservation techniques and then mount them onto glass slides – it was a Special Project. These small bits of animalia were placed on the slide and then fixed with Styrax and a cover slip placed atop. This scent will always remind me of my days in a science lab.

“The small creatures are fixed in 1:3 acetic alcohol, the coverslip immersed rapidly. Care should be taken not to overcrowd the cells and then they are mounted in Styrax. Owing to its content of high boiling constituents, Styrax acts as a most efficient odor fixative.” The oil is still used to fix slides and also used in all kinds of perfume compounds, particularly those of oriental character.

This is one of my most favorite evocative odors, when I smell the strong spicy, herbaceous and oily, aldehydic odor I am wafted directly back to the science lab at San Jose State University in 1957. For me, it is a relaxing luscious scent when used in modest amounts in a perfume, especially those of the Chypre sort. Here is one of my favorite early potpourri scents and bases since 1969.

Use this potpourri in closets or drawers to scent your belongings.

“Chypre: An important perfume in Roman times manufactured in Cyprus and made of Storax, Labdanum and Calamus, giving it a heady, oriental aroma. The style of perfume continued to be manufactured in Italy into the Middle Ages under a variety of formulas, retaining the name ‘Chypre’, and was also produced in France under the name of ‘Cyprus Powder’ with Oakmoss as a base. In 17th and 18th century-France there was a fashion for small models of birds, known as ‘Oiselets de Chypre’, molded out of Chypre perfume paste (one recipe required Benzoin (Benjamin), cloves, cinnamon, calamus and gum Tragacanth as ingredients) and contained in ornate hanging cages. —”The Perfume Handbook” by Nigel Groom:

BENZOIN Limerick
Benzoin is not very pretty
But it is a good smell for those in the city
It is brown
You put it down.
And it smells like vanilla, that’s the pity. —jeannerose2018

Benzoin ~ A Tomato Tale

From 1961 to 1969 I had this great Dane dog named George. He was a blue Dane and came from Kalmar Kennel in Georgia. He was kind, faithful and traveled with me everywhere. In those days, I had a 1956 white Thunderbird convertible. He was quite a sight in that car riding in the front seat. He was my first aromatherapy dog. George like all Great Danes lie about on their doggy elbows a lot and these elbows get all calloused and wrinkled, the hairs can get ingrown and the flesh sometimes really sore and irritated and sometime soft and mushy. If the callus breaks open, the dog’s skin is compromised and might get infected. For this dog, I obtained tincture of Benzoin (gum Benzoin liquified with alcohol) and would apply it to his elbows. This toughens the skin. The Benzoin would be applied in tincture form and when the alcohol vaporized, the Benzoin which is a resin would form a solid film over the callus and protect the skin. This would act both as a protectant as well as an antibacterial. This worked really well for him and I continued to use Tincture of Benzoin for this purpose when I moved back to San Francisco and Big Sur in 1963 and until he was gone.

A recipe for Dog Elbow Cream by Jeanne Rose

Big dogs lie on their elbows and these can develop blisters and sores. To soothe this, you can make a soothing cream for the elbow. Make an application with 90% Olive Oil, 9% Calophyllum and 1% tincture of Benzoin.

To enhance the healing effects, take Olive oil and infuse or macerate for three days with the three important “C” herbs of herbalism (Chamomile flowers, Calendula flowers, Comfrey root or leaf), press out the oil and remove the herbs to your compost. To the infused oil add 9% Calophyllum oil and 1% of tincture of Benzoin and then solidify with Beeswax. [salves are easy to make, and you will find exact recipes in my books and Herbal Studies Course). This will soothe your dog’s elbow skin, moisturize and condition it.

Historical Uses ~ Storax has been mentioned in ancient writings by many authors including Theophrastus, Aristotle and Herodotus. They were some of the first ones to mention the Storax tree and its balsam. In Greek, Styraciflua refers to “styrax or styrakos” which was the ancient name for a tree that produced a fragrant fumy resin that was called Storax by both Pliny and Vergilius. It means a point, spike, or maybe the spike at the lower end of the shaft of a spear.

My copy of Plinie’s Natural History – 1601

Pliny in his Natural History (Chapter XVIII. Paragraph C, page 371) notes the use of Storax as a perfume, saying, “Out of Syria they bring backe Storax, with the acrimonie & hot smell whereof, being burnt upon their herths, they put by and drive away the loathfomneffe of their owne odors, wherewith they are cloyed: for the Arabians ufe no other fuell at all for their fires, but fweetwood”…Ciris mentions Storax as a fragrant hair dye. Dioscorides (De Materia Medica) reports its use as incense, similar to frankincense, having expectorant and soothing properties.

Interesting Information ~ The Storax of the ancients was probably extracted from a different tree, seemingly from the Liquidambar orientalis which grows wild in northern Syria and may even have been grown in Israel; from it is extracted an aromatic sap with healing qualities called Storax liquidis. This may possibly be the biblical balm, though other sources conclude that the biblical balm is Opobalsamum.

Chemical Components ~ Purified Storax contains circa 33 to 50% storesin, an alcoholic resin, both free and as cinnamic esters. Contains 5 to 15% cinnamic acid, 5 to 15% cinnamyl cinnamate, circa 10% phenylpropyl cinnamate; small amounts of ethyl cinnamate, benzyl cinnamate, and styrene, some may contain traces of vanillin. Some sources report a resin containing triterpenic acids (oleanolic and 3-epioleanolic acids). —Wikipedia

Styrax has free cinnamic acid and thus IFRA requirements to produce a skin-neutral product devoid of free cinnamic acid, have resulted in main ingredients being chemically treated that are not as pleasant in scent as they once were. In my opinion, if the distinctive scent is gone then it is not Storax and it need not be used in the perfumery.

Physicochemical Properties: Oil of Styrax, Liquidamber, of family Hamamelidaceae has a lovely peculiar odor. The properties vary with the method of distillation used.

Solubility – soluble in ½ vol. of 80% alcohol, opalescent in 10 vol. of 80% alcohol. Some oils with a high percentage of esters is less soluble.

Specific Gravity – 0.89 to 1.06

THIS IS A VERY ROUGH CHART OF THE CHEMICALS IN THESE COMPOUNDS
If you can improve on it, please let me know.

Abstract/Scientific Data: this is an interesting collection of notes regarding Benzoin.
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/benzoin#section=Top

Contraindications: Storax resin is “generally regarded as safe” (GRAS), but at low levels, for example, circa 15 ppm in candy and 25 ppm in baked goods.

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Safety Precautions in General ~ Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most oils are not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapist suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

> USE THESE RESINS/OILS FOR YOUR HEALTH AND WELLBEING.

Use them for physical health ~
Use them moderately and occasionally to balance and heal emotional trauma ~
Use them less frequently to ground yourself and to find awareness of your spiritual center ~
Use the whole plant resin first as an incense ~
and the essential oil/resinoid as a second choice ~
~ be a Conscious consumer, ecologically thoughtful ~

Alchemical symbol for healing

Sustainability: These items may not be sustainable in the amounts that are being used. My suggestion is to use only the actual resin as it was once meant to be, as incense, in small moderate amounts as needed and not use the essential oil at all.

References:
¹Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. 1960.
²Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
³Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. 1952
⁴https://florafaunaweb.nparks.gov.sg/Special-Pages/plant-detail.aspx?id=4752
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose. 2017 edition. San Francisco, California
https://www.edenbotanicals.com/liquidambar-styrax.html
Jaeger, Edmund C. A Source-book of Biological Names and Terms. 1955.
Plinie’s. Natural History. My translation and book dated 1601.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. North Atlantic Books. 2000:

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Please leave your comments and questions here at the blog and not at Jeanne Rose FB page or website. /courses.html

Balsam of Peru/Tolu

Aug31

BALSAM OF TOLU & BALSAM OF PERU

Essential Oil, HERB, Hydrosol Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ /courses.html

Synopsis ~ Balsam of Tolu/Peru is a balsamic oleoresin contains both resin and essential oil and is now an invasive tree in new areas. The resin has a warm, woody, vanilla-type odor and has many therapeutic uses for skin care as well as a wonderful addition as a fixative in perfumery. Read on for the differences in the two.

Essential Oil & Absolute Courtesy of EdenBotanicals

Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Balsam of Peru/Tolu are derived from a single species that have two different physiologic forms or formae. “The generic name Myroxylon derives from the Greek myron meaning sweet oil or perfume and xylon meaning wood, alluding to the natural, sweet-smelling, viscous resin that is obtained from the trunk of the tree and known commonly as balsam.”⁵This is a ‘form’ difference in the two not a chemotype difference.

Family Name ~ Fabaceae (Leguminosae) family of flowering plants.

Balsam Peru is Myroxylon balsamum for. pereirae (syn. Is M. pereirae) comes mainly from the Pacific side of southern Mexico but also through Central America.

Balsam Tolu is Myroxylon balsamum for. balsamum (syn. Is M. toluifera) comes from Columbia and the old varietal name is named after small town.

Note: In botanical nomenclature, a form (forma, plural formae) is one of the “secondary” taxonomic ranks, below that of variety, and describes the physiologic look of a species that is different from the same species elsewhere. Some plants, although identical taxonomically may have slightly different forms or ‘looks’. If nature is responsible for the different look it is ‘forma’, if man breeds the difference or for that look it is a ‘cv or variety’. These also may have different chemistry as is the case with these two balsams or the two forms of Frankincense called Boswellia sacra/carterii.

Other Common Name/Naming Information and Countries of Origins ~

What are Balsams? Balsam is from Latin balsamum meaning “gum of the balsam tree.” They are called balsams, but that name also includes other types of resins and that can lead to confusion.

Balsam is an aromatic resinous substance, such as balm, exuded by various trees and shrubs and used as a base for certain fragrances and medical and cosmetic preparations. Balsams are less fluid than oleoresins, they are “relatively soft and initially malleable resin, generally fragrant; sometimes restricted to phenolic resins of this kind.¹” This resinous sap forms on certain trees. Balsams in some definitions also have to include benzoic acid or cinnamic acid.

Balsam of Peru/Tolu

Balsam Peru ~ EO Myroxylon balsamum or M. balsamum var. pereirae is the same as Balsam of Tolu but a different physiological forma (and from a different area). It is native to Central (El Salvador) and South America. See the Botany section from your textbook, 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols. This is a balsamic oleoresin, containing both resin and essential oil that literally has to be beaten out of the bark and collected. It has a warm, woody, vanilla-type odor and has many therapeutic uses for skin care as well as a wonderful addition as a fixative in perfumery.

Balsam of Peru Limerick

I love my Balsam of Peru
It goes well in scrub with bamboo
It is sticky and sweet
And can’t be used neat
But with heat it is no longer like glue—jeannerose2012

Balsam Tolu EO – EO Myroxylon balsamum or M. balsamum var. toluiferum is the same as Balsam of Peru but different physiological forma (and from a different area). It is native to South America (Columbia) and only slightly different than Balsam of Peru in that the branches begin at 45 feet above-ground and the balsam comes naturally from the tree after an incision and is not beaten out. The scent is the same, balsamic, vanilla-type, warm, and smoky. The balsam can be steam-distilled, with a high ester count, used as anticatarrhal, expectorant, indicated for chronic respiratory conditions and used commercially as an expectorant in cough formulas or in soap. See page 110 of Herbs & Things or page 69 The Aromatherapy Book.

Eden Botanicals Harvest Location ~ Balsam of Peru is wild-grown and harvested in El Salvador.

Endangered or Invasive ~ Myroxylon balsamum is a large tree of tropical America, known internationally and introduced widely as a source of resin (Peru and Tolu balsams) for use in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It is also a valuable timber tree. However, it is reported as highly invasive in inland and montane Sri Lanka, where it forms dense stands shading out native species, which indicates a risk of it also becoming invasive in some of the many countries and islands where it has naturalized.⁵

General description of Plant habitat and growth of Balsam of Peru/Tolu ~ “M. balsamum is a large tree up to 40-45 m tall, with a round crown and dense foliage. The main trunk is up to 1 m in diameter, mostly straight, with slim, ascending branches. The outer bark is smooth, greyish brown and covered with many lenticels (one of many raised pores in the stem of a woody plant that allows gas exchange between the atmosphere and the internal tissues); the inner bark is yellowish, with a pungent, some say unpleasant smell. Leaves are alternate or irregular, petiolate.”⁵This woody tree is broadleaved, a perennial, and propagated by seed.

Balsam of Peru/Tolu …Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields ~

Balsam of Peru is sticky and sweet. These large trees can be found from Guatemala to Nicaragua, but the conditions needed for producing Peru Balsam exist only in a small region of El Salvador, in the highlands an hour’s drive west of the capital San Salvador. Peru is harvested in successive phases, January to May in the dry season and May to September in the rainy season. The bark is burned, and these specific spots are covered with pieces of cloth that absorb the exudate. The cloth is then pressed, and the balsam is purified by boiling. Impurities are removed through specific purification. The trees suffer no permanent damage from this process and can continue to yield balsam for more than 100 years. A company called Biolandes has established a secure and sustainable supply at the source, importing purified balsam to France where it is processed to produce Peru absolute. “Removing the insoluble portions by filtration and then removing the solvent yield resinoid which varies between 80-86%”⁸.

Yield ~ Peru production amounts to about 80 tons per year. The yield in commercial production ranges from 43-55% essential oil from the balsam.

Balsam of Tolu ‘resinoid’ “is obtained by extraction of the raw tolu balsam. It is a brown crystalline mass with a persistent, sweet, balsamic odor, somewhat reminiscent of Hyacinth. It is used as a fixative in perfumes.^7.” The balsam forms in the trunk tissues as a result of injuries.⁸Consistency depends upon age and temperature. It is soluble in high-proof alcohol. Collection of balsam continues year-around.

Yield ~ Steam distillation of Tolu balsam yields from 1.5-7% volatile oil.⁸

Squeezing out the Balsam of Peru

Organoleptic Characteristics:

Characteristics	*1972 Balsam of Peru*	Balsam of Peru resin	Balsam of Peru EO	Balsam of Tolu resin
Color:	Brown	brown	Yellow to golden	brown
Clarity:	opaque	opaque	clear	opaque
Viscosity:	Viscous	Very viscous	Somewhat viscous	Very viscous
Taste:	—	—	—	—
Intensity of Odor: 1-10 with 1= lowest	3	2	2	3

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment of Balsam of Peru/Tolu ~ Odors have intensity and tenacity. Intensity is how strong the odor is, and tenacity is how long it lasts in your nose or in a blend or perfume. Regarding the “Vocabulary of Odor” this is fully explained in chapter 3 of my book, 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols.

Balsam of Peru from 1972 was woody, vegetative, balsamic and floral. Balsam of Peru from 1980 was balsamic, floral and woody. Balsam of Peru essential oil balsamic, softly floral and a back note of wood.

Balsam of Tolu resin was a soft balsamic, woody, floral note that becomes more intense when it is diluted 50•50 with 95% neutral grape spirits. At this 1•1 dilution rate it will eventually separate. It stays in solution with further dilution to reduce the resin to 25% of the total.

CHEMICAL COMPONENTS

Physiochemical Properties: Peru Balsam is a viscous, dark brown, transparent liquid which does not harden on exposure to the air. It has a pleasant sweet lasting odor which is slightly reminiscent of Vanilla. It is a complex mixture of 25-30% resin and 60-65% essential oil.⁸

Solubility ~ It is soluble in 95% alcohol.

Comparison of Main Components ~ Balsam of Peru and Balsam of Tolu are very different in their chemistry.

According to Tony Burfield in 2008, Balsam of Peru contains benzyl cinnamate up to 40%, benzyl benzoate up to 30% and cinnamyl cinnamate up to 0.5%. Other constituents include vanillin up to 1%, and the floral scented sesquiterpene alcohol nerolidol up to 7%), this being formerly termed ‘peruviol’.

Balsam of Tolu contains cinnamein (benzyl cinnamate or a mixture of this ester with other esters), cinnamic acid, and resin, and can resinify more easily than Balsam of Peru. The main constituents of tolu balsam are the benzyl- and cinnamyl esters of benzoic acid and cinnamic acid. They are solid at room temperature.

•

GENERAL PROPERTIES of Balsam of Peru/Tolu

These two balsams, visually identical but differently named because of location, are antiseptic and antitussive.

Properties and Uses ~ Peru Balsam with its sweet vanilla-like scent and is used in the manufacture of perfumes and in many products. Peru balsam has uses in medicine to calm coughs, in the treatment of dry socket in dentistry, in suppositories for hemorrhoids. The plants have been reported to inhibit Mycobacterium tuberculosis as well as the common ulcer-causing bacteria. It has been used as Helicobacter pylori in test-tube studies, so it is used topically as a treatment of wounds and ulcers, as an antiseptic and used as an anal muscle relaxant. Peru Balsam can be found in diaper rash ointments, hair tonics, antidandruff preparations, and feminine hygiene sprays and as a natural fragrance in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions, and perfumes.

Application/Skincare ~ Balsam of Peru has been used as a disinfectant for eczema or pruritis; to relieve the itch of scabies and to kill the eggs; as a ringworm application and as a rub to toughen nipples prior to nursing (prior to birth, not after birth). It is used in skin cleaning soaps — medicinal soaps for chapped hands and feet. Dissolved in alcohol it is a fragrant and potent fixative in perfume and potpourri.³

Balsam of Tolu is used much the same as Balsam of Peru with a similar vanilla-scent that is also somewhat cinnamon. It is used as a fixative in perfumery and potpourris and many pharmaceutical preparations and soap making.

Diffuse/Diffusion ~ I suggest that you do not try to diffuse this product.

Emotional/Energetic Uses ~ Balsam of Peru/Tolu are used energetically and emotionally in love spells and in ceremony and in blessings.

Jeanne Rose recipe for Depression or Sadness

Emotion: Depression – Mix together in whatever quantities you choose, essential oil of Basil and Jasmine and add an equal amount of Balsam of Tolu and Fir absolute. Mix together completely and use as an inhaler whenever necessary.

Emotion: Sadness – When you think that “Life is difficult, I am not smart, nobody loves me” mix together 4 parts or 40 drops of Benzoin or Balsam of Peru or Tolu (dissolved first in alcohol 1:2), 3 parts or 30 drops of Rosewood, 2 parts or 20 drops of Spikenard and 1 part or 10 drops of Ylang -Ylang Extra. Mix these together and place in an inhaler bottle. Label the bottle and inhale as necessary.

Key Use ~ The distillate and the diluted resin balsam of either is very useful in perfumery. Perfumery Fixative and commercially in pharmaceuticals.

Blends Best with ~ Atlas Cedar, Cardamom, Cassia, Cinnamon, citrus scents, Frankincense, leather scents, Myrrh, Nutmeg, Opopanax, Patchouli, all resins, Rose, smoky odors, Tobacco, Vanilla, and Vetivert and more.

BLENDING with formula

Transcendental Sassy Pants from Perfumery – 2010
Ylang Ylang – type not listed – 10 drops
Cinnamon – type not listed – 12 drops
Balsam of Tolu – 20 drops
Sandalwood – type not listed – 10

This had a wonderful odor and a great name; however, the student did not list any of the qualifying details that would allow anyone else to be able create her particular scent. But these ingredients could be mixed together using Ylang Extra, Hawaiian Sandalwood and you would have a beautiful odor.

HYDROSOL ~ I have never seen or used anything called Peru/Tolu hydrosol.

Historical Uses and Interesting Information for Balsam of Peru/Tolu ~ The words Balsam of Peru is misnamed. During the Spanish domination of Central and parts of South America the balsam was collected in Central America and shipped to either Callao or Lima in Peru and was thus name “Balsam of Peru”. It was exported to Europe and documented early in the 17^th century. Today it is extracted under a handicraft process and is mainly exported from El Salvador. These two balsams obtained from Myroxylon trees are produced in different ways as detailed above.

Tolu Balsam is considered toponymy and not a misnomer. A toponymy is a study of place names, their origins and meanings. Tolu balsam is actually obtained from the latex of a tree and was originally described by Linnaeus from a sample from a town called Tolu, which at the time was located in the province of Cartagena.

Jeanne Rose Tomato Tales ~ Balsam of Peru

I have been interested in collecting these two balsams since I first knew them. I knew that Balsam of Peru was often considered an allergen or a problem for sensitive skin. But I never seemed to have any ill effects from its use. “It has been used as an expectorant, …. And externally on sores, scabies, and ringworm”.⁶

Back in my rock and roll days of 1965-1970, I once took a trip to Mexico with the father of my child. Our car broke down, we abandoned it and we completed our homeward journey on an ancient Mexican bus with torn upholstery and raggedy curtains. The bus was loaded with children and even pets. An ancient old lady was sitting behind us and spent that tedious bus ride smiling at and entertaining my child who was two at the time. It was a long bus trip from wherever we had started. Towards the end of the trip I began to itch, really itch and starting scratching at the webs between my fingers and the skin on the inside of my elbows. It began to be a torture. At the border, we were dropped off, walked across, were picked up by friends and made our way home to Big Sur and my cabin in Palo Colorado cabin where my big old Great Dane dog, George, was awaiting me.

The relentless itching continued, and I finally applied some Balsam of Peru that I had. This helped with the itching. I knew it was used for all sorts of skin parasites. Remember this was Big Sur 1966 and people were passing all sorts of whatever from one-person-to-another. My itching was temporarily soothed but my other two travel companions were scratching like crazy. I looked at my inner elbow with a magnifying glass and was absolutely sure I could see a microscopic spider wavng its legs about. So, we all went to the doctor, were diagnosed with scabies, bought the killer medicine, came home, showered, and treated ourselves from head-to-toe and that was the end of that. Thankfully, never to be heard of again.

[Scabies is an Infestation of tiny mites called Sarcoptes scabiei, that are passed by skin-to-skin contact or contact with an infested object such as a towel, bedding, or upholstered furniture. We got ours from the bus upholstery]

The Balsam of Peru had certainly helped me, but I was not as yet a confidant herbalist and thus did not use it on my child or the father. Balsam of Peru has a pleasant fragrant woody odor but can be sort of burning on the skin. And I cannot remember at this time if I had diluted it with anything or if it was tincture of Balsam of Peru that I had originally used.

Alchemical Symbol for Sap

Balsam of Tolu/Peru is called a resin or a balsam. Examples are Peru Balsam or Canada Balsam. Peruvian balsam (“Peru”) is an exudate of Myroxylon balsamum var. pereirae, a tree native to Central America. Peru balsam has a sweet scent like vanilla and is used in the manufacture of perfumes and in many products. Peru balsam has uses in medicine to calm coughs, in the treatment of dry socket in dentistry, in suppositories for hemorrhoids. The plants have been reported to inhibit Mycobacterium tuberculosis as well as the common ulcer-causing bacteria. It has been used as H. pylori in test-tube studies, so it is used topically as a treatment of wounds and ulcers, as an antiseptic and used as an anal muscle relaxant. Peru Balsam can be found in diaper rash ointments, hair tonics, antidandruff preparations, and feminine hygiene sprays and as a natural fragrance in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions, and perfumes.

Abstract/Scientific Data ~ The significance of fragrance mix, balsam of Peru, colophony and propolis as screening tools in the detection of fragrance allergy. Wohrl S. Hemmer W. Focke M, Gotz M, Jarish R. Br J Dermatol. 2001 Aug;145(2):268-73.
BACKGROUND: Patch testing to fragrances is an important step in the diagnosis of fragrance allergy.
OBJECTIVES: To determine the usefulness of adding propolis to the European standard series to test for fragrance allergy.
Results: The positive results to the standard series in 2660 patients were: fragrance mix 243 (9.1%), Myroxylon Pereirae [balsam of Peru] 144 (5.4%), colophony 32 (1.2%); these fragrance mixtures are used as screening substances for fragrance allergy in the European standard series. Propolis, also known as bee’s glue, was also an important allergen in this locally revised standard series. … patients suspected of fragrance allergy had positive skin tests to the special fragrance series comprising the eight constituents of the fragrance mix (most frequent: isoeugenol 5.4%, oakmoss absolute 5.0%, eugenol 2.5%) and 14 other fragrance allergens (most frequent: clove oil 1.6%, lemon grass oil 0.8%, cedar wood oil 0.7%). The additional value of propolis as another screening substance for fragrance allergy in these patients was low. The likelihood of a reaction to one or more of the extra fragrance allergens increased with the number of reactions to fragrance screening allergens in the standard series.
CONCLUSIONS: The number of positive reactions to fragrance screening allergens in a standard patch test series may be used as a rule of thumb for predicting a positive outcome of a more detailed testing to fragrances. Propolis is an important allergen in its own right but its value as a screening substance for fragrance allergy is limited.

Do not ingest the EO, the resin, the resinoid or the hydrosol of Balsam of Peru/Tolu

Contraindications/Safety Precautions ~ Balsam of Peru is in the “top five” contact allergens most commonly causing patch test reactions in people referred to dermatology clinics. Crude Balsam of Peru is banned by the IFA (International Fragrance Association). Essential oil may not present this problem. However, since Balsam of Tolu is not produced in the same way and even though botanically these are identical trees but with different terroir, Tolu resin may not be allergenic as Balsam of Peru.

Symbol from the Aromatherapy Book, meaning “this oil could cause a problem”^4.

Patch Test ~ If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose band-aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

References:
**^1.Langenheim, Jean H. PLANT RESINS, Chemistry, Evolution, Ecology, Ethnobotany. Timber Press. 2003**
^2.Francis N. Gachathi, and Siri Eriksen. Gums and resins
^3.Rose, Jeanne. Herbal Body Book
^4.Rose, Jeanne, The Aromatherapy Book.
⁵ https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/35225
⁶Rose, Jeanne. Herbs & Things
^7.http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils.htm
⁸Guenther’s The Essential Oils. Volume V,
Alchemy Works. E-mail (not printable)
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Book Arts e-mail
Chart Corporation, Inc., (was Pennick) 787 E. 27th St., Paterson, NJ 07504, 201/345-5554 or 973/345-2139
http://herbnature.blogspot.com/2008_04_01_archive.html
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.3763/cdev.2010.0066
La Paz, Will. Eden Botanicals. Private correspondence
Menninger, Edwin A. Fantastic Trees
Ravines, Patrick. E-mail. >Ravines@BWC.org Scents of Earth website
The New Shorter Oxford English Dictionary, Ed. Lesley Brown. Clarendon Press, Oxford 1993.

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in your use of essential oils and resins as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.
Use the herb (plant) first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2004

Balsam of Tolu 1972 and 1980, Resinoid and balsam

For more education, enroll in either the Herbal Studies Course or
The Aromatherapy Studies Course by Jeanne Rose

GALBANUM, Resin and More

Aug1

Synopsis ~ Galbanum is an oleo-gum-resin, known since ancient times as incense and perfume with a fantastic history, odor, and chemistry; an antiseptic, uplifting and anti-aging application and a pleasure to incorporate in blends and healing perfume.

Galbanum – Using the Resin, Herb and EO

Jeanne Rose files and Correspondance

Hard Galbanum resin and the essential oil over 35 years

Latin Binomial/Botanical ~ Galbanum is from the plant Ferula gummosa and a synonym is F. galbaniflua (Boiss. & Buhse) AND also a synonym is (Ferula galbanifera). It is called a gum extract; and this natural fatty gummy resin (oleo-gum-resin) and the essential oil that is steam-distilled from the resin are both used. It has a strong ‘green’ odor and is used as a fixative in perfume and incense³. See p. 95 The Aromatherapy Book for more background.

Family ~ Galbanum is from Apiaceae or Umbelliferae, a family of mostly aromatic flowering plants named after the type genus Apium and commonly known as the celery, carrot or parsley family, or simply as the umbellifers.

Naming ~ Ferula means rod or like a walking stick and gummosa means that which is gummy.

Countries of Origin ~ Galbanum comes from Europe, India, Turkey; and Eden Botanicals get their CO₂from India and Iran (Persia).
There is the soft resin called ‘Levant’ that is a very viscous product like thick honey from SW Asia and the Middle East and the hard resin called Persian Galbanum which is a coarse grainy gravel-like substance that sticks together and is brittle and used for industry. (Ms. Grieve in her Modern Herbal says just the opposite, “There are two kinds of Galbanum in commerce, viz. Levant Galbanum and the Persian Galbanum. The latter is softer than the Levant, has a more terebinthic odor, has the smell and consistency of Venice turpentine …”.⁴

General description of plant, habitat & growth ~ Galbanum is a perennial plant growing to 1 meter by 1-meter. It is hardy to zone 6. It is in flower from May to June, and the seeds ripen from June to August. The scented flowers are hermaphrodite (that is, they have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by flies. The plant is self-fertile. The plant soil must be well-drained. It cannot grow in the shade. It requires a rather dry soil.

Root of a Persian Galbanum courtesy of http://www.galbanum.org/

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield ~ Galbanum, the aromatic oleo-gum-resin is obtained from wounds made in the stem and is one of the few plants whose roots are tapped for resin. The Galbanum resin occurs in the form of tears and lumps that are round, yellow to brown, translucent and about the size of a pea. It is collected by removing soil from around the top of the root and then cutting a slice off the root and can also be obtained from incisions made in the stem. It is used medicinally and is an important ingredient of the incense originally used by the Israelites.

Yield ~ Galbanum gum contains the essential oil and upon steam-distillation yields 10-22% oil.

Contraindications ~ No hazards known.

Ferula gummosa from 1975-2017

Organoleptic Characteristics of Galbanum:

	Essential Oil – 2016 – Iran	Oleo-gum-resin from Iran
Color:	Colorless to greenish yellow	Black or very dark brown
Clarity:	clear	opaque
Viscosity:	Non-viscous to somewhat viscous	Very, very viscous
Taste:	Bitter and warm	bitter
Intensity of Odor:	2 and with great tenacity in a blend	1 with tenacity

Odor Description ~ The flowers when fresh are said to have an unpleasant smell — Roy Genders from Scented Flora of the World. The smell of Galbanum essential oil is green with subsidiary notes that are woody and herbaceous, and back notes of leather, earth, musky, spice, conifer needles and even a bit of green citrus. I have had Galbanum since 1972 and have had the scent profiled in my classes since 2000. “Green” is the best description like green beans, green peas and cut grass and like the branches of the Giant Sequoia.

A few compounds in low concentration are responsible for the interesting odor characteristics, e.g. 1,3(E),5(Z)-undecatriene (galbanolene), having a unique, transparent, marine, somewhat green and metallic odor, and 2-sec-butyl-3-methoxypyrazine (galbanum pyrazine), having a powerful pea-pod odor and a very low odor detection threshold.² Of the chemicals that makes up the scent of galbanum, these two, isobutylpyrazine and sec-butylpyrazine make up the typical odor note of green bell peppers and green peas … so that is why we describe this odor as “green”.

Solubility ~ Galbanum EO is soluble in 0.5 volume and more of 90% alcohol. On occasion some oils have been found to be hazy in 6-8 volumes of 90% alcohol but always clearly soluble in 10 volumes⁵(that means add 10 times the weight of your sample in alcohol to clearly dissolve it).

Chemistry and Chemical Components ~ The physical and chemicals composition of Galbanum has changed in the last 60 years, possibly because of the better transportation facilities.⁵ Ferula gummosa/galbaniflua is rich in monoterpenes, and sulfur. Monoterpenes such as β–pinene, α-pinene, and Δ3-carene and with over 84 bioactive constituents Galbanum essential oil also includes:α-terpinyl acetate,α-pinene, (Z)-β-ocimene, β-pinene, Δ3-carene, 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine and others.

Historical Uses ~ Pliny says that “Galbanum should be neither moist nor dry … it is taken alone in drink and cureth cough, shortness of breath, and difficultie of wind… it is used outwardly applied for sciatica and pleurisy” and goes on to mention using it with Rose oil and Nard in the ears that run with matter.

Galbanum – Plinie’s Natural History – my copy 1601

Interesting Facts ~ The deep green aroma of Galbanum represents the element of air. It is grounding, uplifting and balancing. It rejuvenates aging skin and is used as a fixative in perfumery and aromatherapy.

Galbanum oleo-gum-resin extract. This is a natural fatty gummy resin; the essential oil is steam-distilled from the resin. It has a strong green odor and is used as a fixative in perfume and incense. The gum has anti-inflammatory qualities that make it a wonderful aid for poor circulation and it can be used in hot compresses for most pain relief.

The scent of Galbanum seems to have diminished over the years and now (2018) seems less intense than it once was. Why this should be may be the result of incorrect harvesting or over-harvesting or overuse. I have shown my collection of Galbanum oil from 1975 to the present, the color is slowly changing and not necessarily from age.

GENERAL PROPERTIES of GALBANUM

Antispasmodic, carminative, expectorant, stimulant, mild antiseptic, anti-spasmodic (ancient usage), decongestant, rubefacient, and as well as a slight anti-inflammatory activity.

Properties (by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application):

Application properties include mild stimulant and antiseptic and a slight anti-inflammatory action.

Ingestion ~ It can be a carminative and so edible uses do include its (the resin) use as a condiment as the gum resin obtained from the root has a celery-like food flavor. Do not ingest the essential oil.

Inhalation ~ as an expectorant it promotes ‘spitting’ and is used for chronic bronchitis.

Physical Uses & How used (IG or AP):
Application/ Skincare ~ The essential oil especially when used with Elemi in skin products is for revitalizing aging skin and in body care products to warm. It has soothing properties, especially on aching hands, feet or joints. Its anti-inflammatory qualities make it a wonderful aid for poor circulation and can be used in hot compresses for most pain relief. Galbanum works on aging skin, wrinkles, acne and scar tissue; it is antiseptic and antimicrobial, wounds are more quickly healed.

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN) ~ I read in an article (no author listed) that Galbanum was also widely used as a component of incense and is listed in the Holy Bible as part of the sweet spices used to make Holy Incense. Holy Incense was only made for holy communication and for worship … as it was believed to be free from evil. Its preparation required certain rituals and it was forbidden to make such incense just for the pleasure of the senses¹. It is often recommended for use to heal childhood traumas. [In a quiet place, inhale the ancient scent of Galbanum while meditating on the trauma or walking a labyrinth, and removing the painful memory from your mind or at least parking it on the ‘shelf of healed memory’.]

Spiritual – Emotional blockages, negative energies, undergoing personal change, soul transformation.¹Galbanum is mentioned in the bible as part of the ‘sacred incense’.

A Galbanum recipe by Jeanne Rose

Two drops rubbed over the body or added before a bath or shower can help to calm the mind, heal bruises, ease depression, soothe mood swings, ease PMS, relax from stress, fluid retention, eczema, abscesses, musculoskeletal, and conditions pertaining to a sluggish endocrine system.¹

SOLSTICE SCENT

Inhalation Formula ~ My 2016 Solstice Scent for both winter and summer solstice is to mix 16 drops of Xmas Fir (Abies grandis), 8 drops of Blood Orange (Citrus sinensis from Israel) and 8 drops Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica) and 4 drops of Galbanum. I prefer the essential oil over the CO₂ extract as it is more intense. But in any case, this mixture of conifer, citrus, fruity wood and green is very tenacious and a wonderful combination for inhalation or ritual work. There can be a power in the essential oils that may assist you in your rituals. I like this one for its green energy that uplifts and brings green life and green things to my world.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ I suggest that you do not use this in a diffuser as it may gum up the works. Use it as it was meant to be by burning as a holy incense.

BLENDING & Perfumery ~ Galbanum works well with any conifer and with other resinous oils and in particularly as a fixative for rich deeply fragrant scents, particularly those in which a ‘green’ scent is desired. Try it in blends and perfumes with Basil, Elemi, Firs, resins, Rose Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender of the soft floral type, Oakmoss, Rose, Violet leaf and Ylang Ylang. Trying to make a floral perfume that resembles the Gardenia, a dab of Galbanum will be very helpful along with Rose, Jasmine sambac, Neroli, Rosewood, and a hint of Styrax.

HYDROSOL ~ I have never seen or used Galbanum hydrosol.

KEY USE ~ Perfume fixative and harmonizing agent.

Symbol for Juice or Sap

Jeanne Rose TOMATO TALES – GALBANUM

Galbanum along with several other resinous oils, are some of my favorites. I admit to overusing them at an earlier time and with Galbanum that overuse makes me have a green odor, like a large bag of green beans, like mowed lawn, like a green bell pepper. My other most-favorite plant is the giant Sequoia, Sequoia giganteum. The Sequoia is a monstrous tree living high in the Sierras, over 36 feet in diameter, and the first branches occur high off the ground. I despaired of ever being able to know what that odor was but twenty years ago a friend got me a Sequoia seedling. I planted that and ten years later was forever happily surprised that the scent of the mighty Sequoia branches is the same scent as the Galbanum. Fallen limbs of the giant Sequoia are sometimes distilled for an essential oil.

SCIENCE ARTICLES ~

Investigation of Compounds from Galbanum (Ferula gummosa) Boiss; F. Mortazaienezhad and M.M. Sadeghian; Abstract • Ferula gummosa Boiss. of Apiaceae family is a native wild plant of Iran, growing in the north and west mountainous regions at heights 1800-3000 m above sea level. It is propagated by the seeds at a temperature of below five degrees centigrade. The best planting season are October and November. The extract is used in the manufacture of bonds, textiles and cosmetics. Cut crosswise or longitudinally, the stem yields a sap containing a large quantity of essence, which can be extracted by water-based distillation. The fruit and leaves also contain some light-yellow essence containing nitrogenated and sulphurated compounds. Extracted and purified the essence yields the following components. (Distillation of fruit extract yielded 8.4% and that the leaves 0.845% essence). This study indicates that when extracted and purified, the sap of Ferula gummosa, thanks to its transparency and high-power bond, can be used to glue on gems and Jewelry. Finally, the extract is used in printing, textiles and perfumery industries. https://scialert.net/fulltextmobile/?doi=ajps.2006.905.906]

Antimicrobial evaluations exhibited that Galbanum oil had the best antimicrobial activity against MRSA and MSSA, followed by fennel and rosemary oil, respectively. http://biozoojournals.ro/bihbiol/cont/v5n1/bb.101102.Mahboubi.pdf

References:
¹ https://hwaairfan.wordpress.com/it-makes-good-scents/galbanum-oil/
²http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils12/EssentialOils12.htm
³Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California:
⁴Grieve, Mrs. M. A Modern Herbal. Hafner Publishing Co. 1971 (1931)
⁵Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils Vol 4. p 645
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol
https://scialert.net/fulltextmobile/?doi=ajps.2006.905.906
Jessee, Jill. Perfume Album. Krieger Publishing. 1951.
**Langenheim, Jean H. PLANT RESINS, Chemistry, Evolution, Ecology, Ethnobotany. Timber Press. 2003**
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Maury, Marguerite. The Secret of Life and Youth.
Pliny. Plinie’s Natural History – my copy 1601
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992.
http://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/galbanum-

Alchemical symbol for juice or sap

GALBANUM GREEN LIMERICK
There is a spring smell called green
It is just like a smelly green bean
Green smells Galbanum
Not like Labdanum
And the green smell makes quite the scene.

Sustainability: These items may not be sustainable in the amounts that are being used.
Endangered or not: Some of these plants are considered to be threatened and/or endangered due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping.
Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.
Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.
Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.
Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Galbanum in the desert.

Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.
Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2014

Amber EO/Resin Profile

Jun28

AMBER Resin/EO Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ 2/17/16 & 18

Synopsis: Amber oil fossilized resin to use in perfumery, fragrant rich
and a detailed odor with growth description and chemistry.

Common Name/Latin Binomial ~ Amber Resin/Oil Fossilized. This is probably Pinus succinifera, L, Family of Family Pinaceae.

“THE chemical composition of succinite (Baltic amber), its botanical origin, and methods of distinguishing it from other fossil resins, are long standing questions, the third of which has been largely solved in recent years by infrared spectrometry. In his survey, Langenheim emphasizes the botanical origin and the strong hold which Conwentz’s postulated amber source Pinus succinifera has had over subsequent workers.” —https://www.nature.com/articles/239527a0 and Langenheim, Plant Resins.

Other Common Name/Naming Information ~ The name Oleum succini is a name that simply means ‘oil amber’ and is a name given by the Pharmacopeia and not a true Latin binomial. It can be considered a ‘common name’ that you would recognize in old books.

Family ~ Pinaceae

Countries of Origins ~ Amber Resin is native to Europe, Himalayas, China and Siberia naturalized worldwide.
The so-called Amber Resins being sold in many stores are not resins at all although there may be some resin, oleoresins, or fractions of resins in them. (Labdanum is an oleoresin, for instance.) No manufacturer of these very smelly items will give out their recipe or ingredient list. They truly are highly guarded secrets. They probably are all fragrant amber resins because they contain at least some synthetics of one kind or another.

There is an amber oil (from Amber resin) that is destructively distilled from Baltic amber (fossilized tree resin) – and very hard to one that is real. Destructive distillation yields a product from a 50,000-year-old piece of fossilized pine resin. True Amber oil is from a fossilized resin to use in perfumery, fragrant rich and a detailed odor with growth description and chemistry.

Eden Botanicals Harvest Location ~ Fossilized Amber Oil is dry distilled and refined from Amber originating in the Himalaya Mountains near China. Mined not cultivated.

Endangered or Not ~ Not at this time

General description of Plant habitat and growth ~ The origin of amber (amber resin) is somewhat uncertain; it is believed to be a fossil resin, produced by the hardening of the resinous exudates of largely extinct trees of the Coniferae family. (King’s American Dispensatory, 1898, by Harvey Wickes Felter, M.D., and John Uri Lloyd, Phr. M., Ph. D.) EB Amber oil is produced from fossilized tree resin from 35-million-year old Himalayan fossilized tree resin.

Our product (Eden Botanicals) is mined and not cultivated.

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods and yields ~ This is a fossilized tree resin from trees millions of years old produced by dry distillation where the amber resin is processed over high heat until an oily substance is obtained.

Yield: I have been unable to find a documented yield for Amber oil from resin.

Organoleptic Characteristics

	Color:	dark brown to red
	Clarity:	opaque
	Viscosity:	viscous
	Taste:	bitter
	Intensity of Odor: 1-10 with 1= lowest	2-3 Bergamot & Amber =2; Rose Geranium = 4; Tea Tree= 6

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment: Smoky, resinous, leathery, woody-dry with a hint of green and low intensity but with great tenacity.

GENERAL PROPERTIES

Properties and Uses ~ Calming and thought by many to be healing.

This is a very specialized product that as a resin has been used medicinally but of the dry distillation the oily scent product is mainly used by inhalation for calming and uplifting and in perfumery. The resin and oil are used for emotional healing and in perfumery.

Jeanne Rose Uses ~ I have used the Amber oil as a general fixative in perfumery and as a low intensity base note in perfume. It lends a sweet quality to men’s cologne and works very well with smoky notes like Labdanum in Chypre perfumes.

I do not do an inhalation with the oil and prefer to burn a bit of the resin over charcoal as an incense. I do this outside and watch the smoke curl into the sky as a ritual act – to feed the gods. Using rough stone of the Baltic Amber, it burns with a resinous and conifer ‘pine-like’ scent.

Prayer or paternoster beads made from Amber have a long history.Amber Rosary beads with handmade linen thread – personalized

Application/ Skincare ~ I do not see the need to use this lovely product in any skin care formula although it could add something to a skin care odor if you use less than 5% in the scent blend and the scent blend is no more than 1.5% of the total. This becomes a most tiny portion of the total.

Diffuse/Diffusion ~ Do not diffuse

Emotional/Energetic Uses ~ Amber is alive, it is electric. The addition of this oil in a fragrant perfume blend will add an emotional component that is soothing but also uplifting. This is an ancient scent and could be used in meditation. Use only a tiny drop of the diluted Amber on a piece of cotton or cotton swab. Inhale lightly and meditate or do your yoga. Think of your ancient self.

Resin itself exudes from a plant to heal the wound and thus you can say that the energetic use of Amber to ‘heal that which is broken’.

Key Use ~ Perfumery

PERFUMERY

BLENDING with formula – True Amber oil is a pleasant addition to any high-end perfumery project especially as a bridge note or in the base note but not accord. Amber oil is soluble in alcohol. See perfume formula below.

Blends Best with ~ Angelica, Balsam of Peru, Cedarwood (Cedrus spp.), Champaca, Cinnamon bark, Cacao, Balsam fir, Rose Geranium, Jasmine, Labdanum, Liquidamber Styrax, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood of any kind, Tobacco, Tuberose, Vanilla, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang.

HYDROSOL: None known

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

Amber bracelets, Amber oil, Amber succinite from China

Historical Uses: Amber has been appreciated for its color and beauty in medicine and jewelry since Neolithic times (10,000 BC). The origin of amber is somewhat uncertain; it is believed to be a fossil resin, produced by the hardening of the resinous exudates of largely extinct trees of the Coniferae family. The excellent author, Jean Langenheim in her fantastic book, Plant Resins, has much to say on this resin as it has been known and through a lengthy geologic time. Sources of Amber include the Dominican Republic in the Newe Worlde and the “Baltic area of the Olde Worlde. It exists all over the world in many countries, although the Baltic amber constitutes the largest and most widespread deposition of amber in the world¹.”^.

“It is not strictly true that there are no pure amber oils. There is an amber oil that is destructively distilled from Baltic amber (fossilized tree resin) – although it is rare and hard to get – and very hard to find a real one that was distilled properly. It is not an essential oil (in my book) and so I will still maintain that there is no true amber essential oil. How can you distill an essential oil from a 50,000-year-old piece of fossilized pine resin? Destructive distillation may yield oil but not an essential oil as we are used to using the term.” — Will in 2010.

•

Interesting Information: The Amber that is sold as EO is a unique substance that is mined and dry-distilled.

Physiochemical Properties

Chemical Components ~ The oil is a Complex one consisting of 41% essential oil components and 59% artifacts from the distillation process and the extreme age of the original fossilized resin.
Solubility –Soluble in alcohol and recommended to use at 5% or 5 parts Amber oil to 95 parts of 95% neutral grain or grape spirits.
Solubility in water: insoluble
Soluble in alcohol and fixed oils.
Specific Gravity: 1.011 +/-0.002
Refractive Index: 1.5066 +/- 0.001
Comparison of Main Components ~Cadalene, Calamenene-cis, Calamenene-trans, Calacorene, Calamenene-5-hydroxy-cis

Abstract/Scientific Data: A Brief Exposition of the Science of Mechanical Electricity: Or Electricity Proper; Subsidiary to the Course of Chemical Instruction in the University of Pennsylvania … by Robert Hare, J.G. Auner. 1840

Contradictions: There are many fragrant products called ‘amber’. Most are made from a combination of EO that include Benzoin or Styrax and any number of other scents. Read your label carefully. If it says ‘fragrant oil’ or ‘fragrance’ you can be sure the product is a synthetic version of what you truly want. It is best that you not use these products.

Eden Botanical amber is the dry distillation of the mineralized amber and is safe to use.

Safety Precautions: Do not ingest, do not inhale the vapor. Frequent contact may cause sensitization.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

Do not ingest EO.

References:
^1.Langenheim, Jean H. PLANT RESINS, Chemistry, Evolution, Ecology, Ethnobotany. Timber Press. 2003
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. North Atlantic Books. 2000:
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose .2015 edition. San Francisco, California

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Amber ~ March-2014

Amber at the end of a life,
Is akin to a stubborn wife.
One day she’s nice
The next she’s rife
With the specter of an angry life.

Labdanum/Cistus Resin_EO_Hydrosol

Jun24

Synopsis ~ Labdanum and Cistus are not the same, but they come from the same plant and both have important use in perfumery – both with a luscious fragrant rich scent. This profile provides a detailed description with growth, description, chemistry, odor and uses.

LABDANUM/Cistus Resin & EO/Hydrosol Profile
By Jeanne Rose ~ July 2018

Cistus ladanifer – the plant that produces Cistus oil and Labdanum resin

INTRODUCTION: Labdanum and Cistus. This plain plant with its wondrous resin has been one of my favorites since I first learned of it back in 1969. I knew of Cistus as a plant growing in the San Francisco Arboretum but here in San Francisco it has very little odor as it doesn’t get hot enough. One day, some time ago, in June when it was clear, sunny and very hot I rubbed the leaves and they were sticky and fragrant. That is when I began to study it in my antiquarian herbals, one of which I had acquired back in 1970 (Dioscorides). How can anyone ignore a plant that was once harvested from the wool of goats?

COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL: CISTUS and LABDANUM are two products of the Cistus ladanifer (syn. ladaniferous) plant. Cistus is the essential oil distilled from the leaves and twigs of the same plant that produces the resin called Labdanum that is scraped from the leaves. Other Cistus species that are also used for Cistus EO and Labdanum resin include Cistus creticus and the subspecies incanus).

Family: Cistaceae is a family of perennial shrubs, flowering plants, found on dry and rocky soil with about 20 species.

Other Common Name/Naming Information: Cistus is from the Greek and simply means Rock rose because they frequent rocky-places, and this is a common name that is given to several other species of plants as well. The common Greek name is simply ladan. Cistus ladanifer is also called the gum Rockrose and the resin also called Ladanum.

Naming misinformation: Some people misspell and misuse the word Laudanum for Labdanum. Laudanum (a ‘u’ not a ‘b’) is a tincture of opium containing approximately 10% powdered opium by weight (the equivalent of 1% morphine). Reddish-brown and extremely bitter. Labdanum (with a ‘b’ not a ‘u’) is the resin from the plant Cistus.

COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS: Portugal, Morocco, Spain and the Canary Islands.

Eden Botanicals Harvest Location: Spain and my Cistus hydrosol is from Portugal.

ENDANGERED OR NOT: On the list of threatened plants.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH: Cistus ladanifer is an evergreen shrub and grows quickly to a height of about 5 feet and 3+ feet wide. They are thermophilous plants, meaning heat-loving and which require open, sunny places. It likes dry granitic hills with sandy well-drained soil and can tolerate heat, drought and sea exposure. It flowers in June, and though the flowers have both male and female parts, it is self-incompatible as the pollen can germinate and obstruct the stigma. Some books suggest that it is self-fertile. The plant is bee-pollinated. The flowers are white or pink with a simple structure. Cistus species are used as food plants by the larvae of some butterfly species. The petals are papery and crumpled, most commonly pure white, with numerous bright yellow stamens in the center and there is also a form which has a dark purple or crimson blotch at the base of each petal. The leaves are elongated and covered with glandular trichomes that secrete a viscous gummy balsam that exudes when it is hot. Because of the content of pinene, the plant is quite flammable, possibly can self-ignite, and is responsible for some serious fires. Spain is a leading producer of Labdanum.

PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS:

There are four Labdanum products of the Cistus plant + one Cistus steam-distillate from the leaves and twigs: the gum collected from the leaves and twigs during the hottest time of the year; the resinoid produced by treating the gum with hot alcohol and concentrating it; the EO collected from the steam-distillation of the crude gum; and the concrete and absolute of Labdanum which are extracted by volatile solvents.

Labdanum resin is obtained by collecting and boiling the twigs in the spring and early summer, skimming off the resin as it comes to the surface. “Labdanum Absolute is obtained by solvent extraction of the resin – and is very much different in scent and color and viscosity from steam distilled Cistus essential oil from the leaves. The changing climate conditions, such as chilly early springs with very high summer temperatures, is contributing to lower yields, has reduced chemical complexity and increased the costs for the growers/collectors. However, both Labdanum and Cistus extractions result in intense, powerful aromas, used in very low percentages.” Yield: 0.1% – 0.2%

For Cistus essential oil, direct steam distillation of the young twigs and leaves produces the traditional quality essential oil of Spanish Cistus. The distillation yield is very low, only around 0.1% of the fresh plant.
Yield: Results are discussed from 0.1% to 0.3%.

ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS:

Odor Description/ Aroma Assessment:

Cistus EO has a peculiar, warm, fruity-floral scent, herbaceous and notes of moss, camphor, powder and leather-hay odor that is intense but less tenacious than Labdanum and is used with Lavender in spicy men’s products.

_____Labdanum has a rich, tenacious, but not intense odor of sweetness, smoky-woody, leather, powder, earthy-moss, with back notes of honey-animalic, floral with fruity overtones. It is an odor loved by me, by many and extraordinarily useful in many types of perfume application. It recalls the odor of ambergris and is in fact used as a vegetable substitute for ambergris in a perfume base note or as a fixative. The odor is tenacious in a blend but not intense, it lends a subtle richness to any perfume you use it in.

GENERAL PROPERTIES

Labdanum was historically known and used in herbal medicine for 1000s of years and is still used in the preparation of perfume. Cistus is considered antiviral, antibacterial, and anti-arthritic.

Cistus EO in the Arctander book

Labdanum is the sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient.

Properties and Uses:

Cistus leaf tea is useful for children illness such as whooping cough and for adults for general all-over body inflammation.

Cistus tea is used as a treatment for Lyme Disease. The conclusion of the study, showed that to date, clinical work with wild harvested pure Sardinian Cistus tea and whole leaf Stevia is the least invasive yet most effective treatment for Lyme disease and many other modern chronic illnesses, caused by persistent and hidden infections. For more information read “Dr. Klinghardt Biological Lyme Protocol” at the Klinghardt Institute page. See the entire article at https://kiscience.com/sardinian-cistus-incanus/

Application/Skincare Uses: Cistus EO and tea has great application in skin care, particularly oily skin, acne skin and irritated skin. Use it in your lotions, other creams and clay masks using white clay. It is used for mature skin, wrinkles and the EO as an inhalant for coughs and bronchitis.

Cistus Anti-Wrinkle Lotion, a recipe by Jeanne Rose

I like to purchase an 8-oz bottle of pre-made unscented lotion with organically grown ingredients and then add my own special additions. If the lotion is thick I will thin it with some Rosemary or Cistus hydrosol until it is the texture that I like. Then I add 5 drops of Cistus EO to an ounce of my thinned lotion. I add the drops and with a long narrow thin wooden spoon, I stir in the EO, stirring around and around, up and down, figure 8 round and round. This is a sing-song that I do until the EO and hydrosol is thoroughly incorporated into the lotion. I only make an ounce at a time as it is easy to do and keeps the balance of the lotion fresh to make something else with. I apply this Cistus Lotion alternately with the Elemi/Galbanum Lotion every evening before bed.
https://jeanne-blog.com/elemi-resin-herb-eo/

• • •

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN): Labdanum is used by inhalation and is considered to have a powerful ability to bring up past lives and past or buried memories. It is very helpful in ritual work.

Diffuse/Diffusion: Do not diffuse Labdanum as it is a sticky resin and even the steam-distilled product has the ability to gum up your diffusor. I suggest that you learn to use this substance in other ways and use the Labdanum and the Cistus essential oil in your perfumes.

HYDROSOL USES ~ Cistus hydrosol is available and just a wonderful product to use. It is bright and fresh and cleansing to the skin. I get mine from “Naturalness” in Portugal and it is available through them. This wonderful product is harvested using the stems and the leaves in the early morning until noon using pure gravity supplied water from a stream and steam-distillation. Use it as a spray after putting on make-up to set it, or on your clothes that have been crushed in a suitcase to freshen them or on the pillows before sleep. You can also carry it in your purse to spray on utensils before you use them and on hair or hands to refresh them. I am particularly fond of Cistus hydrosol.

The distiller recommends it : Cistus hydrosol is a powerful but gentle astringent. It is used as a daily toner for extremely oily, acne-prone, or irritated skin. For dry skin, only use as a 20% solution with other hydrosols or distilled water.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

HERBAL USES ~ “The use of the Cistus incanus has a long history and can be traced back to the 4th century BC. In the Middle East, northern Africa and the European Mediterranean region the Cistus incanus was enjoyed as a wellness tea for breakfast and indeed right throughout the day as a drink for relaxing after a strenuous day. When guests arrived, it was common to offer a freshly boiled pot of the Cistus tea. “The knowledge of the benefits of this tea were passed on late into the middle Ages.”³

See above for reference to the use of Cistus leaf tea as a treatment for Lyme disease.

JEANNE ROSE’S TOMATO TALES

A Personal Story of Labdanum

Labdanum resin/resinoid/absolute/EO is a favorite of mine and when I teach Perfumery classes I encourage the students to use my absolute that dates back to 1969. We make an old perfume called Chypre in the class. See formulas at the end and read my Natural Perfumery booklet.

Years ago, about 1970, I made a mixture of Labdanum resin that I had read in an old herbal that also used Benzoin and Storax with Civet, spike Lavender and spices. It was to be inhaled to ‘comforte the brain’. It looked interesting and certainly doable and whose brain does not need a certain amount of comforting. I found it was like playing with mud and very messy. I wrote about this in my first book, Herbs & Things, and if you want to try it, there are two recipes on pages 153-154.

These raw resins can stick almost permanently to everything. If you make it … “keep one mortar and pestle aside just for this type of recipe or for any recipe that calls for the heating of ‘beating’ of a resin. It was nearly impossible to roll the combination into a ball especially with the stinky civet, so I finally dipped my hands into the powdered Benzoin and Storax (sort of like dipping your hands into flour to roll out bread or cookie dough) and rolled the resin around. This gooey mess stuck very tenaciously to my hands and it took two days to wash it all off, but at least now I had a ball of resin. I then pierced the ball with a bodkin (big blunt needle with big eye) and hung it from a string.

It immediately oozed away from the string, plopped to the ground, and proceeded to ooze amoebically about the floor, peeling up paint as it went. It was then that I finally realized the exact nature of this pomander. It was and is ever-flowing and takes on the shape of whatever object it is on or in. I captured the now pancake-shaped resin, rolled more Storax into it and put in on the ledge above a window. Within a day it had migrated off the shelf and down the wall. It smelled deliciously but it left a trail of black resin (rather like the slime trail of a snail). Again, I captured it and this time rolled it up and stuck it in the freezer, to freeze. After thinking about it for some time I let it out of the freezer and put it immediately into a small black leather bag. We call it the Mental-Health Bag. The more you massage the bag, the more it smells, the better you feel, and the more powerful and tranquilizing its effect on the brain.”¹ — Herbs & Things.

And I still have this fragrant Bag of Mental Health creeping around after 47 years.

Chemical Components: Comparison of Main Components: “The main components were α‐pinene (39%), viridiflorol (11.8%), ledol (3.3%) and bornyl acetate (3.1%). The occurrence of cyclosativene, γ‐cadinene, (E)‐β‐farnesene and β‐eudesmol in the essential oil of Cistus ladaniferus is reported here for the first time. Then, in order to study the chemical variability of individual oils, 20 samples were examined. α‐Pinene (11.1–47.4%) was the most abundant component in 18 of the 20 samples, followed by trans‐pinocarveol (4.4–10.9%) and viridiflorol (4.7–10.7%). Two samples exhibited a different chemical composition, not as yet described, characterized by the predominance of viridiflorol (20–22.6%), ledol (6.4–6.7%) and trans‐pinocarveol (5.4–8.6%).” © 1997 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. — Composition of the Essential Oil of Cistus ladaniferus L. Cultivated in Corsica (France) by J. P. Mariotti , F. Tomi , J. Casanova , J. Costa , A. F. Bernardini , First published: 28 April 1999

Jeanne Rose collection of Cistus & Labdanum from 1972 to the present

HISTORY ~ The plant has been known since ancient times and has been described by Dioscorides, Herodotus and Pliny. Dioscorides says, “Now, that which we call Ladanum, is made of this plant. For the Hee goats, & shee goates, feeding on the leaues hereof, doe manifestly beare away the fatnesse of them on their beards and on their thighs, because it is of a viscous nature, which taken off thence they straine, & hauing fashioned them into little balls, lay them vp in store.”⁴

In ancient times, labdanum gum from Cistus creticus, a close relative of the species Cistus ladanifer – the only one used today – was collected in Crete in two ways: “Pliny says that the gum was harvested by combing the coats of goats that grazed in the cistus-covered hillsides; and later it was collected by thrashing the branches of the cistus plants with a leather strap and then scraping that strap with a knife. Cistus’ glutinous properties made these forms of harvesting possible. Today, most cistus production takes place in Spain, where the leafy branches are collected using a sickle before being processed.”²But this may be where its history of being ‘leather scented’ comes from.

“In ancient Egypt, the false goat-hair beards of the pharaohs were impregnated with labdanum to surround these men with an impressive aura of distinction. The Cypriotes mixed Labdanum with Styrax and Calamus oil, thereby creating an early masterpiece of perfumery. The Crusaders, when they conquered the island, became so enthusiastic about the fragrance that they brought the recipe to the rest of Europe. It was known as the ‘Chypre’-theme, it is still employed in modern perfumery.”

Cistus creticus, has a subspecies, C. incanus , and is thought to be the ‘myrrh’ of Genesis. The resin of both are obtained by boiling twigs and skimming the resin from the surface of the water. —Mabberly.

NATURAL PERFUMERY

Labdanum is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. It has a long history of use in herbal medicine and as a perfume ingredient. Labdanum is a powerful fixative in perfumery and is valued as a substitute to replace ambergris.

Modern uses –Labdanum is produced today mainly for the perfume industry. The raw resin is usually extracted by boiling the leaves and twigs. An absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation.

The raw gum is a dark brown, fragrant mass containing up to 20% or more of water. It is plastic but not pourable and becomes brittle with age. The absolute is dark amber-green and very thick at room temperature. The fragrance more refined than the raw resin. The odor is very rich, complex and tenacious. Labdanum is much valued in perfumery because of its resemblance to ambergris.

In order to distinguish between Labdanum Absolute (which is usually the absolute from concrete extract of the plant material) and Labdanum Gum Absolute, the suppliers have resorted to using various odd names for their products. These products should have at least one thing in common: alcohol solubility. Labdanum Resin Absolute is a fairly logical designation for the alcoholic extract of crude Labdanum gum. In other words, it is an alcohol resinoid of Labdanum, prepared in a one-step hot or cold extraction. This product is also the cheapest of all the available alcohol soluble and generally applicable Labdanum extracts. Blends well with citrus oils.

To use the thick gum or the absolute in perfumery, it is most useful to dilute it 50•50 by volume with 95% neutral spirits (I prefer 95% neutral grape spirits). It will slowly dissolve in the alcohol, especially if kept warm or over a warm water bath. Always watch what you are doing and do not leave or abandon any warming resin in alcohol — that will surely be the time that something negative will happen.

Blends Best with: Labdanum – abs … The concrete is alcohol extracted to obtain the absolute. It is semi-solid soft and sticky green colored substance. It needs to be diluted in (grape spirits) alcohol to be used. The scent is balsam, herbal and spicy resin, warm and rich. Works well with citrus, Lavender bases, green and conifer scents. There are many types of absolute: from concrete, from resinoids. Labdanum 50•50 is Labdanum diluted 50% with neutral spirits. Various types of essential oil are produced by the steam-distillation of the leaves, twig and are usually called Cistus EO.

BLENDING

Galbanum & Labdanum/Cistus Base Accord

Dilute each of your Galbanum and Labdanum 50•50 with neutral grape spirits.
Let the above age and meld for a week.
Take 12 drops of Galbanum (50•50) and 12 drops of (50•50) Labdanum (and Cistus if you wish) and mix together. Age it for 1-week. Smell and experience.
After it ages, you can add equal amount of grape spirits to make a 25% pure scent base. Give it a name that you will remember.

A CHYPRE PERFUME

A Simple Chypre Perfume is made as follows:

5 drops of Bergamot + 5 drops White Grapefruit + 5 drops of Clary Sage with sclareol

1 drop of Oakmoss dissolved in several drops of alcohol

5 drops of Patchouli + 2 drops of Rose + 1 drop of Neroli

3 drops of Labdanum (pre-dilute in alcohol or purchase the Eden Botanicals Clear + 3 drops Atlas Cedarwood

The total equals 30 drops. Age this for at least 2 weeks (maybe more) and then add 90 drops of alcohol (95%) and age again for 3 weeks before you decide to do or not do anything else.

Equals 4 ml of finished scent at 25% perfume ingredients by volume.

INTERESTING INFORMATION: The Ladanesterion or lambadistrion is the tool made of leather leads used to comb out the Labdanum from the Cistus plant. It was described Pedanios Dioscorides in the 1^st century AC. It was also described by the French botanist, Joseph Pitton de Tournefort, in his travel in Crete in 1700. The tool today has been replaced with plastic.

Abstract/Scientific Data: Anti-Dengue Virus Activity of the Oleoresin Labdanum of Cistus creticus.

During the epidemics of the mediaeval period, doctors in Byzantium and Italy developed the “Alipta muscata” as a preventive medicine against epidemics. When treating the “black death” doctors constantly used it for self-medication. The main ingredient of “Alipta muscata” was the oleoresin labdanum of Cistus creticus L. [1]. While the “black death” is mostly interpreted as Yersinia pestis, there is also an alternative interpretation as a viral hemorrhagic fever [2]. We tested several extracts and fractions of labdanum on their activity against the dengue virus (DENV-2 strain 00st-22A) in in vitro cultures on Vero cells (96-well-plates, 5 days). This haemorrhagic fever affects up to 500 million patients annually with no chemotherapeutic agent available and causes 20.000 deaths. Preliminary experiments with a labdanum full extract did not yield measurable results due to cytotoxic effects against Vero cells. In all following experiments, cell viability was constantly checked using the MTT-test. Fractionation of the dichloromethane raw-extract by liquid-liquid-extraction and column-chromatography on silica-gel (gradient elution with Hexane, EtOAc, CHCl₃, MeOH) succeeded in separating the anti-viral activity of labdanum from its cytotoxic effect. In the most active fraction GS5 at 30 µg/ml, the dengue virus proliferation was 100% suppressed and cell viability over 90%. Structural elucidation of major constituents of GS5 is currently ongoing. Claims concerning the antiviral activity of above ground parts of C. creticus have been made previously, but these generally ascribe this activity to hot water soluble polyphenols and propose an unspecific tanning effect of the viral surface proteins as the mechanism of action [3]. We describe an antiviral activity of a dichloromethane extract of labdanum against a virulent hemorrhagic fever like dengue for the first time.

— https://www.thieme-connect.com/products/ejournals/abstract/10.1055/s-0037-1608551

KEY USE: The Oil of Perfumery

REFERENCES:
¹Rose, Jeanne. Herbs & Things. Only available from jeannerose.net with coil binding.
²http://www.albertvieille.com/en/products/86-labdanum-resinoid-spain.html
³http://labdanum-creta.blogspot.com/2010/04/cistus-incanus-power-of-rock-rose-menu.html
⁴ Greek Herbal of Dioscorides. Hafner Publishing Company. 1933 from the great work of first century A.D.
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Elizabeth, NJ. 1960
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume VI. Reprint 1972.
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose .2015 edition. San Francisco, California
http://www.andalucia.com/environment/wildflowers/the-gum-cistu
Langenheim, Jean H. Plant Resins. Timber Press. 2003
Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
Pliny. Plinie’s Natural History. My copy is dated 1601.
Poucher, William A. Perfumes and Cosmetics. Van Nostrand Company. 1923
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. North Atlantic Books. 2000
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. JeanneRose.com. 2002

Sustainability: These items may not be sustainable in the amounts that are being used.

Endangered or not: Some of these plants are considered to be threatened and/or endangered due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping.

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Labdanum Limerick

Labdanum is a resin that oozes
Diluted it works on your bruises
Cistus the leaf
Is good on beef
And in perfumery it always amuses.

—JeanneRose2018

Odor Profile of Labdanum resinoid diluted 50•50 with 95% grape alcohol

Elemi Resin, ‘Herb’, & EO

Jun1

Synopsis: Elemi, native to Philippines, bark resin extraction and steam distillation, the EO is clear and pale yellow with a citrus scent, is therapeutic and used in perfumery as a bridge note or fixative and in skin care (with Galbanum) to rejuvenate and soothe the complexion. The resin has a history of medicinal uses.

ELEMI Resin & Essential Oil Profile & Uses

Jeanne Rose

Elemi EO and resin 2016 and 2018

Latin Binomial/Botanical (Canarium luzonicum) (Blume) A.Gray and from Family Burseraceae. The tree bark produces a resin which is normally grouped as a balsam, it is more viscous than an oleoresin, very gooey, soft and malleable and very fragrant. When fresh it is like honey that has crystalized and will harden if left out.

Family – Burseraceae and this is the same family that produces Frankincense and Myrrh. The family Burseraceae is composed of about 16-20 genera of shrubs and trees.

Naming ~ Elemi is known as “Pili” in the Philippines. Elemi is a common name for resinous items that are used as varnishes, printing inks and ointments. The word Elemi, itself in Arabic, the translation is similar to the saying “as above, so below”.

History: “It was Magellan’s discovery of the Philippines in 1521 that led to Manila elemi – known for its medicinal properties and fragrance – being introduced to Europe and the Middle East. The product’s name dates from this period, from the Arabic El-lemi. Its use in “Chinese incense” for religious ceremonies was already being mentioned in China in the 7th century. Further, it was used as a fumigant to perfume homes. Small bags of elemi were also worn around the neck in that era. Starting in the 18th century, the West began regularly using elemi for its therapeutic properties, and it is mentioned in many texts, including as “the inventory of simple drugs that must always be kept on hand in the King’s hospital pharmacies.” ²

Countries of Origin: Native to the Philippines. Manila Elemi, is a resin (from the bark) grouped in the balsam category, is more viscous than an oleoresin; it is semisolid and quite fragrant. The Philippine Elemi resin, (Canarium luzonicum) is also one of the best known and the source of the world’s largest supply.

General description of plant, habitat & growth: It grows in lowland rainforest, and primary forests at low and medium elevations. It is an evergreen tree about 30 meters in height, pollinated by insects and not self-fertile. The resin comes from both cultivated and wild trees.

Elemi oleo-Resin – 2018

Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods & yield: The tree bark of Canarium produces large quantities of the resin over a period of months. It is available both in the dry season as well as the wet and there is greater flow of resin during the wet season. A mature tree can produce up to five kilograms of Elemi a year. The gum is then shipped to warehouses using large palm fronds, placed in large wooden crates for export.

Elemi EO and CO₂ is extracted from the bark resin using steam distillation or super critical carbon dioxide from a tropical tree native to the Philippines. It is a member of the Burseraceae plant family and is closely related to Frankincense and Myrrh resin.

Yield ~ 13-25% from the resin. Some sources mention yields as low as 3-6%.

Endangered or not: This particular species tree is considered to be threatened and/vulnerable due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping. Some species of Canarium are also considered to be invasive.

Organoleptic Characteristics of Resin and EO:

	Resin	EO
Color:	Pale yellow	Pale yellow to colorless
Clarity:	opaque	clear
Viscosity:	Very viscous	Non-viscous
Taste:	none	Bitter, aromatic
Intensity of Odor: 1-10 • 1 is least intense	3	4-5

Odor Description: This oil has a clear to yellow hue and is non-viscous, tastes bitter, and is medium intense with a citrus resin scent. The odor of some Elemi EO is somewhat like the flower and leaf of Choisya in the spring when it is full of phellandrene. The odor of the principal oil constituent is alpha-phellandrene (more in spring of Choisya) and the odor has been described as peppery-minty with a slightly citrusy note. Phellandrene can be absorbed through the skin. Thus, the hydrosol of this resin is excellent in the bath or as a body spray and the EO useful in the care of the skin. It is anti-inflammatory.

Solubility: When you see Elemi discussed, it will often time be described as a gum resin, resin or an oleo-resin. Because each of these words have different meanings (please see https://jeanne-blog.com/resin-resinoids-gums-eo/ for definition); I conducted my own simple experiment in determining the solubility of Elemi in water (to see if it was a gum), in alcohol (determine how quickly it might dissolve) and in oil (to see if it could be described as an oleo-resin). It was a revelation.

The solubility of Elemi is Soluble in 0.5 to 5 vol. of 90% alcohol; and usually soluble in 5-10 vol. of 80% alcohol. It is about 30-50% soluble in oil and by my own experiment NOT soluble in water and thus it is an oleo-resin and not a gum-resin.

5/27/18 At 9:30 A.M.
Day 1. Using 15 ml. Of 95% Neutral Grape Spirits; Or A Combination of Sunflower/Jojoba Oil; Or Distilled Water.
Day 2. Dissolving in alcohol; slightly dissolved in oil; not dissolving in water.
Day 3. Dissolved in alcohol; 30-50% dissolved in oil; not dissolved in water. [not a gum]

Chemical Components: A study on the composition of Manila Elemi essential oil from the distillation of Elemi resin yielded 39 compounds, with the most abundant being phellandrene or limonene. Limonene for some tests was at 56%, and in other tests was phellandrene 25-28% or higher. These components change depending on where and when the tree was harvested and distilled. Constituents are phellandrene and limonene with smaller amounts of elemol, elemicine, dipentene and terpineol.

The soft nature of Elemi results in part from the large quantity of liquid sesquiterpenes. It sometimes crystallizes from the triterpenes and becomes opaque and white.⁴The optical rotation of this EO and the fresh resin changes if stored in sunlight and care should be taken to keep either in a dark container. For the resin a box will be sufficient and for large amounts of the oil, brown glass is best.

Interesting Facts: Interesting Information and History about Elemi: When Frankincense became too costly and scarce for mass consumption, Elemi quickly became a logical replacement, offering many of the same therapeutic benefits. In Arabic, a translation of Elemi is similar to the saying “as above, so below”. It was revered as an oil of the Gods and, like Frankincense, was used in meditation and prayer. While Frankincense is fruity and herbal when burned, Elemi delivers a fresh, citrus-spicy aroma and with more smoke.

PROPERTIES OF ELEMI RESIN AND ESSENTIAL OIL

Elemi resin is antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, antispasmodic, and rubefacient; is used in plasters to ease coughing. A strong antiseptic, Elemi protects against bacterial and viral infections, fungus and septic shock if used in medicine. Its resin is soft, odorous and has the texture of thick honey. It was formerly exported for the European pharmaceutical trade as Manila or Philippine gum Elemi for use as an ointment for healing wounds and as a plaster. The valuable resin, called ‘Pili’, or Manila elemi or ‘breabianca’, is used as an ingredient in the manufacture of plastics, printing inks and perfumes. It is also used by the Spaniards for ship repairs.

Raw nuts are a purgative.

Properties (by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application):

Manila elemi (the resin obtained from the tree), and the essential oil distilled from the resin, have a long history of medicinal use. They are considered to be antibacterial, antifungal, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic and rubefacient.

Physical Uses & How used (IG or AP):

Application – AP: The resin can be melted and used in an ointment for wounds . The resin is applied externally in salve to arthritic and rheumatic joints, boils, abscesses, furuncles, burns and sores. It is heated and applied to the chest as a poultice to stop severe coughing. The essential oil is an ingredient of a commercial preparation that is a natural anti-louse foaming gel that also contains Echinacea purpurea.

Ingestion – IG: A corn-sized drop of the resin is taken with water in the treatment of fevers and chills.

Inhalation – IN: Skilled practitioners have incorporated the use of Elemi essential oil by inhalation to address bronchial and chest congestion, due to its expectorant and stimulant properties.

Use the essential oils in moderation. Choose to use the herb tea or resin more often.

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN):

Inhalation – IN: The resin burns smoky but with a very pleasant citrus scent. Inhaled it is thought to stimulate mental and psychic ability and gives spiritual balance and calms the mind. The smoke is used by inhalation “to treat the thymus gland.^3”

Elemi resin – AP for the 3^rd chakra, the solar plexus, vibrates in yellow, the sound is E, and its scent is citrus-like and helps to balance your fire spirit.

Emotional Attributes: The smoke is cleansing/purifying, strengthening and for creativity, meditation and prayer. “On the emotional system elemi oil imparts a strengthening, balancing and centering action which makes it valuable in meditation. Use it to stimulate mental ability when you are suffering from stress, nervous exhaustion or simply feeling sluggish. Elemi essential oil can be used to help dispel loneliness and create a more positive outlook and encourage hopefulness.”⁵

Elemi, the resin smells citrus
But always sweetly odiferous
Gooey, it’s true
And so sticky too
But one thing it’s not is cruciferous.—2018

USING ELEMI

HERBAL USES ~ One species of Canarium seed, Canarium ovatum, is used in the traditional Chinese dessert called ‘mooncakes’, “The kernel (seed) is a major ingredient in this famous Chinese festive dessert”. However, kernels from some trees may be bitter, fibrous or have a turpentine odor. Boiled Elemi pulp called pili resembles the sweet potato in texture, it is oily (about 12%) and is considered to have food value similar to the Avocado. Pulp oil can be used for cooking. Young shoots from the tree are used in salads, and the fruit pulp is eaten after it is boiled and seasoned.¹” The tree bark is commonly used for postpartum baths.

SKIN CARE – ELEMI ~ Canarium luzonicum, wild resin is used by CO₂ extraction and steam-distilled EO. Marguerite Maury believed that oils of Elemi with Galbanum would rejuvenate the complexion and eventually the body. It is used in products and perfumery. Try this combination of two resins oils in your skin-nurturing ritual; protect and nourish the skin with a 2% combination of these two ingredients in your night cream and daytime protection cream. In skincare, it has been used to rejuvenate and heal wounds topically, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It is widely used as a fixative in fragrances, soaps and cosmetics.

DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Elemi is an oleo-resin that is very soft and ‘gummy’ and thus has the ability to clog up a diffuser. Suggest that you try something else for that lovely citrus scent, like a combination of Lemon-Grapefruit-Orange CP (cold-pressed) in your diffuser. Use Elemi, the resin, burned on charcoal to clear the spirit of your home.

I always use charcoal, to burn resin, as that is the holy incense. I do it outside. And see the smoke curl into the air, and smell what is left in the air. It is a holy thing. Resin is burned because it is fragrant and the “food of the gods” which they inhale. Burning incense is to feed the gods and it is a meditative process.

BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~

Blending Tips: Elemi EO blends well with rose and other florals, adding a complex, spicy-citrus note. It contributes a unique freshness to Frankincense, Myrrh, Labdanum, Rosemary cineol, Lavender and Sage.

Perfumery: Elemi EO may be used as part of an excellent base note where its complexity is at once earthy and citrusy. During massage and aromatherapy, it can be inhaled to reduce stress-related conditions and bring a feeling of peace and wellbeing.

HYDROSOL ~ I have not as yet had the opportunity to try an Elemi leaf, bark or resin hydrosol.

Key Use: ‘Resin for Skin Rejuvenation’ — M. Maury

Science article: Elemi contains dipentene and elemicine and these are responsible for Elemi being a strong antiseptic and to protect wounds; as well as being a strong expectorant.

https://www.discoverlsp.com/news/chemical-focus.html

References:
Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils . Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, Florida. 1972 reprint
https://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Canarium+luzonicum
¹http://www.worldagroforestry.org/treedb2/speciesprofile.php?Spid=425
http://www.scents-of-earth.com/elemi.html
² http://www.albertvieille.com/en/products/55-elemi-essential-oil-philippines.html
⁵ https://www.quinessence.com/blog/elemi-essential-oil
⁴Langenheim, Plant Resins
Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. /books.html
³Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book Applications & Inhalations. /books.html

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Elemi ~ A corny Jeanne Rose Limerick
Elemi an oil that smells woody
It doesn’t like wearing a hoody
When I need a citrus smell
I pick one that’s well….
Sort of Elemi but Femi.

Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.
Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2010

RESIN, RESINOIDS, GUMS, ESSENTIAL OILS

Apr29

Synopsis ~ to help the student of aromatic essences to understand the nature of particular plant exudates, resins and resinoids. Over 25 different resin, resinoids and gums are discussed.

RESIN, IS IT EVEN SUSTAINABLE?

A Brief Overview

By Jeanne Rose

Elemi resin (Canarium luzonicum)

What is Resin? Jean Langenheim, a true expert in the field, defines a resin as “primarily a lipid-soluble mixture of volatile and nonvolatile compounds that are secreted in specialized structures and of potential significance in ecological interactions.”. Her book, Plant Resins is simply all about resins, almost 600 pages in length and is absolutely a fantastic resource. Furthermore, she is a Professor Emeritus in the Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at UCSC (Santa Cruz), and is considered a pioneer for women in science.

“The hard-transparent resin, such as the copal, dammar, mastic, and sandarac, are principally used for varnishes and adhesives, while the softer odoriferous oleo-resins (frankincense, elemi, turpentine, copaiba), and gum resins containing essential oils (ammoniacum, asafoetida, gamboge, myrrh, and scammony) are more used for therapeutic purposes, food and incense.” — Wikipedia

This short paper is to help the student of aromatic essences to understand the nature of these particular plant exudates. It also includes the various items that are usually discussed with the resin such as resinoids – compounds extracted from resins; gums – water-loving complex sugars; gum resins; oleoresins; oleo-gum-resins; balsams; and sometimes other items.

Oils courtesy of Eden Botanicals

> In Alphabetical order

Gums can be natural or synthetic. Our discussion only allows for natural gums. Gums are polysaccharides that are water soluble and secreted by cavities in the plant. Strictly speaking, gums are always water-soluble.

Example: Gum Acacia, Gum Tragacanth.

Gum Arabic or Acacia gum (Acacia senegal) also called gum Arabic. It is water soluble and when dissolved in boiling water, clarifies and makes a very good adhesive that is used, among other things, to make scented beads and pomanders. The gum is edible, nutritive, and acts as a demulcent to soothe irritated mucous membranes. It is also an ingredient in medicinal compounds for diarrhea, dysentery, coughs and catarrh. The bark of the Acacia plant is very rich in tannin. (Herbs & Things)

The word “gum” is truly an herbal term, as gums are used in herbalism to make sticky solutions in cosmetics, or to adhere dry ingredients together.

Resins are sometimes called gums. However, gums form solutions or “sols” with water, resins do not. Resins are insoluble in water.

The gums also include Chicle which is sometimes called a gum although it is a latex sap that comes from the Sapodilla tree.

Gum resin. Extruded naturally from plants or trees. Consist of both a gum and a resin, sometimes with a small amount of EO. Usually a solid – like a ‘tear’ and then liquefied with alcohol. —Langenheim describes gum resin as a “resin in which carbohydrates from the breakdown of the epithelial cell walls have mixed with the terpenoids … or following damage to the secretory structure such as pine gum resin; or some plants produce both gum and resin such as Commiphora”¹.

Example: Benzoin

Oleo-gum-resin is a term to describe oleo (oily or fatty in nature or look) gum (partly soluble in water) resin (partly or wholly soluble in alcohol). Therefore, an oleo-gum-resin has a nature that is partly soluble in water and alcohol and partly soluble in oil and looks oily. Consists mainly of oil, gum and resin. It is liquid as it exudes and solidifies on contact with air and can be liquefied with alcohol.

Example: Myrrh, Frankincense, and Opopanax.

Oleo-resin. Prepared or natural material. Exude from trees – trunks or barks. Sometimes they are prepared and form as an evaporation residue. “They are relatively fluid terpenoid resin with relatively high proportion of volatile to nonvolatile terpenes compared to other resins.¹” Oleoresin often contains “fixed” oils. They can be described with color: clear, viscous, and light-colored. Solid from the tree and can be liquefied with alcohol.

Example: Copaiba balsam SD to get Copaiba oil

Resins. Resins are Natural or Prepared. Resins exude from trees or plants. All Pines produce resin. And you can even say that all conifers produce resin. Resins are formed by nature and some resins are prepared in the laboratory as oleoresins. Resins are solid to semi-solid, amorphous. If they contain no water, they are translucent. They are usually solid, odorless, not soluble in water. They can be described generally as products that are used as incense, such as Copal from Mexico and Benzoin. These only yield a fragrance upon burning, although they can often be dissolved in alcohol and then can be used in perfumery or as a tincture for healing.

Langenheim defines “plant resins as primarily a lipid-soluble mixture of volatile and nonvolatile terpenoids and/or phenolic secondary compounds that are 1) secreted from specialized structures and 2) of potential significance in ecological interactions.”^1.

Example: Copal, Sandarac.

Resinoid. Obtained from resins. Resins are solvent extracted, yielding an alcohol-soluble substance, that is less dense, stickier and liquid-like, called a resinoid. These are viscous liquids and semi-solid. In a perfectly prepared resinoid, the odiferous material or essential oil is left intact. Olibanum resinoid is typical. The Olibanum or natural oleo-gum-resin has been made soluble for perfume use by the removal of the water-soluble gum. Resinoids are “compounds extracted from a resin, usually volatile compounds used for fragrance.¹”—Langenheim

Example: Resinoid of Frankincense.

Rosin – Prepared from resins. It is the solid amber-colored residue obtained after the distillation of crude turpentine (gum rosin), or of naphtha extract from Pine stumps (wood rosin) used in adhesives, varnishes, inks, etc. and for treating the bows of stringed instruments. “Rosin is the nonvolatile diterpene fraction in pine resin.¹”

Example: a solid form of resin after the distillation of crude turpentine oleoresin, or naphtha extract from Pinus spp. stumps.

alchemical symbol for rosin

Balsams. Balsams are less fluid than oleoresins, they are soft, they are fragrant. They are “relatively soft and initially malleable resin, generally fragrant; sometimes restricted to phenolic resins of this kind.¹”

Example: Peru Balsam or Canada balsam.

CONCLUSION.

Often the terms gum, resin, resinoid, essential oil is used to describe the steps in the processing of natural exudates from plants, such as from Myrrh and Frankincense. There is confusion in the terminology and it is sometimes difficult to really know one from another. In some commercial productions a plasticizer is added in extremely small amounts (1/10th of 1%) to the essential oil to keep it in a liquid form, and because of this the resins like Frankincense, Myrrh, Labdanum, and Galbanum, thus do not yield true essential oils according to aromatherapy terms.⁴ . If you leave one of these essential oil of Frankincense or Myrrh out in the air, it will soon solidify as the alcohol and/or plasticizer will soon evaporate or the oleo-gum-resin will revert to its solid form. There are small artisan distillers that are using hydro-distillation to obtain very high quality essential oils ~ I hope that you will support them.

I will proceed further and discuss in detail some of these items in my collections.

spirit of wine

Burning the 1975 Benzoin on charcoal as incense

Resins, Resinoids, Gums

A COLLECTION OF THE ANCIENT RESINS/RESINOIDS/GUMS (2018)

A variety of aromatic substances are mentioned throughout the Bible and ancient texts. These substances are mostly resins from aromatic plants that have been used throughout history in a variety of ways to increase spiritual awareness, center the psyche, and to aid meditation practice. The essential oils of these plants can be used for benefits to mind, body, and spirit…Looking at and comparing samples from my collection dating from 1970 to present shows that many of these plant exudates are less in quality than they once were. This may be because of over-harvesting, improper harvesting, or is the result of excessive use from the public. ~ Examine!

ACACIA: Gum Acacia or Gum Arabic. Acacia spp. “This gum is slowly soluble in water and provides a gelatinous acid base for non-oily cosmetics. It makes a demulcent and emollient base, very soothing to all skin surfaces.”³“In its natural state gum Arabic comes in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. The color of the gum may vary from colorless through different shades of yellow, amber, orange, red and dark brown. The best grades from A. senegal are in the form of whole, round ‘tears’, orange-brown in color and with a matt surface texture. Gum from A. seyal is more friable than that produced by A. senegal and is rarely found as whole lumps. Use of gum Arabic falls into three main sectors: the food industry, the pharmaceutical industry and industries such as printing, ceramics and textiles (Chikamai and Odera, 2002). Locally, it is eaten as food and has some medicinal uses²”.

AMBER: Amber Oil Fossilized, probably Pinus succinifera, L, Family – Pinaceae. The origin of amber is somewhat uncertain; it is believed to be a fossil resin, produced by the hardening of the resinous exudates of largely extinct trees of the Coniferae family. The excellent author, Jean Langenheim in her fantastic book, Plant Resins, has much to say on this resin as it has been known and through a lengthy geologic time. Sources of Amber include the Dominican Republic in the Newe Worlde and the “Baltic area of the Olde Worlde. It exists all over the world in many countries, although the Baltic amber constitutes the largest and most widespread deposition of amber in the world¹.”^.

Prayer or paternoster beads made from Amber have a long history.

https://jeanne-blog.com/?s=Amber

Arabic or gum arabic. See Gum Acacia.

ASAFOETIDA. I have to say that even though I have had this resin in my arsenal since 1970, I have never used it for anything. Everything I know about it is from smelling and tasting from my original samples and researching. It is commonly called ‘devil’s-dung’ because of the extremely pungent odor. The scent repels dogs and cats but is used as bait for catfish and pike.

Asafoetida is the dried latex or gum oleoresin from the root of a perennial species, Ferula spp., often Ferula asafoetida of the Family Apiaceae (like Galbanum) . It comes from the dried sap extracted from the stem and roots and is used as a spice. This is one of the rare resins extracted from roots. The resin is greyish-white when fresh but dries to a dark amber color. It is native to Afghanistan and Iran but is mostly grown and obtained from India. It is used in cooking for a flavor somewhat like Leeks and therapeutically as a digestive aid to reduce gas, as a condiment and in pickling foods.

Its use has been traced to 700 B.C. It is sold as a resin where pieces are scraped off or a 30% compound with gum arabic (see the picture) to dilute the strong odor as the smell is pungent and strong and will contaminate other items that are nearby. In experimental models, asafoetida causes hypotension and thinning of blood through vasodilatation and increased fibrinolytic activity. As a result, asafoetida enhances the anticoagulation effect of warfarin. See https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/neuroscience/asafoetida

BALSAM OF PERU & BALSAM OF TOLU. Myroxylon balsamum. These large trees can be found from Guatemala to Nicaragua, but the conditions needed for producing Peru Balsam exist only in a small region of El Salvador, in the highlands an hour’s drive west of the capital San Salvador. Peru balsam is harvested in successive phases. The bark is burned, and these specific spots are covered with pieces of cloth that absorb the exudate. The cloth is then pressed, and the balsam is purified by boiling.

Balsam Peru 1972 –EO Myroxylon balsamum or M. balsamum var. pereirae is the same as Balsam of Tolu but a different physiological forma (and from a different area). Native to Central (El Salvador) and South America. See the Botany section from your textbook, 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols. This is a balsamic oleoresin, containing both resin and essential oil. It has a warm, woody, vanilla-type odor and has many therapeutic uses for skin care as well as a wonderful addition as a fixative in perfumery.

I love my Balsam of Peru
It goes well in scrub with bamboo
It is sticky and sweet
And can’t be used neat
But with heat it is no longer like glue—jeannerose2012

Balsam Tolu EO – EO Myroxylon balsamum or M. balsamum var. toluiferum is the same as Balsam of Peru but different physiological forma (and from a different area). It is native to South America (Columbia) and only slightly different than Balsam of Peru in that the branches begin at 45 feet above ground. The scent is the same, balsamic, vanilla-type, warm, and smoky. The balsam is steam-distilled, with a high ester count, used as anticatarrhal, expectorant, indicated for chronic respiratory conditions and used commercially as an expectorant in cough formulas or in soap. See page 110 of Herbs & Things or page 69 The Aromatherapy Book.

Note: In botanical nomenclature, a form (forma, plural formae) is one of the “secondary” taxonomic ranks, below that of variety, and describes the physiologic look of a species that is different from the same species elsewhere. Some plants, although identical taxonomically may have slightly different forms or ‘looks’. If nature is responsible for the different look it is a ‘forma’, if man breeds the difference or for that look it is a ‘cv or variety’.

BENZOIN & STYRAX.

Benzoin. (See also Styrax) BENZOIN is an Asian gum resin, Styrax benzoin. In its natural state it is a ‘tear’ that is solid, has no scent, can be handled and rubbed and fondled like a small irregular rock. It is a called a resin and is extruded naturally from The Styrax Benzoin tree, Styrax tonkinensis, and other species of Styrax. In its raw state it consists of both a gum and a resin, sometimes with a small amount of EO. It is not water-soluble, as you would think a gum is. It can be burned on charcoal and will smoke like any incense. It is a preservative in skin care products or an addition to essential oil blends. Diluted with blends or alcohol. The scent is sweet, balsamic, woody, fruity and floral – it acts as either a base note or a fixative in perfumery. Resin from Styrax is also called gum Benjamin and the most common Asian species is the Benzoin.

This is the very confusing worlds of words as the words. Benzoin, Storax, Styrax are used interchangeably but are actually different resins (Styrax benzoin and other species) is Benzoin, while (Liquidamber of several species) is Storax,or Styrax and are used interchangeably but are actually two different resins from several different trees. Styrax is the genus for Benzoin while Liquidamber is the genus for Storax/Styrax . This is where thousands of years of using common names will totally confuse the resin user and likely make you want to tear your hair out by the roots.

Storax is a sweet-smelling exudate and in fact that is what the root word from the Arabic means. But Storax comes from several species of Liquidambar spp.; Turkish Storax is Liquidamber orientalis while American Storax from the southeastern USA, Mexico and Guatemala, although similar to L. orientalis is called Liquidambar styraciflua. (See also Styrax)

Resin oils compliments of Eden Botanicals

Chicle: is a latex sap that comes from the Sapodilla tree. Chicle or Naseberry (Manilkara zapota), a native tree of Central America and the West Indies. The fruit is also known as the Sapodilla. The fleshy pulp is used to make sapodilla custard and ice cream. Chicle gum is extracted from the sap of the trunk and is used in some natural chewing gums to this day. It was once a major component of chewing gums, often mixed with latex from the jelutong tree (Dyera costulata), a Malaysian rain forest tree in the Apocynaceae. Large Chicle trees were originally tapped by tree-climbing workers called chicleros. Although the rubbery latex is a polyterpene, it does not vulcanize into durable rubber. [Vulcanization is the addition of sulfur to rubber to form cross-linking of the isoprene subunits with disulfide bonds, thus improving the elasticity of the latex and making it impervious to weather.] Chicle can be mixed with incense to make it burn and smolder longer.

CISTUS AND LABDANUM: See Labdanum

COLOPHONY – PINE RESIN: Wild-harvested Colophony, Colophonium spp., from Portugal, an oleo-resin from a type of Pine, has multiple uses. In some sources it is considered a type of Copal and this is also a common name for Rosin. (see Rosin). Prepared from resins. It is the solid amber-colored residue obtained after the distillation of crude turpentine (gum rosin), or of naphtha extract from Pine stumps (wood rosin) used in adhesives, varnishes, inks, etc. and for treating the bows of stringed instruments. “Rosin is the nonvolatile diterpene fraction in pine resin.¹

Copaiba Balsam: Copaifera spp. From the family Fabaceae. A canopy tree of the rainforests, usually found in well-drained sandy loams. It is quite aromatic and very pungent and used in medicine and cosmetics. It is very interesting in that Copaiba balsam resin is tapped from standing trees and used as a source of biodiesel. It is anti-inflammatory and used in skin products.

Copaiba balsam – 2008

Copal: Agathis spp. The civilizations of Central America, the Incas, the Aztecs and the Mayas, with only remnants of the Maya, survive today in Guatemala, existed for three millennia from 1500 BC. These peoples burned large quantities of incense, made from Copal Resin and Copal Wood, as offerings, and used tobacco leaves for their aromatic properties. The practice of burning incense remains today a part of the way of life for the remaining Maya, who have used this device for millenia in support of their prayers for rain and for their safety.

Copal from 2006

Dragon’s Blood: Dracaena draco, a phenolic resin that is very dark ruby red from two different plants of different origin. One species, D. cinnabari, is alluded to by Dioscorides, Pliny the Elder and other ancient writers. The resin was considered magical and medicinal. Some species a source of varnish and used to stain marble. There is a full-grown Dragon’s Blood tree in the garden at the Huntington Library in San Marino, CA and one in the San Francisco Botanical Gardens as well. In my collection of Dragon’s Blood from 1972, I have a tube of Dragon’s Blood resin wrapped in a palm leaf as this is the way it was originally packaged.

Elemi: Canarium luzonicum, CO₂ wild resin and steam-distilled (from Prima Fleur). Elemi is extracted using steam distillation or super critical carbon dioxide extraction from the resin of a tropical tree native to the Philippines. It is a member of the Burseraceae plant family, and is closely related, and thus produces a resin that resembles Frankincense and Myrrh. In Arabic, a translation of Elemi is similar to the saying “as above, so below. Marguerite Maury believed that Elemi with Galbanum would rejuvenate the complexion and eventually the body. It is used in products and perfumery. Try it in your skin-nurturing ritual; protect and nourish the skin with a 2% combination of these two ingredients in your night cream and daytime protection cream.

Biolandes Elemi resin on the cut tree

For more information see the Elemi blog post ~

https://jeanne-blog.com/elemi-resin-herb-eo/

End PART I OF resins … more to come

Start PART ii OF resins …

Beautiful Frankincense 1972 – present
I have a collection of Frankincense resin tears from 1972 to the present, resinoid and essential oil from 1975
and Frankincense CO²from 2008 to the present.

FRANKINCENSE: (Boswellia sacra and syn. Boswellia carteri are two forms of the same species) The two wild trees of Frankincense as well as Myrrh, which to this day are still left in their wild state, organically grown, not cultivated, or farm-grown, are harvested by tribes such as the Bedouins in Somali.

The trees are excised. The globs of gum exude from the excision. The globs (or tears) are collected, brought to market, graded according to size and color. In the case of Frankincense, the smaller, lighter-colored tears are used in ritual and as church incense. The tears are graded in the marketplace, purchased by large companies and sent to their home countries for processing.

“The tears are processed by heat and extraction to produce the purified resin. The resin is then further processed via the application of alcohol in a vacuum extraction chamber to produce the liquid resinoid. The resinoid is then further processed by distillation to produce the essential oil. As each of these steps progress, less and less substance is reduced, and the price goes higher and higher.

In some larger commercial companies a plasticizer is added in extremely small amounts (1/10th of 1%) to the essential oil to keep it in liquid form.^4.” Leave an essential oil of Frankincense or Myrrh out in the air, and it will soon solidify as the alcohol and plasticizer evaporate. Therefore in this case, Frankincense and Myrrh, Labdanum, Galbanum, do not yield true essential oils according to aromatherapy terms.

Artisan distillers are producing the essential oils of these resins by slow careful hydro-distillation. And I hope people are supporting these efforts.

Courtesy of EdenBotanicals.com

Frankincense is a much-favored incense for churches and other places of spiritual ritual. The essential oil calms and awakens higher consciousness. It is also helpful in coping with grief, to soothe the mind and emotions. It is useful as an inhalant for respiratory conditions, in body care products for aging skin and to warm the skin.

Please see the blog post for more information.

https://jeanne-blog.com/frankincense-fabulous-ancient-remedy/

GALBANUM: This deep green aroma represents the element of air. It is grounding, uplifting and balancing. It rejuvenates aging skin and is used as a fixative in perfumery and aromatherapy. (Ferula galbaniflua) gum extract. This is a natural fatty gummy resin and the essential oil is steam-distilled from the resin. It has a strong green odor and is used as a fixative in perfume and incense. See p. 95 The Aromatherapy Book for more background. The essential oil especially when used with Elemi is used in skin products for revitalizing aging skin and in body care products to warm. It has soothing properties, especially on aching hands, feet or joints. The gum has anti-inflammatory qualities that make it a wonderful aid for poor circulation and it can be used in hot compresses for most pain relief. Galbanum seems to work well on aging skin, wrinkles, acne and scar tissue; it is antiseptic and antimicrobial, wounds are more quickly healed.

Galbanum through the years 1975-2010

I have shown my collection of Galbanum oil from 1975 to the present, the color is slowly changing and not necessarily from age.

GAMBOGE: Garcinia spp. A gum resin collected from the bark of trees from tropical Asia and southern Africa and used as pigmented varnish. It is classified as a type of Dammar. Gamboge was at one time used an antibacterial medicine. The species G. hanburyi is the best known and also called gutta Cambodia. Spiral incisions are made in the tree bark, the resin flows, is collected and pressed into cakes. I have had my box of Gamboge since 1980, maybe earlier.

LABDANUM AND CISTUS: Cistus ladanifer is the essential oil distilled from the leaves and twigs of the same plant that produces Labdanum from its resin.

Labdanum clear from Eden Botanicals

MASTIC: Mastic Pistacia lentiscus L. This resin is produced primarily from the male tree (an evergreen dioecious shrub) growing in the southeastern part of the Greek Island of Chios in the Aegean Sea, or more correctly mastic is an oleoresin containing little oil. This small bushy tree occurs throughout much of the Mediterranean region and is also found in North Africa. It has a strong resinous odor, grows about meters high and is only fully grown in 40-50 years. In 2016, 40% of the Mastic trees were destroyed by fire. Because of the fires, please limit your use of Mastic for at least the next 25 years until the trees can be regrown.

The Mastic tree produces the natural oleoresin from the trunk, which is obtained by wounding the trunk and larger branches with a gouge like instrument which makes an incision about 2 cm. long and 3 mm. deep. Mastic occurs in yellow or greenish-yellow rounded or pear-shaped tears about 3 mm. in diameter. The tears are brittle but become plastic when chewed. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin or occasionally directly from the leaves and branches. It was once used primarily as a masticatory and is mixed with sugar and eaten as a dessert or sweetmeat/spoon-sweet with bitter coffee.

Mastic has been in use, grown, harvested and used for over 2500 years. It was chewed as a remedy for digestion, may prevent tooth decay and when it was consumed often would decrease total cholesterol. Mastic is the original Olde Worlde chewing gum while Spruce gum or Chicle is used in like manner in the Newe Worlde.

Mastic is tasteless in a tasty way and a small tear can be chewed for hours without seeming to melt away. Since it does not have a strong taste, it doesn’t get tiring to chew like American chewing gum. I put a small tear in my mouth when writing this part of the article, slowly let it soften and then chewed it a bit and still had it in my mouth three hours later. It was pleasant to chew. I also love Chicle but think I like Mastic more.

My collection of Mastic dating to 1973

Mastic Tree

http://www.codif-tn.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/LAKESIS-FICHE-BOTANIQUE-GB.pdf

MYRRH: Commiphora myrrha (molmol). obtained from “tears” of resin exuding from incisions made in the bark of this small tree of the Burseraceae family that is native to Yemen, Somalia and eastern parts of Ethiopia. It is extracted by distillation or supercritical fluid extraction with natural carbon dioxide. By inhalation it can calm fears about the future and cools the air and emotions, while being antiseptic to the lungs and good for problems of the throat. Read the blog-post already posted about Myrrh for a lengthy discussion of uses.

For a profile of Myrrh please see https://jeanne-blog.com/myrrh-eo-co2/

OAKMOSS: Evernia prunastri (Usneaceae). Oakmoss is solvent extracted, light Brown in color, opaque, with a medium viscous nature, and often used in Perfumery as a Base Note with an aromatic strength of medium (6-7 on a 10- point scale. It is a rich, earthy, woody scent, and adds to the smell of the forest with its dry fungoid earthy-woody odor. In spite of its name, Oakmoss is not a moss but lichen, rather resinous, growing on the bark of deciduous and coniferous trees. It was used in perfumery as early as the 16th century. Baskets filled with it have been found in the ancient royal tombs of Egypt, but whether it was intended for perfume is not known. A mixture of phenolic acids extracted from Oakmoss has been used in drugs for treating external wounds and infections. In modern time Oakmoss has been collected in France, Morocco and Yugoslavia and extracted for perfumery purposes (‘Mousse de Chêne’), but today some of the most important active-active ingredients are made synthetically.

OPOPANAX: A resin, Commiphora erythraea var. glabrescens (C. opobalsamum) family (Burseraceae) Bisabol Myrrh, Balm of Mecca. This is another of the famous resins of the Orient; see also Myrrh and Olibanum (frankincense). Etymology: The term “Opopanax”, meaning “all healing juice”, (is a source of confusion, since this word is also used for the gum latex from several Umbellifer, e.g. from Opopanax chironium (Pastinaca opopanax) (Umbelliferae), indigenous to the Mediterranean area.) All members of this family are resinous. The genus Commiphora are thorny bushes and small trees. They are important elements of the African dry-land vegetation.

other livestock ailments. Commercially, it is a well-established herbal medicine, and used in essential oils and cosmetics.²”

OUD, ALOE WOOD Agarwood, Gharu wood: Aquilaria spp., also Aquilaria agollocha, family Thymelaeaceae is a rare, costly oil. These trees are not so rare, but the oil can only be made from wood that has been infected by a fungus which produces an oleoresin in defense that then saturates the wood. This saturated wood is then processed for the Oud. Some Oud is produced on plantations and cultivated in tea rich Assam in India, but this is considered to be of inferior quality to the wild-produced Oud. Oud is incense, oud is used in medicine to soothe the nervous system, for aching muscles and joints, to treat the birthing mother to ‘open’ the flow of energy in the body.

This is a rare substance and should be used only rarely and only in moderation.

PINE PINYON RESIN 2002. Pinus spp. A native (to the USA) tree that produces a fine resin that is sacred and has been used in ceremony and traditionally as incense to heal the spirit. It golden in color with a fine coniferous scent.

ROSIN: See Colophony

SAL TREE RESIN (Shorea robusta) from Myanmar, India and is a type of Dammar (like Gamboge) that is soluble in turpentine but occurs as pale creamy colored aromatic stalactites, sometimes dug from beneath trees. The wood of the tree is used as hardwood timber that is resinous and durable. The lumber and the tree resin known as sal dammar is used as an astringent in Ayurvedic medicine, or burned as incense in Hindu ceremonies, and used as well to caulk boats and ships.

SANDARAC: Sandarac is the resin exudate from the tree Callitris quadrivalvis Vent. It is a conifer native to northern Africa, Morocco. Gum Sandarac resin from Tetraclinis articulata has a warm, light, fruity, balsamic, frankincense-like fragrance. It is used as pounce, and originally used to prevent ink from spreading on unsized paper or powdered and rubbed on paper to treat the paper to hold ink or sprinkled over wet ink to dry the ink after writing. This is something that I have done for over 30 years after learning about Sandarac from Ward Dunham, Special Forces warrior, calligrapher and Enrico bartender.

alchemical symbol for Sandarac

and Sandarac gum

The health properties are cleansing, strengthening and clarifying. Sandarac is probably not toxic, because resins in tear form are not, however precautions should be taken, and it should be kept from children’s reach. For an extensive study of Sandarac, please read my study about ‘pounce’.

http://www.aromaticplantproject.com/articles_archive/Sandarac_Pounce.html .

STYRAX & STORAX: (See also Benzoin) Storax Liquidambar orientalis from Asia & Styrax is Liquidambar styraciflua Central America and Benzoin is a balsamic resin from Styrax tonkinensis from Siam and Sumatra. This is an example of 3 ancient trees producing a resin but from different terroir and having similar genus names but specific species names. The name’s the same but the plants are not. Always know your plants by their correct Latin binomial and even terroir.

“Styrax – which I prefer to call Liquidambar to keep it from being confused with Benzoin (even though it is still mostly known as Styrax in the industry) – is not very common and actually hard to find. Styrax we have is from L. styraciflua from Honduras and not the Levant Styrax (L. orientalis). This is one possible difference, it is worth noting that the two species do have significantly different chemical compositions. … It is a very viscous gum resin with an aroma that nearly matches airplane glue.” —Will Lapaz.

I take my resin and dissolve it in neutral grape spirits before I use it in perfumery. It is a powerful fixative odor when used in perfumery.

Styrax was introduced as a mounting medium in 1883. Originally Styrax was used in the laboratory to mount microscopic animals on slides. They were fixed with alcohol or acetic acid and mounted in Styrax. Styrax has been used to mount all microscopic creatures onto glass slides and fix them so that they do not deteriorate. “Mount in Styrax. Unlike Euparal, this has a refractive index which is markedly different from that of siliceous diatom frustules and makes them stand out very clearly. At stage (4) single specimens can be selected and mounted individually if required.” — Techniques for the rapid preparation of permanent slides of microscopic algae by P.E. Brandham

Some of Jeanne Rose personal 50-year collection of Storax/Styrax

STYRAX ~ A TOMATO TALE

In the late ‘50s when I was at University, I used to mount my own collections on slides – it was a special project and so this scent will always remind me of my days in a science lab. “The small creatures are fixed in 1:3 acetic alcohol, the coverslip immersed rapidly. Care should be taken not to overcrowd the cells and then they are mounted in Styrax. Owing to its content of high boiling constituents, Styrax acts as a most efficient odor fixative.” The oil is used in all kinds of perfume compounds, particularly those of oriental character.

This is one of my most favorite evocative odors, when I smell the strong spicy, herbaceous and oily, aldehydic odor I am wafted directly back to the science lab at San Jose State University in 1957. It is a relaxing luscious scent when used in modest amounts in a perfume, especially those of the Chypre sort. Here is one of my favorite early potpourri scents and bases.

Styrax ~ courtesy of Eden Botanicals

Early Chypre Potpourri/Sachet ~ An Herbal Preparation

8 oz Orange flowers – WH	2 oz Benzoin – PO	1 oz Storax – PO
4 oz Oakmoss = CS	2 oz Bitter Almonds – CS	1 oz Clove – PO
2 oz Rose buds = WH	2 oz Cardamom – CS	1 oz Sandalwood – CS

Add 1 drop of each odor to each of the like named Plant. Let each age for 1-2 weeks. Mix the flowers together. Cut or mash the Almonds and mix with the flowers. Add the Oakmoss. Mix the powdered Benzoin, Storax, Cardamom and Clove together and add to the Sandalwood. Now mix it all together and let it all age for 2 weeks. Put the Sachet into beautiful bags and give away as gifts.

Potpourri ingredients are generally left in whole form so that the form of the plants is still identifiable (with fixative ingredients in powder form) while Sachet ingredients are all comminuted and/or powdered form.

Cistus ladanifer and Ferula spp.

Labdanum (Storax/Styrax) & Galbanum Base

Dilute each of your Galbanum and Labdanum 50•50 with neutral grape spirits.
Let the above age and meld for a week.
Take 12 drops of Galbanum (50•50) and 12 drops of (50•50) Labdanum and mix together. Age it for 1-week. Smell and experience. Give it the name that it evokes.
After it ages, you can add equal amount of grape spirits to make a 25% pure scent base.

FIXATIVES ~ See also Gourmet Perfumery

https://jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-perfumery/

Fixative is an old term for any natural substance that will hold and ‘fix’ the scent in a perfume and that helps a fragrance last longer on the skin. Alcohol-based scents are the most fleeting, so you want to add something to help “anchor” the scent. This is usually done by lowering the evaporation rate of the alcohol. Benzoin and Frankincense, other resins and Tolu and Peru balsam are some of the more common additions to a blend that will help to ‘fix’ it. . Orris root is also an excellent fixative, but it is a sensitizer (as is Benzoin), so perhaps reserving these for your potpourri mixtures might be a good idea. Fixatives are generally in the base notes and kept at about 3-5%. Fixative can be a powerful part of the scent. Some think that any fragrance fixatives might impart is kept to a minimum. The resins can be mixed with alcohol and added, or they can be part of the original blend. If the resins are mixed in the alcohol, they should be allowed to steep for about a month then any debris filtered out. Certain base notes also have fixative properties due to their slow evaporation rate: Labdanum, Myrrh, Sandalwood, Patchouli, etc. Since these also tend to be strong scents, they are kept to a minimum in a perfume formula, usually around 10-20% of the total base note scent.

However, some of these odors with powerful fixative qualities can be integrated into the scent as a base and form a powerful base; the formula of which can be used over and over again in other perfumes to make a fragrant accord.

Alcohol Perfumes. Perfumes using fine alcohol as a diluent will keep longer, hold a better odor and will not go rancid as do the carrier oil-based perfumes.

The resins can be mixed with alcohol and added to the perfume, or they can be part of the original blend or perfume. If the resins are mixed in the alcohol, they should be allowed to steep for about a month, as they dissolve slowly, then filtered carefully to remove any particles. Certain base notes also have fixative properties due to their slow evaporation rate: Labdanum, Myrrh, Sandalwood, Spikenard, Patchouli, etc. Since these also tend to be strong scents, they are kept to a minimum in a perfume formula, usually around 10-20% of the total scent.

Thank you to Eden Botanicals for the many samples of resins to look at, and work with

USE THESE RESINS/OILS FOR YOUR HEALTH AND WELLBEING. Use them for physical health ~
Use them moderately and occasionally to balance and heal emotional trauma ~
Use them less frequently to ground yourself and to find awareness of your spiritual center ~
Use the whole plant resin first as an incense ~
and the essential oil/resinoid as a second choice ~
~ be a Conscious Consumer, ecologically thoughtful ~

Alchemical Symbol for Healing

Endangered or not: Some of these plants are considered to be threatened and/or endangered due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping. Dutch and Ethiopian researchers studying populations of the Frankincense trees in northern Ethiopia found that as many as 7% of the trees are dying each year and that it could be gone within 50 years.

Use the essential oils in moderation. Use the herb tea or resin when it is more appropriate.

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most resinous oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapists suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Bibliography
**^1.Langenheim, Jean H. PLANT RESINS, Chemistry, Evolution, Ecology, Ethnobotany. Timber Press. 2003**
^2.Francis N. Gachathi, and Siri Eriksen. Gums and resins: The potential for supporting sustainable adaptation in Kenya’s drylands.
^3.Rose, Jeanne. Herbal Body Book
^4.Industry private communication, 1985
Alchemy Works. E-mail (not printable)
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Book Arts e-mail
Chart Corporation, Inc., (was Pennick) 787 E. 27th St., Paterson, NJ 07504, 201/345-5554 or 973/345-2139
Etherington & Roberts. Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology. E-mail. Is gum Sandarac poisonous? RUPS@wmich.edu
Guenther’s The Essential Oils. Volume 2,
http://herbnature.blogspot.com/2008_04_01_archive.html
http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils.htm
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.3763/cdev.2010.0066
https://www.the-dermatologist.com/content/review-colophonium
La Paz, Will. Eden Botanicals. Private correspondence
Menninger, Edwin A. Fantastic Trees
Ravines, Patrick. E-mail. >Ravines@BWC.org Rose, Jeanne. Herbs & Things
Scents of Earth website
The New Shorter Oxford English Dictionary, Ed. Lesley Brown. Clarendon Press, Oxford 1993.
US Department of Labor, Material Safety Data Sheet, 1995.

“The pursuit of money interferes with a fulfilling life! “— Peter Coyote (1966)

Moderation in All Things.

A plethora of Resins

GOURMET PERFUMERY

Mar10

GOURMET PERFUMERY

Synopsis: Perfumes for one with refined tastes who enjoys fine scent, food and drink.
Discussed are formulas with essences that smell like food.

Introduction Gourmet Perfumery

When I first thought about writing about the edible and umami stimulating essential oils and scents and calling it gourmet perfumery, I was confused about the true meaning of the words gourmand and gourmet. Since I do own the 22-volume set of The Oxford English Dictionary, it felt correct to first give a definition of what I would discuss.

According to the Oxford, A Gourmet is someone who is a “connoisseur in the delicacies of the table” and in our scent-world one who is a “connoisseur of scent” while a Gourmand is a “glutton, greedy, fond of eating and eats to excess” and for scent collectors “one who uses to excess the natural scents of the plant world”.

Sometimes one sees the words gourmet and gourmand used interchangeably, though more properly gourmand carries a connotation of gluttony and gourmet is knowledgeable enjoyment.

The Gourmet Scents – Part 1

See Part 1 for the Gourmet Scents Used for the Gourmet Perfumer

https://jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-scents-gourmet-perfumer/

It is with pleasure that I acknowledge Eden Botanicals as asking me to think about writing about these particular scents that have an edible connotation and also sending me their selection. I had already in my library of scents, old and older samples that I could also look at and smell. These are the ones that were discussed and are now being used in the perfumery section:

Bitter Almond ~ extracted for the benzaldehyde that is used extensively in seasonings, cosmetics like Jergen’s Lotion or Lush Cosmetics, bitter Almond extract used in cookies;
Butter ~ for a lovely and oily, fatty scent that goes well with florals;
Cacao ~ Chocolate, who doesn’t love it? And in perfumery it is priceless;
Coffee ~ stimulating drink, a wonderful component of many desserts and a great addition to perfumery for a stimulating scent;
Cognac ~ from the lees of cognac making, a fixative in perfumery with a sweet to sour scent and tenacity in the perfume;
Ginger root ~ whether steam-distilled or CO₂extracted is a spicy addition to any blend;
Tobacco absolute from leaves ~ smoky and warm scent (without the obnoxious smoke) goes well in a warm, darkened environment while you savor pastry and acts as a tenacious back note and a fixative; and
Vanilla ~ the ultimate dessert flavor and umami-provoking scent.

The Gourmet Perfumery – Part 2

Perfumery That Smells Like Food

What is Natural (Botanical) Perfumery? It is the use of scent from plant materials for personal fragrance. It really is as simple as that. It is an aromatic art and a fine craft that uses the pure, essences of plants extracted from plants, the use of botanical extracts, essential oils, absolutes or tinctures (and for some natural animal essences) to scent the body. Natural Botanical Perfumery relies solely on plants as their scent source and the scent sources are whole and not isolates. Natural Perfumery refers to making perfume without using synthetic aroma materials.

Ways to Obtain Natural Botanical Gourmet Perfumery Ingredients.

There are several different types of natural Botanical Perfumery ingredients and these can be obtained by several different methods:

ABSOLUTES are prepared perfume materials obtained by solvent-extraction from plants, usually delicate flowers that would be harmed by distillation. They are alcohol-soluble and often oil-soluble. They are liquid but sometimes solid or semi-solid. Absolutes are obtained by alcohol-extraction of concrètes and other types of extracts. During the preparation of absolutes, most terpenes, waxes, and most odorless matter is eliminated but often collected elsewhere as another product.

Concretes, CO₂, Totals are obtained by solvent-extraction from plant material, or by CO₂extraction_,they are solid or semi-solid and are good for solid perfumes. They often represent the full scent of the plant material. They yield tinctures (alcohol & essential scent) and the essential plant wax. Often, their uses can also be included in herbalism.

See https://jeanne-blog.com/co2-extracts-perfumery-skin-care/

EtOH is ethyl alcohol; it can be made from grain (wheat, rye, millet, rice or corn) sugar cane, or grape. It is called neutral grain or grape spirits and is used as a diluent for complex natural perfumes. For proper dilution, the perfumer should use 95% neutral spirits. Lower percentages often do not dissolve the perfume ingredients. And neutral spirits are defined as un-flavored, unscented alcohol of 95 percent, or 190° proof, obtained chiefly from grain or grape.

What does proof mean? 50% or 100° means the proof required by the British Royal Navy, the benchmark strength, at which a spirit could be spilt on gunpowder and it would still ignite. In perfumery, you will want to use 95% neutral spirits, particularly neutral grape spirits as the scent is fruity and distinctive in a nicely aged perfume.

There has been some discussion about alcohol for use in tinctures and in perfumery. It is good to remember that 95% alcohol is a preservative while 70-80% alcohol extracts the plant properties. In biology, specimens are put up into increasing stronger alcohol until they are in 95% alcohol. Alcohol is hydrophilic. It attracts water. In addition, there is a difference in how 95% neutral grain spirits or 95% neutral grape spirits or 95% copper-distilled neutral grape spirits is used. Grain spirits is made from grain; wheat, rye, barley, etc. and is useful in tincturing. Grape spirits are made from grape and so has a fruit overtone that is useful in perfumery. Copper-distilled neutral grape spirits are the base of eau de vie and brandy, has a sweet, fruit overtone, and is great in perfumery. A family owned company that double distills organically grown plants in stainless steel is www.alcsol.com. They sell neutral grape and neutral grain spirits. Also, proof ° is different from percent %. Proof is another way of discussing the strength of the alcohol. Alcohol is hydrophilic and can only be made up to 96% or 192°. Proof is always twice the alcohol number. It is a great word to look up in the dictionary. Look at all your wine bottles and liquor bottles – you will see both proof and % listed.

In BIOLOGY ~ to preserve specimens they are put up into increasing stronger alcohol from 60% until they are in 95% alcohol. Alcohol is hydrophilic. It attracts water. Thus, as you move the specimen from a lower percentage to a higher percentage, it increasingly removes the fluid from the specimen and the specimen cells stay in a condition that can be studied. If you dropped the specimen into straight alcohol, it would deform it and make it impossible to study. It is somewhat the same with using alcohol to extract scent from a flower – although you often start with 95% and stay with it as the extract that you reuse over and over actually drops in percentage as it extracts the cellular water from the plant.

In PERFUMERY ~ In perfumery, one uses 85% to 95% neutral grain spirits or 95% neutral grape spirits or 95% copper-distilled neutral grape spirits. You want to dilute the perfume item to use it but not substantially change it. Neutral grain and neutral grape spirits are both ethyl alcohol. Perfume items will not dissolve in alcohol that is less than 85%-95% and you should not use wood alcohol or methyl alcohol or rectified alcohol for your fine perfume items. Also, once alcohol is added to a perfume or a single item, it should be aged for a minimum of 3 months – this is what I learned from my distillation mentor who was a fine cognac/brandy maker; that this technique of aging fine spirits would also work for fine perfumery. This way all components of the perfume or single fragrant item have a chance to be totally integrated.

Essential Oils are steam distilled and are EtOH (alcohol) and oil-soluble.

Floral Waxes, Beeswax will need to be heated to be used. Floral waxes are obtained from natural plants, solvent extracted to form the concrète, which is then separated into the absolutes and plant/floral waxes. Beeswax is collected and made by bees.

TINCTURES OR PERFUME TINCTURES. Perfume tinctures are different than medicinal tinctures, as only the scent is desired. Flowers without the calyx (green parts) are put in a jar and a spirit of 80-95% pure ethanol is added. The jar is left to stand for 1-or 3 days as long as the flower is producing scent, shaken occasionally. The spirit is then poured onto another jar filled with flowers and on and on. This is continued until the alcohol has taken on the scent (and usually) and color of the flowers. It will take a season of the flowers to produce the perfume tincture. This is then refrigerated until the alcohol is perfectly clear. Then the clear scented alcohol is removed by decanting or by pouring or using a pipette. The flowers that are left in the jar can be used in the bath or placed in a muslin bag, pressed, and any liquid left can be used in a cream as both a scent and a preservative.

TURBO DISTILLATION EXTRACTION – Turbo distillation is suitable for hard-to-extract or coarse plant material, such as bark, roots, and seeds. In this process, the plants soak in the water mixture to start the breakdown process of the plant (water maceration) and then steam is circulated through this plant and water mixture. Throughout the entire process, the same water is continually recycled (cohobated) through the plant material (cohobation). This method allows faster extraction of the Essential Oil from the hard-to-extract sources. —Natural Perfumery Workbook by Jeanne Rose

GOURMET PERFUMERY

You Will Need To Know A Few Definitions.

Bases ~ Instead of building a perfume from the ‘ground up’, many perfumers make and use a premade base or fragrance bases for their perfumes and colognes. Also called simply a base scent. Each base is essentially a simple or modular scent that is blended from two of your essential oils or aromatics and formulated with a simple concept in mind such as fatty floral (butter + Jasmine) or spice (Juniperus virginiana + Clove). A base is not the same as a base note and you should use only 2 or no more than 3 scents to make it. A base is the basic building block of a perfume. Make it, name it, label it and store in your scent library for further use. If you maintain a collection of bases, then you will always be prepared to make a new scent.

A collection of bases is kept because the combination can be reused, or to pre-age ingredients that are difficult or overpowering and when premade can be more easily used as the foundation of a new scent; you can combine multiple known bases to make a new accord.

Try making a Rondeletia base using only Lavender and Sandalwood. Make several using different types of Lavender and different species of Sandalwood to see the differences.

See page 12 of book III of the Natural Perfumery Workbook for more detailed information.

Accord ~ A perfume accord is a balanced blend or synergy of notes which will lose their individual identity to create something new, a new odor. It can be composed of 2-3 of your Bases. An accord is not to be confused with a Family of Odors nor with a harmonious completed note. Also, keep a collection of premade accords so that your perfume will be ready to use sooner rather than later.

Family or Perfume Families ~ There are 7-8 main groups of perfumery-making called perfume families. Within each of these families are 7 separate accords that you can make. I will only list the perfume families as the entire chart is listed in “Natural Perfumery Workbook”. Just as in the Vocabulary of Odors©, each family of odors corresponds to a perfume family: Floral, Fruity, Citrus, Fern/Green, Woody, Herbal, and Spicy/Oriental. The other family that I like to work with is Leather or Chypre.

As an example, in the large Floral Family that includes the separate odors of floral, powder, honey, oily/musk scents; this family contains perfumes whose main accords are floral such as Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Osmanthus and the accords can be called 1. Floral

floral; 2. Fruity floral; 3. Citrus floral; 4. Green floral with Violet leaf, 5. Floral woods with Atlas Cedar; 6. Herbal floral with Lavender; and 7. Spicy floral combinations.

Notes ~

Notes. This is a word that is borrowed from the language of music to indicate an olfactory impression of a single smell, or to indicate three distinct periods in the evaporation of a perfume – top note, middle or heart note, bottom note. I have gone further and identified the parts of the perfume in musical thought as well with the help of jazz bassist Ron McClure.

Top Note – ▲ These are the ‘Trills or Variations’ of the perfume and make up to 5-20% of the total perfume. They are often the most volatile of the scent, one that is perceived for only about 30 minutes after application. In music variation it is a way of organizing a piece of music by taking a tune (a theme or melody) and then repeating it in several different ways. It is often called Theme and Variations. The same is true in perfumery.

Heart Note – ♥ The ‘Melody’ of the perfume. The melody is the single phrase or motif of the perfume, the tune, voice, or line, and is a succession of musical tones, which can be identified as a single entity and make up 20-30% of the perfume. And in perfumery the same is true, a single family or accord that is basic. What it is, the scent that you want it to be on your skin for the longest time; it is the principle part and determines the character of the perfume. The Heart note is the recognizable tune; I call it, the ‘Melody’ of the perfume.

Base Note – ■ I call the Base note, the ‘Beat’ of the perfume. In music, a beat is the basic time-unit of a piece of music; for example, each tick sounded by a metronome would correspond to a beat. The base note makes up anywhere from 5-20% of a perfume. A base note is a class of odorants that evaporate very slowly and are typically not perceived until the perfume dry(s)-down. Base notes are fixative and ‘hold’ the scent in place. These notes are often not very volatile and are also often incorporated into the Base Accord. It is the beat or ‘drum Beat’ of the Perfume.

More parts of the gourmet perfumery

Bridge Notes or Accessory notes ∩ ~ These scents tie everything together, they are the theme, ‘the Timing’ of the scent or what supports the scent. They take you from one note to another like flower to leaf or leaf to root or “across the water from the city to the country”). They are usually only about 10% or less of the total weight of the perfume complex.

You can also use other Accessory notes. These are intensely-scented aromatics that are used to add freshness, lift, or modernity to a blend, or to highlight a main note. They are typically used in very small amounts so that they don’t overpower the other aromatics in a blend. (Birch tar which is a heavy smoky scent or Kewda, Pandanus odoratissimus, which was described once as smelling like a combination of Horse Radish and Gardenia, are examples.)

Fixative ※ is an old term for any natural substance that will hold and ‘fix’ and that ‘Gives long life’ to a perfume and that helps a fragrance last longer on the skin. Alcohol-based scents are fleeting, so you want to add something to help ‘anchor’ or ‘fix’ the scent. Lowering the evaporation rate of the alcohol with a ‘tenacious’ scent usually does this and gives long life to a scent. Fixatives are ambergris, civet, Labdanum, Africa Stone and more. The fixatives can be part of the alcohol diluent or part of the base Accord or base-note. Fixatives notes are deep and complex. In the past fixative notes were the animal part of the finished perfume but are now often mineralized animal products such as Africa Stone or tinctures of odd deep and sometimes unpleasant odors that when used in small amounts fix the scent. See page 97 in 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols or Natural Botanical Perfumery for the vegetable perfume fixatives.

Gourmet Perfumery

A Perfume is three notes, the top, the heart, and the base, with a bridge or two and a fixative to complete it. The notes may be made with your pre-made bases or accords and to which you will just add something to change it from what it was to what it is now.

BASIC PERFUME — Making a Perfume substance for topical application is to make something that smells good on you, that has no obvious medicinal value, but may have emotional or sexual value, and will usually be composed of the connections between the notes of Top — Heart — Base plus the addition of Bridge notes to connect.

Make it @ 17%-25% or so, that is, up to 25% of the total is natural perfume ingredients and to which you add ethyl alcohol. Cologne is 15% or so natural ingredients with 85% alcohol. Please remember that we always start with 95% neutral spirits (ethyl alcohol). I am personally not a fan of using carrier oils or Jojoba liquid wax or Coconut oil to dilute a perfume. They are prone to oxidizing and thus limit the life of the perfume.

Askinson said,

“It is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume,

but the manner in which certain odors are combined.” … 1865

The Delicious Accord

3 C’s of Craft Perfumery ~ Cardamom, Coffee and Cocoa

Gourmet Perfumery

Cocoa and Coffee will be thick and viscous and needs to be pre-diluted 50•50 with your perfume alcohol (95% neutral grape spirits) to get it liquid enough to measure. So, when you use them to remember that it is pre-diluted, and you can accommodate your formula ahead of time. They are also slow to dissolve into the alcohol. If the math confuses you, pre-dilute everything 50•50 with your spirits ahead of time and then you can add drops and the drops will be the same volume (not necessarily the same weight). If you are making large quantities always measure by weight on a quality digital scale.

Jeanne Rose Tomato >Tales of the Gourmet Perfumery

Make a base (not a base note) of Chocolate and Vanilla, call it CocoVan. See page 12 of Part 3 of The Natural Perfumery Workbook for details.

A base is a building block of a perfume. Base or Bases is not a base note — Instead of building a perfume from “ground up”, use your premade fragrance base or simply called a base, named and stored for future use. Each base is essentially a 2-part modular perfume that is blended from essential oils and extracts and formulated with a simple concept such as “cut grass” or “sour apple” “spiced Coffee”.

Of the Chocolate + Vanilla bases that I had, I chose bottle 4, with 4 parts of Vanilla and 6 parts of Chocolate. This particular bottle I called Coco #4 and used it as part of my Breakfast Accord by adding to it an equal amount of Butter CO₂ and Coffee CO₂. Now I had the foundation of my Base note with this Bases Note that I could age for a week or so while I decided on my Top and Heart note. I added Tobacco to the Breakfast Accord to call it now “1950 Breakfast Bases Note”.

I decided on a Citrus citrus top note and a Floral Jasmine Heart note.

The Top note was a common combination of Bergamot and white Grapefruit with attending scents of Yuzu and Lemon;

the Heart note was Champa, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang Extra, smoky Osmanthus and high-elevation Lavender.

An added bridge of Labdanum on one end and Birch tar on the other end and

The Base Note was made with the base and accord as listed plus Tobacco

a Fixative of ambergris completed my “Breakfast in Paris Perfume”. Oh, my! I am ready to roll now.

Three weeks later after aging these separately the pre-made notes and accords were ready to be diluted with 95% neutral grape spirits. I made it 1-part natural perfume ingredients with 3-parts of the grape spirits or 25% to 75%. And let it age again.

Here is the formula: Breakfast in Paris Perfume

This was my general perfume, but you can use whatever amounts that you wish here in the final combining of notes. Every combination will have a different odor.

References:
The Oxford English Dictionary
EdenBotanicals.com
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Frog, Ltd. 1999
Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. 2015 edition from /books.html

Bibliography for Advanced Perfumery:
Anonis, Danute Pajaujis: Flower Oils and Floral Compounds in Perfumery, Perfumer and Flavorist. 1993.
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Barillé, Elisabeth and Catherine Laroze. The Book of Perfumery. Flammarion Press. 1995
Calkin, Robert R. and J. Stephan Jellinek. Perfumery Practice and Principles, Wiley Interscience, 1994.
Edwards, Michael. Perfume Legends, 1996.
Gaborit, Jean-Yves. Perfumes The Essences and Their Bottles. Rizzoli, New York. 1985.
Guenther, Ernest: The Essential Oils, volumes I-VI, Krieger. 1949.
Mabberley, D. J. The Plant Book
McMahon, Christopher. AROMAtherapy 2037, Fall 97. “Tuberose Treasure”
———. AROMAtherapy 2037, Summer 97. “Extraction of Floral Concretes”
Ohloff, Günther: Scent and Fragrances, Springer-Verlag 1990. Translated by Pickenhagen and Lawrence
Pavia, Fabienne. The World of Perfume. 1995
Piesse, G. W. Septimus. The Art of Perfumery. 1867
Rose, Jeanne: 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols; Frog, Ltd. 1999.
——— . AROMAtherapy 2037. Winter 1997/98
———. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations 1996.
———. The World of Aromatherapy, 1996.
———Herbs & Things, Last Gasp. 2002
Thompson, C. J. S. The Mystery and Lure of Perfume. Lippincott. 1927.
Williams, David G.: The Chemistry of Essential Oils, Micelle Press. 1996.

Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DO NOT INGEST ESSENTIAL OILS OR ABSOLUTES OR THE CO2. Although some essential oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small minute amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

Safety Precautions: Do not apply the essential oil neat, especially to the underarms or delicate parts of the body. Most oils are probably not to be used on babies, children or pregnant women. Many aromatherapist suggest that there are some oils not be used at all. However, as with many plants, essential oil chemistry is subject to change depending on species and terroir.

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that is a matter between you and your health care provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

Moderation in All Things.

Science article ~ Safety assessment of Ylang–Ylang (Cananga spp.) as a food ingredientGeorge A. Burdock, Ioana Carabin. From Food and Chemical Toxicology, vol. 46, issue 2, February 2008, pg. 433-445.

NEROLI. Essential Oil/Hydrosol Profile

By Jeanne Rose ~ June 2019

LIME OIL & Makrut Lime Profile

GENERAL PROPERTIES

3 Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. 4 Employment of a new strategy for identification of lemon (Citrus limon L.) cultivars using RAPD markers. Q Mu, X Sun, G Zhong, X Wang… – African Journal, 2012 – academicjournals.org

MASTIC Essential Oil &/or Herb Resin Profile

APPLICATION/ SKINCARE: GUM MASTIC (Pistacia lentiscus)

Fan Diffuser

Abstract/Scientific Data About the Gum Resin Mastic:

~JR~

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

My only analyses of Mastic using the Advanced Vocabulary of Odor

See Natural Perfumery Workbook to use. 2016.

BENZOIN/STYRAX/STORAX RESIN EO Profile By Jeanne Rose ~ Sept. 2018

Styrax and Benzoin from 1972-2018 – photo by Jeanne Rose

Some of Jeanne Rose personal 50-year collection of Storax/Styrax

Family name of the two main genus called

Benzoin/Styrax/Storax

red Siam gum benzoin

Liquidamber styraciflua –USA

Benzoin resin from Sumatra, alcohol extract courtesy of Eden Botanicals

Symbols from The Aromatherapy Book showing that Benzoin/Styrax can be a skin irritant and to dilute before use.

Burning Benzoin or Styrax Resin

Liquidamber Styrax ~ courtesy of Eden Botanicals

Use this potpourri in closets or drawers to scent your belongings.

My copy of Plinie’s Natural History – 1601

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Alchemical symbol for healing

Essential Oil & Absolute Courtesy of EdenBotanicals

Balsam of Peru/Tolu

•

Alchemical Symbol for Sap

Symbol from the Aromatherapy Book, meaning “this oil could cause a problem”4.

Balsam of Tolu 1972 and 1980, Resinoid and balsam

Galbanum – Using the Resin, Herb and EO

Hard Galbanum resin and the essential oil over 35 years

Root of a Persian Galbanum courtesy of http://www.galbanum.org/

Galbanum – Plinie’s Natural History – my copy 1601

Symbol for Juice or Sap

Alchemical symbol for juice or sap

Galbanum in the desert.

Prayer or paternoster beads made from Amber have a long history.Amber Rosary beads with handmade linen thread – personalized

Amber bracelets, Amber oil, Amber succinite from China

•

Abstract/Scientific Data: A Brief Exposition of the Science of Mechanical Electricity: Or Electricity Proper; Subsidiary to the Course of Chemical Instruction in the University of Pennsylvania … by Robert Hare, J.G. Auner. 1840

Cistus ladanifer – the plant that produces Cistus oil and Labdanum resin

Cistus EO in the Arctander book

And I still have this fragrant Bag of Mental Health creeping around after 47 years.

Abstract/Scientific Data: Anti-Dengue Virus Activity of the Oleoresin Labdanum of Cistus creticus.

Sustainability: These items may not be sustainable in the amounts that are being used.

Endangered or not: Some of these plants are considered to be threatened and/or endangered due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live and by over-tapping.

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Irritants: Some of the gums and resins can be quite irritating or sensitizing. Use the Patch Test before applying.

Elemi EO and resin 2016 and 2018

Elemi resin (Canarium luzonicum)

Oils courtesy of Eden Botanicals

alchemical symbol for rosin

spirit of wine

Burning the 1975 Benzoin on charcoal as incense

Resin oils compliments of Eden Botanicals

Copaiba balsam – 2008

Copal from 2006

Biolandes Elemi resin on the cut tree

Beautiful Frankincense 1972 – present I have a collection of Frankincense resin tears from 1972 to the present, resinoid and essential oil from 1975 and Frankincense CO2 from 2008 to the present.

Courtesy of EdenBotanicals.com

Galbanum through the years 1975-2010

Labdanum clear from Eden Botanicals

My collection of Mastic dating to 1973

Mastic Tree

http://www.codif-tn.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/LAKESIS-FICHE-BOTANIQUE-GB.pdf

alchemical symbol for Sandarac

and Sandarac gum

Some of Jeanne Rose personal 50-year collection of Storax/Styrax

Styrax ~ courtesy of Eden Botanicals

Early Chypre Potpourri/Sachet ~ An Herbal Preparation

FIXATIVES ~ See also Gourmet Perfumery

https://jeanne-blog.com/gourmet-perfumery/

Do not Ingest essential oils: Although some oils are important flavoring oils in the flavor industry and thus ingested in very small amounts in many foods, especially meats and sausages, it is not a good idea to use them yourself either in capsules or honey to take internally.

Science article ~ Safety assessment of Ylang–Ylang (Cananga spp.) as a food ingredient
George A. Burdock, Ioana Carabin. From Food and Chemical Toxicology, vol. 46, issue 2, February 2008, pg. 433-445.

³ Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
⁴ Employment of a new strategy for identification of lemon (Citrus limon L.) cultivars using RAPD markers. Q Mu, X Sun, G Zhong, X Wang… – African Journal, 2012 – academicjournals.org

**APPLICATION/ SKINCARE: GUM MASTIC (Pistacia lentiscus)**

**See Natural Perfumery Workbook to use. 2016.**

BENZOIN/STYRAX/STORAX RESIN EO Profile
By Jeanne Rose ~ Sept. 2018

***Liquidamber styraciflua –*USA**

**Symbols from The Aromatherapy Book showing that Benzoin/Styrax
can be a skin irritant and to dilute before use.**

Symbol from the Aromatherapy Book, meaning “this oil could cause a problem”^4.

Beautiful Frankincense 1972 – present
I have a collection of Frankincense resin tears from 1972 to the present, resinoid and essential oil from 1975
and Frankincense CO²from 2008 to the present.